Re-evaluation and improvement of three commonly used bulk longshore sediment transport formulas

Longshore sediment transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. Bulk LST formulas are routinely used in coastal management/engineering studies to assess LST rates and gradients. Over 50 years of research has resulted in several bulk LST formulas that have been tested with varying levels of rigour. In this study, the predictive skill of three of the most commonly used bulk LST formulas (CERC, Kamphuis and Bayram) is rigorously evaluated using the most extensive LST data set presently available. The calibration coefficients in the three formulas are improved using a least-squares optimization algorithm, resulting in a significant improvement in the predictive skill of all three formulas. The generality of the improved formulas is verified via the statistical methods of bootstrapping and cross-validation. While the performance of all three improved formulas is very similar, the improved Kamphuis formula performs best, followed by the improved Bayram formula.     

Longshore sediment transport estimation using a fuzzy inference system

Accurate prediction of longshore sediment transport in the nearshore zone is essential for control of shoreline erosion and beach evolution. In this paper, a hybrid Adaptive-Network-Based Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS), Fuzzy Inference System (FIS), CERC, Walton–Bruno (WB) and Van Rijn (VR) formulae are used to predict and model longshore sediment transport in the surf zone. The architecture of ANFIS consisted of three inputs (breaking wave height), (breaking angle), (wave period) and one output (longshore sediment transport rate). For statistical comparison of predicted and measured sediment transport, bias, root mean square error and scatter index are used. The longshore sediment transport rate (LSTR) and wave characteristics at a 4 km-long beach on the central west coast of India are used as case studies. The CERC, WB and VR methods are also applied to the same data. Results indicate that the errors of the ANFIS model in predicting wave parameters are less than those of the empirical formulas. The scatter index of the CERC, WB and VR methods in predicting LSTR is 51.9%, 27.9% and 22.5%, respectively, while the scatter index of the ANFIS model in the prediction of LSTR is 17.32%. A comparison of results reveals that the ANFIS model provides higher accuracy and reliability for LSTR estimation than the other techniques.     

A new formula for the total longshore sediment transport rate

A new predictive formula for the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate was developed from principles of sediment transport physics assuming that breaking waves mobilize the sediment, which is subsequently moved by a mean current. Six high-quality data sets on hydrodynamics and sediment transport collected during both field and laboratory conditions were employed to evaluate the predictive capability of the new formula. The main parameter of the formula (a transport coefficient), which represents the efficiency of the waves in keeping sand grains in suspension, was expressed through a Dean number based on dimensional analysis. The new formula yields predictions that lie within a factor of 0.5 to 2 of the measured values for 62% of the data points, which is higher than other commonly employed formulas for the LST rate such as the CERC equation or the formulas developed by Inman–Bagnold and Kamphuis, respectively. The new formula is well suited for practical applications in coastal areas, as well as for numerical modeling of sediment transport and shoreline change in the nearshore.     

Calculation of longshore sediment transport

Calculation approaches to longshore transport of sandy sediments are discussed. The estimation of the total sediment transport rate is shown to be possibly based on the so-called CERC formula, where the proportionality factor K should be calculated from relationships of Bayram et al. [8] or Leont’yev [4]. In both cases, the results are very close to each other if the author’s determination of the wave breaking depth is used. Under the condition of contrasting variations in the sediment grain size over the coastal profile or in the case of fragmentary sand distribution on the surface of the bed, the local approach implying process-based modeling is more effective. A model is suggested to compute the local longshore sediment transport rates.     

A coupled modeling scheme for longshore sediment transport of wave-dominated coasts—A case study from the southern Baltic Sea

A modeling scheme based on dynamic coupling of a high-resolution 1D cross-shore model to a 2DH area model is developed to calculate the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate in wave-dominated coasts. The purpose of this coupling strategy aims at resolving the LST with a high-resolution (both temporally and spatially) inside the surf-zone and with a coarser spatial resolution seaward of the surf-zone. The 2DH area model operates on a fixed pre-designed regional grid (parent grid) and the 1D cross-shore model is dynamically coupled to the boundary of the parent grid with a time-varying domain, starting from the first wave breaking point and ending at the maximum wave set-up point. The time-varying domain is generated in the 1D model by resolving the landward wave propagation from the offshore conditions provided by the 2DH area model at every time step. With a high-resolution cell size the 1D model resolves the wave propagation processes and resulting LST along the profile. The coupled model is applied to study the LST in the Pomeranian Bight at the southern Baltic Sea. Simulation results are compared with three other different hierarchical modeling methods (from empirical formulas such as CERC and Kamphuis to a 2DH area simulation). The comparative study indicates that the dynamically coupled model can be a reliable tool in practical applications, especially for the areas where hydrodynamics is controlled by complex bathymetry (e.g., multiple longshore bars) or morphologically induced circulation patterns.     

The Relative Trough Froude Number for initiation of wave breaking: Theory,experiments and numerical model confirmation

It is important to accurately locate the wave breaking region for the calculation of nearshore hydrodynamics. Energy from breaking waves drives hydrodynamic phenomena such as wave set-up, set-down, wave run-up, longshore currents, rip currents, and nearshore circulation. Numerous studies have been undertaken to describe when and where wave breakings occurs. Recent development of computer resources permits the use of phase-resolving numerical models for the study of wave propagation, transformation, and nearshore hydrodynamics. This requires new types of wave breaking criteria for the numerical model. The Relative Trough Froude Number (RTFN) is a new wave breaking criterion. This model is based on the moving hydraulic jump concept, therefore it satisfies properly posed boundary-value conditions. It has been experimentally proved that a critical RTFN at the initiation of wave breaking is consistent with and without the presence of an opposing current, but previous efforts did not investigate the theory for the critical value. This paper provides a theoretical analysis and a numerical analysis to demonstrate why the RTFN theory works as a wave breaking initiation (trigger) index. The theoretical analysis provides a universal constant for the initiation of wave breaking for all water depths assuming the Miche formula properly describes the wave breaking condition. A subroutine for wave breaking in a numerical model, FUNWAVE was modified to include the RTFN trigger. The numerical model was calibrated with data from wave tank experiments, and it was found that the critical condition is very close to the theoretical number, CTFN = 1.45. A second paper (in preparation) provides details of the theory and experiments for a second criterion for termination of wave breaking. The time scale for the establishment of the breaking region i.e., between the initiation position and termination position, depends upon the additional momentum present under turbulent condition within the breaking wave. This subject is not considered herein.     

Scour depth under pipelines placed on weakly cohesive soils

We here study the scouring processes that evolve around a submarine pipeline placed on a weakly cohesive seabed. We first analyze some laboratory tests carried out by Vijaya Kumar et al. [21], Xu et al. [25] and Zhou et al. [28] that focused on the scouring around a horizontal cylinder lying on a cohesive bed, subject to waves and currents. The specific purpose is that of finding a new formula for the prediction of the equilibrium scour depth under submarine pipelines. After a theoretical analysis of the main parameters, the sought formula has been found to be a function of: (i) the hydrodynamic forces acting on the cylinder (through the Keulegan–Carpenter parameter KC), (ii) the clay content of the soil C_c, and (iii) the burial depth e₀/D. In the presence of small amounts of clay (C_c< 5 %), the scour depth depends directly on KC (as confirmed by many literature works for pipelines lying on sandy soils, e.g. [18]) and inversely on C_c (as already seen for bridge abutments on cohesive soils, e.g. [1]), the best-fit law being characterized by a coefficient of determination R² = 0.62. If some burial depth is accounted for, this being a novelty of the present work, a more general formulation can be used, valid in the presence of weakly-cohesive soils and with burial depths of the pipe smaller than 0.5 (R² = 0.79). For large clay-content ranges (2% < C_c < 75 %), the scour depth depends directly on both KC and C_c, this giving R² = 0.79 (no burial depth) and 0.91 (some burial depth). However, this finding is at odds with the main literature, because, for large amounts of clay, it is fundamental to consider the liquidity index LI, which accounts for some important clay properties, like the plasticity. We argue that the absence of LI is balanced by the direct dependence of the scour depth on C_c. Notwithstanding the small number of available data, a formula for the prediction of the scour depth under pipelines lying on cohesive soils is fundamental for several engineering applications. The present contribution represents the first attempt to build such a formula, when the pipeline is subject to the wave-current forcing and the seabed is characterized by a relatively small clay content.     

基于调和分析法与ANFIS系统的综合潮汐预报模型

港口沿岸地区以及河流入海口等地区的精确潮汐预报对于各种海洋工程作业有着非常重要的意义。潮汐水位的变化受到众多复杂因素的影响,而且这些复杂的因素往往有着较强的实变性和非线性。为了进一步提高沿岸港口码头等水域的潮汐水位的预测精度,本文提出了一种基于调和分析模型与自适应神经模糊推理系统相结合的模块化潮汐水位预测模型;并采用相关分析确定整个预测模型的输入维数;模块化将潮汐分解为两部分：由天体引潮力形成的天文潮部分和由各种天气以及环境因素引起非天文潮部分。其中调和分析法用于天文潮部分的预测,ANFIS用于预测具有较强非线性的非文潮部分。模块化综合了两种方法的优势,即调和分析法能够实现长期、稳定的天文潮预报,ANFIS能够以较高的精度实现潮汐非线性拟合与预测。模型使用ANFIS模型和调和分析模型分别对潮汐的非天文潮和天文潮部分进行仿真预测,然后将两部分的预测结果综合形成最终的潮汐预测值。此外,本文选用三种不同的模糊规则生成方法（grid partition （GP）,fuzzy c-means （FCM） and sub-clustering （SC））生成完整的ANFIS系统,并使用实测数据进行验证用以选取最优的ANFIS预测模型。最后将最优的ANFIS模型与调和分析模型相结合进行潮汐水位的最终预报。仿真实验选用Fort Pulaski潮汐观测站的实测潮汐值数据进行预报的仿真实验,仿真结果验证了该模型的可行性与有效性并取得了良好的效果,具有较高的预报精度。     

Nutrient gradients in the western North Atlantic Ocean: Relationship to microbial community structure and comparison to patterns in the Pacific Ocean

Studies of nitrogen and phosphorus dynamics in the oligotrophic surface waters of the western North Atlantic Ocean have been constrained because ambient concentrations are typically at or below the detection limits of standard colorometric methods, except during periods of deep vertical mixing. Here we report the application of high-sensitivity analytical methods—determinations of nitrate plus nitrite (N+N) by chemiluminescence and soluble reactive phosphorus (SRP) by the magnesium induced co-precipitation (MAGIC) protocol—to surface waters along a transect from the Sargasso Sea at 26°N through the Gulf Stream at 37°N, including sampling at the JGOFS Bermuda Atlantic Time-series Study (BATS) station. The results were compared with data from the BATS program, and the HOT station in the Pacific Ocean, permitting cross-ecosystem comparisons. Microbial populations were analyzed along the transect, and an attempt was made to interpret their distributions in the context of the measured nutrient concentrations.Surface concentrations of N+N and SRP during the March 1998 transect separated into 3 distinct regions, with the boundaries corresponding roughly to the locations of the BATS station (∼31°N) and the Gulf Stream (∼37°N). Although N+N and SRP co-varied, the [N+N] : [SRP] molar ratios increased systematically from ∼1 to 10 in the southern segment, remained relatively constant at ∼40–50 between 31°N and 37°N, then decreased again systematically to ratios <10 north of the Gulf Stream. Dissolved organic N (DON) and P (DOP) dominated (⩾90%) the total dissolved N (TDN) and P (TDP) pools except in the northern portion of the transect. The [DON] : [DOP] molar ratios were relatively invariant (∼30–60) across the entire transect.Heterotrophic prokaryotes (operationally defined as “bacteria”), Prochlorococcus, Synechococcus, ultra- and nanophytoplankton, cryptophytes, and coccolithophores were enumerated by flow cytometry. The abundance of bacteria was well correlated with the concentration of SRP, and that of the ultra- and nanophytoplankton was well correlated with the concentration of N+N. The only group whose concentration was correlated with temperature was Prochlorococcus, and its abundance was unrelated to the concentrations of nutrients measured at the surface.We combined our transect results with time-series measurements from the BATS site and data from select depth profiles, and contrasted these North Atlantic data sets with time-series of N and P nutrient measurements from a station in the North Pacific subtropical gyre near Hawaii [Hawaii Ocean Time-series (HOT) site]. Two prominent differences are readily observed from this comparison. The [N+N] : [SRP] molar ratios are much less than 16 : 1 during stratified periods in surface waters at the BATS site, as is the case at the HOT site year round. However, following deep winter mixing, this ratio is much higher than 16 : 1 at BATS. Also, SRP concentrations in the upper 100 m at BATS fall in the range 1–10 nM during stratified periods, which is at least one order of magnitude lower than at the HOT site. That two ecosystems with comparable rates of primary and export production would differ so dramatically in their nutrient dynamics is intriguing, and highlights the need for detailed cross ecosystem comparisons.     

Estimation of pile group scour using adaptive neuro-fuzzy approach

An accurate estimation of scour depth around piles is important for coastal and ocean engineers involved in the design of marine structures. Owing to the complexity of the problem, most conventional approaches are often unable to provide sufficiently accurate results. In this paper, an alternative attempt is made herein to develop adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system (ANFIS) models for predicting scour depth as well as scour width for a group of piles supporting a pier. The ANFIS model provides the system identification and interpretability of the fuzzy models and the learning capability of neural networks in a single system. Two combinations of input data were used in the analyses to predict scour depth: the first input combination involves dimensional parameters such as wave height, wave period, and water depth, while the second combination contains nondimensional numbers including the Reynolds number, the Keulegan–Carpenter number, the Shields parameter and the sediment number. The test results show that ANFIS performs better than the existing empirical formulae. The ANFIS predicts scour depth better when it is trained with the original (dimensional) rather than the nondimensional data. The depth of scour was predicted more accurately than its width. A sensitivity analysis showed that scour depth is governed mainly by the Keulegan–Carpenter number, and wave height has a greater influence on scour depth than the other independent parameters.     

Basin-scale variability of phytoplankton biomass,production and growth in the Atlantic Ocean

The latitudinal distributions of phytoplankton biomass, composition and production in the Atlantic Ocean were determined along a 10,000-km transect from 50°N to 50°S in October 1995, May 1996 and October 1996. Highest levels of euphotic layer-integrated chlorophyll a (Chl a) concentration (75–125 mg Chl m⁻²) were found in North Atlantic temperate waters and in the upwelling region off NW Africa, whereas typical Chl a concentrations in oligotrophic waters ranged from 20 to 40 mg Chl m⁻². The estimated concentration of surface phytoplankton carbon (C) biomass was 5–15 mg C m⁻² in the oligotrophic regions and increased over 40 mg C m⁻² in richer areas. The deep chlorophyll maximum did not seem to constitute a biomass or productivity maximum, but resulted mainly from an increase in the Chl a to C ratio and represented a relatively small contribution to total integrated productivity. Primary production rates varied from 50 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹ at the central gyres to 500–1000 mg C m⁻² d⁻¹ in upwelling and higher latitude regions, where faster growth rates (μ) of phytoplankton (>0.5 d⁻¹) were also measured. In oligotrophic waters, microalgal growth was consistently slow [surface μ averaged 0.21±0.02 d⁻¹ (mean±SE)], representing <20% of maximum expected growth. These results argue against the view that the subtropical gyres are characterized by high phytoplankton turnover rates. The latitudinal variations in μ were inversely correlated to the changes in the depth of the nitracline and positively correlated to those of the integrated nitrate concentration, supporting the case for the role of nutrients in controlling the large-scale distribution of phytoplankton growth rates. We observed a large degree of temporal variability in the phytoplankton dynamics in the oligotrophic regions: productivity and growth rates varied in excess of 8-fold, whereas microalgal biomass remained relatively constant. The observed spatial and temporal variability in the biomass specific rate of photosynthesis is at least three times larger than currently assumed in most satellite-based models of global productivity.     

Microbial degradation rates of small peptides and amino acids in the oxygen minimum zone of Chilean coastal waters

We found similar microbial degradation rates of labile dissolved organic matter in oxic and suboxic waters off northern Chile. Rates of peptide hydrolysis and amino acid uptake in unconcentrated water samples were not low in the water column where oxygen concentration was depleted. Hydrolysis rates ranged from 65 to 160 nmol peptide L⁻¹ h⁻¹ in the top 20 m, 8–28 nmol peptide L⁻¹ h⁻¹ between 100 and 300 m (O₂-depleted zone), and 14–19 nmol peptide L⁻¹ h⁻¹ between 600 and 800 m. Dissolved free amino acid uptake rates were 9–26, 3–17, and 6 nmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹ at similar depth intervals. Since these findings are consistent with a model of comparable potential activity of microbes in degrading labile substrates of planktonic origin, we suggest, as do other authors, that differences in decomposition rates with high and low oxygen concentrations may be a matter of substrate lability. The comparison between hydrolysis and uptake rates indicates that microbial peptide hydrolysis occurs at similar or faster rates than amino acid uptake in the water column, and that the hydrolysis of peptides is not a rate-limiting step for the complete remineralization of labile macromolecules. Low O₂ waters process about 10 tons of peptide carbon per h, double the amount processed in surface-oxygenated water. In the oxygen minimum zone, we suggest that the C balance may be affected by the low lability of the dissolved organic matter when this is upwelled to the surface. An important fraction of dissolved organic matter is processed in the oxygen minimum layer, a prominent feature of the coastal ocean in the highly productive Humboldt Current System.     

Morphodynamic behaviour of a mixed sand–gravel ebb-tidal delta: Deben estuary,Suffolk, UK

The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 10⁶ m³ and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m². Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 10³ m³ yr^− 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes.     

Field measurements of longshore sediment transport during storms

This paper presents an analysis of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates based on an accumulation of data obtained during five storms. Direct measurements of velocities and suspended sediment concentration were conducted at a minimum of nine positions across a barred profile in waves up to H_m0=3.5 m to provide a measure of the cross-shore distribution and total suspended-load sediment transport rates. The study was conducted at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station's Field Research Facility, located in Duck, NC. Measurements were made using the Sensor Insertion System (SIS) which provides an economical means to collect the required information. The largest LST rate computed from the measurements was 1780 m³ h⁻¹. Although the cross-shore distribution of the LST varied, it most often had two peaks associated with wave shoaling and breaking at the bar and near the beach. Comparisons of measurement results with predictions using the ‘CERC' LST formula show the predicted rates were sometimes higher and other times lower; suggesting that additional terms may be required for short term predictions during storms. Comparisons to a ‘Bagnold' type formulation, which included a velocity term that could account for wind and other effects on LST, show better agreement for at least one of the storms. These results are intended to help fill a void of information documenting the cross-shore distribution and LST rates, particularly during storms.     

Morphostratigraphy of an ebb-tidal delta system associated with a large spit in the Piedras Estuary mouth (Huelva Coast,Southwestern Spain)

The Piedras Estuary is one of the most significative estuarine systems on the mesotidal Huelva Coast, in the Northwestern portion of the Cadix Gulf. The river mouth is presently an estuarine lagoon partially closed by a large spit constructed from an old barrier island system. This estuary is in an advanced state of infilling and its tidal prism has decreased during the Holocene causing instability and clogging of old inlets and transforming the barrier island chain into a spit. Sedimentation is controlled by the interaction of ebb tide currents and the prevailing SW waves. The main sediment supply is provided by an intensive West-to-East longshore current, transporting sand material from Portuguese cliffs and the Guadiana River. Tidal range is mesotidal (2.0 m) and the mean significant wave height is 0.6 m with an average period of 3.6 s.A boxcore study allowed five depositional facies to be distinguished in the Piedras Estuary mouth: (1) main ebb channels; (2) marginal flood channels; (3) ebb-tidal delta lobes; (4) marginal levees; and (5) curved spits. The recent evolution studied in this area suggests a cyclic evolutionary model for the ebb-tidal delta system. The architectural facies relations shown by the vibracore/boxcore study confirm that the apical growth of the spit occurred over the innermost of these ebb-tidal deltas. Consequently the preserved sequence shows the ebb-tidal delta facies under the spit facies.     

Thermocline ventilation and oxygen utilization rates in the subtropical North Pacific based on CFC distributions during WOCE

Thermocline ventilation rates for the subtropical North Pacific are determined using a 1-dimensional (meridional) along-isopycnal advective–diffusive model tuned to chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) concentrations measured along 152°W in 1991 during WOCE P16. Mean southward advection rates in the subtropics range from 1.03 to 0.56 cm s^-1 between σ_θ=25.5 and 26.6. Model-derived ventilation times for the subtropical gyre increase from about 10 to 27 years for that isopycnal range. Oxygen utilization rates (OURs) determined using the advective-diffusive model decrease with depth from 6.6 to 3.2 μmol kg^-1 yr^-1 between σ_θ=25.5 and 26.6. Extrapolation of the OUR versus depth trend to the base of the euphotic zone with the 1/Z power function of Martin et al. (1987) and integration from 500 to 100 m depth implies a carbon export rate from the overlying euphotic zone of 2.2±0.5 moles C m^-2 yr^-1 at 30°N, 152°W. Analysis of the WOCE radiocarbon and salinity distributions indicates that zonal and cross-isopycnal transport terms would have to be considered in modeling these tracers in the subtropical North Pacific.     

Trade-wind waves and mud dynamics on the French Guiana coast,South America: Input from ERA-40 wave data and field investigations

The South American coast between Brazil and Venezuela is affected by longshore migrating mud banks derived from the fine-grained Amazon sediment discharge. Onshore mud migration prevails over shallow ‘bank’ areas alternating alongshore with deeper ‘inter-bank’ areas. The transport on the inner shelf, and attachment to the shoreline, of this migrating mud has been attributed mainly to wind waves. However, the lack of in situ data on waves hampers understanding of the relationship between waves and mud dynamics. A 44-yr record (1960–2004) of the ERA-40 wave dataset generated by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used, in conjunction with field investigations in French Guiana, to define both event-scale and longer-term patterns of mud mobilisation induced by waves. The ratio H₀³ / T², combining wave height H and period T, and the angle of wave incidence α, were singled out as the most relevant parameters for describing wave forcing. Typical ‘bank’ and ‘inter-bank’ profiles and corresponding mud densities, and a 3-month record of changes in the thickness of the fluid mud layer in an estuarine navigation channel were monitored by echo-sounding from October 2002 to January 2003. An 80-day record of bed-level changes in the intertidal zone was obtained from August to November 2004 using a pressure transducer. The results on the wave regime of French Guiana confirm a distinctly seasonal pattern, and highlight an increase in H₀³ / T² over the 44-yr period related to an increase in trade-wind velocities determined from corresponding trends in Atlantic wind pseudo-stress off the South American coast. Wave forcing over bank areas leads to the liquefaction of a 1–3 m-thick layer of mud that is transported onshore (and alongshore by the longshore component of wave energy). The episodic nature of high wave energy events generally results in the formation of mud bar features from the shoreward mobilisation of gel-like fluid mud. The effect of waves on mud is particularly marked following long periods of low energy, and especially at the onset of the high wave energy season (October to May), when even moderate wave energy events can lead to significant mobilisation of mud.Significant phases of increased wave energy are attended by higher long-term (annual) rates of longshore mud bank migration but the correlation is rather poor between the wave forcing parameter H₀³ / T² and migration rates because stronger wave forcing is generally associated with low angles of wave incidence. This suggests a complementary role of other hydrodynamic mechanisms, such as geostrophic and tidal currents, in longshore mud bank migration.     

Size-fractionated biological iron and carbon uptake along a coastal to offshore transect in the NE Pacific

Iron has been shown to limit phytoplankton growth in high-nutrient low-chlorophyll (HNLC) regions such as the NE subarctic Pacific. We report size-fractionated Fe-uptake rates by the entire plankton community in short (6–8 h) light and dark incubations along an E–W transect from P04 (a coastal ocean station) to OSP (an open-ocean HNLC station) during August–September 1997. Size-fractionated primary productivity and chl a were measured to monitor algal Fe : C uptake ratios and Fe-uptake relative to phytoplankton biomass. The >5.0 μm size-class, which consisted mostly of large diatoms, had the highest Fe-uptake rate at nearshore stations (P04 and P8), but Fe-uptake rates for this size class decreased despite increases in biomass and primary productivity when transecting westwards to HNLC waters. Fe-uptake rates of the small size class (0.2–1.0 μm, including heterotrophic bacteria and autotrophs) were inversely related to the >5.0 μm size-class uptake rates, in that stations with high dissolved Fe (DFe) concentrations had relatively low uptake rates compared to those in the low-Fe offshore region. The 1.0–5.0 μm size-class Fe-uptake rates were low, relatively invariant along the transect, and differed little between light and dark incubations. Dark Fe-uptake rates averaged 10–20% less than those in the light for the >5.0 μm size class. Dark uptake rates however, were higher than light uptake rates for the 0.2–1.0 μm size class at all stations. Fe : C uptake ratios were high for all size classes at P04, but decreased as DFe concentrations decreased offshore. The prokaryote-dominated 0.2–1.0 μm size class had the highest Fe : C uptake ratios at all stations. These data suggest that prokaryotic organisms make an important contribution to biological Fe uptake in this region. Our experiments support the results of previous culture work, suggesting higher Fe : C ratios in coastal phytoplankton compared to open-ocean species, and demonstrate that light can have a large effect on Fe partitioning between size classes in subarctic Pacific HNLC waters.     

Focused wave evolution using linear and second order wavemaker theory

In this paper, the evolution of focused waves using different paddle displacements (piston type) under laboratory conditions is presented. It is well known that in intermediate water depths, linear paddle displacements will generate spurious, free, sub and super harmonics. Thus, a second order correction to suppress these spurious free sub and super harmonics was used to generate the focused waves. The focused waves were generated in the laboratory using a linear superimposition principle, in which the wave paddle displacement is derived based on the sum of a number of sinusoidal components at discrete frequencies, whose phases are accordingly set to focus at a particular location. For this method of generation, the second order wave maker theory proposed by Schäffer [24] can be easily adopted and was used in the present study. Two different centre frequencies (f_c = 0.68 Hz and 1.08 Hz) with three different bandwidth ratios (Δf/f_c = 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0) were tested in a constant water depth, to consider both narrow and broadband spectra. These test cases correspond to wave focusing packets propagating in intermediate and deep water regions. Further, for each wave packet, two different amplitudes were considered in order to analyze non-breaking and breaking cases. Thus, by systematically generating the wave packets using the linear and second order paddle displacements, the analysis was carried out for the spectral and temporal evolution of selected long waves. The temporal evolution of the selected harmonics was analyzed using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT), to show the propagation of the spurious, free, long waves. Further, the variations in energy for the lower, higher and primary frequency ranges are reported for different wave paddle displacements. The analysis revealed that for the broadband spectrum the differences are more pronounced when using linear paddle displacements. We have also noticed a shift in focusing/breaking location and time (i.e. premature) due to the increase in crest height using linear displacements. The experiment data used in this paper has been provided as a supplementary, which can be used to validate the numerical models.