On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach

We develop solutions for the transport of suspended sediment by a single swash event following the collapse of a bore on a plane beach, and we investigate the morphodynamical role that such transport may play. Although the intrinsic asymmetry between uprush and backwash velocities tends to encourage the export of sediment, we find that swash events may be effective in distributing across the swash zone much or all of the sediment mobilised by bore collapse; additionally, settling lag effects may promote a weak onshore movement of sediment. We quantify both effects in terms of the properties of the sediment and of the swash event, and comment on the relationship between our findings and recent field studies of swash zone sediment transport.     

Suspended sediment transport in the swash zone of a dissipative beach

Simultaneous high frequency field measurements of water depth, flow velocity and suspended sediment concentration were made at three fixed locations across the high tide swash and inner surf zones of a dissipative beach. The dominant period of the swash motion was 30–50 s and the results are representative of infragravity swash motion. Suspended sediment concentrations, loads and transport rates in the swash zone were almost one order of magnitude greater than in the inner surf zone. The vertical velocity gradient near the bed and the resulting bed shear stress at the start of the uprush was significantly larger than that at the end of the backwash, despite similar flow velocities. This suggests that the bed friction during the uprush was approximately twice that during the backwash.The suspended sediment profile in the swash zone can be described reasonably well by an exponential shape with a mixing length scale of 0.02–0.03 m. The suspended sediment transport flux measured in the swash zone was related to the bed shear stress through the Shields parameter. If the bed shear stress is derived from the vertical velocity gradient, the proportionality coefficient between shear stress and sediment transport rate is similar for the uprush and the backwash. If the bed shear stress is estimated using the free-stream flow velocity and a constant friction factor, the proportionality factor for the uprush is approximately twice that of the backwash. It is suggested that the uprush is a more efficient transporter of sediment than the backwash, because the larger friction factor during the uprush causes larger bed shear stresses for a given free-stream velocity. This increased transport competency of the uprush is necessary for maintaining the beach, otherwise the comparable strength and greater duration of the backwash would progressively remove sediment from the beach.     

Numerical study on wave-induced filtration flow across the beach face and its effects on swash zone sediment transport

A numerical model, coupling an analysis of beach groundwater flow with an analysis of swash wave motion over a uniform slope, is presented. Model calculations are performed to investigate the variations of swash-induced filtration flows across the beach face for different input parameters. Swash zone sediment transport under the influence of such filtration flow across the beach face is investigated through modification of effective weight of sediment particle and modification of swash boundary layer thickness. These effects are quantified based on a bed load transport model with a modified Shields parameter.     

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

Measurements and modelling of the advection of suspended sediment in the swash zone by solitary waves

Novel laboratory experiments and numerical modelling have been performed to study the advection scales of suspended sediment in the swash zone. An experiment was designed specifically to measure only the sediment picked up seaward of the swash zone and during bore collapse. The advection scales and settling of this sediment were measured during the uprush along a rigid sediment-free beach face by a sediment trap located at varying cross-shore positions. Measurements were made using a number of repeated solitary broken waves or bores. Approximately 25% of the pre-suspended sediment picked up by the bores reaches the mid-swash zone (50% of the horizontal run-up distance), indicating the importance of the sediment advection in the lower swash zone. The pre-suspended sediment is sourced from a region seaward of the shoreline (still water line) which has a width of about 20% of the run-up distance. An Eulerian–Lagrangian numerical model is used to model the advection scales of the suspended sediment. The model resolves the hydrodynamics by solving the non-linear shallow water equations in an Eulerian framework and then solves the advection–diffusion equation for turbulence and suspended sediment in a Lagrangian framework. The model provides good estimates of the measured mass and distribution of sediment advected up the beach face. The results suggest that the correct modelling of turbulence generation prior to and during bore collapse and the advection of the turbulent kinetic energy into the lower swash is important in resolving the contribution of pre-suspended sediment to the net sediment transport in the swash zone.     

Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach

This paper presents numerical simulations and analytical predictions of key aspects of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Simulations of the shoreline displacement based on bore run-up theory are found to give excellent agreement with recent experimental data for regular waves, wave groups and random waves. The theory is used to derive parameters that predict the onset of swash saturation and the spectral characteristics of the saturated shoreline motion. These parameters are again in good agreement with the measured laboratory data and are also consistent with previous experimental data. Simulation of irregular wave run-up using a series of overlapping monochromatic swash events is found to reproduce typical features of swash oscillations and can accurately describe both the low and high frequency spectral characteristics of the swash zone. In particular, the low frequency components of the run-up can be modelled directly using a sequence of incident short wave bores, with no direct long wave input to the numerical simulations. This suggests that wave groupiness must be accounted for when modelling shoreline oscillations.     

烟台套子湾海滩泥沙运动方向研究

采用筛析法分析了套子湾中滩面上66个表层样品的粒度。结果表明:套子湾海滩沉积物为中、细砂,为典型海滩砂。标准偏差较小,分选较好至好;频率曲线呈近正态分布,稍呈负偏;峰度中等至较窄。平均粒径和标准偏差由夹河口向东西两侧海滩变小,由于突堤的阻挡,海滩沿岸沉积物在突堤东侧产生堆积,西侧侵蚀。粒度特征和海滩地貌变化显示:套子湾海滩沉积物是由夹河口向东西两侧发生沿岸运移。为烟台开发区海水浴场的海滩养护以及芝罘岛连岛沙坝海岸的合理利用提供科学依据。     

Preliminary results on suspended sediment transport by tidal currents in Gomso Bay,Korea

This study briefly investigated sediment transport by tidal currents in Gomso Bay, on the mid-west coast of Korea during the summer season. Hydrodynamic measurements with benthic tripods (TISDOSs) show that near-bed suspended sediments are transported toward the bay mouth along the low-water line of tidal flats in the southern part of the bay, while they are directed offshore in front of the major tidal channel at the bay mouth according to tidal asymmetry. However, suspended sediments in the main body of sea water, observed from transect and anchor-site measurements, indicate a consistent incoming toward the uppermost tidal flats. A brief episode of relatively strong winds from the west and southeast displays that wind waves can yield the near-bed suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) overwhelming the SSC by tidal currents alone in the remaining duration.     

乐清湾悬沙的浓度分布与运移

本文根据冬、夏、秋3季29站次的周日水文泥沙观测资料,通过对悬沙浓度和单宽输沙特征值的计算,讨论了该湾悬沙浓度的分布规律以及单宽输沙与悬沙运移的特点。     

Process-based model for nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological evolution in the surf and swash zones

Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.     

平直斜坡上破波带内质量输移流对污染物输移影响的数值研究

破波带内外都有质量输移流存在,其对破波带内污染物输移有怎样的影响,需要进一步深入研究。本文基于实验以及考虑质量输移流的对流扩散数学模型研究了平直斜坡上破波带内质量输移流对污染物输移影响。数学模型包括波浪模型、近岸流模型以及对流扩散模型。首先建立了破波带内污染物输移数学模型,其中波浪场基于波能守恒方程来计算,波导流场基于Longuet-Higgins提出的辐射应力模拟,污染物对流扩散方程中考虑了质量输移流的影响,并利用算例验证该数学模型。其次简要介绍了平直斜坡上破波带内污染物输移实验,并分析了污染物输移特性。连续投放污染物会形成污染带,本文分析了两种波况下不同时刻污染带与岸线夹角的变化,以及污染物在垂直岸线和沿岸线方向的输移速度,结果表明对两种波况来说在初始10-40s污染团向岸线方向输移速度分别约为0.05m/s、0.017m/s,之后速度分别减小为0.001m/s、0.011m/s。数值模拟结果与实验结果比较表明：考虑质量输移流的模拟结果与实验更为吻合。因而,通过实验以及数模研究表明破波带内质量输移流对破波带内污染物在垂直岸线方向的输移有重要影响,而对沿岸方向的输移则影响较小。     

闽江口入海悬沙输运的数值模拟

闽江河口位于福建省东部,本文利用欧拉-拉格朗日差分方法模拟闽江口及附近海域在不同径流下的潮流场,并建立拉格朗日水质点跟踪方法近似模拟了悬沙在海域中的迁移过程．水质点运动轨迹计算结果表明,闽江口悬沙在外海主要向南方或东南方输运,其轨迹呈现螺旋线．在洪峰流量下,悬沙运移距离较远．     

乐清湾悬沙输移机制分析

以乐清湾海区特征测站实测资料为据,运用机制分解法将悬沙净输移通量分解成多个动力项并讨论不同区域悬沙输移的时空分布特征,认为潮泵输沙在湾内贡献均较大,在浅滩附近占明显优势,垂向净环流输沙在小潮期中,内湾作用显著,平流输沙在开阔水域及中湾深槽起主要作用.从余流分布、流速与含沙量的相位关系、垂向余流结构与悬沙浓度垂向梯度变化...     

Measurement and modelling of the influence of grain size and pressure gradient on swash uprush sediment transport

The paper examines the dependency between total sediment transport, q, and grain size, D (i.e. q ∝ D^p) under dam break generated swash flows. Experiments were performed in a dam break flume over a sloping mobile sand bed with median grain sizes ranging from 0.22 mm to 2.65 mm. The total sediment transport was measured by truncating the flume bed and collecting the sediment transported over the edge. The experiments were designed to exclude pre-generated turbulence and pre-suspended sediment so as to focus solely on the swash flow. The magnitude and nature of the grain size dependency (i.e. p value) were inferred for different flow parameters; the initial dam depth, d_o, the integrated depth averaged velocity cubed, ∫ u³dt, and against the predicted transport potential, q_p, using the Meyer-Peter Muller (MPM) transport model and variations of that model. The data show that negative dependencies (p < 0) are obtained for d_o and q_p, whilst positive dependencies (p > 0) are obtained for ∫ u³dt. This indicates that a given d_o and q_p transport less sediment as grain size increases, whereas transport increases with grain size for a given ∫ u³dt. The p value is found to be narrowly ranged, 0.5 ≤ p ≤ − 0.5. On average, the incorporation of a pressure gradient term via the piezometric head into the MPM formulation reduces q_p by 4% (fine sand) to 18% (coarse sand). The measured total transport for fine and coarse sands is best predicted using MPM and MPM + dp*/dx respectively. However, the inferred optimum transport coefficient in the MPM formulation is about 30, much higher than the standard coefficient in a steady flow and this is not due to the presence of the pre-suspended sediment. The optimum transport coefficient indicates some sensitivity to grain size, suggesting that some transport processes remain unaccounted for in the model.     

Alongshore fluid motions in the swash zone of a sandy and gravel beach

Field experiments were conducted on a low-gradient, high-energy sandy beach (Truc Vert, France) and a steep, low-energy gravel beach (Slapton, UK) to examine alongshore-directed currents within the swash zone. At Truc Vert, data were collected over 33 tidal cycles with offshore significant wave heights of 1–4 m and periods of 5–12 s. At Slapton data were collected during 12 tides with wave heights of 0.3–1 m and periods of 4–9 s. The swash motion was predominantly at infragravity frequencies at Truc Vert and incident frequencies at Slapton.     

恢复饱和过程与潮流不对称耦合作用下的悬沙输运

通过理想模型的解析解对河口悬移质泥沙输沙中恢复饱和过程与潮流不对称耦合作用下的长期净输运机制进行了研究,并给出了二者耦合作用下的悬沙长期净输运的定量表达及悬沙净输运方向与分潮相对位相的关系。研究认为,悬沙的长期净输运与泥沙的恢复饱和过程及潮流不对称存在密切关系。对于仅单频潮波作用的情况,恢复饱和过程不会导致悬沙净输运的产生;分潮与余流的相互作用将产生与余流方向一致的净输运;悬沙的净输运方向与潮流不对称的方向并不完全一致;对于频率满足一定条件的分潮的组合,不论该分潮组合是否导致潮流不对称,均会产生悬沙的净输运;净输运量是分潮组合中各分潮流速的振幅、相对位相及相对恢复饱和时间的函数。对于某一分潮组合,悬沙净输运与潮流不对称方向改变时,二者的相对位相阈值之间的偏差随恢复饱和时间的增大而增大。     

洋山港海域水体和悬沙输运机制研究

对洋山港海域水体和悬沙长期输运速度分离,并进行机制分解,分析各种物理过程对水体和悬沙长期输运速度所起的作用.结果表明,水体和悬沙输运存在明显差异,直接描述悬沙净输运更准确合理;欧拉余流在水体长期输运中占主导地位,平流输运和潮泵输运是洋山港海域悬沙输运的主要动力因素,由于潮动力混合较强,垂向输运作用很小.     

Ebb-tidal jets: A model of suspended sediment and mass transport at tidal inlets

Mass transport by turbulent jets issuing from tidal inlets is investigated through a model that includes lateral mixing and entrainment, bottom friction, bathymetric changes, settling rate of particles (size), possible deposition/erosion at the bottom and ambient currents and concentrations. The bottom frictional jet becomes diluted more slowly than a classical jet. A non-vanishing concentration may result offshore and a maximum may occur in the core. The concentration of a jet on a sloping bottom decreases more rapidly due to increased dilution by entraiment. The effects of bottom friction and bottom slope compete in determining the jet concentration. Deposition to the bottom occurs within the jet mainly on both sides of the centre-line, and at lower rates on the centre-line. Erosion or deposition may occur at the jet core depending on the inlet flow conditions. In the case of erosion at the core, the material extracted is deposited on the margins and the offshore areas. Sorting of the sediments is expected, with coarser materials mainly deposited in the marginal areas, while the finer sediments are more uniformly distributed and jetted further off-shore. The main features of the model are verified through a limited set of observations. The qualitative agreement is enhanced for micro- and meso-tidal inlets that are dominated by tidal hydraulics.