A proposed frequency spectrum for fully developed wind waves by revisiting P-M spectrum

It is generally believed that the equilibrium range of wind wave spectrum is in the form of the −4 rather than −5 power law. However, in the widely applied P-M spectrum the equilibrium range is given in the form of −5 power law. In the present paper, a spectrum for full development of wind waves is proposed using the form of the Neumann spectrum, but adopting the −4 power law for the equilibrium range. The proposed spectrum has been verified with NDBC buoy data and could be a substitute for the P-M spectrum.     

The sedimentary characteristics and formation mechanism of shell ridges along the southwest coast of Bohai Bay

The present paper studies the sedimentary characteristics and mechanism of the shell ridges on the southwestern coast of Bohai Bay, which are the largest and have the highest shell (or shell fragment) content in the world. These shell ridges are composed of two sedimentary subfacies: the ridge subfacies and the ridge infill subfacies with different inner textures and sedimentary structures. The ridge subfacies primarily consists of fresh shells and/or shell fragments with parallel beddings and high-angle oblique beddings. The ridge infill subfacies consists of finer shell fragments and silty sand with parallel beddings oblique to land. The evolution of the shell ridge is controlled by the accumulation of substantial shell material,the relative slow erosion of shoreline, storm waves, winds and the shift of river routes. Wind tunnel tests indicate that the critical movement velocity of shell is lower than that of quartz sand of the same grain size. Deltaic progradation alternates with shell ridge growth. While the Yellow River empties into the sea through this area, accompanied by deltaic progradating, the shell material is scarce, which is unfavorable to the growth of the shell ridge. Conversely, erosion occurs along an abandoned delta coast where a shell ridge may develop, e.g. the shell ridge on the southwest of Bohai Bay.     

A mechanism of the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves

A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves.     

Coastal sea level variability in the Bohai Bay: influence of atmospheric forcing and prediction

The sea level variabilities, especially the atmosphere-driven sea level variabilities, which are dif ferent in studies on diverse areas and timescales, need to be further documented in the Bohai Bay.Coastal sea level data and coincident meteorological data collected hourly at two observation stations(E1 and E2) in the Bohai Bay, which is a typical semi-enclosed coastal sea in China, are analyzed for the period from 19 August 2014 to 18 November 2014. The sub-sampled low-pass(0.8 cpd) sea levels(SLSLs)at E1 and E2 are almost the same as each other, while the winds are not. On the whole, SLSLs at E1 and E2 are dominantly influenced by the across-shore wind; in detail, the dominant wind orientation at E1 is65° measured clockwise from north, and SLSL at E2 is significantly influenced by the sub-sampled wind(SW) at 55°. Regression of SLSL onto the corresponding SW in dominant orientation and the atmospheric pressure is used to predict SLSL, which make the frequency of occurrences when the predicted total sea level is within 0.15 m from the observed values increase to 66.03% and 58.08% at E1 and E2 from original36.71% and 34.80% without using it, respectively. The results indicate that for the prediction of the total sea level variability in the coastal shallow waters, the SLSL influenced by the atmospheric forcing, including local wind and atmospheric pressure, can be predicted using the multivariable linear regression model.     

NUMERICAL STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF WAVES AND TIDE-SURGE INTERACTION ON TIDE-SURGES IN THE BOHAI SEA

Abstract The author‘s combined numerical model consisting of a third generation shallow water wave model and a 3-D tide-surge model with wave-dependent surface wind stress were used to study the influence of waves on fide-surge motion. For the typical weather case, in this study, the magnitude and mechanism of the influence of waves on tide-surges in the Bohai Sea were revealed for the first time. The results showed that although consideration of the wave-dependent surface wind stresses raise slightly the traditional surface wind stress, due to the accumulated effects, the computed results are improved on the whole. Storm level maximum modulation can reach 0.4 m. The results computed by the combined model agreed well with the measured data.     

Study on the growth of wind wave frequency spectra generated by cold waves in the northern East China Sea

The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea.     

Long-term variation of storm surge-associated waves in the Bohai Sea

When investigating the long-term variation of wave characteristics as associated with storm surges in the Bohai Sea, the Simulating Waves Nearshore(SWAN) model and ADvanced CIRCulation(ADCIRC) model were coupled to simulate 32 storm surges between 1985 and 2014. This simulation was validated by reproducing three actual wave processes, showing that the simulated significant wave height(SWH) and mean wave period agreed well with the actual measurements. In addition, the long-term variations in SWH, patterns in SWH extremes along the Bohai Sea coast, the 100-year return period SWH extreme distribution, and waves conditional probability distribution were calculated and analyzed. We find that the trend of SWH extremes in most of the coastal stations was negative, among which the largest trend was-0.03 m/a in the western part of Liaodong Bay. From the 100-year return period of the SWH distribution calculated in the Gumbel method, we find that the SWH extremes associated with storm surges decreased gradually from the center of the Bohai Sea to the coast. In addition, the joint probability of wave and surge for the entire Bohai Sea in 100-year return period was determined by the Gumbel logistic method. We therefore, assuming a minimum surge of one meter across the entire Bohai Sea, obtained the spatial SWH distribution. The conclusions of this study are significant for offshore and coastal engineering design.     

Densities of Huanghe River estuary and Bohai Bay waters

The densities of 36 water samples from the Huanghe River estuary and Bohai Bay were determinedby a magnetic float densimcter under three temperatures from 15℃ to 25℃.All the measured densities ofsamples were greater than that of the values calculated from the International Equation of State of Seawater.The differences between the measured and calculated densities increased with the decrease of salinities.The dif-ferences appeared exponentially correlated with[Ca~(2+)]/s,[Mg~(2+)]/s and[SO_4~(2-)]/s,and had"s"type curverelationship with the alkalinity in all salinity range.But in the salinity ranging from 25.72 to 31.57,therelationships were all linear.The density difference can be estimated from the equation △ρ（10~3kg·m~(-3)）=（-2.79+236.5([Ca~(2+)]/s)/(-9.7464×10~（-3）+[Ca~(2+)]/s).It was the high alkalinity and[Ca~(2+)]/s that resulted in the measured densi-ties of seawaters being higher than the calculated densities in the Huanghe estuary and Bohai Bay.     

歧口凹陷中部沙一下亚段异重流沉积识别特征与控制因素分析

分析陆相断陷湖盆异重流沉积的识别特征、异重流水下扇沉积体系的横向、垂向沉积序列、以及不同物源碎屑成因的异重流的沉积差异性,从而探讨陆相断陷湖盆中异重流沉积的控制因素。以歧口凹陷沙一下异重流沉积为研究对象,对研究区钻井岩心、测录井、地震属性以及粒度分析资料进行综合分析。结果表明,研究区异重流具有3种典型沉积识别特征：(1)两类沉积序列,分别为下部逆粒序、上部正粒序的纺锤状二元结构沉积序列以及厚度较大且粒度特征变化不明显的均一结构沉积序列;(2)粒度分析特征以递变悬浮载荷为主,累计概率曲线类型以复杂多段式、上拱曲线式、低斜率两段式为特征;(3)岩相特征为侵蚀充填沉积、广泛发育且类型多样的层理构造,其次为陆源褐红色泥质层、褐红色泥砾以及大量的植物茎干碎片和炭质碎屑。研究区异重流沉积接受多支物源供给表现出水道化特征,葛沽物源为最主要物源,总体具有长距离搬运、多个朵体发育、大范围沿路沉积等特征。建立了研究区扇三角洲和辫状河三角洲物源重力流沉积模式。断陷湖盆背景下异重流沉积的控制因素为古物源、古地貌、古气候3个方面,异重流沉积是断陷湖盆中广泛发育的沉积类型,其中异重流水道砂岩具有良好的储集物性,是...     

Parameterized first-guess spectrum method for retrieving directional spectrum of swell-dominated waves and huge waves from SAR images

A method to retrieve ocean wave spectra from SAR images, named Parameterized First-guess Spectrum Method (PFSM), was proposed after interpretation of the theory to ocean wave imaging and analysis of the drawbacks of the retrieving model generally used. In this method, with additional information and satellite parameters, the separating wave-number is first calculated to determine the maximum wave-number beyond which the linear relation can be used. The separating wave-number can be calculated using the additional information on wind velocity and parameters of SAR satellite. And then the SAR spectrum can be divided into SAR spectrum of wind wave and of swell according to the result of separating wave-number. The portion of SAR spectrum generated by wind wave, is used to search for the most suitable parameters of ocean wind wave spectrum, including propagation direction of ocean wave, phase speed of dominating wave and the angle spreading coefficient. The swell spectrum is acquired by directly inversing the linear relation of ocean wave spectrum to SAR spectrum given the portion of SAR spectrum generated by swell. We used the proposed method to retrieve the ocean wave spectrum from ERS-SAR data from the South China Sea and compared the result with altimeter data. The agreement indicates that the PFSM is reliable.     

Tectonic Characteristics and Evolution of Bohai Bay Basin, China

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Tectonic Characteristics and Evolution of Bohai Bay Basin,China

Synthetical analyzing the deep geophysical data within Bohai bay basin the authors detect the deep crustal struc-ture presenting high geothermal flux, thinned crust and arched Moho discontinuity, and the basin basement belongs to rigid continental crust. The development of the basin was controlled by two - dimensional faults in NNE and NWW directions. The tectonic units of the basin can be subdivided into three structural divisions: the east, middle and west division. The basin is considered as a continental rift. The tectonic background and regional right條ateral stress field during the late Cretaceous and Paleogene were a compound result of the Kula Plate W-directional subducting under Eurasia Continental Plate in 80-74Ma and the Philippine sea Plate W-directional subducting under the Eurasia Continental Plate since 60Ma, the long -rang effect of the India Continental Plate wedging into the Eurasia Continental Plate and of the Siberia Plate SE梔irectional relatively moving.     

Tectonic Characteristics and Evolution of Bohai Bay Basin, China

Synthetical analyzing the deep geophysical data within Bohai bay basin the authors detect the deep crustal structure presenting high geothermal flux, thinned crust and arched Moho discontinuity, and the basin basement belongs to rigid continental crust. The development of the basin was controlled by two - dimensional faults in NNE and NWW directions. The tectonic units of the basin can be subdivided into three structural divisions: the east, middle and west division. The basin is considered as a continental rift. The tectonic background and regional right - lateral stress field during the late Cretaceous and Paleogene were a compound result of the Kula Plate W - directional subducting under Eurasia Continental Plate in 80 ～ 74Ma and the Philippine sea Plate W -directional subducting under the Eurasia Continental Plate since 60Ma, the long-rang effect of the India Continental Plate wedging into the Eurasia Continental Plate and of the Siberia Plate SE - directional relatively moving.     

The spacing of Langmuir circulation under modest wind

Spacing characteristics of Langmuir circulation (LC) are computed by large eddy simulation (LES) model under modest wind. LC is an organized vertical motion, evidenced as buoyant materials forming lines nearly parallel to the wind direction. The horizontal distribution of velocity computed by LES shows clear lines formed by LC. These lines grow and parallel to each other for a while, which we call the stable state, before they finally form Y-junctions. We computed spacing between every two parallel lines by averaging them under the stable state. Statistically, spacing results of 154 tests (seven wind speed cases of 22 test runs each) show high correlations between spacing and wind speed, as well as mixed layer depth. The relationship of spacing and wind is important for future LC parameterization of upper-ocean mixing.     

Zinc and copper bioaccumulation in fish from Laizhou Bay,the Bohai Sea

Abstract Zinc （Zn） and copper （Cu） concentrations were determined in the tissues （muscle, stomach, liver, gills, skin, and gonads） of five commercial fish species （mullet Liza haematocheilus, flathead Platycephalus indicus, mackerel Scomberomorus niphonius, silver pomfret Pampus argenteus, and sea bass Lateolabrax japonicus） from Laizhou Bay in the Bohai Sea. Metal bioaccumulation was highest in the metabolically active tissues of the gonads and liver. Bioconcentration factors for Zn were higher in all tissues （gonads 44.35, stomach 7.73, gills 7.72, liver 5.61, skin 4.88, and muscle 1.63） than the corresponding values for Cu （gonads 3.50, stomach 3.00, gills 1.60, liver 5.43, skin 1.50, and muscle 0.93）. Mackerel tissues accumulated metal to higher concentrations than did other fish species, but bioaccumulation levels were not significantly correlated with the trophic levels of the fish. Zn and Cu concentrations in the tissues were generally negatively correlated with fish length, except for a few tissues of sea bass. Risk assessment based on national and international permissible limits and provisional tolerances for weekly intake of Zn and Cu revealed that the concentrations of these two metals in muscle were relatively low and would not pose hazards to human health.     

Quadratic correction to the linear wave spectrum of two-dimensional random waves

ImooUcrIONAtfrequendesseveraltirathatofthespeCtralpcak,thewaveelevationhigherordercomPonentS'contributionstothewavespatrumaremoresignificantthanthosefromthelinearcomPonentS.Tick(l959)firstproposedandevaluatedtheserendxidespodrumofunidindionalrandomwaves.TheexpnaionderivedbyDingPingxingetal.(l994)forthesecondxirderspeCtmmisanimProvernentofTick's.TickandDingPingxingetal.didnotaanuntforthirdxirderperturbations,althoughthethirdxirdersolutionefhaonthequadraticspeCtrumisofthesameorderofmagnit…     

渤海湾周缘主要河流钾长石物源示踪指标研究

渤海湾盆地碎屑物质的物源示踪研究,对于渤海湾盆地的自身演化,周缘造山带隆升和剥蚀过程,以及中国东部陆架海的物质扩散研究均具有重要意义,受到国内外学者的广泛关注,同时也存在诸多争议。钾长石是地壳中最主要的造岩矿物之一,在河流沉积物中广泛出现,在进行物源示踪研究时具有代表性。基于此,利用激光剥蚀电感耦合等离子质谱仪（LA-ICP-MS）对渤海湾盆地主要注入河流的碎屑钾长石进行了原位地球化学特征分析,结果表明,黄河干流碎屑钾长石的常量元素Na₂O、Al₂O₃、SiO₂、K₂O的标准偏差与滹沱河、滦河、辽河和漳河4条河流存在差异。在钾长石常量元素Al₂O₃质量分数与Na₂O和K₂O质量分数二维散点图中,部分黄河样品的Al₂O₃值较之整体部分（其他4条河流和黄河样品）偏低;微量元素中Ba、Pb、Sr、Rb和Ca的质量分数占主体部分,尤其Ba、Pb、Sr、Rb的含量较高。在Ba和Sr以及Ba和Pb质量分数二维散点图中,黄河与其他4条河流明显不同。该研究结果表明,钾长石的Ba和Sr含量变化可以成为环渤海湾盆地沉积物中黄河物源示踪的特征指标。      

Slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves

Capillary and capillary-gravity waves possess a random character, and the slope wavenumber spectra of them can be used to represent mean distributions of wave energy with respect to spatial scale of variability. But simple and practical models of the slope wavenumber spectra have not been put forward so far. In this article, we address the accurate definition of the slope wavenumber spectra of water surface capillary and capillary-gravity waves. By combining the existing slope wavenumber models and using the dispersion relation of water surface waves, we derive the slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves. Simultaneously, by using the slope wavenumber models, the dependence of the slope wavenumber spectrum on wind speed is analyzed using data obtained in an experiment which was performed in a laboratory wind wave tank. Generally speaking, the slope wavenumber spectra are influenced profoundly by the wind speed above water surface. The slope wavenumber spectrum increases with wind speed obviously and do not cross each other for different wind speeds. But, for the same wind speed, the slope wavenumber spectra are essentially identical, even though the capillary and capillary-gravity waves are excited at different times and locations. Furthermore, the slope wavenumber spectra obtained from the models agree quite well with experimental results as regards both the values and the shape of the curve.     

Slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves

Capillary and capillary-gravity waves possess a random character, and the slope wavenumber spectra of them can be used to represent mean distributions of wave energy with respect to spatial scale of variability. But simple and practical models of the slope wavenumber spectra have not been put forward so far. In this article, we address the accurate definition of the slope wavenumber spectra of water surface capillary and capillary-gravity waves. By combining the existing slope wavenumber models and using the dispersion relation of water surface waves, we derive the slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves. Simultaneously, by using the slope wavenumber models, the dependence of the slope wavenumber spectrum on wind speed is analyzed using data obtained in an experiment which was performed in a laboratory wind wave tank. Generally speaking, the slope wavenumber spectra are influenced profoundly by the wind speed above water surface. The slope wavenumber spectrum increases with wind speed obviously and do not cross each other for different wind speeds. But, for the same wind speed, the slope wavenumber spectra are essentially identical, even though the capillary and capillary-gravity waves are excited at different times and locations. Furthermore, the slope wavenumber spectra obtained from the models agree quite well with experimental results as regards both the values and the shape of the curve.     

渤海湾盆地车镇凹陷地层超压特征与油气赋存关系

渤海湾盆地车镇凹陷超压发育广泛,基于钻井实测(DST)资料和测井资料,对车镇凹陷地层超压特征及超压与油气的赋存关系进行了分析。研究结果表明,始新统沙河街组三段和四段地层发育异常高压,异常压力主要出现在埋深2 100 m以下地层中,最大压力系数达到1.78。车镇凹陷泥岩声波时差对地层超压有较好的响应关系,在超压层段,声波时差明显偏离正常压实趋势,具有较高的声波时差值,通过典型单井泥岩声波时差确定了正常声波时差趋势线,并建立了地层压力预测模型,综合主要超压区域单井预测压力,分析了超压顶界面主要在2 100～3 200 m之间,发育单超压系统。剖面上压力体分布特征表明,压力体形成以洼陷深部位为中心向周围逐渐递减的压力结构。超压对油气运移和赋存起着控制作用,套尔河洼陷油藏主要分布在压力系数为1.6的压力体外围;车西洼陷油藏主要分布在压力系数为1.4的压力体外围。