Forces and moment on a horizontal plate due to regular and irregular waves in the presence of current

This work presents an experimental study of a submerged plate used as a breakwater for coastal areas protection. Questions addressed concern the influence of current on the reflective power of the plate, and its influence on the hydrodynamic loads exerted on it. Results concern both monochromatic and irregular waves. Generally speaking, an influence of the current is found, changing the reflecting power of the structure up to 50%. A homogenized behavior of the loads and moments is found in the presence of currents, meaning that the load values become less sensitive to the frequency. Furthermore, the influence of waves reflected by the wave absorber, representing partially reflective conditions at the shore, is found to be of same order in the absence of current. In any case, the linear behavior of the breakwater is emphasized through the irregular waves approach.     

Interaction of dispersive water waves with weakly sheared currents of arbitrary profile

A set of depth-integrated equations describing combined wave–current flows is derived and validated. To account for the effect of turbulence induced by interactions between waves and currents with arbitrary horizontal vorticity, new additional stress terms are introduced. These stresses are functions of a parameter b that relates the relative importance of wave radiation stress and bottom friction stress to the wave–current interaction. To solve the equations, a fourth-order MUSCL-TVD scheme with an approximate Riemann solver is adopted. As a first-order check of the model, the Doppler shift effect and wave dispersion over linearly sheared currents are analytically shown to be retained appropriately in the equation set. The model results are then validated through comparisons with three experimental data sets. First, based on the experiments of Kemp and Simons (1982, 1983), a reasonable functional form of b is estimated. Second, simulations examining the propagation of a weakly dispersive wave over a depth-uniform or linearly sheared current are performed. Finally, the model is applied to a more complex configuration where bichromatic waves interact with spatially varying currents. Simulated results indicate that the model is capable of predicting nearshore interactions of waves with currents of arbitrary vertical structure. One of the unique properties of the developed model is its ability to assimilate an external current field from any source, be it from a circulation model or an observation, and predict the interaction of a nonlinear and dispersive wave field with that current.     

Predicting bed form roughness: the influence of lee side angle

Flow transverse bedforms (ripples and dunes) are ubiquitous in rivers and coastal seas. Local hydrodynamics and transport conditions depend on the size and geometry of these bedforms, as they constitute roughness elements at the bed. Bedform influence on flow energy must be considered for the understanding of flow dynamics, and in the development and application of numerical models. Common estimations or predictors of form roughness (friction factors) are based mostly on data of steep bedforms (with angle-of-repose lee slopes), and described by highly simplified bedform dimensions (heights and lengths). However, natural bedforms often are not steep, and differ in form and hydraulic effect relative to idealised bedforms. Based on systematic numerical model experiments, this study shows how the hydraulic effect of bedforms depends on the flow structure behind bedforms, which is determined by the bedform lee side angle, aspect ratio and relative height. Simulations reveal that flow separation behind bedform crests and, thus, a hydraulic effect is induced at lee side angles steeper than 11 to 18° depending on relative height, and that a fully developed flow separation zone exists only over bedforms with a lee side angle steeper than 24°. Furthermore, the hydraulic effect of bedforms with varying lee side angle is evaluated and a reduction function to common friction factors is proposed. A function is also developed for the Nikuradse roughness (k _s), and a new equation is proposed which directly relates k _s to bedform relative height, aspect ratio and lee side angle.     

Parameterization and simulation of near bed orbital velocities under irregular waves in shallow water

A set of empirical formulations is derived that describe important wave properties in shallow water as functions of commonly used parameters such as wave height, wave period, local water depth and local bed slope. These wave properties include time varying near-bed orbital velocities and statistical properties such as the distribution of wave height and wave period. Empirical expressions of characteristic wave parameters are derived on the basis of extensive analysis of field data using recently developed evolutionary algorithms. The field data covered a wide range of wave conditions, though there were few conditions with wave periods greater than 15 s. Comparison with field measurements showed good agreement both on a time scale of a single wave period as well as time averaged velocity moments.     

Dynamics of Rossby waves in an ocean with inhomogeneous currents

A model for a two-layer ocean is applied to consider, in terms of the geometrical optics approximation, the effect of mean flows propagating within the upper layer upon the dynamics of Rossby waves. The case is theoretically analysed, with the depth of the ocean's upper layer much smaller than that of the underlying layer. In this case, the flow's impact upon the baroclinic mode of Rossby waves is ubiquitous, with the exception of synchronicity. Depending on the parameters, four types of wave packets' behaviour in the vicinity of synchronicity points are singled out, namely, the elimination of the peculiarity, shadowing, and convective/absolute instability. For the mean flow profile simulating cyclonic and anticyclonic gyres, we have obtained wave packet trajectories and have studied the wave packet's interaction with the current. Specifically, it has been demonstrated that, given some modulus of the wave packet, vigorous energy exchange between the wave vector and the flow takes place. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

不规则波情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播方向的研究

本文以沿岸流不稳定运动实验中流速仪采集到的不规则波的流速时间历程为基础,利用相关性分析,得到两个不同位置处对应流速时间历程的最大相关系数和延迟时间,进而分析沿岸流不稳定运动在1∶40和1∶100平直斜坡上的传播方向,并且分析了其随入射波高、周期的变化。结果表明沿岸流不稳定运动在海岸垂向环流系统的作用下,其传播方向会向海方向偏移,与岸线角度大约在0°到45°之间,且在1∶40和1∶100坡情况下,沿岸流不稳定运动的偏移角分别随入射周期和波高的增加而增加,但1∶100坡的增加幅值较小,大约为1∶40坡情况下的1/2。     

Effect of bed roughness on turbulent boundary layer and net sediment transport under asymmetric waves

This paper presents an investigation of the roughness effects in the turbulent boundary layer for asymmetric waves by using the baseline (BSL) k–ω model. This model is validated by a set of the experimental data with different wave non-linearity index, N_i (namely, N_i = 0.67, N_i = 0.60 and N_i = 0.58). It is further used to simulate asymmetric wave velocity flows with several values of the roughness parameter (a_m/k_s) which increase gradually, namely from a_m/k_s = 35 to a_m/k_s = 963. The effect of the roughness tends to increase the turbulent kinetic energy and to decrease the mean velocity distribution in the inner boundary layer, whereas in the outer boundary layer, the roughness alters the turbulent kinetic energy and the mean velocity distribution is relatively unaffected. A new simple calculation method of bottom shear stress based on incorporating velocity and acceleration terms is proposed and applied into the calculation of the rate of bed-load transport induced by asymmetric waves. And further, the effect of bed roughness on the bottom shear stress and bed-load sediment transport under asymmetric waves is examined with the turbulent model, the newly proposed method, and the existing calculation method. It is found that the higher roughness elements increase the magnitude of bottom shear stress along a wave cycle and consequently, the potential net sediment transport rate. Moreover, the wave non-linearity also shows a big impact on the bottom shear stress and the net sediment transport.     

浅水不规则波浪中油轮运动研究

本文对一般油轮在浅水不规则波浪中六自由度运动进行了试验分析,并对其碰底情况做了研究。试验时对有流情况下不同波高、不同装载的条件进行了分析比较。模型的六自由度运动是用非接触式六自由度运动测量与分析方法求得。该方法应用位置测量仪（ＰＳＤ）对安置在模型上的红外线发光源（ＬＥＤ）进行测量,然后所编制的软件计算出模型的六个自由度运动情况。     

The reffection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed

This study examines the reffection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reffection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer...     

Sea-surface roughness length fluctuating in concert with wind and waves

When the nondimensional aerodynamic roughness parameter for the sea surface (gz ₀/u _* ²,g being the acceleration of gravity,u _* the air friction velocity) is plotted as a function of the wave age, the data points in the diagram are distributed mostly in a triangle area between the Charnock formula and the Toba-Koga formula; the nondimensional roughness perameter is not expressed as a unique function of the wave age, but rather there seem to be multiple regimes. In order to investigate the cause of the data point scattering, a reanalysis was made of the 4.5-hour time series of the wind profile and wind-wave statistics which were obtained at an oceanographic tower station under the conditions of a winter monsoon wind having slightly fluctuating speed and steadily growing wind waves.It is concluded that the averaged variation ofz ₀ is given by the Toba-Koga formula with a constant of value 0.015. However, as a result of the wind fluctuation on the time scales ranging from several minutes to an hour, data points show a conspicuous fluctuation on the nondimensional roughness parameter-wave age diagram in the direction transverse to the averaged variation. The variation inz ₀ directly reflects the degree of over- or under-saturation in the high-frequency range of the wind-wave spectra. Physical interpretation of these variations is also presented.     

The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed

This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented.     

Power capture performance of an oscillating-body WEC with nonlinear snap through PTO systems in irregular waves

Compared with solar and wind energy, wave energy is a kind of renewable resource which is enormous and still under development. In order to utilize the wave energy, various types of wave energy converters (WECs) have been proposed and studied. And oscillating-body WEC is widely used for offshore deployment. For this type of WEC, the oscillating motion of the floater is converted into electricity by the power take off (PTO) system, which is usually mathematically simplified as a linear spring and a damper. The linear PTO system is characteristic of frequency-dependent response and the energy absorption is less powerful for off resonance conditions. Thus a nonlinear snap through PTO system consisting of two symmetrically oblique springs and a linear damper is applied. A nonlinear parameter γ is defined as the ratio of half of the horizontal distance between the two oblique springs to the original length of both springs. JONSWAP spectrum is utilized to generate the time series of irregular waves. Time domain method is used to establish the motion equation of the oscillating-body WEC in irregular waves. And state space model is applied to replace the convolution term in the time domain motion equation. Based on the established motion equation, the motion response of both the linear and nonlinear WEC is numerically calculated using 4th Runge–Kutta method, after which the captured power can be obtained. Then the influences of wave parameters such as peak frequency, significant wave height, damping coefficient of the PTO system and the nonlinear parameter γ on the power capture performance of the nonlinear WEC is discussed in detail. Results show that compared with linear PTO system, the nonlinear snap through PTO system can increase the power captured by the oscillating body WEC in irregular waves.     

Bed load transport under irregular waves plus current from Monte Carlo simulations of parameterized models with application to ripple migration rates observed in the field

The bed load transport rate under random waves plus current has been predicted for a large range of wave–current conditions. A parameterized model valid for regular waves plus current has been used in Monte Carlo simulations, assuming the wave amplitudes to be Rayleigh distributed. The mean value, standard deviation and numerical estimates of the probability density function of the bed load transport rate are presented for a wide range of wave–current conditions. It appears that overall the effect of the current is dominating the bed load transport rate. Moreover, a significant scatter of the bed load transport rate under random waves plus current is found. Such a scatter is also found in field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1]. Predicted ripple migration rates in the bed load regime have been compared with those obtained from field measurements by Amos et al. [J. Coast. Res. 15 (1999) 1], taking the bed load transport rate to be proportional to the ripple migration rate times the ripple height. Overall, the predictions capture the qualitative as well as the quantitative behaviour of the ripple migration rates in a wide range of wave–current conditions; the ripple migration rates, and thereby the bed load, are predicted within the correct order of magnitude for a wide range of wave–current conditions.     

Contribution of waves and currents to sediment resuspension in the Yellow River Delta

The objective of this study was to investigate that the effects of different hydrodynamic conditions on sediment resuspension on a tidal mudflat in the Yellow River Estuary. A field experiment was conducted on an intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta, China. The sediment resuspension concentrations and hydrodynamic conditions were obtained in the field from September 2–7, 2013. The resuspended sediment concentrations induced by wave loading were compared with those induced by coupled wave–current actions in Yellow River Delta. The results were as follows: (1) when the wave height was higher than 10?cm and the shear stress induced by the waves was greater than the critical stress of the seabed sediments, the surface seabed was eroded and sediment was resuspended. In addition, 60% of the significant wave heights were larger than 10?cm on the intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta. (2) The contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was greater than 30% when the significant wave height is higher than 10?cm, and the average contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was 51%. The mechanism of wave-induced sediment resuspension and processes of sediment resuspension were described in this paper.     

Velocity distributions of waves and currents in the combined flow

The theoretical model presented here is designed to predict waves and currents velocity profiles in the combined wave and current motion near a fixed bed. It is also valid for the pure wave motion, because the pure wave motion is only a special case of the combined flow. This model has been derived by using the equation of motion and the eddy viscosity assumptions which are somewhat different from those of former authors. Although the model is simple, the predictions are quite good compared with experimental data from Jonsson and Carlsen (1976) No. 1 and No. 2, Van Doorn (1981) V00RA, V10RA and V20RA, Van Doorn (1982) S00RAL, S10RAL and S20RAL, and Jensen (1989) Test-12 and Test-13.     

潮汐和潮流影响下苏北辐射沙洲海域波浪模拟分析

基于第三代海浪模型SWAN,采用自嵌套的方法提供谱边界条件,对影响苏北辐射沙洲海域的一次冷空气过程和一次台风过程作用下的波浪进行了模拟。考虑到沙洲海域强潮水动力环境,分析了潮位和潮流的变化对该海域波浪的影响。结果表明,沙洲处波高和波周期受潮位影响显著,受潮流影响弱,具有潮周期起伏的特点,而波向受潮位潮流影响不显著;考虑高潮位后,以弶港为界,南北辐射沙洲波高显著增加的区域与波浪传播方向有关:波浪由北向南传播,相差不大,波浪由东向西传播,北部明显大于南部。     

不规则波中半潜式平台及其系泊系统动力响应分析

采用时域分析方法,研究某半潜式平台在不规则波作用下的动力响应特性。重点分析在不同浪向角情况下,平台系统有1根锚链缆发生断裂时,其运动谱与锚链缆张力谱的变化特性。研究表明,在该半潜平台遭遇恶劣海况时,一旦有某1根锚链缆发生断裂,则对整个平台系统的动力响应特性将是有很大影响的。     

近岸沿岸流及污染物运动的数值模拟

基于双曲型缓坡方程和近岸浅水方程对近岸波浪斜向入射破碎所生成的沿岸流及污染物在沿岸波流作用下的运动进行了数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析。数值模拟结果表明,在相近工况参数下,随着入射波高的增大,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值均明显增大;随着岸坡坡度的增加,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值明显增大;随着入射波浪周期的增大,平均水面升高值明显增大。在沿岸缓坡区域,由斜向入射波浪破碎所产生的沿岸流对污染物的运动起着不可忽略的影响。