Quasi-3D Numerical Simulation of Tidal Hydrodynamic Field

Based on the 2D horizontal plane numerical model,a quasi-3D numerical model is establishedfor coastal regions of shallow water.The characteristics of this model are that the velocity profiles can be ob-tained at the same time when the equations of the value of difference between the horizontal current velocityand its depth-averaged velocity in the vertical direction are solved and the results obtained are consistent withthe results of the 2D model.The circulating flow in the rectangular area induced by wind is simulated and ap-plied to the tidal flow field of the radial sandbanks in the South Yellow Sea.The computational results fromthis quasi-3D model are in good agreement with analytical results and observed data.The solution of the finitedifference equations has been found to be stable,and the model is simple,effective and practical.     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

Tracing nearshore bottom currents with sea-bed drifters

The experience acquired during 36 Woodhead drifter releases performed along the Tuscan coast is briefly reported. Without a costly apparatus, residual current patterns may be easily obtained with this method. Care should be taken, however, when sediment dispersal patterns are required, since weak currents which drag drifters slowly, displace only finer sediments.     

Effects of nonlinear inertial forces on nearshore currents

A perturbation method is developed to investigate the effects of nonlinear inertial forces on breaking-wave-induced nearshore currents. Obliquely incident waves are considered and the bottom topography varies periodically in the shoreline direction. For simplicity, lateral turbulent mixing is ignored. Numerical examples are given for a specified bottom topography with various angles of incidence and surf zone width. The nearshore currents of interest mainly belong to the meandering type. When the nonlinear terms are included, there appears an advective shift as well as an amplitude reduction in the current pattern.     

近岸岛屿周围波生流的数值模拟

基于非结构网格有限体积法的环流模型,建立了相位平均的波流作用模型。模型中考虑了波浪破碎效应的三维辐射应力和波流作用下的扩散系数。通过模拟试验水池中人工岛和天然岛屿周围的波生流,对岛周围波生流的运动特征进行了分析。当波浪垂直入射到均匀斜坡上的人工岛时,岛周围产生回流和对称的环流,流速沿水深分布稍有差异。在天然岛屿中,入射波浪在近岸形成沿岸流。靠近岸线岛屿周围的沿岸流比离岸较远岛屿周围的流速大。这和辐射应力在浅水区域作用有关,岸线区域波生流特征明显。近岸岛屿周围在波浪辐射应力下产生不同的波浪增水,该波浪增水形成压力梯度进而促进岛屿周围的流态变化。     

Comparing a quasi-3D to a full 3D nearshore circulation model: SHORECIRC and ROMS

Predictions of nearshore and surf zone processes are important for determining coastal circulation, impacts of storms, navigation, and recreational safety. Numerical modeling of these systems facilitates advancements in our understanding of coastal changes and can provide predictive capabilities for resource managers. There exists many nearshore coastal circulation models, however they are mostly limited or typically only applied as depth integrated models. SHORECIRC is an established surf zone circulation model that is quasi-3D to allow the effect of the variability in the vertical structure of the currents while maintaining the computational advantage of a 2DH model. Here we compare SHORECIRC to ROMS, a fully 3D ocean circulation model which now includes a three dimensional formulation for the wave-driven flows. We compare the models with three different test applications for: (i) spectral waves approaching a plane beach with an oblique angle of incidence; (ii) monochromatic waves driving longshore currents in a laboratory basin; and (iii) monochromatic waves on a barred beach with rip channels in a laboratory basin. Results identify that the models are very similar for the depth integrated flows and qualitatively consistent for the vertically varying components. The differences are primarily the result of the vertically varying radiation stress utilized by ROMS and the utilization of long wave theory for the radiation stress formulation in vertical varying momentum balance by SHORECIRC. The quasi-3D model is faster, however the applicability of the fully 3D model allows it to extend over a broader range of processes, temporal, and spatial scales.     

Boussinesq modelling of transient rip currents

The flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model. The random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated. Variable wave-averaged currents were generated because of the spatially variable wave field, and sometimes formed offshore directed rip currents that appear in variable longshore locations. The rip currents are associated with a vortex pair which is generated within the surfzone and subsequently propagates offshore. Analysis of the vorticity balance show that the main vorticity input occurs within the inner surfzone. Three different beach slopes and four different wave spectra are simulated. The frequency, duration, and intensity of the transient rips depend on both the beach slope and the incident wave spectra. The results have important engineering implications for the transport of material in the nearshore zone, in particular on longshore uniform beaches.     

近岸波浪引起的水流及长波研究进展

从现场观测、理论分析和数值计算、试验室研究三个方面回顾了近岸波浪引起水流以及长波的研究进展，并对今后着重研究的几个方向提出看法。     

Modeling of waves and currents in the nearshore parametric vs. probabilistic approach

This paper introduces a hydrodynamic model that can predict the cross-shore transformation of wave height, on- and offshore orbital motion, and time-averaged cross-shore and longshore currents in a parametric and probabilistic mode. In the parametric mode, the computations are based on the root-mean-square wave height, the peak period, and the energy-weighted mean angle of incidence, while in the probabilistic mode a discrete number of classes with their own wave height, period, and angle of incidence is prescribed. Predictions of the two modes differ marginally and result in about the same error statistics when compared to data from laboratory and field experiments. Consistent with other probabilistic wave models, measured wave height distributions inside the surf zone were not reproduced accurately by the present probabilistic model. Although this could be remedied by introducing some variability around the breaker parameter, predictions of the other hydrodynamic parameters did not improve as a result. From a hydrodynamic point of view, it appears superfluous to use the rather time-consuming probabilistic mode for morphodynamic modeling; the parametric mode suffices.     

连云港近岸海域潮流垂直结构及其季节变化

根据连云港近岸海域夏冬季多站同步连续实测潮流资料,分析了不同季节、不同潮周期潮流垂向分布特征,并对实测潮流资料进行了准调和分析,进一步计算潮流椭圆要素,据此分析了潮流性质、潮流椭圆旋转率、最大流速流向及到达时间的垂向分布.结果表明,连云港近岸海域实测各层潮流在垂向上和季节上具有一定的差异,通常表层潮流最强,底层潮流较弱,夏季表底层大小差异比冬季明显.潮流性质属正规半日潮流,表征潮流性质的日潮流与半日潮流比值随水深的增加而变化,夏季表底层变化比冬季大.最大流速大小随深度增加而递减,夏季比冬季变化显著.最大流速方向随深度变化呈逆时针方向旋转.底层最大流速到达时间比上层早,日潮流比半日潮流变化大.     

基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

Waves, currents, sediment flux and morphological response in a barred nearshore system

A shore-normal array of seven, bi-directional electromagnetic flowmeters and nine surface piercing, continuous resistance wave staffs were deployed across a multiple barred nearshore at Wendake Beach, Georgian Bay, Canada, and monitored for a complete storm cycle. Time-integrated estimates of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux together with bed elevation changes were determined using depth-of-activity rods.

The three bars, ranging in height from 0.10 to 0.40 m accreted during the storm (0.03 m), and the troughs were scoured (0.05 m). Sediment reactivation depths reached 0.14 m and 12% of the nearshore control volume was mobilized. However, the INVF value for the storm was less than 1% of the control volume revealing a near balance in sediment volume in the bar system. Landward migration of the inner, crescentic and second, sinuous bars occurred in association with an alongshore migration of the bar form itself; the outermost, straight, shore-parallel bar remained fixed in location.

The surf zone was highly dissipative throughout the storm (ε = 3.8 × 10²–192 × 10²) and the wave spectrum was dominated by energy at the incident frequency. Spectral peaks at frequencies of the first harmonic and at one quarter that of the incident wave were associated with secondary wave generation just prior to breaking and a standing edge wave, respectively. The former spectral peak was within the 95% confidence band for the spectrum while the latter contributed not more than 10% to the total energy in the surface elevation spectrum even near the shoreline.

During the storm wave height exceeded 2 m (H_s) and periods reached 5 s (T_{p k}): orbital velocities exceeded 0.5 m s⁻¹ (u_{rm s}) and were above the threshold of motion for the medium-to-fine sands throughout the storm. Shore-parallel flows in excess of 0.4 m s⁻¹ were recorded with maxima in the troughs and minima just landward of the bar crest.

The rate and direction of sediment flux is best explained by the interaction of antecedent bed slopes with spatial gradients in the mean and asymmetry of the shore-normal velocity field. These hydrodynamic parameters represent “steady” flows superimposed on the dominantly oscillatory motion and assumed a characteristic spatial pattern from the storm peak through the decay period. Increases spatially in the magnitudes of both the mean flows and flow asymmetries cause an increasing net transport potential (erosion); decreases in these values spatially cause a decreasing net transport potential and thus deposition. These transport potentials are increased or decreased through the gravity potential induced by the local bed slope. Shore-parallel flow was important in explaining sediment flux and morphological change where orbital velocities, mean flows and flow asymmetries were at a minimum.     

波浪作用下近岸区污染物输移扩散的数学模型及其实验验证

在近岸缓坡浅水海岸,波浪破碎产生沿岸流是近岸海域流场的重要组成部分,它对污染物输移扩散规律的影响重大,在高阶近似抛物化缓坡方程求解大面积波浪场基础上,建立了波浪作用下污染物输移扩散数学模型.计算结果与不同坡度均匀斜坡地形上具有不同波高、周期的规则波及不规则波浪作用下污染物输移扩散实验结果进行了比较,分析了各种因素对波浪作用下沿岸流分布规律影响,所得结论认为地形坡度及入射波高对污染物输移扩散的影响较大,波浪作用将使缓坡海滩上污染物的输移扩散平行岸线方向.     

3D scour below pipelines under waves and combined waves and currents

This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation on three-dimensional local scour below a rigid pipeline subjected to wave only and combined wave and current conditions. The tests were conducted in a conventional wave flume. The major emphasis of the investigation was on the scour propagation speed (free span expansion rate) along the pipeline after local scour was initiated at a controlled location. The effects of flow ratio (steady current velocity vs. combined waves/current velocity), flow incidence angle and pipeline initial embedment depth on free span expansion rate were investigated. It was observed that the scour along the pipeline propagated at a constant rate under wave only conditions. The scour propagation rate decreased with increasing embedment depth, however, increased with the increasing Keuglegan–Carpenter (KC) number. Under combined wave and current conditions, the effect of velocity ratio on scour propagation velocity along the pipeline was quantified. Empirical relationships between the scour propagation rate (V_h) and key parameters such as the KC number and embedment depth (e/D) were established based on the testing results.     

3D gravity modelling for Anyongbok Seamount in the East Sea

A seamount chain with an approximately WNW trend is observed in the northeastern Ulleung Basin. It has been argued that these seamounts, including two islands called Ulleung and Dok islands, were formed by a hotspot process or by ridge related volcanism. Many geological and geophysical studies have been done for all the seamounts and islands in the chain except Anyongbok Seamount, which is close to the proposed spreading ridge. We first report morphological characteristics, sediment distribution patterns, and the crustal thickness of Anyongbok Seamount using multibeam bathymetry data, seismic reflection profiles, and 3D gravity modeling. The morphology of Anyongbok Seamount shows a cone shaped feature and is characterized by the development of many flank cones and flank rift zones. The estimated surface volume is about 60 km³, and implies that the seamount is smaller than the other seamounts in the chain. No sediments have been observed on the seamount except the lower slope, which is covered by more than 1,000 m of strata. The crustal structure obtained from a 3D gravity modeling (GFR = 3.11, SD 3.82 = mGal) suggests that the seamount was formed around the boundary of the Ulleung Plateau and the Ulleung Basin, and the estimated crustal thickness is about 20 km, which is a little thicker than other nearby seamounts distributed along the northeastern boundary of the Ulleung Basin. This significant crustal thickness also implies that Anyongbok Seamount might not be related to ridge volcanism.     

Numerical modelling of wave-induced currents in the presence of coastal structures

The hydrodynamic aspects of the general methodology of calculation of nearshore processes by means of numerical models are described. The paper focuses on the method implemented for calculating combined wave refraction-diffraction and reflection due to coastal structures and the associated radiation stresses.Results of numerical modelling are compared with experimental data obtained by Gourlay in the case of a shore-connected breakwater with periodic waves.A good agreement is found between both methods of investigation as concerns the spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level (wave-induced set-up). A good similarity of the wave-induced eddies in the lee of the structure is observed. A less satisfactory agreement is obtained between the velocity distributions in several profiles normal to the shore, although the overall order of magnitude is the same.A critical review of several wave-breaking criteria and sensitivity tests of the numerical model lead to advocate the use of the CERC criterion, particularly with steep beach slopes.     

Denitrification in the Arabian Sea: A 3D ecosystem modelling study

A three-dimensional hydrodynamic-ecosystem model was used to examine the factors determining the spatio-temporal distribution of denitrification in the Arabian Sea. The ecosystem model includes carbon and nitrogen as currencies, cycling of organic matter via detritus and dissolved organic matter, and both remineralization and denitrification as sinks for material exported below the euphotic zone. Model results captured the marked seasonality in plankton dynamics of the region, with characteristic blooms of chlorophyll in the coastal upwelling regions and central Arabian Sea during the southwest monsoon, and also in the northern Arabian Sea during the northeast monsoon as the mixed layer shoals. Predicted denitrification was 26.2 Tg N yr⁻¹,the greatest seasonal contribution being during the northeast monsoon when primary production is co-located with the zone of anoxia. Detritus was the primary organic substrate consumed in denitrification (97%), with a small (3%) contribution by dissolved organic matter. Denitrification in the oxygen minimum zone was predicted to be fuelled almost entirely by organic matter supplied by particles sinking vertically from the euphotic zone above (0.73 mmol N m⁻² d⁻¹) rather than from lateral transport of organic matter from elsewhere in the Arabian Sea (less than 0.01 mmol N m⁻² d⁻¹). Analysis of the carbon budget in the zone of denitrification (north of 10°N and east of 55°E) indicates that the modelled vertical export flux of detritus, which is similar in magnitude to estimates from field data based on the ²³⁴Th method, is sufficient to account for measured bacterial production below the euphotic zone in the Arabian Sea.     

On numerical modelling of currents over the north-west shelf of the Black Sea

Water circulation in the north-west part of the Black Sea during the summer period is calculated by means of a complete non-linear thermohydrodynamic model. We have also studied the contribution of wind forcing, the thermohaline regime, the coastline configuration, and the bottom topography to the generation and transformation of a flow field. It has been shown that the thermohaline regime and wind forcing account for 30 and 70% of the total circulation, respectively. Variation in the nature of circulation at weak winds is due to thermohaline factors. Vertical motion plays a crucial role in theT, S- andH ₂ S-field formation.Translated by V. Puchkin.