On convergence behaviour and numerical accuracy in stationary SWAN simulations of nearshore wind wave spectra

Irregular convergence behaviour is frequently encountered when computations of wave spectra are performed by means of the third-generation wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore). Numerical accuracy is another key issue. The present paper proposes two techniques that improve the convergence and accuracy properties of SWAN in the prediction of stationary wave conditions in the nearshore zone. The first is an under-relaxation approach in which the extent of updates during the iteration process, which underlies a route to steady state, is made proportional to wave frequency. This method complies with the principle of decreasing time scales at higher frequencies, which is inherent to the evolution of wind waves. As a result, the improved SWAN model is free from numerical restrictions to spectral shape in the non-equilibrium range. The second proposed method is a new termination criterion associated with the rate of model convergence, by which the identification of the point of convergence is improved. The capabilities of these methods are demonstrated by simulations of idealized cases and a field application featuring fetch- and depth-limited wave growth. It is concluded that the proposed termination criterion improves numerical accuracy and that the action density limiter, as currently used in SWAN, has minimal negative influence on stationary model results.     

Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water

The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data.     

SWAN模型模拟风浪场侧边界失真范围研究

鉴于SWAN模型存在着不能有效地模拟固壁边界附近风浪场的缺点,即在边界附近所模拟的波要素存在失真的现象,研究了在不同水深、风速和风向情况下模型侧边界附近波要素的失真范围,并对计算结果进行了详细的分析。结果表明水深、风速和风向对于侧边界附近波要素的失真范围具有不同的影响,即在风速一定的情况下,失真范围随着水深的增大而增大;水深一定的情况下,失真范围随着风速的增大而减小、随着风向的增大而增大。在利用SWAN模型模拟计算近岸或内陆湖泊风浪场时,必须采取适当的措施以减少实际计算域侧边界附近计算结果的失真范围。     

水动力时空变化对近岸风浪演化的影响——以渤海湾西南岸为例

采用SWAN模型和ADCIRC模型建立了风浪、潮汐和水流联合作用的耦合数值模式,并通过渤海湾西南岸实测资料对该模式进行了验证。利用该模式分析了近岸区水位和流场时空变化对风浪模拟结果的影响,计算结果表明水位变化对近岸区风浪模拟结果有显著影响,特别是中等大风过程高潮位时波高受水位影响的变化幅值可达0.5m以上,且水深越浅影响越大。但在岸滩平缓的近岸海域由于流速、流向的时空变化不太剧烈,流场作用和波浪辐射应力作用对波浪场的影响都基本可以忽略。在模拟近岸风浪过程时,应选用耦合模式。     

Numerical investigation of ocean waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China

The influences of the three types of reanalysis wind fields on the simulation of three typhoon waves occurred in 2015 in offshore China were numerically investigated. The typhoon wave model was based on the simulating waves nearshore model (SWAN), in which the wind fields for driving waves were derived from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Re-Analysis-Interim (ERA-interim), the National Centers for Environmental Prediction climate forecast system version 2 (CFSv2) and cross-calibrated multi-platform (CCMP) datasets. Firstly, the typhoon waves generated during the occurrence of typhoons Chan-hom (1509), Linfa (1510) and Nangka (1511) in 2015 were simulated by using the wave model driven by ERA-interim, CFSv2 and CCMP datasets. The numerical results were validated using buoy data and satellite observation data, and the simulation results under the three types of wind fields were in good agreement with the observed data. The numerical results showed that the CCMP wind data was the best in simulating waves overall, and the wind speeds pertaining to ERA-Interim and CCMP were notably smaller than those observed near the typhoon centre. To correct the accuracy of the wind fields, the Holland theoretical wind model was used to revise and optimize the wind speed pertaining to the CCMP near the typhoon centre. The results indicated that the CCMP wind-driven SWAN model could appropriately simulate the typhoon waves generated by three typhoons in offshore China, and the use of the CCMP/Holland blended wind field could effectively improve the accuracy of typhoon wave simulations.     

寒潮影响下江苏沿海风浪场数值模拟研究

基于第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型SWAN,建立自西北太平洋嵌套至东中国海、江苏沿海的三重嵌套模型,对2010年12月12日至15日江苏沿海寒潮大风引起的风浪过程进行了数值模拟研究。利用西北太平洋和江苏沿海实测数据对模型进行了验证,结果表明SWAN嵌套模型能较好地模拟江苏沿海寒潮风浪场的时空分布。通过响水站实测数据对江苏沿海底摩擦系数进行了率定,研究表明选取Collins拖曳理论中摩擦因数C_f=0.001时,有效波高模拟误差相对较小。寒潮风浪场的特征分析表明,有效波高分布与风场分布基本一致,寒潮风浪在江苏沿海北部影响较为显著,辐射沙洲附近由于其特殊地形影响相对较小。     

SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响

本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。     

A note on the derivation of wave action balance equation in frequency space

In this paper the wave action balance equation in terms of frequency-direction spectrum is derived.A theoretical formulation is presented to generate an invariant frequency space to replace the varying wavenumber space through a Jacobian transformation in the wave action balance equation.The physical properties of the Jacobian incorporating the effects of water depths are discussed.The results provide a theoretical basis of wave action balance equations and ensure that the wave balance equations used in the SWAN or other numerical models are correct.It should be noted that the Jacobian is omitted in the wave action balance equations which are identical to a conventional action balance equation.     

Evaluation of a high-resolution wave hindcast model SWAN for the West Mediterranean basin

This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient C_ds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with C_ds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.     

WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟台风浪场的结果分析

利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟2007年8月墨西哥湾飓风迪安的波浪场.将QSCAT/NCEP混合风场与台风模型风场合成为背景风场.修改WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套接口以使WAVEWATCH和SWAN2种海浪预报模式能够有效地嵌套运行.利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟飓风迪安的波浪场,采用浮标资料检验模拟结果,以验证WAVEWATCH和SWAN模拟的准确性及修改后嵌套接口的可用性.结果表明,修改嵌套接口之后模式运行平稳,2种模式的结果与浮标及高度计观测数据均基本吻合.嵌套模拟结果好于单纯使用WAVEWATCH模拟的结果,体现了利用2种模式嵌套模拟台风浪场的科学性.     

西北太平洋夏季海浪数值模拟研究

为了解第三代海浪模式SWAN在西北太平洋海浪模拟效果,利用2013年7月期间Jason-2卫星高度计观测资料,通过计算模拟值和观测值的绝对误差、均方根误差和进行逐日统计、分级统计、一次台风过程的统计,对FNL风场资料驱动SWAN模式的西北太平洋海浪数值模拟有效波高进行了检验。检验结果表明,模式对较小波高模拟效果较好,模拟波高与实测值误差在可接受的范围之内,可满足业务化预报的要求,但对较大波高的模拟存在一定的误差,且驱动风场的精细化水平直接影响模拟效果。     

Wind-wave variability in a shallow tidal sea—Spectral modelling combined with neural network methods

In this paper the wind-wave variability in the tidal basins of the German Wadden Sea is modelled with combined numerical and neural-network (NN) methods. First, the wave propagation and transformation in the study area are modelled with the state-of-the-art third-generation spectral wave model SWAN. The ability of SWAN to accurately reproduce the phenomena of interest in nonstationary conditions governed by highly variable winds, water levels and currents is shown by comparisons of the modelled and measured mean wave parameters at four stations. The principal component analysis of the SWAN results is then used to reveal the dominating spatial patterns in the data and to reduce their dimensionality, thus enabling an efficient and relatively straightforward NN modelling of mean wave parameters in the whole study area. It is shown that the data produced with the approach developed in this work have statistical properties (discrete probability distributions of the mean wave parameters etc.) very close to the properties of the data obtained with SWAN, thus proving that this approach can be used as a reliable tool for wind wave simulation in coastal areas, complementary to (often computationally demanding) spectral wave models.     

Effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model

The effect of the drag coefficient on a typhoon wave model is investigated.Drag coefficients for Pingtan Island are derived from the progress of nine typhoons using COARE 3.0 software.The wind parameters are obtained using the Weather Research and Forecasting model.The simulation of wind agrees well with observations.Typhoon wave fields are then simulated using the third-generation wave model SWAN.The wave model includes exponential and linear growths of the wind input,which determine the wave-growth mode.A triple triangular mesh is adopted with spatial resolution as fine as 100 m nearshore.The SWAN model performs better when using the new drag coefficient rather than the original coefficient.     

太湖风浪场的计算与比较

首先探讨了浅水风浪数值模型—SWAN模型应用于模拟内陆湖泊风浪生成和传播变形时的特点。该模型存在不能有效地模拟近固壁边界处风浪场的缺点,以能正确地模拟湖区的风浪场和节约计算时间为原则,确定了计算范围。对太湖进行了风场和风浪场的现场观测。分别利用规范公式和SWAN模型两种方法、根据观测和预报的风场计算了湖区的有效波高,并将计算结果和现场观测值进行了详细比较。结果表明基于观测的风场,利用两种方法所计算的太湖风浪场的精度基本相当;在根据观测的风场、利用SWAN模型计算内陆湖泊的风浪场时,需要精心选择恰当的风场;在根据预报的风场预报湖区风浪场时,SWAN模型的精度要高于规范公式的精度。     

台风“灿鸿”影响下海浪的数值模拟研究

台风是影响中国黄东海的强天气现象,其引起的强风、巨浪和台风增水严重威胁着沿海地区人民的生命与财产安全。本文以海浪模式SWAN（Simulating Waves Nearshore）与区域海洋模式ROMS（Regional Ocean Modeling System）为基础,构建了中国黄东海海域在201509号台风“灿鸿”影响下的海浪-海洋耦合模式。通过浮标与Jason-2高度计有效波高数据验证了模式结果的准确性。进行了敏感性实验分析,对比耦合（ROMS+SWAN）与非耦合（SWAN）下以及使用不同地形数据（ETOPO1、ETOPO2、GEBCO）、不同物理参数化方案（风能输入、白冠耗散、底摩擦耗散）下的模拟结果差异。结果发现在射阳与前三岛浮标处,使用GEBCO地形数据（15弧秒间隔）下的模拟效果更好且稳定。在空间分布上,台风中心附近的浪流相互作用显著,在其前进方向右侧表现为耦合的有效波高值低于非耦合有效波高值,差值最高可达1米。选择不同风输入与耗散项方案时的模拟差异主要发生在最大波高处,选择不同的风能输入与白冠耗散项方案带来的差异接近0.4米,而底摩擦项方案选择不同带来的差异接近1米。因而在模拟实际的海况时,需要综合考虑这些因素带来的影响,才能达到SWAN海浪模型最好的海浪模拟效果。     

Hindcast of the wave conditions along the west Iberian coast

This paper describes the development of a wave prediction system for the west Iberian coast. The implemented wave prediction system is based on two state-of-the-art spectral wave models, WAM for the ocean area and SWAN for the nearshore. However, because of its extended geographical space the SWAN model will include some generation effects in the coarse SWAN simulations, complemented by wave transformation effects near the coast. The system was validated by means of extended hindcast runs in various regions belonging to the continental Portuguese coastal environment, which were compared with buoy data, focusing on the extreme energetic events and both direct comparisons and statistical results are presented.     

利用SWAN模型计算的侧边界附近风浪场的变化特征

鉴于SWAN模型不能有效地模拟侧边界附近的风浪场,详细研究了在不同水深和风速情况下模型侧边界附近波要素,包括波高、周期、波向和波长的变化特征和失真范围。计算结果表明水深和风速的变化对于侧边界附近不同波要素的影响是不同的。在风速一定的情况下,失真范围随着水深的增大而增大。在水深一定的情况下,根据波高、周期和波长的相对误差所计算的失真范围与根据他们的绝对误差所计算的失真范围不同。随着风速的增大,根据相对误差所计算的失真范围减小;而根据绝对误差所计算的失真范围变化不大。随着风速的增大,波向的失真范围减小。研究了在水深变化的水域,包括太湖和淀山湖在内的侧边界附近的风浪场,结果表明如果计算范围不适当扩大确实会导致侧边界附近的风浪场失真。因此在利用SWAN模型模拟计算近岸或内陆湖泊风浪场时,需采取适当的措施以减小计算误差。     

利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套计算珠江口附近海域的风浪场*

基于CCMP(Cross Calibrated Multi-platform)卫星遥感海面风场数据,通过将WAVEWATCH和SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore)模型嵌套的方法,数值模拟了珠江口附近海域的风浪场。将总计10个月的数值模拟的有效波高、波周期和波向分别与相应的观测值进行了定量比较。结果说明,有效波高的平均绝对误差为15.4cm,分散系数SI为0.240,相关系数为0.925;波周期的平均绝对误差为1.9s,分散系数SI为0.433,相关系数为0.636;波向的平均绝对误差为23.9°。计算的波高和波向与观测结果的变化趋势相吻合。由于第三代海浪模式本身的缺陷,导致所计算的波周期偏小。总体说来,本文所采用的数值模式能较好地模拟珠江口附近海域的风浪场。另外,还设计了6个算例以探讨采用不同的计算方法和风场对计算结果精度的影响。结果表明使用本文的数值方法和高精度的CCMP风场确实可以提高计算结果的精度。     

台风浪数值模拟方法比较——以1513号台风“苏迪罗”为例

为减少复杂地形对台风浪数值模拟的干扰,有效优化模拟精度和效果,充分发挥台风浪数值模式在防灾减灾中的作用,文章利用ERA-interim风场驱动模式,以1513号台风"苏迪罗"为例,采用2种方案对其形成的台风浪进行数值模拟,并对二者进行比较。其中,方案(1)为采用WW3模式,方案(2)为采用WW3模式和SWAN模式嵌套。研究结果表明:选取有效波高的模拟值和观测值,根据对散点分布的定性分析以及对相关系数、偏差和均方根误差的定量计算,采用方案(2)的模拟精度更高;通过绘制台风浪场分布图,采用方案(2)对有效波高的动态数值模拟更加明显和准确,尤其对于复杂地形海域的模拟效果更优。因此,在未来的海浪数值模拟中,可参照采用方案(2),即在大区域采用WW3模式,在复杂地形海域嵌套SWAN模式。     

基于WRF-SWAN耦合模式的台风“威马逊”波浪场数值模拟

获取高分辨率的风场数据和气压场数据是精确模拟台风浪的基础,采用经验公式构建台风风场和气压场对海浪模式进行驱动,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以提供高精度的风场、气压场数据。本文基于中尺度大气模式WRF(Weather Research and Forecasting model)和第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore model),构建了南中国海地区大气—海浪实时双向耦合模式,针对超强台风"威马逊"进行数值模拟。将数值模拟结果与现场观测结果及卫星高度计观测结果进行对比验证,验证结果表明,本文建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式在对台风"威马逊"影响下的南中国海台风浪的模拟中展现出较高的模拟精度,揭示了台风风场分布和台风浪分布在空间上的"右偏性"不对称分布特征及其形成机制。基于WRF和SWAN建立的大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式能够准确模拟台风动力过程以及台风浪的时空分布特征,可以推广用于南中国海地区台风浪的模拟分析。