Long-term trend analysis of wave characteristics in the Bohai Sea based on interpolated ERA5 wave reanalysis from 1950 to 2020

Reasonably understanding of the long-term wave characteristics is very crucial for the ocean engineering. A feedforward neural network is operated for interpolating ERA5 wave reanalysis in this study, which embodies a detailed record from 1950 onwards. The spatiotemporal variability of wave parameters in the Bohai Sea, especially the significant wave height (SWH), is presented in terms of combined wave, wind wave and swell by employing the 71 years (1950–2020) of interpolated ERA5 reanalysis. Annual mean SWH decreases at ?0.12 cm/a estimated by Theil-Sen estimator and 95th percentile SWH reflecting serve sea states decreases at ?0.20 cm/a. Inter-seasonal analysis shows SWH of wind wave has steeper decreasing trend with higher slopes than that of swell, especially in summer and winter, showing the major decrease may attribute to the weakening of monsoon. The inner Bohai Sea reveals a general decreasing trend while the intersection connecting with the Yellow Sea has the lower significance derived by Mann-Kendall test. Meanwhile, 95th percentile SWH decreases at a higher rate while with a lower significance in comparison with the mean state. The frequencies of mean wave directions in sub-sector are statistically calculated to find the seasonal prevailing directions. Generally, the dominant directions in summer and winter are south and north. A similar variation concerning to SWH, the trend of the mean wave period is provided, which also shows a decrease for decades.     

Features of marine wind fields over New Zealand waters from ERS‐1 scatterometer data.

Wind data from the ERS‐1 scatterometer have been processed for New Zealand waters. These show spatial features of marine wind fields which have previously been difficult to resolve using conventional surface‐based measurements. Winds across the western access to Cook Strait, delineated by a corridor between Farewell Spit and western Taranaki, were analysed and profiles of wind stress extracted. These show characteristic structures for south‐easterly events in which the stress steadily increases from Farewell Spit towards the Taranaki Coast. In westerly or north‐westerly events the structure is more uniform. The mean stress across this corridor has been compared to that calculated from surface‐based measurements at Farewell Spit and the Maui‐A oil and gas production platform off Cape Egmont. The Farewell spit data lead to underestimates of the stress, which partially reconciles previous attempts to model wind‐driven currents off the west coast of the South Island from these data. In these the currents were underestimated. The Maui‐A data are unbiased in westerly events but give overestimates in southeasterly winds. An improved estimate of the mean stress can be derived from using a combination of wind data from these two stations.     

利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析台湾岛周边海域巨浪和大风特征

卫星高度计实现了对全球性或区域性的海洋参量的实时监测,TOPEX卫星高度计提供了迄今为止时间序列最长、数据质量最高的全球海面风速和有效波高的同步观测资料。利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料,分析了有效波高4m以上的巨浪在台湾岛周边海域的时空分布特征,结果表明台湾岛周边海域巨浪的分布具有明显的季节特征。每年平均有效波高最大值大多数出现在夏季,春季是1a中有效波高最小的季节,而秋季和冬季是巨浪出现频率最高的季节。波高大于6m的巨浪大都出现在台湾岛东部及东北部海域,在南部海域出现较少。     

The low-frequency variance of the ocean surface wave field in the area of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current

The low-frequency variance of the surface wave in the area of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) and its correlation with the antarctic circumpolar wave (ACW) are focused on. The analysis of the series of 44 a significant wave height (SWH) interannual anomalies reveals that the SWH anomalies have a strong periodicity of about 4-5 a and this signal propagates eastward obviously from 1985 to 1995, which needs about 8 a to complete a mimacircle around the earth. The method of empirical orthogonal function (EOF) is used to analyze the filtered monthly SWH anomalies to study the spatio-temporal distributions and the propagation characteristics of the low-frequency signals in the wave field. Both the dominant wavenumber-2 pattern in space and the propagation feature in the south Pacific, the south Atlantic and the south Indian ocean show strong consistency with the ACW. So it is reasonable to conclude that the ACW signal also exists in the wave field. The ACW is important for the climate in the Southern Ocean, so it is worth to pay more attention to the large-scale effect of the surface wave, which may also be important for climate studies.     

Ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand

Nearly 17 years wave records from deep water and shore‐based stations are used to describe the ocean wave characteristics around New Zealand. The wave environment is dominated by west and southwest swell and storm waves generated in the temperate latitude belt of westerly winds. As a result, the west and south coasts are exposed, high energy shores, the east coast is a high energy lee shore, and the northern coast from North Cape to East Cape is a low energy lee shore sheltered from these winds and waves. South of New Zealand, wave energies are extremely high; the prevailing deep water wave is 3.5–4.5 m high and has a 10–12 s period, with a slight increase in wave heights in winter.

The west coast wave environment is mixed, and consists of locally generated westerly and southerly storm waves, and swell waves generated to the south. The prevailing wave is t.0–3.0 m and 6–8 s period. There are no strong seasonal rhythms, only shorter period cycles of wave height (5 day) associated with similar quasi‐rhythmic cycles in the weather.

The east coast also has a mixed wave climate with southerly swells, originating in the westerlies south of New Zealand, and locally generated southerly and northerly storm waves. The prevailing wave is 0.5–2.0 m and 7–11 s period. A short period rhythmic cycle, similar to that on the west coast, is superimposed on a weak seasonal cycle. The seasonal, cycle results from an increase in the frequency of local northerly waves in summer.

The prevailing wave on the north coast is a northeasterly, 0.5–1.5 m high and 5–7 s period. Subtropical disturbances and southward‐moving depressions generate a mixed wave environment and a possible seasonally reflecting a winter increase in. storminess.     

使用参数化初猜测谱算法提取VV极化Sentinel-1 SAR图像的海浪要素并与ECMWF再分析数据以及浮标数据进行验证对比

The purpose is to study the accuracy of ocean wave parameters retrieved from C-band VV-polarization Sentinel-1Synthetic Aperture Radar(SAR) images, including both significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period(MWP), which are both calculated from a SAR-derived wave spectrum. The wind direction from in situ buoys is used and then the wind speed is retrieved by using a new C-band geophysical model function(GMF) model,denoted as C-SARMOD. Continuously, an algorithm parameterized first-guess spectra method(PFSM) is employed to retrieve the SWH and the MWP by using the SAR-derived wind speed. Forty–five VV-polarization Sentinel-1 SAR images are collected, which cover the in situ buoys around US coastal waters. A total of 52 subscenes are selected from those images. The retrieval results are compared with the measurements from in situ buoys. The comparison performs good for a wind retrieval, showing a 1.6 m/s standard deviation(STD) of the wind speed, while a 0.54 m STD of the SWH and a 2.14 s STD of the MWP are exhibited with an acceptable error.Additional 50 images taken in China's seas were also implemented by using the algorithm PFSM, showing a 0.67 m STD of the SWH and a 2.21 s STD of the MWP compared with European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF) reanalysis grids wave data. The results indicate that the algorithm PFSM works for the wave retrieval from VV-polarization Sentinel-1 SAR image through SAR-derived wind speed by using the new GMF C-SARMOD.     

大西洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年10月-1998年12月连续75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南北大西洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究，统计分析了大西洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，大西洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与大西洋的平均有效波高、气候的地理分布以及大气活动分布特征和变化规律相一致。     

Distribution characteristics of wave energy in the Zhe-Min coastal area

A 10-year（2003–2012） hindcast was conducted to study the wave field in the Zhe-Min coastal area（Key Area OE-W2） located off Zhejiang and Fujian provinces of China. Forced by the wind field from a weather research and forecasting model（WRF）, high-resolution wave modelling using the SWAN was carried out in the study area. The simulated wave fields show a good agreement with observations. Using the simulation results, we conducted statistical analysis of wave power density in terms of spatial distr...     

Sperm whales in the western south pacific

The distribution and movements of sperm whales, Physeter catodon Linn., in the western South Pacific (latitudes 30–70° S, longitudes 150E‐150°W) are examined. An undetermined number of catches by nineteenth century American whaleships, 9,720 catches by pelagic fleets in 1961–70, and 427 sightings in 1967 are analysed and correlated with oceanographic data from Australian and New Zealand surveys.

The proportion of females decreases southwards, abruptly at about latitude 44° S in the Tasman Sea, and at about 46–47° S east of New Zealand. Virtually no females occur south of 50° S. The male population density also decreases southwards: the density between 50–70° S appears to be less than 25% of that between 30–50° S. Sperm whales also appear to be less abundant in the eastern part of the region away from the New Zealand plateau, but more data are required.

The pattern of distribution and its seasonal changes probably correlate with vertical temperature gradients of about 5°c in the upper 100 m of water, i.e., optimal conditions for squid schooling. Catch per unit effort in autumn is lower than in spring. A northward population shift in autumn is inferred, based on reduction of available food species and probable temperature tolerances of calves, most of which are born in February and March, towards the end of the southern summer. Some males overwinter in areas where suitable gradients persist, e.g., around the Chatham Islands.

Possibly the summer surface temperature maxima south of the South Island are low enough to inhibit the passage of breeding schools with calves from one side of the New Zealand archipelago to the other. Sperm whales do not pass through Cook Strait normally. Thus, unless considerable mixing of stocks occurs north of New Zealand in winter, there may be two “unit stocks”, one oscillating seasonally between the central Tasman Sea and the Fiji‐Tonga region, and another (probably smaller) between the east coast of the South Island and the region just north of the Chatham Islands.     

多源卫星高度计海浪资料在中国近海的验证及应用

Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height(SWH) have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China's coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square(RMS) of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum(0.97) and the RMS difference was the minimum(0.28 m) in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang(Yangtze River) Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum(0.32 m) in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China's offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China's offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6–2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas: the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%–6%. Extreme waves occurred most frequently in autumn and rarely in spring. The 100-year return wave height was greatest from the northwest Pacific seas extending to southeast of the Ryukyu Islands(9–12 m), and the northeast of the South China Sea and the East China Sea had the second largest wave heights(7–11 m). For inshore areas, the100-year return wave height was the greatest in the waters off the east coast of Guangdong Province and the south coast of Zhejiang Province(7–8 m), whereas it was at a minimum in the area from the Changjiang Estuary to the Bohai Sea(4–6 m). An investigation of sampling effects indicates that when using the 1°×1°grid dataset, although the combination of nine altimeters obviously enhanced the time and space coverage of sampling, the accuracy of statistical results, particularly extreme values obtained from the dataset, still suffered from undersampling problems because the time sampling percent in each 1°×1°grid cell was always less than33%.     

Wave height and period at Timaru,New Zealand

Wave data are presented for Timaru, New Zealand, based on instrumental records collected between October 1981 and October 1982. Significant wave height ranged from 0.32–3.33 m with a mean value of 0.97 m. Significant wave period ranged from 5–17 s with a mean value of 10 s. The maximum wave height recorded was 6.30 m. A marked variation was found between summer and winter conditions. Winter months displayed a much greater range of wave conditions, significant heights were generally higher and significant periods longer.     

黄海海浪天气时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用第三代海浪数值模式(SWAN)系统研究了黄海海浪有效波高的天气时间尺度变化的时空分布特征和相关动力学过程。结果表明黄海海浪有效波高的天气变化强度(S_W)具有显著的时间变化特征和空间分布特征。其多年平均值在黄海的中东部存在由南向北延伸的高值区,同时向两侧近海区域逐渐减小。S_W在冬季最大,夏季最小。从11月到翌年5月,S_W月气候态平均值的空间分布与其年平均值的空间分布类似;从6月到同年10月,S_W的月气候态平均值在黄海与东海的分界处存在较强的由黄海到东海的空间梯度。进一步分析表明黄海海域的S_W以风浪占主,涌浪的贡献远小于风浪贡献。数值实验表明,黄海海浪有效波高的天气时间尺度变化主要是由大于天气变化周期的海面风强迫通过四波非线性相互作用产生的。     

基于多源融合卫星高度计观测数据的南海海浪有效波高的季节变化研究

The seasonal variability of the significant wave height(SWH) in the South China Sea(SCS) is investigated using the most up-to-date gridded daily altimeter data for the period of September 2009 to August 2015. The results indicate that the SWH shows a uniform seasonal variation in the whole SCS, with its maxima occurring in December/January and minima in May. Throughout the year, the SWH in the SCS is the largest around Luzon Strait(LS) and then gradually decreases southward across the basin. The surface wind speed has a similar seasonal variation, but with different spatial distributions in most months of the year. Further analysis indicates that the observed SWH variations are dominated by swell. The wind sea height, however, is much smaller. It is the the largest in two regions southwest of Taiwan Island and southeast of Vietnam Coast during the northeasterly monsoon, while the largest in the central/southern SCS during the southwesterly monsoon. The extreme wave condition also experiences a significant seasonal variation. In most regions of the northern and central SCS, the maxima of the 99 th percentile SWH that are larger than the SWH theoretically calculated with the wind speed for the fully developed seas mainly appear in August–November, closely related to strong tropical cyclone activities.Compared with previous studies, it is also implied that the wave climate in the Pacific Ocean plays an important role in the wave climate variations in the SCS.     

利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析东中国海的风、浪场特征

利用TOPEX卫星高度计和日本气象厅浮标观测资料,对东中国海的有效波高和风速进行比较,分析了卫星高度计资料的有效性。利用有效波高和风速的3种概率密度函数分布,结合TOPEX卫星高度计资料,并采用最大似然方法对统计分布参数进行估计,结果表明,有效波高的对数-正态概率密度分布与观测资料的直方图在有效波高的整个范围内符合较好,风速的直方图与Weibul概率密度分布符合较好。同时,分析了有效波高大于4 m的巨浪在东中国海的时空分布特征,表明巨浪多出现在冬、秋两季,平均有效波高最大值出现在夏季,且主要分布在东中国海东南部。     

Extreme significant wave height climate in the Gulf of Guinea

This article investigates spatio-temporal trends for different return periods of extreme significant wave height (SWH) in the Gulf of Guinea (GG), northeastern tropical Atlantic Ocean, based on a 37-year (1980–2016) wave hindcast. High-resolution reanalysis windfield datasets were used to force the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III. The wave hindcast information was validated using data gathered from the US National Data Buoy Center. The model performance was adequate. In a spatial analysis, the trends were less than 0.3 m decade^?1 in all parts of the GG, and were increasingly positive westwards, extending to the far western part of the GG; trends below 0.01 m decade^?1 dominated in the eastern part and some areas of the northern part of the gulf. Temporal analysis showed that the trends were negative in all cases. Spatio-temporal trends in the return periods for the 99th-percentile wave height were generally weak. Also, trends in the yearly, seasonal and monthly means of extreme SWH all generally increased from east to west in the GG. Furthermore, temporal trend analysis showed that extreme SWH exhibited an increasing trend of 0.0041 m y^–1 throughout the 37-year period; by season, it exhibited a declining trend of ?0.0005 m y^–1 in winter, and an increasing trend of 0.0048 m y^?1 in summer. The observed increasing positive trend of extreme SWH westward in the GG, however, suggests an increasing storminess towards the western part of the gulf, with potential implications for coastal flooding and erosion, and consequences for coastal structures.     

Wind‐wave development across a large shallow intertidal estuary: A case study of Manukau Harbour,New Zealand

Locally generated wind‐waves in estuaries play an important role in the sediment dynamics and the transport of biota. Wave growth in estuaries is complicated by tidally varying depth, fetch, and currents. Wave development was studied at six sites along a transect across Manukau Harbour, New Zealand, which is a large intertidal estuary with a tidal range of up to 4 m. Three meteorological masts were also deployed across the measurement transect to measure wave forcing by the wind. A spatial variation in wind speed by up to a factor of 2 was observed which has a significant effect on wave development at short fetches. The wind variation can be explained by the extreme change in surface roughness at the upwind land‐water boundary. The tidally varying depth results in non‐stationary wave development. At the long fetch sites wave development is dictated by the tidally varying depth with peak frequencies continuing to decrease after high water, whereas wave height is attenuated by bottom friction. The non‐dimensional energy and peak frequency parameters commonly used to describe wave growth, clearly exhibit depth limiting effects, but with wider scatter than in previous studies in simpler environments. The peak frequency predictions of Young & Verhagen (1996a) fit our data well. However, the wide variability of energy limits the usefulness of standard growth prediction curves in such situations, and highlights the requirement for a validated, shallow‐water numerical model.     

中国HY-2卫星雷达高度计有效波高真实性检验

Chinese Haiyang-2(HY-2) satellite is the first Chinese marine dynamic environment satellite. The dual-frequency(Ku and C band) radar altimeter onboard HY-2 has been working effective to provide operational significant wave height(SWH) for more than three years(October 1, 2011 to present).We validated along-track Ku-band SWH data of HY-2 satellite against National Data Buoy Center(NDBC) in-situ measurements over a time period of three years from October 1, 2011 to September 30, 2014, the root mean square error(RMSE) and mean bias of HY-2SWH is 0.38 m and(–0.13±0.35) m, respectively. We also did cross validation against Jason-2 altimeter SWH data,the RMSE and the mean bias is 0.36 m and(–0.22±0.28) m, respectively. In order to compare the statistical results between HY-2 and Jason-2 satellite SWH data, we validated the Jason-2 satellite radar altimeter along-track Ku-band SWH data against NDBC measurements using the same method. The results demonstrate the validation method in this study is scientific and the RMSE and mean bias of Jason-2 SWH data is 0.26 m and(0.00±0.26) m,respectively. We also validated both HY-2 and Jason-2 SWH data every month, the mean bias of Jason-2 SWH data almost equaled to zero all the time, while the mean bias of HY-2 SWH data was no less than –0.31 m before April2013 and dropped to zero after that time. These results indicate that the statistical results for HY-2 altimeter SWH are reliable and HY-2 altimeter along-track SWH data were steady and of high quality in the last three years. The results also indicate that HY-2 SWH data have greatly been improved and have the same accuracy with Jason-2SWH data after April, 2013. SWH data provided by HY-2 satellite radar altimeter are useful and acceptable for ocean operational applications.     

Long-term variation of storm surge-associated waves in the Bohai Sea

When investigating the long-term variation of wave characteristics as associated with storm surges in the Bohai Sea,the Simulating Waves Nearshore(SWAN)model and Advanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC)model were coupled to simulate 32 storm surges between 1985 and 2014.This simulation was validated by reproducing three actual wave processes,showing that the simulated significant wave height(SWH)and mean wave period agreed well with the actual measurements.In addition,the long-term variations in SWH,pattems in SWH extremes along the Bohai Sea coast,the 100-year retum period SWH extreme distribution,and waves conditional probability distribution were calculated and analyzed.We find that the trend of SWH extremes in most of the coastal stations was negative,among which the largest trend was-0.03 m/a in the western part of Liaodong Bay.From the 100-year return period of the SWH distribution calculated in the Gumbel method,we find that the SWH extremes associated with storm surges decreased gradually from the center of the Bohai Sea to the coast.In addition,the joint probability of wave and surge for the entire Bohai Sea in 100-year return period was determined by the Gumbel logistic method.We therefore,assuming a minimum surge of one meter across the entire Bohai Sea,obtained the spatial SWH distribution.The conclusions of this study are significant for offshore and coastal engineering design.     

波浪骑士数据在高度计有效波高检验中的再处理

以2011年10～11月南海现场试验得到的9次波浪骑士测量数据,进行波浪骑士再处理与默认计算结果比对。比对结果表明两者平均误差为0.16m,均方根误差为0.32m,分析产生误差的原因在于波浪骑士默认计算有效波高时间段的中心与卫星过境时间不统一和未进行数据质量控制。研究表明在卫星高度计有效波高产品检验中,波浪骑士测量的有效波高需要进行再处理,以达到减少卫星高度计有效波高检验误差的目的。     

1988-2002年黄海和渤海风浪后报

本文对黄海和渤海风浪开展长期后报实验,时间范围覆盖1988至2002年,并分析相应的区域波候特征。首先,模式输出的月平均有效波高和卫星数据比对一致。其次,我们讨论了气候态月平均有效波高和平均波周期的时空分布特征。有效波高和平均波周期的气候态空间分布都呈现出西北-东南、或由近岸向深水区增加的趋势,这种空间的分布特征和局地的风强迫和水深密切相关。同时,海浪参数的季节变化也较显著。进一步,我们统计分析了风场和有效波高的极值,给出并揭示了黄海和渤海多年一遇有效波高的空间结构,并讨论了有效波高极值和风强迫极值之间的联系。