Bathymetric control of surf zone retention on a rip-channelled beach

Simulations from a numerical model address the impact of nearshore morphology on surf zone retention on, open coast, rip-channelled beaches exposed to shore-normal waves. In the model, rip channels are regularly spaced alongshore with a given spacing λ. For a given reference case bathymetry (λ= 200 m), rip current circulations retain floating material at a hourly rate R of about 80 % which is in line with most existing field and laboratory studies in similar settings. The influence of a surf zone rip-channel morphology on surf zone retention is evaluated by a number of morphologic parameters. Results show that rip spacing is important. The ratio of the surf zone width X _s to rip spacing λ controls surf zone retention with R rapidly increasing with increasing X _s /λ up to a threshold of about 1 above which R levels off to become asymptotic to 100 %. The impact of the presence of a rip head bar is profound but nonlinear. The onset of wave breaking across the rip head bar drives a weak seaward located circulation providing major pathways for surface water exiting the surf zone compartment. Additional simulations suggest that alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry are important. Patterns in the wave field enforced by wave refraction and potentially wave breaking across offshore bathymetric anomalies can provide a conduit for transporting floating material out of the surf zone and into the inner shelf region. This has major implications for surf zone flushing by inner-bar rips on multiple-barred beaches and on beaches facing bathymetric anomalies on the inner shelf.     

Altimetry-Derived Gravity Predictions of Bathymetry by the Gravity-Geologic Method

The gravity-geologic method (GGM) was implemented for 2′ by 2′ bathymetric determinations in a 1.6° longitude-by-1.0° latitude region centered on the eastern end of the Shackleton Fracture Zone in the Drake Passage, Antarctica. The GGM used the Bouguer slab approximation to process satellite altimetry-derived marine free-air gravity anomalies and 6,548 local shipborne bathymetric sounding measurements from the Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute to update the surrounding off-track bathymetry. The limitations of the Bouguer slab for modeling the gravity effects of variable density, rugged bathymetric relief at distances up to several kilometers, were mitigated by establishing ‘tuning’ densities that stabilized the GGM predictions. Tests using two-thirds of the shipborne bathymetric measurements to estimate the remaining third indicated that the tuning densities minimized root-mean-square deviations to about 29 m. The optimum GGM bathymetry model honoring all the ship observations correlated very well with widely available bathymetry models, despite local differences that ranged up to a few kilometers. The great analytical simplicity of GGM facilitates accurately and efficiently updating bathymetry as new gravity and bathymetric sounding data become available. Furthermore, the availability of marine free-air gravity anomaly data ensures that the GGM is more effective than simply extrapolating or interpolating ship bathymetry coverage into unmapped regions.     

Optimizing spectral wave estimates with adjoint-based sensitivity maps

A discrete numerical adjoint has recently been developed for the stochastic wave model SWAN. In the present study, this adjoint code is used to construct spectral sensitivity maps for two nearshore domains. The maps display the correlations of spectral energy levels throughout the domain with the observed energy levels at a selected location or region of interest (LOI/ROI), providing a full spectrum of values at all locations in the domain. We investigate the effectiveness of sensitivity maps based on significant wave height (H _s ) in determining alternate offshore instrument deployment sites when a chosen nearshore location or region is inaccessible. Wave and bathymetry datasets are employed from one shallower, small-scale domain (Duck, NC) and one deeper, larger-scale domain (San Diego, CA). The effects of seasonal changes in wave climate, errors in bathymetry, and multiple assimilation points on sensitivity map shapes and model performance are investigated. Model accuracy is evaluated by comparing spectral statistics as well as with an RMS skill score, which estimates a mean model–data error across all spectral bins. Results indicate that data assimilation from identified high-sensitivity alternate locations consistently improves model performance at nearshore LOIs, while assimilation from low-sensitivity locations results in lesser or no improvement. Use of sub-sampled or alongshore-averaged bathymetry has a domain-specific effect on model performance when assimilating from a high-sensitivity alternate location. When multiple alternate assimilation locations are used from areas of lower sensitivity, model performance may be worse than with a single, high-sensitivity assimilation point.     

Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 1: patterns and physical explanation

Crescentic sandbars and rip channels along wave‐dominated sandy beaches are relevant to understand localized beach and dune erosion during storms. In recent years, a paradigm shift from hydrodynamic template models to self‐organization mechanisms occurred to explain the formation of these rhythmic features. In double sandbar systems, both the inner‐ and outer‐bar rip channels and crescentic planshapes are now believed to be free instabilities of the nearshore system arising through self‐organization mechanisms alone. However, the occasional occurrence of one or two inner‐bar rip channels within one outer‐bar crescent suggests a forced, morphologically coupled origin. Here we use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to show that alongshore variability in outer‐bar depth, and the relative importance of wave breaking versus wave focussing by refraction across the outer bar, is crucial to the inner‐bar rip channel development. The coupling patterns simulated by our model are similar to those observed in the field. Morphological coupling requires a template in the morphology (outer‐bar geometry) which, through the positive feedback between flow, sediment transport and the evolving morphology (that is, self‐organization) enforces the development of coupling patterns. We therefore introduce a novel mechanism that blurs the distinction between self‐organization and template mechanisms. This mechanism may also be extended to explain the dynamics of other nearshore patterns, such as beach cusps. The impact of this novel mechanism on the alongshore variability of inner‐bar rip channels is investigated in the companion paper. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Local and remote response of the North Sea dynamics to morphodynamic changes in the Wadden Sea

The response of the tidal system in the southern North Sea to morphodynamic changes was investigated in a modelling study using fine resolution bathymetric observations available for 1982–2011. The Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model (SCHISM) was set up for the different sets of bathymetries. One set of bathymetry was compiled from a large number of bathymetric measurements over many years, while the other two reflected bathymetry state in the area of Wadden Sea during 2000 and 2011, respectively. The temporal and spatial evolution of bathymetry was dominated by migration of tidal channels. The M4 tide showed larger sensitivity to bathymetric change in the Wadden Sea than the M2 tide, whereas the structure of the latter remained rather robust. The largest change of the tidal wave due to the differences in bathymetries was located off the North Frisian Wadden Sea. Traces of changes were also found far away from the regions of their origin because the tidal waves in the North Sea propagate the local disturbances basin-wide. This illustrated an efficient physical mechanism of teleconnectivity, i.e. effecting the local responses to the larger-scale or remote change of ocean bottom caused by erosion and deposition. The tidal distortion resulting from the relatively small bathymetric changes was substantial, particularly in the coastal zone. This is a manifestation of the nonlinear tidal transformation in shallow oceans and is crucial for the sediment transport and the morphodynamic feedback, because of the altered tidal asymmetry.     

Sand wave migration near the southeastern corner of Martha's Vineyard,Massachusetts, USA

Sand waves of approximately 2 m in height were observed to migrate nearly 40 m with counterclockwise rotation between two bathymetric surveys performed three months apart near the southeastern corner of Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts. The region is characterized by strong tidal currents, intermittent energetic surface wave events, and shallow water with local depth ranging from 2 to 7 m. This study uses the process-based model, Delft3D, with a three-dimensional approach to examine the sand wave dynamics by incorporating surface waves, winds, currents, and bathymetric observations. The model successfully simulates sand wave migration in comparisons to observations. Model sensitivity analyses show that the sand wave migration reduces by 65% with the absence of the surface waves. The modeled sand wave migration speed is correlated with the tidal current Shields parameter, and sharp increases in migration speed occur when the wave-driven Shields parameter increases in response to energetic surface wave events. The combined effect of tides, surface waves, and bathymetry is the origin of the rotational aspect of the sand wave, using the Shields parameter as an indicator of tidal currents and surface wave influence on sand wave dynamics.     

Spectrally based remote sensing of river bathymetry

This paper evaluates the potential for remote mapping of river bathymetry by (1) examining the theoretical basis of a simple, ratio‐based technique for retrieving depth information from passive optical image data; (2) performing radiative transfer simulations to quantify the effects of suspended sediment concentration, bottom reflectance, and water surface state; (3) assessing the accuracy of spectrally based depth retrieval under field conditions via ground‐based reflectance measurements; and (4) producing bathymetric maps for a pair of gravel‐bed rivers from hyperspectral image data. Consideration of the relative magnitudes of various radiance components allowed us to define the range of conditions under which spectrally based depth retrieval is appropriate: the remotely sensed signal must be dominated by bottom‐reflected radiance. We developed a simple algorithm, called optimal band ratio analysis (OBRA), for identifying pairs of wavelengths for which this critical assumption is valid and which yield strong, linear relationships between an image‐derived quantity X and flow depth d. OBRA of simulated spectra indicated that water column optical properties were accounted for by a shorter‐wavelength numerator band sensitive to scattering by suspended sediment while depth information was provided by a longer‐wavelength denominator band subject to strong absorption by pure water. Field spectra suggested that bottom reflectance was fairly homogeneous, isolating the effect of depth, and that radiance measured above the water surface was primarily reflected from the bottom, not the water column. OBRA of these data, 28% of which were collected during a period of high turbidity, yielded strong X versus d relations (R² from 0·792 to 0·976), demonstrating that accurate depth retrieval is feasible under field conditions. Moreover, application of OBRA to hyperspectral image data resulted in spatially coherent, hydraulically reasonable bathymetric maps, though negative depth estimates occurred along channel margins where pixels were mixed. This study indicates that passive optical remote sensing could become a viable tool for measuring river bathymetry. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Can recreational echosounder-chartplotter systems be used to perform accurate nearshore bathymetric surveys?

This work intends to determine if low-cost surveying techniques based on recreational echosounders can be used to perform nearshore bathymetry for analysing evolution of coastal sectors. For that purpose, two hydrographic surveying techniques were compared, i.e. (1) a real-time kinematic differential global positioning system (RTK-DGPS) synchronised with a single beam echosounder with real-time tidal elevation correction and (2) a low-cost recreational echosounder-chartplotter system using Global Navigation Satellite Systems (GNSS) with real-time European Geostationary Navigation Overlay Service (EGNOS) augmentation services and depth values post-processed using measured sea level. Two bathymetric data sets were obtained, one by each method, for the same area and survey lines at an ebb tidal delta (Tavira Inlet, Ria Formosa Portugal). Vertical differences were determined assuming no morphological variations between surveys. Results showed that depth elevation differences between bathymetric surfaces were of 0.10?±?0.16 m, slightly higher but within the same order of the error attributable to the used interpolator (0.00?±?0.11 m, triangular surface fitting). The differences between surveys performed with two different equipment sets and using different methodologies for correcting water elevations are very small both quantitative and qualitatively. Those differences can be diminished by improving the tidal level correction and uncertainties associated to different tidal slopes throughout the survey area. Pitch/roll corrections performed with low-cost GPS receivers would be also a valuable addition to the accuracy and precision of the method. It is then concluded that navigation with EGNOS augmentation services and sounding devices ten times cheaper than combined RTK-DGPS with single beam echosounders allow to measure and monitor accurately the nearshore bathymetry.     

Sensitivity of Simulated Hyporheic Exchange to River Bathymetry: The Steinlach River Test Site

This study determines the aspects of river bathymetry that have the greatest influence on the predictive biases when simulating hyporheic exchange. To investigate this, we build a highly parameterized HydroGeoSphere model of the Steinlach River Test Site in southwest Germany as a reference. This model is then modified with simpler bathymetries, evaluating the changes to hyporheic exchange fluxes and transit time distributions. Results indicate that simulating hyporheic exchange with a high-resolution detailed bathymetry using a three-dimensional fully coupled model leads to nested multiscale hyporheic exchange systems. A poorly resolved bathymetry will underestimate the small-scale hyporheic exchange, biasing the simulated hyporheic exchange towards larger scales, thus leading to overestimates of hyporheic exchange residence times. This can lead to gross biases in the estimation of a catchment's capacity to attenuate pollutants when extrapolated to account for all meanders along an entire river within a watershed. The detailed river slope alone is not enough to accurately simulate the locations and magnitudes of losing and gaining river reaches. Thus, local bedforms in terms of bathymetric highs and lows within the river are required. Bathymetry surveying campaigns can be more effective by prioritizing bathymetry measurements along the thalweg and gegenweg of a meandering channel. We define the gegenweg as the line that connects the shallowest points in successive cross-sections along a river opposite to the thalweg under average flow conditions. Incorporating local bedforms will likely capture the nested nature of hyporheic exchange, leading to more physically meaningful simulations of hyporheic exchange fluxes and transit times.     

Characterizing uncertainties for quantifying bathymetry change between time-separated multibeam echo-sounder surveys

Changes of bathymetry derived from multibeam sonars are useful for quantifying the effects of many sedimentary, tectonic and volcanic processes, but depth changes also require an assessment of their uncertainty. Here, we outline and illustrate a simple technique that aims both to quantify uncertainties and to help reveal the spatial character of errors. An area of immobile seafloor is mapped in each survey, providing a common ‘benchmark’. Each survey dataset over the benchmark is filtered with a simple moving-averaging window and depth differences between the two surveys are collated to derive a difference histogram. The procedure is repeated using different length-scales of filtering. By plotting the variability of the differences versus the length-scale of the filter, the different effects of spatially uncorrelated and correlated noise can be deduced. The former causes variability to decrease systematically as predicted by the Central Limit Theorem, whereas the remaining variability not predicted by the Central Limit Theorem then represents the effect of spatially correlated noise. Calculations made separately for different beams can reveal whether problems are due to heave, roll, etc., which affect inner and outer beams differently. We show how the results can be applied to create a map of uncertainties, which can be used to remove insignificant data from the bathymetric change map. We illustrate the technique by characterizing changes in nearshore bed morphology over one annual cycle using data from a subtidal bay, bedrock headland and a banner sand bank in the Bristol Channel UK.     

Improved seawater depth determination using corrected helicopter time-domain electromagnetic data

Two areas within Sydney Harbour were surveyed in 2002 with a helicopter‐borne time‐domain electromagnetic system to test its potential for bathymetric mapping in shallow seawater. As delivered, the data were improperly calibrated. Therefore a re‐calibration was performed to reconcile the measured data with ‘ground truth’. Synthetic electromagnetic transients were computed for two‐layer models representing the seawater and the sediment overlying bedrock at a number of locations within the survey area. The seawater depth in the models varied between 3 m and 70 m. The measured and calculated data were compared at each delay time, and were found to be linearly related. The slope and intercept of the line of best fit were used to correct all the measured data. Inversion of the corrected time‐domain electromagnetic data generally resolved the bathymetry to submetre accuracy down to depths of about 55 m.     

Effect of transect location,transect spacing and interpolation methods on river bathymetry accuracy

Digital elevation models (DEMs) of river channel bathymetries are developed by interpolating elevations between data collected at discrete points or along transects. The accuracy of interpolated bathymetries depends on measurement error, the density and distribution of point data, and the interpolation method. Whereas point measurement errors can be minimized by selecting the most efficient equipment, the effect of data density and interpolation method on river bathymetry is relatively unknown. Thus, this study focuses on transect‐based collection methods and investigates the effects of transect location, the spacing between transects, and interpolation methods on the accuracy of interpolated bathymetry. This is accomplished by comparing four control bathymetries generated from accurate and high resolution, sub‐meter scale data to bathymetries interpolated from transect data extracted from the control bathymetries using two transect locating methods and four interpolation methods. The transect locating methods are a morphologically‐spaced and an equally‐spaced model. The four interpolation methods are Ordinary Kriging, Delaunay Triangulation, and Simple Linear, which are applied in curvilinear coordinates (Delaunay Triangulation is also applied in Cartesian coordinates), and Natural Neighbor only in Cartesian Coordinates. The bathymetric data were obtained from morphologically simple and complex reaches of a large (average bankfull width = 90 m) and a small (average bankfull width = 17 m) river. The accuracy of the developed DEMs is assessed using statistical analysis of the differences between the control and interpolated bathymetries and hydraulic parameters assessed from bankfull water surface elevations. Results indicate that DEM accuracy is not influenced by the choice of transect location method (with same averaged cross‐section spacing) or a specific interpolation method, but rather by the coordinate system for which the interpolation method is applied and the spacing between transects. They also show negligible differences between the mean depths and surface areas calculated from bathymetries with dense or coarse spacing. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Establishing the wave climate influence on the morphodynamics of a coastal lagoon inlet

The morphologic changes in estuaries and coastal lagoons are very complex and constitute a challenging task in coastal research. The bathymetric changes result from the combined action of tides, waves, rivers discharge and wind stress in the area of interest. Additionally, an accurate knowledge of the sediment transport is essential to achieve a good morphological characterization. This work establishes the influence of the wave climate on the morphodynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet by analysing the numerical results of the morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The numerical simulations considered a realistic coupled forcing of tidal currents and waves. The computed sediment fluxes and bathymetric changes are analysed and compared with the erosion and accretion trends obtained from the numerical simulations forced only by tidal currents, in order to establish the wave climate influence. The final bathymetry and the corresponding changes are compared with bathymetric data collected through surveys. It is concluded that: (a) the morphodynamics of the study area is dominated by the wave regime in the lagoon inlet and nearshore areas, while in the inner areas is tidally dominated; and (b) the inclusion of the wave regime forcing constitutes an improvement in order to accurately reproduce the local morphodynamics.     

Ice Sheet And Satellite Altimetry

Since 1991, the altimeters of the ERS European Satellites allow the observation of 80% of the Antarctica ice sheet and the whole Greenland ice sheet: They thus offer for the first time a unique vision of polar ice caps. Indeed, surface topography is an essential data thanks to its capacity to highlight the physical processes which control the surface shape, or to test models. Moreover, the altimeter is also a radar which makes it possible to estimate the snow surface or subsurface characteristics, such as surface roughness induced by the strong katabatic wind or ice grain size. The polar ice caps may not be in a stationary state, they continue to respond to the climatic warming of the beginning of the Holocene, that is 18000 years ago, and possibly start to react to present climatic warming: the altimeter offers the unique means of estimating the variations of volume and thus the contribution of polar ice caps to present sea level change.     

State dynamics of a double sandbar system

A 9.3-year dataset of low-tide time-exposure images from Surfers Paradise, Northern Gold Coast, Australia was used to characterise the state dynamics of a double sandbar system. The morphology of the nearshore sandbars was described by means of the sequential bar state classification scheme of Wright and Short [1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93-118]. Besides the two end members (the dissipative (D) and the reflective (R) states) and the four intermediate states (longshore bar and trough (LBT), rhythmic bar and beach (RBB), transverse bar and rip (TBR) and low tide terrace (LTT)), we identified two additional intermediate bar states. The erosive transverse bar and rip (eTBR) state related to the dominant oblique angle of wave incidence at the study site and the rhythmic low tide terrace (rLTT) related to the multiple bar setting. Using the alongshore barline variability and alongshore trough continuity as morphological indicators enabled the objective classification of the inner and outer bar states from the images. The outer bar was mostly in the TBR state and generally advanced sequentially through the states LBT-RBB-TBR-eTBR-LBT, with occasional transitions to the D state. Wave events led to abrupt state transitions of the outer bar, but, in contrast to expectations, did not necessarily correspond to upstate transitions. Instead, upstate (downstate) transitions coincided with angles of wave incidence θ larger (smaller) than 30°. The upstate TBR-eTBR-LBT sequence during high-angle events highlights the role of alongshore currents in bar straightening. The outer bar was found to govern the state of the inner bar to a large extent. Two types of inner bar behaviour were distinguished, based on the outer bar state. For intermediate outer bar states, the alongshore variability of the dominant inner rLTT state (52% in time) mainly related to that of the outer bar, implying some sort of morphological coupling. For dissipative outer bar states, however, the more upstate inner bar frequently separated from the shoreline and persistently developed rip channels as TBR became the most frequent state (60% in time).     

Assessment of the decadal morphodynamic evolution of a mixed energy inlet using ocean color remote sensing

A consistent time series of synoptic and high-frequency bathymetric observations is fundamental to improving our understanding and predictive capabilities regarding the morphological behavior of large coastal inlets. Based on satellite observations, an original approach is proposed to characterize the long-term morphological evolution of the Arcachon lagoon inlet and to describe sediment bypassing and breaching mechanisms. The almost 26-year-long remotely sensed data archive used in this study is built from 78 suitable SPOT images (1986–2012) collected in the framework of the KALIDEOS-Littoral program. Bathymetric information is derived from satellite data using a physics-based model. A validation exercise performed on a large bathymetric survey data set (N?=?43,949) demonstrates that the inversion model performs excellently in estimating the depth of mildly to moderately turbid shallow waters. The performance of the model suggests that the minimum requirements are fulfilled to apply the SPOT-derived bathymetry to morphodynamic applications. We demonstrate that high-spatial-resolution multispectral sensors are well adapted to analyzing the morphological evolution of small- (i.e., sand dunes), medium- (i.e., sandbanks and channels), and large- (i.e., the entire inlet-lagoon system) scale sedimentary structures present in coastal inlets. For the first time, the long-term evolution of a flood and ebb-tidal delta is characterized by observations at a seasonal timescale. Finally, migration rates of sedimentary entities are quantified, and fundamental mechanisms driving the sediment transport cross the inlet are confirmed.     

Observations on sandbar behaviour along a man‐made curved coast

Sandbars, submerged ridges of sand parallel to the shoreline, affect surfzone circulation, beach topography and beach width. Under time‐varying wave forcing, sandbars may migrate onshore and offshore, referred to as two‐dimensional (2D) behaviour, and vary in planshape from alongshore uniform ridges to alongshore non‐uniform ridges through the growth and decay of three‐dimensional (3D) patterns, referred to as 3D behaviour. Although 2D and 3D sandbar behaviour is reasonably well understood along straight coasts, this is not the case for curved coasts, where the curvature can invoke spatial variability in wave forcing. Here, we analyse sandbar behaviour along the ～3000 m man‐made curved coastline of the Sand Engine, Netherlands, and determine the wave conditions governing this behaviour. 2D and 3D behaviour was quantified within a box north and west of the Sand Engine's tip, respectively, using a 2.4‐year dataset of daily low‐tide video images and a sparser bathymetric dataset. The northern and western sides behaved similarly in terms of 2D behaviour, with seasonal onshore and offshore migration, resulting in a stable position on inter‐annual timescales. However, both sandbar geometry and 3D behaviour differed substantially between both sides. The geometric differences (bar shape, bar crest depth and wavelength of 3D patterns) are consistent with computed alongshore differences in breaker height due to refraction. The differences in the timing in growth, decay and morphological coupling of 3D patterns in the sandbar and shoreline are likely related to differences in the local wave angle, imposed by the curved coast. Similar dependency of bar behaviour on local wave height and angle may be expected elsewhere along curved coasts, e.g. shoreline sandwaves, cuspate forelands or embayed beaches. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Observations and conceptual modelling of morphological coupling in a double sandbar system

Nearshore sandbars, located in <10 m water depth, can contain remarkably periodic alongshore undulations in both cross‐shore position and depth. In a double sandbar system, the alongshore spacing of these morphological patterns in the inner sandbar may be identical to those in the outer sandbar. Although this morphological coupling has been observed previously, its frequency and predominance remain unclear. In this paper, we use a 9.3‐year dataset of daily low‐tide time exposure images from the double‐barred beach at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) to analyse the temporal and spatial characteristics of morphological coupling within a double sandbar system. We distinguish five types of morphological coupling between the inner and outer sandbars, of which four coincide with a downstate progression of the outer bar. Coupling is either in‐phase (with a landward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn) or out‐of‐phase (with a seaward perturbation of the inner bar facing an outer‐bar horn), where the coupled inner‐bar features either consist of rip channels or, predominantly, perturbations of the low‐tide terrace. Cross‐correlation of the image‐derived inner‐ and outer‐bar patterns shows coupling to be a common phenomenon in the double sandbar system studied here, with coupling in 40% of the observations. In contrast to previous observations of sandbar–shoreline coupling at single‐barred beaches, in‐phase coupling (85% of all coupled bar patterns) predominates over out‐of‐phase coupling (15%). Based on our observations and bathymetries assimilated from the images for a restricted set of coupling events, we hypothesize that the angle of offshore wave incidence, wave height and depth variations along the outer sandbar determine the type of flow pattern (cell circulations versus meandering currents) above the inner bar and hence steer the type of coupling. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Stratigraphic spatial variation on the inner shelf of a high-yield river,Waiapu River,New Zealand: Implications for fine-sediment dispersal and preservation

The inner shelves of active, energetic continental margins are frequently defined as regions of sediment segregation and fine-sediment bypassing. The Waiapu River, North Island, New Zealand presents an opportunity to study fine-sediment segregation and strata formation in a spatially constrained, highly energetic, aggradational setting, with one of the highest sediment yields on earth. We present evidence that the inner shelf of the Waiapu River plays a significant role in both the fate of fine-grained (<63 μm) riverine sediments and the formation of continental margin stratigraphy. Results obtained from high-resolution interferometric bathymetry and high-frequency seismic mapping ground-truthed by cores show significant stratigraphic spatial variation preserved on the Waiapu inner shelf. This spatial variation is likely controlled by spatially-distinct sediment deposition and resuspension processes as well as antecedent geology. Two distinct depositional regions are interpreted as: (1) surface plume-dominated with partial resuspension, characterized by acoustically transparent seismic reflection profiles and muddy sands; and (2) event-layer dominated, characterized by thickly laminated sediments. A modern-day bathymetric low overlying an observed paleochannel may influence the fate of hyperpycnal flows transiting the shelf via bathymetric steering. Fining-upward sequences found over the entire shelf are interpreted to represent deforestation-induced sedimentation that has overwhelmed the ability of the energetic system to resuspend and segregate fine sediments. We conclude that the primary control on strata formation on the inner shelf of the Waiapu River is local sediment supply.     

Wind effects on the lateral structure of density-driven circulation in Chesapeake Bay

The response of the density-driven circulation in the Chesapeake Bay to wind forcing was studied with numerical experiments. A model of the bay with realistic bathymetry was first applied to produce the density-driven flow under average river discharge and tidal forcing. Subsequently, four spatially uniform wind fields (northeasterly, northwesterly, southwesterly, and southeasterly) were imposed to examine the resulting cross-estuary structure of salinity and flow fields. In general, northeasterly and northwesterly winds intensified the density-driven circulation in the upper and middle reaches of the bay, whereas southeasterly and southwesterly winds weakened it. The response was different in the lower bay, where downwind flow from the upper and middle reaches of the bay competed with onshore/offshore coastal flows. Wind remote effects were dominant, over local effects, on volume transports through the bay entrance. However, local effects were more influential in establishing the sea-level slopes that drove subtidal flows and salinity fields in most of the bay. The effect of vertical stratification on wind-induced flows was also investigated by switching it off. The absence of stratification allowed development of Ekman layers that reached depths of the same order as the water depth. Consequently, bathymetric effects became influential on the homogeneous flow structure causing the wind-induced flow inside the bay to show a marked transverse structure: downwind over the shallow areas and upwind in the channels. In the presence of stratification, Ekman layers became shallower and the wind-induced currents showed weaker transverse structure than those that developed in the absence of stratification. In essence, the wind-driven flows were horizontally sheared under weak stratification and vertically sheared under stratified conditions.