Formula for predicting bedload transport rate in oscillatory sheet flows

At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199].     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…     

Shoreface morphodynamics on wave-dominated coasts

An open ocean shoreface typical of long, wave-dominated sandy coasts has been examined through a combination of extensive field measurements of wave and current patterns with computations of marine bedload transport and sedimentation. Sand transport on the upper shoreface is dominantly controlled by waves with only secondary transport by currents. Sand on the middle and lower shoreface, as well as the inner continental shelf is entrained by storm waves and transported by a complex pattern of bottom boundary layer currents.

Storm events have been studied and modeled for the shoreface off Tiana Beach, Long Island. The dominant effect of coastal frontal storms is to cause significant shore-parallel bedload transport with important shore-normal secondary components. These storms tend to result in net offshore transport of sand removed from the beach and surf zone systems. The bedload transport during a storm is convergent on the shoreface leading to accretion. Most accretion occurs on the upper shoreface with lesser deposits covering the middle and lower shoreface as well as the inner continental shelf. Longer-term equilibrium can be maintained by slow return of sand up the shoreface during non-storm conditions.

Annual and geologic time-scale budgets of shoreface sand transport and sedimentation yield equilibrium, net accretion or net deposition. The annual balance results from an integration of the event-scale bedload transport patterns and morphologic responses. These processes and responses have feedback mechanisms which stabilize the system over longer, but not geologic, time scales. Geologic time scale balances are controlled by relative sea level changes and relative availability of sediment supply with the event-scale shoreface and transporting processes providing the mechanism to produce the changes in long-term morphology and sedimentation patterns. In the area of study, the long-term pattern is one of net shoreface erosion, and the permanent loss of sand to the shelf floor.     

近岸波浪和波生流环境中泥沙输运的数值模拟

Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78.     

Down-scaled regional ocean modeling system (ROMS) for high-resolution coastal hydrodynamics in Korea

A down-scaled operational oceanographic system is developed for the coastal waters of Korea using a regional ocean modeling system(ROMS).The operational oceanographic modeling system consists of atmospheric and hydrodynamic models.The hydrodynamic model,ROMS,is coupled with wave,sediment transport,and water quality modules.The system forecasts the predicted results twice a day on a 72 h basis,including sea surface elevation,currents,temperature,salinity,storm surge height,and wave information for the coastal waters of Korea.The predicted results are exported to the web-GIS-based coastal information system for real-time dissemination to the public and validation with real-time monitoring data using visualization technologies.The ROMS is two-way coupled with a simulating waves nearshore model,SWAN,for the hydrodynamics and waves,nested with the meteorological model,WRF,for the atmospheric surface forcing,and externally nested with the eutrophication model,CE-QUAL-ICM,for the water quality.The operational model,ROMS,was calibrated with the tidal surface observed with a tide-gage and verified with current data observed by bottom-mounted ADCP or AWAC near the coastal waters of Korea.To validate the predicted results,we used real-time monitoring data derived from remote buoy system,HF-radar,and geostationary ocean color imager(GOCI).This down-scaled operational coastal forecasting system will be used as a part of the Korea operational oceanographic system(KOOS) with other operational oceanographic systems.     

粤东后江湾近岸带风-浪-流联合作用下的泥沙输运

在现场观测资料分析基础上,应用波-流联合输沙模型,对粤东后江岬间海湾近岸带净环流、泥沙输运作用加以模拟分析,结果表明,东北东向风是形成近岸西南向净环流的主要驱动力,波浪控制了海底泥沙再悬浮和底质推移输运的过程,从而形成海湾海底地形以东北部侵蚀为主、西南部以淤积为主的发展趋势.     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

山东半岛沿岸海域悬浮体时空分布及形成机制分析

依据2015年GOCI(geostationary ocean color imager)卫星影像反演的悬浮体浓度数据,分析了山东半岛沿岸海域表层悬浮体质量浓度和锋面月变化特征,揭示该海域悬浮体的分布特征和扩散格局,并结合风速、波高以及海表温度数据,对其控制因素进行初步探讨。结果显示:研究区内悬浮体质量浓度整体表现为冬季最高,春秋次之,夏季最低的分布特征;悬浮体扩散过程可以划分为4个阶段,冬季稳定外输,春季向岸退缩,夏季近岸贮存,秋季向外扩散。此外,山东半岛近岸存在一条悬浮体质量浓度高于10 mg/L的浑浊带,该浑浊带同样表现出季节变化,它在秋季开始形成,其悬浮体含量、幅宽及延伸范围在冬季达到最大,春季减弱,夏季消失。研究认为山东半岛沿岸海域的表层悬浮体来源主要是海底沉积物的再悬浮。风场、海浪以及沿岸流的强弱变化对悬浮体分布和输运的季节变化有重要的控制作用:风场和海浪影响海水混合搅拌强度,改变海底沉积物再悬浮作用的临界深度,进而影响表层海水悬浮体浓度,致使悬浮体浓度与风浪的月际变化趋势基本一致;沿岸流携带高浓度悬浮体沿山东半岛输运形成沿岸浑浊带,沿岸流的强度变化直接控制浑浊带的季节变化。     

厦门湾口外近岸陆架区海底沙波发育特征

利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响.结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10～60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°～1°;平面上沙波区...     

Mobile sand deposits and shoreface sediment dynamics in the inner German Bight (North Sea)

This paper presents a conceptual model for the net bedload transport regime on the shoreface of the German Bight. The model is based on the spatial distribution of the surficial sediment cover (North Sea sands) which is identical to the uppermost layer in the seismic recordings. Sediment thickness was measured using very high resolution seismic profiling (chirp sonar) and vibrocoring. The three-dimensional sediment distribution was estimated using geostatistical methods (cokriging). The results demonstrate a longshore sand distribution with three distinct zones. In Zone 1 (0–10 m water depth) the sediments attain their maximum thickness of 10±2.5 m. Between 10 and 15 m water depth a relatively thin sand layer of 0.4–1.5 m is observed within Zone 2. The seaward adjacent Zone 3 (15–20 m water depth) is characterized by an averaged sand thickness of 2–3 m with local maxima of 5–6 m. Further offshore, the sand layer decreases to about 1–2 m thickness. The net bedload transport directions inferred from this sediment zonation comprise a longshore sediment bypassing in Zone 1 which results in a substantial sediment supply to the innermost part of the German Bight due to bedload convergence. Shore-normal bedload transport shifts sand to and fro across the coastal profile although the net directional transport is seawards. This results in sediment depletion between the 10 and 15 m-isobaths (Zone 2) and an adjacent sediment accumulation in deeper waters (Zone 3).     

Sand suspension and transport on the Middelkerke Bank (southern North Sea) by storms and tidal currents

Estimates have been made of the suspended sand transport at two sites on the Middelkerke Bank, in the southern North Sea, from suspended sand profiles and current meter measurements over a period of approximately 40 days. Sand resuspension was mainly due to waves while transport was dominated by a few hours when large waves coincided with peak flood currents. Soulsby's relationships for the stress under combined currents and waves were found to be poor predictors for the observed near-bed concentrations; the mean stress, , predicting 45% of the variance while the maximum stress, , predicted just 15%, and overestimate the effects of the waves. When the influence of the stress due to the waves is reduced, the variance explained increases to 67%. The sand transport rate on the steep slope of the bank was 10 times that of the southern end, and was up-slope at 25° to the bank axis, in the direction of the major axis of the tidal ellipse. The transport on the steep slope was mainly in the size range 100–140 μm which did not occur in any significant proportion in samples of the sea bed at that site but was advected from deeper water to the southeast. Excluding this finer component the transport rates of coarser sand (>200 μm) at the two sites were similar over the 40-day period. The up-slope transport during storms suggests that waves play an important part in the bank maintenance and are not simply the mechanism which prevents the continual growth of the sand bank due to asymmetrical transport by the tidal currents alone. The transport rates are consistent with a time-scale of 10²–10³ years for the formation of the Middelkerke Bank.     

Simulating typhoon waves by SWAN wave model in coastal waters of Taiwan

The SWAN wave model is typically designed for wave simulations in the near-shore region and thus is selected for evaluating its applicability on typhoon waves in the coastal waters around Taiwan Island. Numerical calculations on processes of wave heights and periods during the passages of four representative typhoons are compared with measured data from field wave stations on both east and west coasts. The results have shown that waves due to typhoons of paths 2, 3 and 4 can be reasonably simulated on east coastal waters. However, discrepancies increase for the simulated results on west coastal waters because the island's central mountains partly damage the cyclonic structures of the passing-over typhoons. It is also found that the included nested grid scheme in SWAN could improve the accuracy of simulations in coastal waters to facilitate further engineering practices.     

Transport and distribution of nutrients in anchovy spawning ground to the southern waters of Shandong Peninsula

INTRODUCTIONNutrients (N ,PandSi)areessentialforphytoplanktongrowthinmarineecosystem .Thetransportandcycling ,distributionandvariationofnutrientsaffectnotonlyonthestructureandfunctionofecosystem ,butalsoonthevariationofthebiologicalresourcesinthesea .ThesouthofShondongPeninsulaisoneofthecentralzonesofurbanandagriculturalactivities.Al thoughthereisnodirectlargeriverinput,seasonalvariationofchemicalenvironmentisobviousintheHaizhouBay .Inspringandsummer,thedistributionsofnutrientsareinflu…     

Nonlinear interaction of internal waves in the coastal zone of the Sea of Japan

Nonlinear interactions of the internal waves of a tidal period with low-frequency synoptic-scale internal waves are studied using instrumental measurements of the current in the coastal zone of the Sea of Japan. In the course of spectral analysis of the data of instrumental measurements, it is found that a maximum in the spectrum of the kinetic energy of coastal waters in the vicinity of the semidiurnal frequency ω₀ is surrounded by satellite maxima whose frequencies obey the relation ω _s = ω₀ ± Ω, where Ω is the characteristic frequency of synoptic-scale internal waves. The spectrum of the anticyclonic current component has a similar structure in the vicinities of the frequency ω₀ and its first and second harmonics. The general theory of nonlinear interactions of weakly dispersive waves is used to solve the problem of modulation and the parametric amplification of tidal internal waves in the coastal zone using low-frequency narrow-band internal waviness. As can be judged from the literature, the effect of parametric modulation of tidal internal waves by low-frequency synoptic-scale internal waves has been recorded in the coastal zone of a tidal sea for the first time.     

Practical sand transport formula for non-breaking waves and currents

Many existing practical sand transport formulae for the coastal marine environment are restricted to a limited range of hydrodynamic and sand conditions. This paper presents a new practical formula for net sand transport induced by non-breaking waves and currents. The formula is especially developed for cross-shore sand transport under wave-dominated conditions and is based on the semi-unsteady, half wave-cycle concept, with bed shear stress as the main forcing parameter. Unsteady phase-lag effects between velocities and concentrations, which are especially important for rippled bed and fine sand sheet-flow conditions, are accounted for through parameterisations. Recently-recognised effects on the net transport rate related to flow acceleration skewness and progressive surface waves are also included. To account for the latter, the formula includes the effects of boundary layer streaming and advection effects which occur under real waves, but not in oscillatory tunnel flows. The formula is developed using a database of 226 net transport rate measurements from large-scale oscillatory flow tunnels and a large wave flume, covering a wide range of full-scale flow conditions and uniform and graded sands with median diameter ranging from 0.13 mm to 0.54 mm. Good overall agreement is obtained between observed and predicted net transport rates with 78% of the predictions falling within a factor 2 of the measurements. For several distinctly different conditions, the behaviour of the net transport with increasing flow strength agrees well with observations, indicating that the most important transport processes in both the rippled bed and sheet flow regime are well captured by the formula. However, for some flow conditions good quantitative agreement could only be obtained by introducing separate calibration parameters. The new formula has been validated against independent net transport rate data for oscillatory flow conditions and steady flow conditions.     

Response of bedload transport, submarine topography, and dune internal structures to typhoon processes off Dongfang coast in the Beibu Gulf

Bedload sediment transport was estimated by the SEDTRANS96 model based on three-day hydrodynamics data obtained off the Dongfang coast in the Beibu Gulf during Typhoon Ketsana in September 2009. Bedforms on the sea floor off the Dongfang coast and internal structures of a typical dune were interpreted to evaluate storm influences on individual dunes and the dune field. Results indicated that flow forcings and related bedload transport were both strengthened significantly due to Typhoon Ketsana. The measurements and modeling results, which mainly included three different stages, presented noticeable phasic variation. The three stages were dominated by tidal current (Period Ⅰ), tidal current combined with wind-induced waves (Period Ⅱ), and swells combined with tidal current and seaward flows (Period Ⅲ). This phasic variation could be a common trait of hydrodynamics due to typhoons moving westwardly to the south of Hainan Island and Beibu Gulf in South China Sea. Results indicated that the maximum bedload transport rate for every burst in Period Ⅲ was almost 100 times larger than that in Period I and was ten times larger than that in Period II. However, the short-term increase in bedload transport induced by storms like Ketsana did not change the long-term evolution of dune morphology. Evidence was given by the internal structures of a typical dune, which revealed renewed modification under subsequent moderate conditions after storm erosion. Instead, storms may influence at different scales and regional allocation of sand dunes in some large areas because changes of the sea floor in large scales can hardly be recovered. More surveys during and after storm passage are also needed to document the level of positive contribution to forward migration.     

Combined tidal and wind driven flows and residual currents

The effect of a residual current on the combined tidal and wind driven flow and the resulting bedload sediment transport in the ocean has been investigated, using a simple one dimensional two-equation turbulence closure model. Predictions of the combined tidal and wind driven flow with given residual currents are presented, showing that the residual current has a substantial effect on both the depth averaged mass transport and the mean bedload transport directions; in some cases the effect of the residual current is to almost reverse the mean bedload transport direction. The residual current affects the rotation of the flow due to the Coriolis effect in the lower part of the water column (the near-surface flow is wind dominated), causing a larger or smaller clockwise rotation of the depth averaged mass transport, depending on the direction of the residual current.     

A new formula for the total longshore sediment transport rate

A new predictive formula for the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate was developed from principles of sediment transport physics assuming that breaking waves mobilize the sediment, which is subsequently moved by a mean current. Six high-quality data sets on hydrodynamics and sediment transport collected during both field and laboratory conditions were employed to evaluate the predictive capability of the new formula. The main parameter of the formula (a transport coefficient), which represents the efficiency of the waves in keeping sand grains in suspension, was expressed through a Dean number based on dimensional analysis. The new formula yields predictions that lie within a factor of 0.5 to 2 of the measured values for 62% of the data points, which is higher than other commonly employed formulas for the LST rate such as the CERC equation or the formulas developed by Inman–Bagnold and Kamphuis, respectively. The new formula is well suited for practical applications in coastal areas, as well as for numerical modeling of sediment transport and shoreline change in the nearshore.     

江苏如东西太阳沙及烂沙洋海域潮流泥沙数值模拟

基于不规则三角形网格有限差分法并考虑波浪及其破碎作用,建立了平面二维潮流场和泥沙场数学模型.该模型对有望建设成深水码头和深水航道的江苏如东西太阳沙和烂沙洋海域的潮流场和泥沙场进行了细化数值模拟.数值模拟结果表明：（1）本海区潮流基本上是顺深槽流动的往复流,潮流流速大,烂沙洋北水道和西太阳沙附近大潮涨落潮最大流速分别在2 m/s和1 m/s以上;（2）本海区的潮平均水体含沙量在0.5 kg/m^3以下,落潮含沙量大于涨潮含沙量;（3）小浪对水体含沙量影响很小,大浪作用下水体含沙量明显增加.