长江口沙波统计特征及输移规律

利用多波束测深系统对长江口南港、北槽、横沙通道和北港水下地貌进行测量,对沙波波高、波长、迎流倾角、背流倾角、水深和沉积物特征进行统计,并根据流速、沉积物粒径及水深估算其潮周期内净位移。结果表明:长江口沙波基本都为大型沙波,且沙波大小与其所在区域沉积物粒径呈正比关系;长江口各个区域沙波的对称性不同,涨、落潮优势流越明显,则沙波对称性越差,净位移越大;沙波对称性能反映此区域水动力强弱及潮周期内沙波净位移大小。     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

基于AIS和潮汐数据的航道水深利用状况研究——以天津港复式航道为例

为直观表征近岸航道水深利用状况,提出应用一定时间尺度内最低瞬时水深、平均瞬时水深与海图水深、海图水深和深度基准面L值之和间的差异分布,定性分析水深利用状况的方法;提出以AIS报文中船舶吃水字段与对应海图水深的比值作为量化指标,定量分析水深利用状况的方法。天津港复式航道计算实例结果表明,南北两侧小船航道水深利用程度高于主航道,且小船航道处于高的水深利用状态;主航道水深利用程度相对较高,且其具有较大的水深可利用空间。综合考虑,在疏浚任务中应侧重南侧小船航道的疏浚,以提升天津港复式航道区域的综合水深利用状况。     

Simulating offshore sand waves

Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabeds of sandy shallow seas and pose a threat to a range of offshore activities. A two-dimensional vertical (2DV) flow and morphological simulation model describing the behaviour of these sand waves has been developed. The simulation model contains the 2DV shallow water equations, with a free water surface and a general bed load formula. The water movement is coupled to the sediment transport equation with a seabed evolution equation. The domain is non-periodic in both directions. The spatial discretisation is performed by a spectral method based on Chebyshev polynomials. A fully implicit method is chosen for the discretisation in time. Firstly, we validate the simulation model mathematically by reproducing the results obtained using a linear stability analysis for infinitely small sand waves. Hereby, we investigate a steady current situation induced by a wind stress applied at the sea surface. The bed forms we find have wavelengths in the order of hundreds of metres when the resistance at the seabed is relatively large. The results show that it is possible to model the initial evolution of sand waves with a numerical simulation model. This paper forms the necessary first step to investigate the intermediate term behaviour of sand waves.     

两相流模型在南海内孤立波与沙波相互作用中的应用

为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m³的悬沙浓度。     

南沙头通道及横沙通道对长江口深水航道的影响分析

根据长江口南沙头通道、横沙通道和南北槽分汊口的断面水深变化及长江口南北港和南北槽的分流比变化实测资料,分析了长江口北槽深水航道淤积的原因。结果表明,北槽深水航道上段淤积受多种因素影响,其中,南沙头通道和横沙通道的发展对深水航道影响最大。南沙头通道的发展在加大落潮流量的同时,对南港南岸会产生一定的冲刷,后经沙洲的阻挡,把泥沙带向南港北岸,在北槽进口段处落淤,直接影响了进入深水航道的落潮量;横沙通道由于直接贯通了北港北槽的水沙交换,因而削弱了南港和北槽之间的水沙交换,促使北槽深水航道上段产生淤积,这也是南槽河道上段刷深的一个主要原因,而南槽河道的发展必然减少了进入北槽的落潮量,进一步加剧了北槽深水航道上段的淤积。同时,科氏力与北槽南导堤分流口鱼咀工程对深水航道也造成了一定的不可忽视的影响。研究成果对治理北槽深水航道淤积问题保障深水航道正常运行具有十分重要的科学实践意义。     

Diffraction of multidirectional random waves by multiple rectangular submarine pits

A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations.     

Sediment facies and pathways of sand transport about a large deep water headland,Cape Rodney,New Zealand

Cape Rodney is a large headland that protrudes 3–4 km into deep water in the Hauraki Gulf and separates the Mangawhai‐Pakiri and Omaha littoral cells. Detailed swath mapping of seabed sediments around Cape Rodney was carried out using by side‐scan sonar and ground‐truthed by SCUBA, grab sampling, and video. Despite the barrier imposed by the headland two pathways of sand transport around the headland, separated by the topographic high of Leigh Reef, have been identified. One lies close to the headland, where sand from the beach and nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is driven by waves and currents along a 500‐m‐wide pathway in c. 20–25 m depth around the headland to the vicinity of Leigh Harbour. The other lies in 50 m water‐depth seawards of Leigh Reef. Here fine sand, sourced from the nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment and driven offshore from the tip of the headland, is transported back and forth by tidal currents in 50 m water depth on the floor of the Jellicoe Channel. The sand bodies along both these pathways are thin and so sand leakage from the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is thought to be small. Transport at these depths is dependent on both tide and wave generated currents and episodic occurring during storm events. The sediment facies associated with little sand transport about a headland in deep water is one of thin and discontinuous and patchy sand cover between rocky areas and over coarser megarippled substrate. Ocean swell, tidally driven phase eddies that spin up on both sides of the headland, and bathymetry all play a role in shaping those facies.     

海南东方岸外海底沙波活动性研究

对海南东方岸外 2 0～ 50 m水深海底沙波形成的动力环境、形态特征、剖面结构及其分布特征进行了描述和分析。根据环境参数 ,对其活动性进行了计算 ,并将计算结果与发育环境相类似的 Surtainville沙波进行了类比。认为研究区沙波主要系在潮流作用下形成。研究区沙波迁移速率为每年数米。东区 (水深 2 0～ 40 m)是沙波发育的主体 ,受落潮流作用 ,沙波自北向南迁移 ;西区 (水深 36～ 52 m)沙波受涨潮流控制自南向北迁移 ;中区为过渡区 ,沙波相对稳定     

A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation: Application to Fire Island Inlet (USA) and Badreveln Spit (Sweden)

A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation adjacent to an inlet (of arbitrary width), supplied by sediment coming from longshore sediment transport, was developed based on the spit growth model proposed by Kraus (1999). The fundamental governing equation is the conservation equation for sand, where the width of the spit is assumed constant during growth. The portion of the longshore sediment transport feeding the spit has been estimated based on the ratio between the depth of the inlet channel and the depth of active longshore transport. Sediment transport from the channel due to the inlet flow, as well as other sinks of sand (e.g., dredging), are taken into account. Measured data on spit elongation at Fire Island Inlet, United States, and at Badreveln Spit, Sweden, were used to validate the model. The simulated results agree well with the measured data at both study sites, where spit growth at Fire Island was restricted by the inlet flow and the growth at Badreveln Spit was unrestricted. The model calculation for Fire Island Inlet indicates that the dredging to maintain channel navigation is the major reason for the stable period observed from 1954 to 1994 at the Fire Island barrier. The average annual net longshore transport rate at the eastern side of the Fire Island inlet obtained in this study was about 220,000 m³/yr, of which approximately 165,000 m³/yr (75% of the net longshore transport) is deposited in the inlet feeding the spit growth, whereas the remaining portion (25%) is bypassed downdrift through the ebb shoal complex.     

广利河口航道整治研究

广利河口拦门沙航道水深较浅,用双导堤结合航道疏浚进行整治。通过潮流定床模型试验对航道走向、导堤间距、高程、水流流态和堤头布置等进行了方案优化,同时采用局部动床定性试验进行了验证。推荐方案沿程流速、流态分布合理,基本能维持航道水深并满足设计船型的航行条件,可供类似河口治理参考。     

基于数字高程模型定量分析长江口深水航道工程治理效果

长江口深水航道工程于1998年开工建设,2002年和2005年一期和二期工程先后竣工,分别达到8.5和10.0 m通航水深。自2006年三期工程实施以来,北槽航道中段连续4a发生严重淤积,年疏浚维护量平均达6×107m3,影响三期工程目标的如期实现。通过自主开发的数字高程模型定量分析平台,建立时间序列的空间分布属性数据库,对长江口深水航道工程治理过程前后的河床冲淤变化规律和工程效果进行量化分析,分析结果揭示了长江口南港北槽深水航道近期淤积的泥沙来源、淤积过程、主要淤积原因和淤积部位,从而为工程治理对策提供科学依据。     

Across-shelf sediment dispersal, Hauraki Gulf, New Zealand

Side-scan, seismic and surficial sediment data accompanied by current meter records highlight across-shelf sediment transport in Hauraki Gulf, an island-studded embayment off northern New Zealand. Calm weather currents are locally dominated by the tides, with periodic incursions of oceanic water from detached meanders of the East Auckland Current. Under these conditions, bedload transport occurs mainly in three 15–20 km-wide channels, where bathymetric intensification of the flow brings about near-bottom speeds of up to 82 cm s⁻¹ for Colville Channel and 33–44 cm s⁻¹ in Jellicoe and Cradock Channels. Surficial sediments are gravelly to muddy sand, winnowed in places, leaving a lag deposit of mainly biogenic carbonate gravel. Modelling results suggest that in Colville Channel, dominant fine to medium sand modes are mobile for 20–60% of the time, with a net eastward movement for fine sand. In Jellicoe and Cradock Channels, the prevailing direction of transport is southwards across the shelf, with sand mobile for up to 33% of the time. Oceanic incursions have the potential to boost flow in the western Gulf, however such incursions are transitory, and there is no measurable expression of oceanic water in the sedimentary record. Because of their association with prolonged periods of calm weather, the incursions are unlikely to accompany storm events, where their cumulative effect might be important for sediment transport. Near-bottom currents resulting from oceanic incursion may reinforce peak tides inside the Gulf by up to 2–4 cm s⁻¹. Enhancement of prevailing water motions occurs during periods of extreme weather. During cyclone Drena (January 1997), measured flow speeds in Jellicoe Channel reached 48 cm s⁻¹. Furthermore, the disturbance generated large waves that stirred bottom sediments down to over 100 m water depth. Such events are probably the major agent of sediment redistribution in the Hauraki Gulf. The net effect of storm and calm weather currents is to move sediment across the outer to middle shelf where, in the western and central Gulf it accumulates, and in the eastern Gulf it escapes eastward via Colville Channel.     

Modelling of waves and currents around submerged breakwaters

Recent experimental data collected during the DELOS project are used to validate two approaches for simulating waves and currents in the vicinity of submerged breakwaters.The first approach is a phase-averaged method in which a wave model is used to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses, while a flow model (2-dimensional depth averaged or quasi-3D) is used to calculate the resulting wave driven currents. The second approach is a phase resolving method in which a high order 2DH-Boussinesq-type model is used to calculate the waves and flow.The models predict wave heights that are comparable to measurements if the wave breaking sub-model is properly tuned for dissipation over the submerged breakwater. It is shown that the simulated flow pattern using both approaches is qualitatively similar to that observed in the experiments. Furthermore, the phase-resolving model shows good agreement between measured and simulated instantaneous surface elevations in wave flume tests.     

日照港西部海域海底地形与表层沉积特征

利用单波束测深仪和蚌式取样器进行了日照石臼港扩建码头西侧约50km~2海域1:2 000~1:10 000的水深地形测绘和底质分析工作。调查结果表明,日照港西部海域可分4个水深区,其地形和沉积特征如下:1)航道区,浅水航道区等深线平行于码头岸线,水深11m,经过疏浚已形成向南倾斜的四级阶梯地形,疏浚中心处水深24m。航道区底质以分选中等的砾砂为主;2)港池区,水深6 m,等深线与港池岸线平行,水深向南渐增,海底地形平坦,坡降比3‰。底质以分选较好的粉砂和砂质粉砂为主,近岸有少量分选较差的泥质砂质砾;3)涛雒-付疃河口区,水下三角洲地形明显,5m以浅等深线呈弧形向东南方向凸出,坡降比最大可达14.2‰,底质类型为分选极好的砂和粉砂质砂;4)浅海区,海底地形平坦,平均坡降比1.9‰,6~10m等深线呈NE-SW向平行向外海增大,近南扩码头端向东偏转,底质类型为分选好的砂质粉砂和粉砂,并呈平行于海岸线向深水区呈粗-细-粗的带状分布。底质类型分布与水深条件基本吻合,但深水区出现的底质粗化现象,分析认为可能与南扩码头的挑流作用有关,海底沉积物呈向南运移趋势。     

Mapping an aggregate extraction site off the Eastern English Channel: A methodology in support of monitoring and management

Each year approximately 23–28 million tonnes of sand and gravel are removed from offshore sediments around England and Wales. This study was located in a licensed marine aggregate extraction site off Shoreham in the Eastern English Channel (EEC thereafter). Results from the multibeam survey showed the presence of dredged pits created by suction hopper dredging and elongated furrows created by trailer suction hopper dredging in the area where sand and gravel had been excavated. Electronic Monitoring System (EMS) contained the dredging intensity recorded annually at the site; this information was combined with particle size data providing interpreted maps, which informed the status of the sediments at the site.     

Some problems on dynamical sedimentology in sea area near Huanghe Seaport

In this paper, two problems on dynamical sedimentology in the sea area near the Huanghe(Yellow) River Seaport are studied. Firstly, with synchronously observed data of bed-load trap and winds, starting and transporting dynamical mechanism of sediments on the intertidal shoal is analysed and studied. It is considered that starting and diffusing of sediments on the intertidal shoal near the Huanghe Seaport are controlled by waves and their surf currents. Secondly, with the help of data observed through observation concentration of suspended sediments, current velocity and wave height, starting and diffusing dynamical mechanism of sediments on the seabed near the Huanghe Seaport are analysed. It is considered that at a water depth of about 15 metres, starting and diffusing of the sediments are mainly controlled by tidal currents and at 5 metres or on the intertidal shoal by waves. At about 10 metres, their effects are rather similar.     

海口湾人工填海前后冲淤演变数值模拟

为了解近年的人工填海工程主要包括南海明珠项目、葫芦岛、秀英港扩建工程等人工填海工程对海口湾冲淤变化的影响,基于FVCOM海洋数值模型,对研究区人工填海前后潮流场、波浪场及冲淤变化进行了数值模拟。人工填海后,综合各条件下的冲淤情况,海口湾受潮流和波浪共同作用大部分区域处于淤积状态,年淤积量预测值为0.1~1.0m;白沙角等局部区域处于侵蚀状态,年冲刷量预测值为0.1~0.3m;受海口湾人工填海工程的影响,秀英港航道的水动力条件减弱,对通航条件改善有利,需加强航道的水深监测和定时的清淤工作;在南海明珠人工岛南侧波影区泥沙堆积会形成向海的舌状的突出体,其两侧海岸形成侵蚀后退带,需人工补沙等措施以保证岸线稳定。     

长江河口南港河段沙波观测研究

利用Sea Bat 7125多波束测深系统,对长江河口南港河段进行了沙波的高分辨率观测研究。结果表明:南港河段沙波发育广泛。统计的沙波中,最小波高0.12m,最大波高达3.12m;最小波长为3.12m,最大波长为127.89m。其中,南港上段、南港中段主航道、南港下段沙波陡坡有向海倾斜的趋势,而南港中段主航道南侧沙波陡坡有向陆倾斜的趋势。     

台湾浅滩海底沙波精细特征、分类与分布规律

迄今由于缺乏高精度的实测水深数据,对台湾浅滩沙波的精细结构缺乏详细的阐述。本文基于多波束实测资料研究台湾浅滩沙波形态的精细特征及其分布规律。多波束探测结果显示:研究区沙波的平均波高达到13.5m,沙波波峰处水深为20.42m,沙波平均波高约为水深的2/3,沙波的波长大多数处于500~700m之间。研究区内主要发育3种类型的沙波,即摆线型沙波、余弦型沙波和双峰型沙波。研究区西部主要发育双峰型沙波,中部则主要发育余弦型和摆线型沙波,而东部主要发育摆线型沙波,整个区域以摆线型沙波为主。海平面波动、台湾海峡复杂的水动力条件以及台湾岛丰富的山溪河流携带的大量沉积物进入海峡,对浅滩区的沙波具有强烈的改造作用。