Coastal circulation near kakinada bay during monsoon period

Summary With a view of understanding the various processes responsible for the deposition of sand in the vicinity of Kakinada Bay and Godavari Point, an intensive study of currents in the coastal waters has been made using floats. The circulation has high variability in both magnitude and direction related to the three current components namely wind currents, tidal currents and wave currents. The circulation pattern rapidly changes with the change in the phase of the tide and local winds of land and see breeze. The littoral currents directed up-coast during premonsoon and monsoon seasons have insignificant effect across the bay opening due to the sheltering effect of the sand bar. The study is found helpful for understanding the geomorphological changes of the shoreline in this region from time to time.     

Characterization of sedimentary deposits at the confluence of two tributaries of the Pará River estuary (Guajará Bay,Amazon)

Guajará Bay, located at the right margin of the Pará River estuary (Amazon) is formed in the confluence of Guamá and Acará–Moju rivers. It has low-depth zones (∼5 m) and deep channels (∼25 m). The ebb channel is located in the west section, where there is intense erosion of the margin. The flood channels and intertidal mudflats, which stretch out from north to south along the shore of the city of Belém do Pará, are in the east section. There are sandy (northwest) and muddy sedimentary deposits (east–southeast). Some 70% of Guajará Bay's bottom is covered by mud. The depositation of such muddy sediments and the formation of a point bar in the south section (Guamá River mouth) happen due to a decrease in the intensity of tidal currents to the south and of fluvial currents to the north. However, the hydrodynamic regime is high, which is proved by the low clay amounts. The sand deposits in the northwest section indicate strong tidal currents. The vast area of the bottom that is covered by mud (∼90 km²) and the intertidal mudflats (∼150 m wide) in Guajará Bay hint the extent of the contribution and sediments flow from Guamá and Acará–Moju rivers (drainage basin total area of ∼87,400 km²) to the Pará River estuary. The regular rainfall regime, typical of the Amazon region, keeps the considerable discharges of such rivers and their high turbidity (Secchi depth ?0.5 m) in the investigation area. Generally speaking, the low topography, the great fluvial subsidy and the action of tidal currents are the main controlling elements of the depositation and dispersion of sediments in Guajará Bay.     

Modelling aeolian sand transport and morphological development in two beach nourishment areas

The aeolian sand transport model SAFE and the air flow model HILL were applied to evaluate cross‐shore changes at two nourished beaches and adjacent dunes and to identify the response of aeolian sand transport and morphology to several nourishment design parameters and fill characteristics. The main input of the model consisted of data on the sediment, tide and meteorological conditions, and of half‐yearly measured characteristics of topography, vegetation and sand fences. The cross‐shore profiles generated by SAFE–HILL were compared to measured cross‐shore profiles. The patterns of erosion and deposition, and the morphological development corresponded. In general, the rates of aeolian sand transport were overestimated. The impact of parameters that are related to beach nourishment (namely grain size, adaptation length and beach topography) on profile development was evaluated. Grain size affected the aeolian sand transport rate to the foredunes, and therefore the morphology. Adaptation length, which is a measure of the distance over which sediment transport adapts to a new equilibrium condition, affected the topography of the beach in particular. The topography of a beach nourishment had limited impact on both aeolian sand transport rate and morphology. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Baroclinic dynamics of wind-driven circulation in a stratified bay: A numerical study using models of varying complexity

The baroclinic response of a stratified coastal embayment (Lunenburg Bay of Nova Scotia) to the observed wind forcing is examined using two numerical models. A linear baroclinic model based on the normal mode approach shows skill at reproducing the observed isotherm movements and sub-surface currents during a time of strong stratification in the bay. The linear model also shows that the isotherm movement in Lunenburg Bay is influenced by the wind forcing and propagation of baroclinic Kelvin waves from neighbouring Mahone Bay. The effects of nonlinearity and topography are investigated using a three-dimensional nonlinear coastal circulation model. The nonlinear model results demonstrate that the nonlinear advection terms generate a gyre circulation at the entrance of Lunenburg Bay, and the slope bottom topography at the mouth of the bay strengthens the sub-surface time-mean inflow on the southern side of the bay. A comparison of model-calculated currents in different numerical experiments clearly shows that baroclinicity plays a dominant role in the dynamics of wind-driven circulation in Lunenburg Bay.     

Sediment dynamics in an offshore tidal channel in the southern Yellow Sea

The geomorphology of the southern Yellow Sea（SYS） is characterized by offshore radial sand ridges（RSR）.An offshore tidal channel（KSY Channel） is located perpendicular to the coast,comprised of a main and a tributary channel separated by a submarine sand ridge（KSY Sand Ridge） extending seaward.In order to investigate the interactions among water flow,sediment transport,and topography,current velocity and suspended sediment concentration（SSC） were observed at 11 anchor stations along KSY Channel in RSR during a spring tide cycle.High resolution bottom topography was also surveyed.Residual currents and tidally averaged suspended sediment fluxes were calculated and analyzed by using the decomposition method.Results suggested that the water currents became stronger landward but with asymmetrical current speed and temporal duration of flood and ebb tides.Residual currents showed landward water transport in the nearshore channel and a clockwise circulation around the KSY Sand Ridge.Tidally-averaged SSC also increased landward along the channel.The main mechanisms controlling SSC variations were resuspension and horizontal advection,with spatial and temporal variations in the channel,which also contributed to sediment redistribution between channels and sand ridges.Residual flow transport and the tidal pumping effect dominated the suspended sediment flux in the KSY Channel.The KSY Sand Ridge had a potential southward migration due to the interaction between water flow,sediment transport,and topography.     

Sand spit dynamics in a large tidal-range environment: Insight from multiple LiDAR,UAV and hydrodynamic measurements on multiple spit hook development,breaching, reconstruction,and shoreline changes

Sand spits with distal hooks have been well documented from coasts with low to moderate tidal ranges, unlike high tidal-range environments. Datasets from 15 LiDAR and 3 UAV surveys between 2009 and 2019 on the Agon spit in Normandy (France), a setting with one of the largest tidal ranges in the world (mean spring tidal range: 11 m), combined with in-situ hydrodynamic records between 2013 and 2017, highlight a three-stage pattern of spit hook evolution. Stage 1 (2009–2013) commenced with the onshore migration and attachment of a swash bar, followed by persistent spit accretion updrift of the bar and erosion downdrift because of the slow speed of bar migration in this large tidal-range environment. In stage 2 (2013–2016), three overwash events and a 220 m-wide breach culminating in the total destruction of the spit during winter 2015–2016 involved the landward mobilization of thousands of cubic metres of sand. These events occurred during short durations (a few hours) when spring high tides coincided with relatively energetic waves, underscoring the importance of storms in rapid spit morphological change. Strong spring tidal currents maintained the breach. Stage 3 (2016–2019) has involved new hook construction through welding of a swash bar and spit longshore extension, highlighting the resilience of the spit over the 10-year period, and involving a positive sediment balance of 244 000 m³. The three stages bring out, by virtue of the temporal density of LiDAR and UAV data used, a high detail of spit evolution relative to earlier studies in this macrotidal setting. The large tidal range strongly modulates the role of waves and wave-generated longshore currents, the main process drivers of spit evolution, by favouring long periods of inertia in the course of the spring–neap tidal cycle, but also brief episodes of significant morphological change when storm waves coincide with spring high tides. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Length of phytoplankton species patches on the Southern California Shelf

Study of a longshore transect off Southern California suggests that the length scales (22 to 27 km) of phytoplankton species patches may be related to those of low-frequency currents. The patch boundaries were independent of shelf width but they were probably not independent of changes in chlorophyll fluorescence, temperature, and bottom topography.     

Estuarine shoreline processes in a dynamic low-energy system

Estuarine shorelines are often classified as low-energy coasts and are, therefore, expected to undergo little variation. Port Stephens (SE Australia) is a ria-like drowned river valley microtidal estuary located on a wave-dominated coast. The outer part of the estuary is tide-dominated and has a large shallow flood-tide delta, which is also affected by waves. The northern (predominantly low-energy) shoreline of outer Port Stephens is a continuous stretch of sand comprising areas of high mobility and areas of relative stability terminating in a western extending sand spit. This paper investigates the effects of periodic high-energy conditions during which waves penetrate into the estuary by analysing two types of storms, low to moderate (more frequent type) storms and severe to extreme (low frequency) storms. It is established that low to moderate storms cause generalised erosion over the northern shoreline. On the contrary, severe to extreme storms, while causing erosion on parts of the beach, can transport new sediment across the flood-tide delta and deposit it to build a mobile shore attached sandwave. Long-term (decadal) trends identified in the study area are in agreement with short- and medium-term results. Moving into the estuary are four complementary zones of sediment transport which include: (1) sandwave formation and westward migration; (2) a relatively stable area between the sandwave and an erosion zone; (3) an erosion zone undergoing shoreline retreat and finally (4) a depositional terminus causing westward extension of the sand spit.     

Imprints of wave climate and mean sea level variations in the dynamics of a coastal spit over the last 250 years: Cap Ferret,SW France

In coastal areas, sea level rise (SLR) and changing wave climates are expected to be the main oceanic drivers of shoreline adjustments. These drivers have been shown to vary on a wide spectrum of spatial and temporal scales. Nonetheless, a general rule about how this variability impacts global shorelines remains to be articulated. Here, we discuss the impacts of wave climate changes and SLR on the evolution of a barrier spit–inlet system over the last 250 years. The distal end of the Cap Ferret barrier spit, SW France, has undergone large-scale oscillations that were well correlated with variations of the decadal average of the winter North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index. The local wave climate hindcast supports that increased alongshore wave energy fluxes associated with the positive phase of the NAO were responsible for the updrift retreat of the spit. By opposition, the spit has elongated downdrift when waves were less energetic and more shore normal, as during the negative phase of the NAO. In addition, lower rates of SLR appeared to be necessary for the spit to develop, as higher rates of SLR very likely forced the adjacent inlet to enlarge, at the expense of the spit. These results should help to predict and detect coastal adjustments driven by climate change and by climate variability. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The hydrological regime and the morphological structure of the Godavari River delta (India)

The major hydrological and geographic characteristics of the Godavari River and the coastal zone of the Bay of Bengal that have their effect on the hydrological regime and the morphological structure of the river delta are considered. The hydrographic, climatic, and environmental conditions in the Godavari delta are described. The specific features of hydrological processes in the delta are considered, including river and bay water mixing and the impact of tropic storms and hurricanes on the delta. The main features of morphological processes in the delta are revealed, including cyclic changes in the delta in Holocene and the dynamics of the channel network and delta coastline in the past 150 years. It is shown that the processes of erosion and retreat of the delta coastline became more active in the late XX century.     

Short‐term intertidal bar mobility on a ridge‐and‐runnel beach,Merlimont, northern France

Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A comparison of reef‐protected environments in ­Western Australia: the central west and Ningaloo coasts

Variability in the regional setting and morphology of cuspate forelands on the west coast of Western Australia is examined in this paper. In accordance with this aim, principal differences in the geologic and geomorphologic setting of three prominent sites on the west coast were established and their association with historical changes and contemporary oceanographic processes was examined. The cuspate forelands investigated are Jurien Bay, Winderabandi Point and Turquoise Bay. The most significant differences in geologic setting are associated with the structure and location of an extensive offshore reef system. Morphologically, the reef alters from south to north, changing from a discontinuous ridge parallel to the shore along the central west coast, to a nearly continuous fringing reef at Ningaloo. The reefs vary in distance from the shore, being farthest in the south and closest in the north and they impound a series of inshore basins, or lagoons. The deeper southern basins are dominated by locally generated wind waves and wind‐generated currents. The shallower northern basins are most markedly affected by tidal currents and wave pumping across the reef flats. The large cuspate foreland at Jurien on the central west coast has undergone shoreline configuration change in response to changing phases of storminess as well as in response to a change in focus for sediment deposition as a result of offshore reef erosion. At Winderabandi Point on the Ningaloo coast, relict Pleistocene limestone has provided the focus for sedimentation and morphology has been controlled by a balance in refracted wave energy and nearshore currents driven by tidal and wave set‐up variability. At Turquoise Bay, where the lagoonal basin is most shallow and narrow, the morphology of the foreland suggests that it may at some stage have been migratory, but its present asymmetrical shape is maintained by strong northerly longshore drift and strong currents exiting the lagoon through a nearby gap in the reef crest. Fundamental differences between the two coastal regions include the structure of the offshore reef, processes driving flow of water within the lagoons and the role of storminess in evolution of coastal landforms. Although many questions regarding storm surge dynamics and landform change remain unanswered, this research provides a significant contribution to the understanding of the evolution of morphological systems in low‐wave‐energy protected environments. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Two new conceptual models for the formation and degradation of baymouth spits by longshore drift and fluvial discharge (Iguape,SE Brazil)

This study describes the formation of two successive baymouth spits systems on the south‐eastern Brazilian coast and the degradation of the first system. The study area includes the Jureia Beach spit, the deflected Ribeira de Iguape River mouth, the central Iguape sandy headland, the Icapara Inlet of the Mar Pequeno Lagoon and the northern end of the Comprida Island barrier spit. The wave and river flow patterns were combined with the coastline evolution and the alongshore migration rates deduced from satellite images. Initially, both spits showed convergent alongshore migration rates equal to or less than 83 m/yr. However, the extreme river flow due to high rainfall during a very strong El Niño event in 1983 eroded the inland side of the Jureia Beach spit, which finally retreated due to wave erosion. In 1989, a sand bank emerged in the river mouth, which attached to the central headland forming a recurved northeastward spit. In 1994, the high fluvial discharge associated with another very strong El Niño event caused the landward migration of the new spit and emersion of a second sand bank. This second sand bank merged with the Jureia Beach spit in 1997 at an alongshore migration rate of 1795.6 m/yr. Wave erosion of the central headland continued and the attached spit disappeared in 2000. In 2009, the headland erosion merged the river mouth and the Icapara Inlet, which resulted in flanking baymouth spits in a configuration that remains today. Therefore, two models for the formation of baymouth spits have been documented for wave‐dominated microtidal coasts in humid tropical regions with intense fluvial discharge. The convergent longshore migration of the spits is controlled by both the bidirectional longshore drift and the fluvial discharge, the latter eroding the fronting spit, supplying sediments and acting as a hydraulic blockage for longshore drift. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Conceptualizing delta forms and processes in Arctic coastal environments

Climate warming in the Arctic directly causes two opposite changes in Arctic coastal systems: increased melt‐water discharge through rivers induces extra influx of sediments and extended open water season increases wave impact which reworks and erodes the shores. A shoreline change analysis along the southern coast of Disko Island in western Greenland was conducted with aerial photographs and satellite images from 1964, 1985, and 2012. The decadal morphologic evolution of this 85 km section showed that large parts of the coast had undergone very limited changes. However, two deltas were highly dynamic and popped up as hotspots. The Tuapaat delta and Skansen delta showed large progradation rates (1.5 and 7 m/yr) and migration of the adjacent barriers and spits. The dynamic behavior at the delta mouths was mainly caused by classic delta channel lobe switching at one delta (Tuapaat), and by a breach of the fringing spit at the other delta (Skansen). The longshore and cross‐shore transports are responsible for reworking the sediment with a result of migrating delta mouths and adjacent subaqueous mouth bars. Seaward progradation of the deltas is limited due to the steep nature of the bathymetry in Disko Bay. Finally, a schematic conceptual overview of processes and associated morphological responses for deltas in Arctic environments is presented, including the climate drivers affecting delta evolution. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Numerical simulation of the 1992 Flores tsunami: Interpretation of tsunami phenomena in northeastern Flores Island and damage at Babi Island

Numerical analysis of the 1992 Flores Island, Indonesia earthquake tsunami is carried out with the composite fault model consisting of two different slip values. Computed results show good agreement with the measured runup heights in the northeastern part of Flores Island, except for those in the southern shore of Hading Bay and at Riangkroko. The landslides in the southern part of Hading Bay could generate local tsunamis of more than 10 m. The circular-arc slip model proposed in this study for wave generation due to landslides shows better results than the subsidence model, It is, however, difficult to reproduce the tsunami runup height of 26.2 m at Riangkroko, which was extraordinarily high compared to other places. The wave propagation process on a sea bottom with a steep slope, as well as landslides, may be the cause of the amplification of tsunami at Riangkroko. The simulation model demonstrates that the reflected wave along the northeastern shore of Flores Island, accompanying a high hydraulic pressure, could be the main cause of severe damage in the southern coast of Babi Island.     

Flood–ebb and spring–neap variations of mixing,stratification and circulation in Chesapeake Bay

A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model is used to investigate intra-tidal and spring–neap variations of turbulent mixing, stratification and residual circulation in the Chesapeake Bay estuary. Vertical profiles of salinity, velocity and eddy diffusivity show a marked asymmetry between the flood and ebb tides. Tidal mixing in the bottom boundary layer is stronger and penetrates higher on flood than on ebb. This flood–ebb asymmetry results in a north–south asymmetry in turbulent mixing because tidal currents vary out of phase between the lower and upper regions of Chesapeake Bay. The asymmetric tidal mixing causes significant variation of salinity distribution over the flood–ebb tidal cycle but insignificant changes in the residual circulation. Due to the modulation of tidal currents over the spring–neap cycle, turbulent mixing and vertical stratification show large fortnightly and monthly fluctuations. The stratification is not a linear function of the tidal-current amplitude. Strong stratification is only established during those neap tides when low turbulence intensity persists for several days. Residual circulation also shows large variations over the spring–neap cycle. The tidally averaged residual currents are about 50% stronger during the neap tides than during the spring tides.     

Backshore coarsening processes triggered by wave‐induced sand transport: the critical role of storm events

Spatial backshore processes were investigated through field observations of topography and median sand grain size at a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. A comparison of the backshore profile and cross‐shore distribution of the median sand grain size in 1999 and 2004 revealed an unusual sedimentary process in which sand was coarsened in a depositional area in the 5‐year period, although sediment is generally coarsened in erosional areas. In support of these observations, monthly spatial field analyses carried out in 2004 demonstrated a remarkable backshore coarsening process triggered by sedimentation in the seaward part of the backshore during a storm event. In order to elucidate mechanisms involved in the backshore coarsening process, thresholds of movable sand grain size under wave and wind actions (a uniform parameter for both these cases) in the onshore and offshore directions were estimated using wave, tide, and wind data. The cross‐shore distributions of the estimated thresholds provided reasonable values and demonstrated a coarsening mechanism involving the intermediate zone around the shoreline under alternating wave and wind actions as a result of which coarse sand was transported toward the seaward part of the backshore by large waves during storms and then toward the landward part by strong onshore winds. The 5‐year backshore coarsening is most certainly explained by repetition of short‐term coarsening mechanisms caused by wave‐induced sand transport occurring from the nearshore to the intermediate zone. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd     

Effect of wave–bedform feedbacks on the formation of,and grain sorting over shoreface-connected sand ridges

The influence of wave–bedform feedbacks on both the initial formation of shoreface-connected sand ridges (sfcr) and on grain size sorting over these ridges on micro-tidal inner shelves is studied. Also, the effect of sediment sorting on the growth and the migration of sfcr is investigated. This is done by applying a linear stability analysis to an idealized process-based morphodynamic model, which simulates the initial growth of sfcr due to the positive coupling between waves, currents, and an erodible bed. The sediment consists of sand grains with two different sizes. New elements with respect to earlier studies on grain sorting over sfcr are that wave-topography interactions are explicitly accounted for, entrainment of sediment depends on bottom roughness, and transport of suspended sediment involves settling lag effects. The results of the model indicate that sediment sorting causes a reduction of the growth rate and migration speed of sfcr, whereas the wavelength is only slightly affected. In the case where the entrainment of suspended sediment depends on bottom roughness, the coarsest sediment is found in the troughs; otherwise, the finest sediment occurs in the troughs. Compared to previous work, modeled maximum variations in the mean grain size over the topography are in better agreement with field observations. Settling lag effects are important for the damping of high-wavenumber mode instabilities such that a preferred wavelength of the bedforms is obtained.     

Dynamics of the marine coastal zone of the sea near the entrance moles of the Kaliningrad Seaway Channel

The results of multidisciplinary field studies of a segment of the coastal zone (in the area near the Baltiysk Strait South-East Baltic) are presented. The natural regime of the evolution of this zone has changed under the effect of anthropogenic factor. Bed topography, bottom sediments, and shore morphology and dynamics are characterized. The effect of entrance moles has resulted in the formation of various local hydrolithodynamic conditions on both sides of these moles, including the accumulation of sedimentary material and the seaward protrusion of the coastline in the north and the permanent erosion of the shore in the south. To reduce the adverse effect of hydrodynamic processes on the coastal zone south of the moles it is proposed to use the clean material extracted during strait dredging.     

Multiple‐station neural network for modelling tidal currents across Shinnecock inlet,USA

This paper presents the development of a multiple‐station neural network for predicting tidal currents across a coastal inlet. Unlike traditional hydrodynamic models, the neural network model does not need inputs of coastal topography and bathymetry, grids, surface and bottom frictions, and turbulent eddy viscosity. Without solving hydrodynamic equations, the neural network model applies an interconnected neural network to correlate the inputs of boundary forcing of water levels at a remote station to the outputs of tidal currents at multiple stations across a local coastal inlet. Coefficients in the neural network model are trained using a continuous dataset consisting of inputs of water levels at a remote station and outputs of tidal currents at the inlet, and verified using another independent input and output dataset. Once the neural network model has been satisfactorily trained and verified, it can be used to predict tidal currents at a coastal inlet from the inputs of water levels at a remote station. For the case study at Shinnecock Inlet in the southern shore of New York, tidal currents at nine stations across the inlet were predicted by the neural network model using water level data located from a station about 70 km away from the inlet. A continuous dataset in May 2000 was used for the training, and another dataset in July 2000 was used for the verification of the neural network model. Comparing model predictions and observations indicates correlation coefficients range from 0·95 to 0·98, and the root‐mean‐square error ranges from 0·04 to 0·08 m s^?1 at the nine current locations across the inlet. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.