基于HY-2 卫星观测分析南海风浪关系

海面有效波高(H1/3)是表征海浪的重要参数,随着卫星遥感技术的发展,雷达高度计已成为获取海面有效波高的重要手段,但也只能对卫星星下点轨迹处进行有效观测,远无法满足大范围应用的需求.本研究结合2013年10月HY-2雷达高度计观测的海面有效波高和微波散射计观测的海面风场资料,分别对高、低风速下风浪数据进行拟合,建立了适用于0~40 m/s风速范围内的南海海域风浪关系模型,经模型比对和结果验证,结果表明,基于HY-2卫星数据分析建立的南海海域风浪关系模型是可信的,特别是低风速的风浪模型与实测数据建立的风浪模型具有很好的一致性;根据建立的风浪关系模型,从卫星散射计大面观测的海面风场出发,能推算出风浪条件下海面有效波高的大面信息,数据覆盖远高于卫星高度计的星下点观测,能为分析和预报海浪、风暴潮灾害提供大范围的海面有效波高信息.     

南麂海域大浪与大风的分布关系

本文根据南麂海洋站１９８３～１９８９年实测风和浪的资料，分析了大风和大浪的关系。结果表明：大浪日、大风日各月出现次数不匀。风浪大浪日及涌浪大浪日出现比率分别占５６％和４４％。各向大浪波高均值变化幅度不大。各向大浪波高极值却有较大差异。风浪Ｈ１／１０波高为１．５～２．０ｍ、当风速为１１～１３ｍ／ｓ时，大浪出现频率最高。本文还给出了波龄较大的风浪大浪波高与大风风速的经验关系。基于不同类型的台风路径，得到了本区从Ｈ１／１０波高为１．５ｍ以上时台风中心的位置。利用此结果可以预报本区大浪出现的时间。     

Wave model predictions in the Black Sea: Sensitivity to wind fields

This paper evaluates the impact of using different wind field products on the performance of the third generation wave model SWAN in the Black Sea and its capability for predicting both normal and extreme wave conditions during 1996. Wind data were obtained from NCEP CFSR, NASA MERRA, JRA-25, ECMWF Operational, ECMWF ERA40, and ECMWF ERA-Interim. Wave data were obtained in 1996 at three locations in the Black Sea within the NATO TU-WAVES project. The quality of wind fields was assessed by comparing them with satellite data. These wind data were used as forcing fields for the generation of wind waves. Time series of predicted significant wave height (H_mo), mean wave period (T_m02), and mean wave direction (DIR) were compared with observations at three offshore buoys in the Black Sea and its performance was quantified in terms of statistical parameters. In addition, wave model performance in terms of significant wave height was also assessed by comparing them against satellite data.The main scope of this work is the impact of the different available wind field products on the wave hindcast performance. In addition, the sensitivity of wave model forecasts due to variations in spatial and temporal resolutions of the wind field products was investigated. Finally, the impact of using various wind field products on predicting extreme wave events was analyzed by focussing on storm peaks and on an individual storm event in October 1996. The numerical results revealed that the CFSR winds are more suitable in comparison with the others for modelling both normal and extreme events in the Black Sea. The results also show that wave model output is critically sensitive to the choice of the wind field product, such that the quality of the wind fields is reflected in the quality of the wave predictions. A finer wind spatial resolution leads to an improvement of the wave model predictions, while a finer temporal resolution in the wind fields generally does not significantly improve agreement between observed and simulated wave data.     

Estimation of wind speed and wave height during cyclones

Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone.     

基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)

简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。     

风浪状态对海面粗糙度影响

风浪状态参数常用于对海面粗糙度的参数化。中等风速条件下考虑风浪状态参数影响的海面粗糙度参数化方案常存在自相关效应,本文通过分析实测数据得到了无量纲粗糙度随波陡变化的参数化方案,该方案能够有效去除自相关效应;高风速下风浪状态对海面粗糙度仍存在影响,文中基于新得出的中等风速下的海面粗糙度参数化方案,考虑海面飞沫悬浮层的影响,建立了适用于高风速条件下的海面粗糙度参数化方案,该海面粗糙度方案同样考虑了波陡的作用,将该方案计算出的理论值与实测数据进行比对,发现随着波陡的变化,理论值基本涉及测量值的覆盖范围,说明新建立的高风速条件下海面粗糙度方案对海面风浪状态具有较好的敏感性,且该方案能够较合理地描述海气界面之间动量传输。将新提出的适用于高风速下的海面粗糙度方案加入到海浪数值模式中,模拟飓风Ivan产生的台风浪,利用浮标数据进行验证,结果显示模拟的有效波高相对模式默认方案具有较高的精度,说明采用本文新建立的适合高风速的海面粗糙度方案能够改进海浪模式的台风浪有效波高模拟结果。     

江苏沿海波浪多重嵌套模拟研究

根据24年CCMP风场资料和江苏沿海4个方向(N、NE、E和SE)百年一遇风速,构建西北太平洋、东中国海和江苏沿海上述4个方向的百年一遇风场。首次建立一个基于第三代海浪模型SWAN的自西北太平洋、东中国海至江苏沿海的三重嵌套数值模型,以AVISO卫星观测数据和江苏沿海定点实测数据进行验证。以三个计算域4个方向百年一遇风场为驱动风场,驱动该多重嵌套模型,高精度数值模拟江苏沿海4个方向百年一遇有效波高分布并进行分析。结果表明,江苏沿海辐射沙洲地形对有效波高分布影响显著;E向百年一遇风场作用下海域有效波高最大,NE向次之,N向和SE较小。     

Assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a spectral wave model using statistical interpolation

A scheme for the assimilation of altimeter wave height data into a second generation wave prediction model is developed. The scheme modifies the model wave spectrum so as to be consistent with the satellite observed values of significant wave height. This modification is achieved, however, so that the adjusted wave field is consistent with the model physics and the forcing wind field. In this manner the modifications to the wave field persist in the model, thus yielding long term improvements in model performance. In addition, a statistical interpolation scheme is used to ensure that maximum use is made of the point observations made by the satellite. In this manner, not only points directly beneath the satellite track are updated. Points adjacent to the track are also modified, the extent of this modification depending on the spatial correlation of the wave field. The scheme is applied to a computationally efficient second generation wave model. The improvement in performance is significant, demonstrating that assimilation may be a very efficient alternative to proceeding to more sophisticated and expensive third generation models. This is particularly true where the forcing wind field may be of poor quality. The results also demonstrate that with the addition of assimilation, relatively small computational grids can be utilized. Swell generated external to the grid will be included through the assimilation cycle.     

南麂海域台风影响过程中的波浪特征

根据１９８３－１９８９年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料，分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明，这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪，在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高，既有较大波陡的风浪，也有波陡较小的清浪；各向波高的均值变化不大，各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距；本区的台风浪以４级波高占优，风浪以ＮＮＥ向、涌浪以Ｅ向为常浪向；波高为４级的风浪和涌浪，其周期分别在４．０－４．９Ｓ和７．０－７．９Ｓ之     

基于核函数NPSSB模型的HY-2A卫星雷达高度计海况偏差研究

利用机器学习的方法,对14个周期HY-2A卫星高度计数据:风速、有效波高和海面高度差值进行训练,探究海况偏差和风速、有效波高之间的关系,创建海况偏差核函数非参数模型(NPSSB),并与参数模型中具有代表性的BM3、BM4模型进行对比。研究表明:(1)核函数NPSSB模型能够很好的反映SSB与U、SWH之间的关系,SSB与U呈二次函数关系,SSB与SWH呈反比例函数关系;(2)核函数NPSSB模型对SSB的模拟能力与训练数据集相关,数据量越多,模拟能力越好;(3)核函数NPSSB模型与BM3、BM4模型都存在0^-0.03 m的差值,随着风速和有效波高的增加,差值的绝对值越大。     

44-year wave hindcast for the Eastern Mediterranean

Within the EU-funded project HIPOCAS (Hindcast of Dynamic Processes of the Ocean and Coastal Area of Europe), high-resolution wave hindcasts were performed for the period 1958–2001 over the Eastern Mediterranean. The state-of-the-art WAM model was used for producing the 44-year wave data set. The wave model was driven by wind data generated from the regional atmospheric model REMO. The WAM model outputs of significant wave height were validated against in-situ measurements and satellite data. The model results show a good agreement with observations. The homogeneous wave data set produced by the model was then used for a study of long-term variability and climatic trends in the region.     

Testing and verifying the wind wave model with an optimized source function

With the purpose of revealing the actual advantages of the new source function that was earlier proposed in [5] for use in numerical wind wave models, its testing and verification was carried out by means of modification of the WAM (Cycle-4) model. The verification was performed on the basis of a comparison of the results of wave simulation for a given wind field with the buoy observation data obtained in three oceanic regions. In the Barents Sea, this kind of comparison was made for wave observations from a single buoy with an interval of 6 hours for a period of 3 years. In two regions of the North Atlantic, the comparison was performed for 3 buoys in both regions for observation periods of 30 days with an interval of 1 hour. Estimations of the simulation accuracy were obtained for a series of wind wave parameters, and they were compared with the original and modified WAM model. Advantages of the modified model consisting of the enhancement of the calculation speed by 20–25% and a 1.5- to 2-fold increase in the simulation accuracy for the significant wave height and the mean period were proved.     

Improving the wind and wave estimation of dual-frequency altimeter JASON1 in Typhoon Shanshan and considering the rain effects

Altimetry data have been widely used in various fiehts of oceanography, including the extreme weather events such as tropical cyclones, typhoons, and hurricanes. The performance of JASON1 in Typhoon Shanshan is assessed by examining the sensor geophysical data record and illustrates how the measured return waveform, significant wave height, and backscatter are all affected by various factors associated with the typhoon, with details by the rain are illustrated. The correction method to maintain accurate wave height and wind speed measurements in Typhoon Shanshan and the results are presented. Furthermore, the additional results of rain rate and typhoon eye diameter can be retrieved. Because of the lack of in-situ measurements of wind, wave, and rain rate at Typhoon Shanshan, results are compared with the forecasted typhoon data and a good agreement is found.     

Derivation of coastal wind and wave parameters from offshore measurements of TOPEX satellite using ANN

The paper discusses an artificial neural network (ANN) approach to project information on wind speed and waves collected by the TOPEX satellite at deeper locations to a specified coastal site. The observations of significant wave heights, average wave period and wind speed at a number of locations over a satellite track parallel to a coastline are used to estimate corresponding values of these three parameters at the coastal site of interest. A combined network involving an input and output of all the three parameters, viz., wave height, period and wind speed instead of separate networks for each one of these variables was found to be necessary in order to train the network with sufficient flexibility. It was also found that network training based on statistical homogeneity of data sets is essential to obtain accurate results. The problem of modeling wind speeds that are always associated with very high variations in their magnitudes was tackled in this study by imparting training in an innovated manner.     

Wind wave characteristics based on visual Observations and satellite altimetry

Joint analysis of wind wave characteristics derived from the Voluntary Observing Ship data (VOS) and satellite altimetry is presented as the first step of the synthesis of different data sources. Global distributions of significant wave heights and periods along with wind speed are constructed using various techniques and empirical parameterizations. Good qualitative and quantitative agreement of VOS and satellite altimetry is found especially for regions with high spatio-temporal density of observations. The problems and prospects of the further development of the study are discussed in the context of global wave climatology and marine safety.     

Wind waves in the coastal zone of the southern crimea: Assessment of simulation quality based on in situ measurements

The study verifies the Black Sea wave model using field data obtained from the Katsiveli research platform. The WAM and mesoscale MM5 and WRF atmospheric models, which are used to calculate the wind field for the wave model, were recently adjusted to the Black Sea region at the Marine Hydrophysical Institute. The results of the work are presented as characteristics of the simulation quality used in world practice in other regions. The scatter index for a significant wave height is 70% in summer and 50% in winter. The values of the scatter index of wave parameters and wind speed appear to be at the same level as in semi-enclosed seas on the northern side of the Mediterranean Sea. It is shown that atmospheric simulation correctly reproduces the interaction between synoptic processes and the mountain range extending alongshore. Error sources in wave simulation are discussed. The most significant drawback is the possibility of mesoscale instability in the atmospheric model without assimilation of observation data within the computational domain.     

Winds and Waves in the Yellow and East China Seas: A Comparison of Spaceborne Altimeter Measurements and Model Results

Wind speed and wave height measured by satellite altimeters represent a good data source to the study of global and regional wind and wave conditions. In this paper, the TOPEX altimeter wind and wave measurements in the Yellow and East China Seas are analyzed. The results provide a glimpse on the statistical properties and the spatial distributions of the regional wind and wave conditions. These data are excellent for use in the validation and verification of numerical simulations on global and regional scales. The altimeter measurements are compared with model output of temporal statistics and spatial distributions. The results show that the model simulations are in good agreement with TOPEX measurements in terms of the local mean and standard deviation of the variables (wave height and wind speed). For the comparison of spatial distributions, the quality of agreement between numerical simulations and altimeter measurements varies significantly from cycle to cycle of altimeter passes. In many cases, trends in the spatial distributions of wave heights and wind speeds between simulations and measurements are opposite. The statistics of biases, rms differences, linear regression coefficients and correlation coefficients are presented. A rather large percentage (∼50%) of cases show poor agreement based on a combination of low correlation, large rms difference or bias, and poor regression coefficient. There are indications that wave age is a factor affecting the performance of wave modeling skills. Generally speaking, the error statistics in the wave field is correlated to the corresponding error statistics in the wind field under the condition of active wind-wave generation. The error statistics between the wave field and the wind field become less correlated for large wave ages. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Temporal significant wave height estimation from wind speed by perceptron Kalman filtering

Significant wave height estimates are necessary for many applications in coastal and offshore engineering and therefore various estimation models are proposed in the literature for this purpose. Unfortunately, most of these models provide simultaneous wave height estimations from wind speed measurements. However, in practical studies, the prediction of significant wave height is necessary from previous time interval measurements. This paper presents a dynamic significant wave height prediction procedure based on the perceptron Kalman filtering concepts. Past measurements of significant wave height and wind speed variables are used for training the adaptive model and it is then employed to predict the significant wave height amounts for future time intervals from the wind speed measurements only. The verification of the proposed model is achieved through the dynamic significant wave height and wind speed time series plots, observed versus predicted values scatter diagram and the classical linear significant wave height models. The application of the proposed model is presented for a station in USA.     

Long-term regional hurricane hazard analysis for wind and storm surge

This paper introduces a new method to estimate the long-term regional hurricane wind and storm surge hazard. The output is a relatively small set of hurricane scenarios that together represent the regional hazard. For each scenario, the method produces a hazard-consistent annual occurrence probability, and wind speeds and surge levels throughout the study area. These scenarios can be used for subsequent evacuation or loss estimation modeling. This optimization-based probabilistic scenario (OPS) method involves first simulating tens of thousands of candidate hurricane scenarios with wind speeds and approximate surge depths. A mixed-integer linear optimization is then used to select a subset of scenarios and assign hazard-consistent annual occurrence probabilities to each. Finally, a surge model is used to estimate accurate surge depths for the reduced set of events. The method considers the correlation between winds and surge depths and the spatial correlations of each; it is computationally efficient; and it makes explicit the tradeoff between the number of scenarios selected and the errors introduced by using a reduced set of events. A case study for Eastern North Carolina is presented in which a final set of 97 hurricanes provides unbiased results with errors small enough for many practical uses.     

Artificial neural network to translate offshore satellite wave data to coastal locations

Owing to the spatial averaging involved in satellite sensing, use of observations so collected is often restricted to offshore regions. This paper discusses a technique to obtain significant wave heights at a specified coastal site from their values gathered by a satellite at deeper offshore locations. The technique is based on the approach of Artificial Neural Network (ANN) of Radial Basis Function (RBF) and Feed-forward Back-propagation (FFBP) type. The satellite-sensed data of significant wave height; average wave period and the wind speed were given as input to the network in order to obtain significant wave heights at a coastal site situated along the west coast of India. Qualitative as well as quantitative comparison of the network output with target observations showed usefulness of the selected networks in such an application vis-à-vis simpler techniques like statistical regression. The basic FFBP network predicted the higher waves more correctly although such a network was less attractive from the point of overall accuracy. Unlike satellite observations collection of buoy data is costly and hence, it is generally resorted to fewer locations and for a smaller period of time. As shown in this study the network can be trained with samples of buoy data and can be further used for routine wave forecasting at coastal locations based on more permanent flow of satellite observations.