Imprints of wave climate and mean sea level variations in the dynamics of a coastal spit over the last 250 years: Cap Ferret,SW France

In coastal areas, sea level rise (SLR) and changing wave climates are expected to be the main oceanic drivers of shoreline adjustments. These drivers have been shown to vary on a wide spectrum of spatial and temporal scales. Nonetheless, a general rule about how this variability impacts global shorelines remains to be articulated. Here, we discuss the impacts of wave climate changes and SLR on the evolution of a barrier spit–inlet system over the last 250 years. The distal end of the Cap Ferret barrier spit, SW France, has undergone large-scale oscillations that were well correlated with variations of the decadal average of the winter North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index. The local wave climate hindcast supports that increased alongshore wave energy fluxes associated with the positive phase of the NAO were responsible for the updrift retreat of the spit. By opposition, the spit has elongated downdrift when waves were less energetic and more shore normal, as during the negative phase of the NAO. In addition, lower rates of SLR appeared to be necessary for the spit to develop, as higher rates of SLR very likely forced the adjacent inlet to enlarge, at the expense of the spit. These results should help to predict and detect coastal adjustments driven by climate change and by climate variability. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Reconstructing and understanding the impacts of storms and surges,southern North Sea

Coastal barriers are ubiquitous globally and provide a vital protective role to valuable landforms, habitats and communities located to landward. They are, however, vulnerable to extreme water levels and storm wave impacts. A detailed record of sub‐annual to annual; decadal; and centennial rates of shoreline retreat in frontages characterized by both high (> 3 m) and low (< 1 m) dunes is established for a barrier island on the UK east coast. For four storms (2006–2013) we match still water levels and peak significant wave heights against shoreline change at high levels of spatial densification. The results suggest that, at least in the short‐term, shoreline retreat, of typically 5–8 m, is primarily driven by individual events, separated by varying periods of barrier stasis. Over decadal timescales, significant inter‐decadal changes can be seen in both barrier onshore retreat rates and in barrier extension rates alongshore. Whilst the alongshore variability in barrier migration seen in the short‐term remains at the decadal scale, shoreline change at the centennial stage shows little alongshore variability between a region of barrier retreat (at 1.15 m a^?1) and one of barrier extension. A data‐mining approach, synchronizing all the variables that drive shoreline change (still water level, timing of high spring tides and peak significant wave heights), is an essential requirement for validating models that predict future shoreline responses under changing sea level and storminess. © 2016 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Two new conceptual models for the formation and degradation of baymouth spits by longshore drift and fluvial discharge (Iguape,SE Brazil)

This study describes the formation of two successive baymouth spits systems on the south‐eastern Brazilian coast and the degradation of the first system. The study area includes the Jureia Beach spit, the deflected Ribeira de Iguape River mouth, the central Iguape sandy headland, the Icapara Inlet of the Mar Pequeno Lagoon and the northern end of the Comprida Island barrier spit. The wave and river flow patterns were combined with the coastline evolution and the alongshore migration rates deduced from satellite images. Initially, both spits showed convergent alongshore migration rates equal to or less than 83 m/yr. However, the extreme river flow due to high rainfall during a very strong El Niño event in 1983 eroded the inland side of the Jureia Beach spit, which finally retreated due to wave erosion. In 1989, a sand bank emerged in the river mouth, which attached to the central headland forming a recurved northeastward spit. In 1994, the high fluvial discharge associated with another very strong El Niño event caused the landward migration of the new spit and emersion of a second sand bank. This second sand bank merged with the Jureia Beach spit in 1997 at an alongshore migration rate of 1795.6 m/yr. Wave erosion of the central headland continued and the attached spit disappeared in 2000. In 2009, the headland erosion merged the river mouth and the Icapara Inlet, which resulted in flanking baymouth spits in a configuration that remains today. Therefore, two models for the formation of baymouth spits have been documented for wave‐dominated microtidal coasts in humid tropical regions with intense fluvial discharge. The convergent longshore migration of the spits is controlled by both the bidirectional longshore drift and the fluvial discharge, the latter eroding the fronting spit, supplying sediments and acting as a hydraulic blockage for longshore drift. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Beach Morphodynamics influenced by an ebb‐tidal delta on the north Florida Atlantic coast

Tidal inlets interrupt longshore sediment transport, thereby exerting an influence on adjacent beach morphology. To investigate the details and spatial extent of an inlet's influence, we examine beach topographic change along a 1.5 km coastal reach adjacent to Matanzas Inlet, on the Florida Atlantic coast. Analyses of beach morphology reveal a behavioral change between 0.64 and 0.86 km from the inlet channel centerline, interpreted to represent the spatial extent of inlet influence. Beyond this boundary, the beach is narrow, exhibits a statistically significant inverse correlation of shoreline position with offshore wave conditions, and has a uniform alongshore pattern in temporal behavior, as determined from empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis. On the inlet side of the boundary, the beach experiences monotonic widening (with proximity to the inlet), lacks spatial consistency in correlation between shoreline position and wave conditions, and exhibits an irregular pattern in spatial EOF modes. We augment the field observations with numerical modeling that provides calculations of wave setup and nearshore current patterns near the inlet, highlighting the effects of the ebb‐tidal delta on the assailing waves. The modeling results are verified by a natural experiment that occurred during May 2009, when a storm‐produced sedimentary mass accreted to the lower beach, then subsequently split into two oppositely directed waves of sediment that migrated away from the initial accretion site in the subsequent months. Our results suggest that the ebb‐tidal delta produces a pattern of wave setup that creates a pressure gradient driving an alongshore flow that opposes the longshore currents derived from breaking of obliquely oriented incident waves. The resulting recirculation pattern on the margin of the ebb‐tidal delta provides a mechanism through which the inlet influences adjacent barrier island beach morphology. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of alongshore and cross‐shore wave energy flux on large‐ and small‐scale coastal erosion patterns

A strong low‐pressure system traveled along the Japanese main island Honshu in October 2006. High waves and storm surge attacked the Kashima Coast resulting in huge erosion over the area. Airborne laser data measured in October 2005 and November 2006 were analyzed to estimate cross‐sectional changes within the subaerial zone. The results of the alongshore distribution of the changes of cross‐sectional area indicate that the amount of erosion of the 38 km‐long northern and 15 km‐long southern parts decreased toward the south in each part and that the amount of erosion was smaller in protected areas with artificial headlands than in unprotected areas. The local alongshore variation of the erosion and accretion patterns showed wavy fluctuations of several hundreds of meters. The total amounts of the estimated eroded volume of the subaerial zone over the northern and southern parts were 620 000 m³ and 600 000 m³, respectively. The Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model was applied to estimate wave conditions along the coast during the storm. The computational results were verified, and then the alongshore distribution of wave energies, expressed as the alongshore and cross‐shore components of the wave energy flux, was compared with the alongshore distribution of cross‐sectional change. The results show that the distribution of energy flux explains the distribution of erosion well: The alongshore variability in the cross‐shore energy flux is responsible for the large‐scale variability in erosion, and shorter‐scale variability is due to gradients in the alongshore energy fluxes, especially for the areas without coastal works. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Observations on decadal sandbar behaviour along a large-scale curved shoreline

Nearshore sandbars are characteristic features of sandy surf zones and have been observed with a variety of geometries in cross-shore (e.g. location) and longshore direction (e.g. planform). Although the behaviour of sandbars has been studied extensively on spatial scales up to kilometres and timescales up to years, it remains challenging to observe and explain their behaviour on larger spatial and temporal scales, especially in locations where coastline curvature can be prominent. In this paper, we study a data set with 38 years of coastal profiles, collected with alongshore intervals of 50 m, along the 34 km-long curved sandy shoreline of Sylt island, Germany. Sylt's shoreline has an orientation difference of ~20° between the northern and southern half of the island. We found that the decadal coastal profiles on the southern half show features of a low-tide terrace and a sandbar located further from the shoreline (~441 m). On the nothern half, the sandbar was located closer to the shoreline (~267 m) and was less pronounced, while the profiles show transverse bar and rip features. The alongshore planform also differed systematically and significantly along the two island sides. The sandbar on the southern island half, with alongshore periodicity on a larger length scale (~2240 m), was coupled out-of-phase to the shoreline, while no phase coupling was observed for the sandbar with periodicity on a shorter length scale (~670 m) on the northern half. We related the observed geometric differences of the sandbars to the difference in the local wave climate along Sylt, imposed by the shoreline shape. Our observations imply that small alongshore variations in wave climate, due to the increasing shoreline curvature on larger spatial scales, can lead to significant alongshore differences in the decadal evolution of coastal profiles, sandbars and shorelines. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd     

The influence of nearshore sand bank dynamics on shoreline evolution in a macrotidal coastal environment,Calais, northern France

Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×10⁷ m³ during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.     

Global distribution of coastal cliffs

Previous studies have estimated that coastal cliffs exist on about 80% of the global shoreline, but have not been validated on a global scale. This study uses two approaches to capture information on the worldwide existence and erosion of coastal cliffs: a detailed literature survey and imagery search, and a GIS-based global mapping analysis. The literature and imagery review show coastal cliffs exist in 93% of the combined recognized independent coastal states and non-independent coastal regions worldwide (total of 213 geographic units). Additionally, cliff retreat rates have been quantified in at least one location within 33% of independent coastal states and 15% of non-independent regions. The GIS-based mapping used the near-global Shuttle Radar Topography Mission 3 arc second digital elevation model and Arctic Coastal Dynamics Database to obtain near-global backshore coastal elevations at 1 km alongshore intervals comprising about 1,340,000 locations (81% of the world vector shoreline). Backshore coastal elevations were compared with the mapped distribution of European coastal cliffs to produce a model training set, and this relationship was extended globally to map the likelihood of coastal cliff locations. About 21% of the transects (17% of the world vector shoreline) were identified as mangroves and eliminated as potential cliff locations. The results were combined with estimates of cliff percentages for Greenland and Antarctica from the literature, extending the global coverage to estimate cliff occurrence across 89% of the world vector shoreline. The results suggest coastal cliffs likely exist on about 52% of the global shoreline. © 2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Conceptualizing delta forms and processes in Arctic coastal environments

Climate warming in the Arctic directly causes two opposite changes in Arctic coastal systems: increased melt‐water discharge through rivers induces extra influx of sediments and extended open water season increases wave impact which reworks and erodes the shores. A shoreline change analysis along the southern coast of Disko Island in western Greenland was conducted with aerial photographs and satellite images from 1964, 1985, and 2012. The decadal morphologic evolution of this 85 km section showed that large parts of the coast had undergone very limited changes. However, two deltas were highly dynamic and popped up as hotspots. The Tuapaat delta and Skansen delta showed large progradation rates (1.5 and 7 m/yr) and migration of the adjacent barriers and spits. The dynamic behavior at the delta mouths was mainly caused by classic delta channel lobe switching at one delta (Tuapaat), and by a breach of the fringing spit at the other delta (Skansen). The longshore and cross‐shore transports are responsible for reworking the sediment with a result of migrating delta mouths and adjacent subaqueous mouth bars. Seaward progradation of the deltas is limited due to the steep nature of the bathymetry in Disko Bay. Finally, a schematic conceptual overview of processes and associated morphological responses for deltas in Arctic environments is presented, including the climate drivers affecting delta evolution. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Coastal protection of the isle of usedom — conceptional design of an offshore breakwater system at the streckelsberg, Baltic Sea

The Isle of Usedom is located in the South of the Baltic Sea on the border between Poland and Germany. The Streckelsberg is midway along the coastline of the island. The cliff coast area is extremely exposed to waves.Coastal protection works have been carried out here for the last 100 years, starting in 1895 with the construction of a revetment. All efforts could not solve the erosion problems in the long-term. Therefore, it was decided to install a new system of coastal protection measures in 1994. The conceptional design includes a system of three offshore breakwaters in combination with a beach nourishment system. To minimize downdrift erosion a groyne scheme will be additionally installed.The aim of the offshore breakwaters is to reduce the wave energy transformed into the sheltered area and to consequently reduce the longshore sediment transport. It is expected to support the natural development of a salient which will form the main part of the complete coastal protection system.     

Lithological controls on soft cliff planshape evolution under high and low sediment availability

This paper addresses a series of geomorphic questions relating to large‐scale (> 1 km), long‐term (100 – 1,000 years) coastal planshape evolution. Previous research on soft‐cliff coasts has recognised the role of protective fronting beach volumes on reducing rates of cliff toe retreat. However, it is the maintenance of this critical threshold that ultimately determines two contrasting modes of shoreline behaviour: Mode A, in which there is little beach sediment and shoreline evolution is controlled by material strength; and, Mode B, when ample beach sediment means that shoreline evolution is controlled by longshore sediment transport. Here we use a numerical model (SCAPE) to investigate temporal and spatial changes in beach volume on a broader range of feedbacks than considered in previous models. The transition between Mode A and Mode B coasts is defined by relative sediment inputs to outputs and used to explore how these contrasting modes control the evolution of an initial linear frontage exhibiting longshore changes in cliff lithology (material resistance and the proportion of beach grade material in the eroded bedrock). Under Mode A, relative changes in material resistance result in long term heterogeneous rates of retreat, which result in the development of persistent headland and embayment features. However, under Mode B, feedbacks between coastal planshape, longshore sediment transport, beach volume and wave energy result in steady state retreat rates regardless of longshore variations in resistance. Results are compared and contrasted to previous simulations and site specific examples and a conceptual model of Mode A and Mode B interactions presented. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Sea stack formation and the role of abrasion on beach‐mantled headlands

Sea stacks are common and striking coastal landforms, but few details are known about how, how quickly, and under what conditions they form. We present numerical and analytical models of sea stack formation due to preferential erosion along a pre‐existing headland to address these basic questions. On sediment‐rich rocky coasts, as sea cliffs erode and retreat, they produce beach sediment that is distributed by alongshore sediment transport and controls future sea cliff retreat rates. Depending on their width, beaches can encourage or discourage sea cliff erosion by acting either as an abrasive tool or a protective cover that dissipates wave energy seaward of the cliff. Along the flanks of rocky headlands where pocket beaches are often curved and narrow due to wave field variability, abrasion can accelerate alongshore‐directed sea cliff erosion. Eventually, abrasion‐induced preferential erosion can cut a channel through a headland, separating it from the mainland to become a sea stack. Under a symmetrical wave climate (i.e. equal influence of waves approaching the coastline from the right and from the left), numerical and analytical model results suggest that sea stack formation time and plan‐view size are proportional to preferential erosion intensity (caused by, for example, abrasion and/or local rock weakness from joints, faults, or fractures) and initial headland aspect ratio, and that sea stack formation is discouraged when the sediment input from sea cliff retreat is too high (i.e. sea cliffs retreat quickly or are sand‐rich). When initial headland aspect ratio is too small, and the headland is ‘rounded’ (much wider in the alongshore direction at its base than at its seaward apex), the headland is less conducive to sea stack formation. On top of these geomorphic and morphologic controls, a highly asymmetrical wave climate decreases sea stack size and discourages stack formation through rock–sediment interactions. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The formation and closure of the Big Breach of Sacalin spit associated with extreme shoreline retreat and shoreface erosion

We document a case of exceptionally large natural breaching of a sandy spit (Sacalin spit, Danube Delta) using multiannual to seasonal surveys of topography and bathymetry on successive cross-barrier and shoreface profiles, LiDAR data, satellite imagery, and wind and wave data. The large breach, which quickly reached 3.4 km in May 2014, is attributed to morphological preconditioning of the narrow (50–150 m) barrier, which was susceptible to breaching even during moderate storm conditions. The event switched the barrier's decadal evolution from low cross-shore transport to high cross-shore transport over the barrier, which is an order of magnitude larger than during the non-breach period. Upper shoreface erosion, as indicated by the extensive erosion down to −4 m, indicates that this zone is a significant source for the rebuilding of the barrier. Barrier recovery and widening trigger a negative feedback which limits the back-barrier sediment transfer. As a result, back-barrier deposition decreases whilst the barrier aggradation through overwash becomes more frequent. The Big Breach (TBB) closed naturally in three years. The very high deposition rate of sediment in the breach is a testimony of the high sediment volumes supplied by the longshore transport and the high sediment released through shoreface retreat, and resulted in widening the barrier to a maximum of 1 km. Since the newly-formed barrier shoreline retreated 500 m, this reveals that barrier breaching is an important mechanism which significantly accelerates the landward migration of the barrier system and is a proof of the highly non-linear morphodynamics involved in the barrier island translation. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Short‐term changes in the plan shape of a sandy beach in response to sheltering by a nearshore mud bank,Cayenne, French Guiana

Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point,northern ireland

Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.     

Systematic monthly morphologic variation of assawoman inlet: Nature and causes

Assawoman Inlet, Virginia, U.S.A., representative of small mesotidal barrier island tidal inlets exhibits systematic variations of sediment volume among certain of its morphologic elements. Sediment volume variations were calculated from topographic-bathymetric maps of the inlet system, as surveyed on 11 occasions at approximately monthly intervals by a fathometer, and plane table and alidade. Of 36 pairings among nine morphologic elements, seven show statistically significant Pearson Product Moment Correlation Coefficients. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the southern beach face and the northern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the northern beach face on the northern spit. The southern and northern ramp margin shoals themselves are negatively correlated. The southern ramp margin shoals are negatively correlated with the fore flood tidal delta which is negatively correlated with a tidal channel on its landward side. The back flood tidal delta is positively correlated with the northern ramp margin shoals and negatively correlated with the back side of Wallops spit. These associations may be qualitatively explained using wave and tidal climate data during the sampling year plus megaripple and bedding orientations. Constructive waves tend to transfer sediment from the ramp margin shoals landward, building up the adjacent beach faces. Destructive waves tend to move sediment back to the ramp margin shoals. Waves striking the coast obliquely promote asymmetric growth of the shoals, causing the ebb jet to erode into whichever is the smaller shoal.     

Shoreline development,longshore transport and surface wave dynamics,Pleistocene Lake Bonneville,Utah

Point of the Mountain spit and Fingerpoint spit are two of the largest geomorphic features of Pleistocene Lake Bonneville of the western Great Basin, USA. The spits and their associated shorelines show distinctly different geomorphic expression and genesis; this is a function of their positions within the lake and the dynamics of the waves and storms that formed them. Mapping of geomorphic features, geometry of erosional features, and detailed lithologic analysis of shoreline deposits are used to determine dominant modes of sediment erosion and deposition. The Point of the Mountain spit, located in the eastern portion of the basin, was formed as a result of highly fractured bedrock in a salient of the Wasatch Front being exposed to wave trains that approached from the north‐northwest causing north‐to‐south longshore sediment transport. Shoreline development and sediment transport on the southern portion of the spit were minimal. The Fingerpoint spit, located on an island in the northwest portion of the basin, was formed by bidirectional longshore sediment transport as the result of waves that approached from both the north‐northeast and the south‐southwest. Spit development is a function of surface wave energy and direction which in turn is the integrated result of wind direction, wind intensity, and fetch. Wave transport direction determined from ?eld measurements at Point of the Mountain spit corresponds very well to the direction of maximum fetch (c. 200 km). For the Fingerpoint spit, the hypothesized wave transport direction from the south corresponds with the direction of maximum fetch (c. 350 km). However, wave energy transport from the north had limited fetch (c. 100 km), implying that wind intensity from the north was relatively large. The geometry of the two large Bonneville spits suggests the predominant wind direction from storms during the Pleistocene was from the north and points the way for future studies that can aid in further understanding the nature of Pleistocene wind ?elds in the Great Basin. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Small river basin and estuarine sediment fluxes: The magnitude necessary for coastal dispersion and siltation effects on a coral reef

Increasing continental suspended sediment influx to coral reefs is an example of land-sea coupling that requires the identification of sources, magnitude of transport, and controlling processes. In Brazil, a small coastal basin (Macaé River) was identified as a source of suspended sediment to a coral reef on the coast of Cape Armação dos Búzios. Biannual suspended sediment loads were measured at the basin as were fluxes within the estuary and towards the coast during eight tidal cycles. Particle load and yield from this basin were typical of small coastal basins, showing high to moderate slopes and transitional land management. However, the magnitude of the river loads was lower than the sediment transport within the estuary, indicating that the estuary amplifies river fluxes and sustains the transference of suspended sediment alongshore to the coral reef. Nonetheless, the estuary displays both suspended particle retention and export capacity and, therefore, fluxes to the coast and the coral reef occur as episodic events.     

Drivers of island beach evolution: insights from an island-scale study at Boa Vista (Cabo Verde)

Beach erosion poses significant threat to small island economies which are generally highly dependent on coastal tourism. This work investigates the evolution of the low-lying sandy coast of Boa Vista through an integrated characterization of coastline and shoreline indicators (over the past four decades) based on aerial imagery. It was found that tandem use of the two indicators was important to obtain a reliable perspective of the Boa Vista low-lying coastal evolution across a wide range of coastal environments. Results indicate that between 1968 and 2010 the coast was relatively stable, although some spatial variability was recognized. The largest changes were observed at the tips of embayed beaches and a clear coastal progradation was found at the southern (downwind) coastal sectors. Coastal evolution has been dominated by sediment budget and the results put in evidence the sedimentary connections between the beaches across the island, either through bypass and overpass processes. Findings show that understanding coastal evolution at low-lying islands should be supported on island-scale observations, being the only scale capable to capture the sedimentary connections between beach systems, that often control coastal evolution. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Hindcast of breaking waves and its impact at an island sheltered coast,Karwar

Variability in the characteristics of depth-induced wave breakers along a non-uniform coastal topography and its impact on the morpho-sedimentary processes is examined at the island sheltered wave-dominated micro-tidal coast, Karwar, west coast of India. Waves are simulated using the coupled wind wave model, SWAN nested in WAVEWATCH III, forced by the reanalysis winds from different sources (NCEP/NCAR, ECMWF, and NCEP/CFSR). Impact of the wave breakers is evaluated through mean longshore current and sediment transport for various wave energy conditions across different coastal morphology. Study revealed that the NCEP/CFSR wind is comparatively reasonable in simulation of nearshore waves using the SWAN model nested by 2D wave spectra generated from WAVEWATCH III. The Galvin formula for estimating mean longshore current using the crest wave period and the Kamphuis approximation for longshore sediment transport is observed realistically at the sheltered coastal environment while the coast interacts with spilling and plunging breakers.