莱州湾西南部表层沉积物粒度分布特征及其现代沉积环境分区

根据莱州湾西南部207个表层沉积物样品的粒度分析结果,对莱州湾西南部沉积物粒度分布特征进行了研究,在此基础上应用系统聚类分析方法并结合物源及水动力条件探讨了其现代沉积环境分区。结果表明,研究区表层沉积物类型以粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂和粉砂为主,分布范围最广的粉砂主要位于淄脉沟以北;沉积物平均粒径由近岸向莱州湾中部逐渐变细,从南向北呈现粗—细—粗的变化趋势;研究区现代沉积环境分为高能粉砂质砂粗粒沉积区、砂质粉砂过渡沉积区以及低能粉砂细粒沉积区,其水动力环境表现为波浪作用逐渐减弱,潮流作用逐渐增强,沉积物物源由近岸河流、岸滩侵蚀来沙为主变为以黄河悬浮—再悬浮物质为主。     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.     

福建诏安湾海域表层沉积物粒度特征及输运趋势分析

通过对诏安湾海域6个站位的水文泥沙观测和181个表层沉积物样品的粒度分析,结合海湾水深地形,应用Gao?Collins粒径输运模型和系统聚类分析方法,分析研究了福建诏安湾海域的粒度参数分布特征、表层沉积物的运移趋势和沉积环境划分及其动力机制.结果表明,诏安湾表层沉积物共6种类型,以黏土质粉砂和砂为主,平均粒径介于0.5...     

An Analytic-Numerical Solution of Wave Transformation

An analytic-numerical solution of wave transformation in shoaling water is presented in this paper. The analytical expression for wave heights along the wave rays is derived in consideration of the combined effect of water depth shoaling, the wave refraction and the sea bottom friction. The wave rays (orthogonals) are calculated by a fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm and the wave crest lines are computed by an iteration procedure. The numerical results are compared with analytical solution for a special case of parallel- straight contour shore and field data, and comparisons show that the proposed mathematical model and computation method are very useful and convenient for engineering application.     

Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

A Boussinesq Equation-Based Model for Nearshore Wave Breaking

Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally‘ s analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution within the wave breaking zone. This enhances the applicability of the model. Computational results of shoaling, location of wave breaking, wave-height decay after wave breaking, set-down and set-up for incident regular waves are shown to have good agreement with experimental and field data.     

天津塘沽驴驹河-独流减河潮间带沉积物特征研究

通过对研究区潮间带36个表层沉积物的定位采样,采用综合法对样品进行粒度分析。结果表明,研究区潮间带表层沉积物由-粉砂质极细砂、极细砂-粉砂-粘土、粉砂-粘土-极细砂、极细砂质粉砂、极细砂-粉砂、粉砂和极细砂组成,从岸边向潮下带方向表层沉积物由细变粗;由于修建海滨浴场,改变了岸线的轮廓使水流发生变化,从驴驹河-独流减河潮间带表层沉积物粒度由粗变细;垂向上,由于修建海防公路造成岸线后退,沉积物表现为下粗上细,这些特征与本地区的人类活动和水动力条件变化密切相关。     

青岛海岸带及邻近海域地形和沉积物类型研究

研究了青岛海岸带及邻近海域的地形特征、沉积物类型及分布特征。总体看来,沿海岸粒度较粗,为砂、粉砂质砂等,向海深处粒度有逐渐变细的趋势,海深处的沉积物主要为砂—粉砂—黏土,局部为粉砂质黏土、黏土质粉砂和黏土质砂。灵山岛周围,沉积物粒度较粗。胶州湾口内外为一海底深槽,水深流急,冲刷强烈,沉积物粒度非常粗,主要为粗砂、中砂,局部有基岩出露。深槽南北两侧各有一条突出海底的砂脊,平行于深槽延伸方向砂脊由中砂组成,混有少量黏土,北侧砂脊表面呈不规则起伏,南侧砂脊表面则较为平整。胶州湾内沉积物粒度总体较细,主要为粉砂质黏土、黏土质粉砂及砂—粉砂—黏土等。根据沉积物类型及分布特征,可把青岛海岸带及邻近海域的沉积划分为4个沉积区:胶州湾口及滨岸现代沉积区、北部浅海沉积区、南部浅海沉积区和残留—残余沉积区。     

浅海声反射损失的实验研究

本文介绍在水深40—90米的浅海海域中三种类型沉积层海底上,用爆炸声源进行的海底反射损失的实验研究结果。实验结果与按均匀半空间底模型计算所得海底反射损失的理论曲线作了比较。结果表明:反射损失值明显地与底的类型有关,细砂底的反射损失较小,粉砂质泥次之,而粉砂质粘土的反射损失较大;对于同类型的海底,孔隙度大者反射损失也较大。此外,还讨论了沉积物中场速的两种经验公式的适用性。     

海南岛崖州湾表层沉积物空间分布特征及其受控机制

基于崖州湾海域141个表层沉积物粒度分析数据,研究表层沉积物的粒级组分、粒度参数及其沉积动力环境特征。结果表明,研究区底质类型主要有泥质砂质砾、砾质泥质砂、砂、粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂和粉砂6种,砂质粉砂分布最为广泛;粒径总体趋势表现为自北向南由细变粗再变细的NEE条带状分布特征,分选系数总体偏高,反映了该区复杂的物源和水动力条件。运用Flemming三角图式,结合粒度象、研究区物源、水动力条件及地形特征,将研究区划分为3个沉积环境:近岸主要受控于波浪掀沙和搬运作用,粒径较细,表现为波控沉积特征;中部主要受控于径流、波浪和潮流共同作用,粒径粗,分选差,表现为河口沉积特征;南部主要受控于潮流输沙作用,波浪作用减弱,粒径细,分选相对较好,表现为相对低能的沉积环境。沉积物输移趋势分析显示研究区中西部为一沉积物汇聚中心,近岸侵蚀物质、宁远河输运物质以及外海潮流输运物质均向该处运移。     

渤海湾西岸潮间带沉积物粒度分布特征

根据2003年12月在渤海湾西岸海河口南缘至歧口间岸段采集的4个柱状沉积物样品和6个表层样品的粒度分析结果,探讨了渤海湾西岸潮间带的粒度分布特征和沉积作用。结果表明,由北向南,表层沉积物逐渐变细,分选性变差。海河口南缘至独流减河之间的表层沉积物为分选良好的细砂,至歧口附近变为粉砂质粘土。在垂直方向上,表层以下一定深度内沉积物的平均粒径都存在一均匀层,层内沉积物为分选良好的细砂,此深度以下沉积物中的粘土含量增加。说明由于60年代之后的自然变化和人类活动,入海泥沙量减少,改变了潮间带沉积物原有的输沙与海滩发育模式,导致独流减河以北的砂质沉积物出现粗化现象。     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

海南岛新海湾海滩地貌状态与海岸泥沙纵向运动特征

根据１９９０年现场调查及前期观察资料，论述了海南岛新海弧形海湾不同岸段由主要动力驱动过程和海滩地貌结构组成的４种海滩地貌状态，为Ⅰ．隐蔽段消散类型，Ⅱ．脊－沟体系与低潮台地类型，Ⅲ．韵律海滩与砂坝类型，Ⅳ．开敞段消散类型。应用泥沙粒级参数概率模型分析近岸泥沙纵向运动趋势，结果表明，常波况下，沿岸泥沙存在双向运动，湾顶海滩为汇集地带，泥沙纵向运动主趋势为西南向；高能条件下，海岸北段可出现北向泥沙运动     

潮流场对渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布的控制作用

运用二维潮流数学模型，模拟了渤、黄、东海陆架的M2潮汐、潮流。结果表明，渤、黄、东海陆架的潮流有强弱之分以及往复流和旋转汉之别。在此基础上，计算了8种粒径沙的湖平均悬移输沙率、潮平均推移输沙以及相应的输沙率散度。根据输沙率散度的正负，划分了海底冲刷区与淤积区。根据不同粒径泥沙输沙率散度的相对大小，确定出海底的主要底质类型为砂质沉积、粉砂质泥沉积和以粉砂为主的混合沉积。计算结果表明，海底3种主要底负类型的分布格局与海底的冲淤格局以及与输沙率矢量的发散和聚合状况基本一致。在渤、黄、东海陆架，沙脊主要在强往复流区形成，沙席主要在强或较强的旋转流区形成，泥质沉积主要在弱潮流区形成。砂质沉积、泥质沉积以及混合沉积这3种主要底质类型并非孤立存在，而是受渤、黄、东海陆架潮流场控制而形成的一个完整的潮流沉积体系。渤、黄、东海陆架的砂质沉积与泥质沉积并非残留沉积，而是潮流沉积。在没有冷涡的情况下，黄、东海陆架的典型泥质沉积在弱潮流环境中同样可以形成，因此，认为冷涡并非黄、东海陆架典型泥质沉积形成的必要条件。     

The FUNWAVE model application and its validation using laboratory data

In this paper, the performance of a well known and widespread Boussinesq model is evaluated for its ability to predict deep waters and shoaling zone velocity and elevation, comparing them with laboratory data. The model evaluation places emphasis on the parameters of the wave field that could be used for the prediction of coastal phenomena. It was found that the model proved its ability to predict regular wave velocity and elevation both in deep waters and shoaling zones right up to the breaking region. In contrast to previous works found in literature, the comparisons in this case are not limited to modelled and measured wave elevations, but also involve horizontal velocities. As a result, experimental and computed time series of wave elevations and horizontal velocities and their corresponding phase-averaged values are investigated along the wave channel, showing a good performance of the model.     

深圳湾人造沙滩选址和修复方案

深圳湾经过近三十年的围填海活动,沿岸动力条件发生较大变化,如今自然状态下难以发育沙滩。从构建高品质游憩空间、防护海岸和提升旅游开发价值来看,沙滩是深圳湾急需的资源。为了加强人和海洋的联系、激发深圳湾的活力,建立城市自然缓冲区、化解极端风暴的威胁,以此达到防护海岸和满足居民休闲游赏需求的目的,本研究以近岸海洋要素的自然属性为主,海洋开发活动等社会属性为辅进行综合分析,并辅以数值模型进行验证,在深圳湾内选择适宜开展沙滩修复的海岸。沙滩修复选址时考虑了波浪、潮流、地形、地貌、沉积物等近岸海洋要素;数值模型包括潮流场模型、波浪模型和沙滩长期的平面演化模型。本研究案例对岸线动态变迁较大,自然状态难以发育沙滩的海岸的人造沙滩选址和设计方案提供示范与借鉴。     

闽江口外海域全新统地震地层学特征和沉积作用

本文采用高分辨率单道浅地震剖面资料研究闽江口外海域的全新统沉积作用。研究区的全新统底面为MIS 2期侵蚀面,局部为古河道,深度一般在现海面下约30～60 m,最深约65 m;近岸浅,外海深,局部受古河道的下切影响呈条带状负地形。全新统由早全新世晚期以来的海相沉积层(U1)和早全新世河流湖沼相沉积层(U2)组成,前者包括滨浅海平行地震相和河口滨岸前积地震相,根据其反射波向陆上超和向海下超底界面,结合沉积物厚度分布特征,可以判断主要的沉积物来源和运移趋势。全新统沉积层厚度一般为10～20 m,最厚约38 m,位于古河道区,但是在马祖列岛和白犬列岛之间海区缺失。海相全新统沉积层的厚度为数米至20 m,最厚约25 m,位于研究区东南部(海坛岛东侧)。自全新世海侵以来,沉积物主要来源于3部分:台湾海峡来沙为研究区南部海区提供了沉积物;闽江悬沙扩散沉积物覆盖研究区北部海区,主要沿NE方向至外海,在河口向南呈舌状,现代沉积中心位于河口北部,厚度大于15 m;浙闽沿岸流来沙对研究区东北部海区的沉积物有影响。沉积环境划分为台湾海峡源沉积区、闽江源沉积区、东北部混合沉积区和马祖?白犬沉积缺失区,平均沉积速率分别约为0.8 mm/a、1.0 mm/a、1.1 mm/a和0 mm/a。马祖?白犬沉积缺失区主要因为沉积物受沿岛环流的控制。     

Trend and dynamic cause of sediment particle size on the adjacent continental shelf of the Yangtze Estuary

Based on the measured data in recent 20 years, the variation trends of the median grain size of the surface sediment, the sand-silt boundary and the mud area on the adjacent continental shelf of the Yangtze Estuary were analyzed in depth, and the effects of natural mechanism and human activities were discussed. The results show that:(1) In recent years(2006-2013), the median grain size of sediment and the distribution pattern of grouped sediments in the adjacent continental shelf area to the Yangtze Estuary have presented no obvious change compared with those before 2006;(2) The median diameter of the surface sediment in the continental shelf area displayed a coarsening trend with the decrease of sediment discharge from the basin and the drop in suspended sediment concentration in the shore area;(3) In 2004-2007, the sand-silt boundary in the north part(31°30′N) of the continental shelf area presented no significant changes, while that in the south part(31°30′S) moved inwards; In 2008-2013, both the sand-silt boundaries in the north and south parts of the continental shelf area moved inwards, mainly due to the fact that in the dry season, a relatively enhanced hydrodynamic force of the tides was generated in the Yangtze River, as well as a decreased suspended sediment concentration and a flow along the banks in North Jiangsu;(4) The mud area where the maximum deposition rate is found in the Yangtze Estuary, tends to shrink due to the drop in sediment discharge from the basin, and the decrease in suspended sediment concentration in the shore area and erosion in the delta. Moreover, it tended to shift to the south at the same time because the implement of the training works on the deep-water channel of the North Passage changed the split ratio between the North and South Passages with an increase in the power of the discharged runoff in the South Passage.     

北黄海西部海底沉积物的粒度特征和净输运趋势

根据对北黄西部海底沉积物的粒度测试,运用“粒度趋势分析”方法,分析探讨了北黄海西部（渤海海峡区）海底表层底质的粒度分布特征和净输运趋势,结果表明,本区的细颗粒沉积物主要位于北黄海中部和山东半岛沿岸,大连湾附近,粗颗粒沉积物则主要分布于庙岛群岛以东和大连湾东南侧海区,沉积物的平均粒径、分选系数、偏态系数闰度参数的分布特征有一定的对应性,除庙岛群东侧的砂质沉积,分选较好之外,其它海区的沉积物总体特征是,粒径越粗,分选越差,偏态更正偏;而粒径越细,分选越好,偏态系数也较低。山 岛北侧的沉积物具有向东和向东北的输运趋势,西中沉积物的输运趋势向东南并转向东,北部喾物的输运趋势向南,形成了向北黄海中部汇聚的趋势,本碛研究还表明“粒度趋势分析”方法在大范围的陆架区域具有较好的适用性,在操作中,使用规则的正方形网格可以较全面判