水深对超大型FPSO波浪载荷响应影响试验研究

随着超大型浮式生产储卸油装置FPSO（floating production storing and offloading）在渤海浅水海域的广泛应用,水深对FP—SO波浪载荷响应的影响问题突现出来。对缩尺比为1：100的三模块分节模型进行了水深对超大型FPSO波浪载荷响应影响的试验研究,试验结果表明水深对FPSO波浪诱导载荷的影响很大。     

Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor

INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents …     

Wave-induced seabed response in shallow water

To simulate the wave-induced response of coupled pore fluids and a solid skeleton in shallow water, a set of solutions with different formulations (fully dynamic, partly dynamic, and quasi-static) corresponding to each soil behavior assumption is presented. To deal with Jacobian elliptic functions involved in the cnoidal theory, a Fourier series approximation is adopted for expanding the boundary conditions on the seabed surface. The parametric study indicates the significant effect of nonlinearity for shallow water wave, which also enhances the effect of soil characteristics. The investigation of the applicability of reduced formulations reveals the necessity of a partly or even fully dynamic formulation for the wave-induced seabed response problem in shallow water, especially for thickened seabed. The analysis of liquefaction in the seabed indicates that the maximum depth of liquefaction is shallower, and the width of liquefaction is broader under cnoidal wave loading. The present analytical model can provide more reasonable result for the wave-induced seabed response in the range of shallow water wave.     

波浪和太阳短波辐射对渤、黄海夏季温度垂直结构的影响

基于普林斯顿(POM)模式,采用不同的垂直混合方案并考虑太阳短波辐射的作用,对渤海、黄海夏季垂直热结构进行了数值试验。试验结果表明,夏季波浪混合控制着渤海、黄海上混合层的形成,加入波浪混合能明显改善陆架浅海的夏季温度垂直结构。太阳短波辐射对渤海、黄海夏季上层垂直热结构有一定的作用,研究夏季海洋上层垂直热结构应该包括太阳短波辐射的影响,特别是对于水深相对较深的黄海。     

波浪对泥沙作用的数值研究及在渤海区域的检验

针对渤海海域开展了波致底切应力对泥沙作用的数值估计。针对浅水条件,通过理想试验估算了波致底切应力对波流耦合底切应力的贡献。针对渤海大风过程,利用ECOMSED模式,通过波流耦合底边界层模型模拟了渤海区域的泥沙浓度,并利用遥感资料对表层泥沙浓度的数值模拟进行了检验。对比结果表明,考虑波浪作用的情况下,模拟结果在总体分布上得到明显的改善。在大风过程中波浪对0~20 m近岸区域的泥沙再悬浮起主导作用。     

Oblique wave interaction with a floating structure near a wall with stepped bottom

Diffraction of obliquely incident waves by a floating structure near a wall with step-type bottom topography is investigated under the three-dimensional small amplitude wave theory. Full solution of the problem under the potential flow approach is obtained by the matched eigenfunction expansion method. The wave-induced forces on the structure and on the wall, the reflection and transmission characteristics and the wave elevations in the free surface regions are studied for different incident wave angles, water depth ratios and dimension of the structure and the distance of the wall from the center of the structure. The problem is reformulated under shallow water approximations and results are compared with the finite depth results.     

垂向混合参数化方案对模拟黄海夏季上层温度结构的影响研究

采用POMgcs(Princeton Ocean Model with generalized coordinate system)和MITgcm(MIT General Circulation Model)两个海洋数值模式,研究了M-Y2.0、基于固壁近似假定的M-Y2.5、基于波浪破碎作用的M-Y2.5和KPP 4种垂向混合参数化方案对模拟黄海夏季上层温度结构的影响。结果表明,M-Y2.0和基于固壁近似假定的M-Y2.5方案低估了黄海上层的湍动能,模拟的黄海夏季温度上混合层的效果与实测相比均偏浅,不能够很好地重构黄海夏季温度的垂直结构。而基于波浪破碎作用的M-Y2.5和KPP方案均可以增加海洋上层湍动能的输入量,模拟的黄海夏季温度上混合层的效果与实测较为一致。故推测黄海夏季的上层结构是受波浪混合和流场剪切等物理机制共同调节的,若通过合理的垂向混合参数化方案将这些物理机制的作用加以体现,将会较真实地模拟和重构出黄海夏季海温上层结构。     

Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.     

Non-linear wave-induced transient response of soil around a trenched pipeline

Submarine pipelines are always trenched within a seabed for reducing wave loads and thereby enhancing their stability. Based on Biot's poroelastic theory, a two-dimensional finite element model is developed to investigate non-linear wave-induced responses of soil around a trenched pipeline, which is verified with the flume test results by Sudhan et al. [Sudhan, C.M., Sundar, V., Rao, S.N., 2002. Wave induced forces around buried pipeline. Ocean Engineering, 29, 533–544] and Turcotte et al. [Turcotte, B.R., Liu, P.L.F., Kulhawy, F.H., 1984. Laboratory evaluation of wave tank parameters for wave-sediment interaction. Joseph H. Defree Hydraulic Laboratory Report 84-1, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University]. Non-linear wave-induced transient pore pressure around pipeline at various phases of wave loading is examined firstly. Unlike most previous investigations, in which only a single sediment layer and linear wave loading were concerned, in this study, the influences of the non-linearity of wave loading, the physical properties of backfill materials and the geometry profile of trenches on the excess pore pressures within the soil around pipeline, respectively, were explored, taking into account the in situ conditions of buried pipeline in the shallow ocean zones. Based on the parametric study, it is concluded that the shear modulus and permeability of backfill soils significantly affect the wave-induced excess pore pressures around trenched pipeline, and that the effect of wave non-linearity becomes more pronounced and comparable with that of trench depth, especially at high wave steepness in shallow water.     

基于CESM1.2.2模拟的浪致混合对末次冰盛期和工业革命前气候的影响

海洋上层垂向混合在模式中发挥重要的作用,以往的研究表明垂向混合的不足使得模拟的海洋温度和混合层深度与观测存在显著偏差。前人提出一种修正方案,考虑波浪产生的垂向混合,将由表面风作用下产生的波浪这样一个实际物理过程的湍混合进行参数化,其结果被证实能够显著提高模式模拟和预报的准确性。本文首次将浪致混合引入海气耦合的古气候模式,基于末次冰盛期和工业革命前2种不同的气候条件,探究浪致混合在海气耦合模式中的作用。在不同气候背景下,由于风场强度的不同,导致末次冰盛期浪致混合的强度小于工业革命前,但2个气候时期都体现出中纬度混合强度最大的特点。将浪致混合加入到气候模式中,模拟结果表明：中纬度海域2个时期都出现海表面降温而次表层升温的现象,但末次冰盛期的表面降温强度弱于工业革命前状态;不同月份下的模拟结果显示,在南北半球的夏季,海洋表层温度的降温最为显著。中纬度海域海洋上混合层深度在年平均条件下2个气候背景时期都出现加深现象,但末次冰盛期的加深程度弱于工业革命前;不同月份下的模拟结果显示,在南北半球的冬季,混合层加深的变化达到极值。另一方面,在高纬度海域,末次冰盛期的海表面温度出现了显著升高,这是由于浪致混合导致海冰的减少进而引发海洋表层升温。最后将末次冰盛期的模拟结果与代用资料进对比,发现浪致混合使得72%的数据点模拟结果与代用数据的差异减少。     

Ocean temperature responses to Typhoon Mstsa in the East China Sea

The MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled model, with 21 layers in the vertical and （1/8） °horizontal resolution, was employed to investigate the oceanic responses to Typhoon Mstsa which traversed the East China Sea （ECS） during the period of 4 - 6 August, 2005. Numerical experiment results are analyzed and compared with observation. The responses of the sea surface temperature （SST）, in a focused area of （27° -29°N, 121° - 124°E）, include heating and cooling stages. The heating is mainly due to warm Kuroshio water transportation and downwelling due to the water accumulation. In the cooling stage, the amplitude of the simulated cold wake （ -3℃ ）, located on the right side of this typhoon track, is compared quite well with that of the satellite observed SST data. The wave-induced mixing（Bv） plays a key role for the SST cooling. Bv still plays a leading role, which accounts for 36%, for the ocean temperature drop in the upper ocean of 0 - 40 m, while the upwelling is responsible for 84% of the cooling for the lower layer of 40 - 70 m. The mixed layer depth （MLD） increased quickly from 28 to 50 m in the typhoon period. However, the simulated MLD without the wave-induced vertical mixing, evolution from 13 to 32 m, was seriously underestimated. The surface wave is too important to be ignored for the ocean responses to a typhoon.     

波致海底缓倾角无限坡滑动稳定性计算分析探讨

波浪作用下海底无限坡滑动稳定性计算的极限平衡法中,忽略了坡体水平向应力状态的影响,为此,针对波浪作用下海底缓倾角无限边坡的特点,提出直接基于滑动面处土体应力状态的滑动稳定性计算方法(简称应力状态法),并分析了其适用范围。对具体算例的分析表明,应力状态法计算得出的安全系数大于极限平衡法的安全系数,且随着滑动面深度的增加、土体泊松比以及边坡坡角的增大,两种计算方法得出的安全系数的差异会逐渐增大;对于波浪作用下的海底缓倾角无限边坡,在失稳时极可能沿具有一定厚度的滑动带而不是单一的滑动面而滑动,且波致最大剪应力所在的深度,常常不是斜坡体最易失稳滑移的深度。     

Effects of cross-correlated multiple spatially random soil properties on wave-induced oscillatory seabed response

The evaluation of seabed response under wave loading is important for prediction of stability of foundations of offshore structures. In this study, a stochastic finite element model which integrates the Karhunen-Loève expansion random field simulation and finite element modeling of wave-induced seabed response is established. The wave-induced oscillatory response in a spatially random heterogeneous porous seabed considering cross-correlated multiple soil properties is investigated. The effects of multiple spatial random soil properties, correlation length and the trend function (the relation of the mean value versus depth) on oscillatory pore water pressure and momentary liquefaction are discussed. The stochastic analyses show that the uncertainty bounds of oscillatory pore water pressure are wider for the case with multiple spatially random soil properties compared with those with the single random soil property. The mean pore water pressure of the stochastic analysis is greater than the one obtained by the deterministic analysis. Therefore, the average momentary liquefaction zone in the stochastic analysis is shallower than the deterministic one. The median of momentary liquefaction depth generally decreases with the increase of vertical correlation length. When the slope of the trend function increases, the uncertainty of pore water pressure is greatly reduced at deeper depth of the seabed. Without considering the trend of soil properties, the wave-induced momentary liquefaction potential may be underestimated.     

Observations and measurements of wave-induced drift of surface inextensible film in deep and shallow waters

The present study investigates the drift of two-dimensional floating surface films by both deep and shallow water waves in the laboratory. The focus is on the observations and measurements on the drift behavior and to clarify some outstanding issues. Thin polyethylene sheets with reflective markers were attached to simulate the inextensible surface films. Upon the initiation of a wave train, two infrared cameras recorded continuously the instantaneous position of the markers at 50 Hz. The temporal variation of the drift velocity was then determined by processing the recorded data. In all experiments, the drift velocity increased quickly in the beginning and reached a quasi-steady mean value. The magnitude of the surface drift typically increased with the longitudinal length of the polyethylene sheet until the sheet length was approximately the same as the wavelength. Lengthening the sheet length further did not lead to significant changes in the drift velocity. Under the shallow water condition, the wave-induced drift velocity increased linearly with the Ursell number and with a lower water depth.     

Prediction of wave-induced scour depth under submarine pipelines using machine learning approach

The scour around submarine pipelines may influence their stability; therefore scour prediction is a very important issue in submarine pipeline design. Several investigations have been conducted to develop a relationship between wave-induced scour depth under pipelines and the governing parameters. However, existing formulas do not always yield accurate results due to the complexity of the scour phenomenon. Recently, machine learning approaches such as Artificial Neural Networks (ANNs) have been used to increase the accuracy of the scour depth prediction. Nevertheless, they are not as transparent and easy to use as conventional formulas. In this study, the wave-induced scour was studied in both clear water and live bed conditions using the M5’ model tree as a novel soft computing method. The M5’ model is more transparent and can provide understandable formulas. To develop the models, several dimensionless parameter, such as gap to diameter ratio, Keulegan-Carpenter number and Shields number were used. The results show that the M5’ models increase the accuracy of the scour prediction and that the Shields number is very important in the clear water condition. Overall, the results illustrate that the developed formulas could serve as a valuable tool for the prediction of wave-induced scour depth under both live bed and clear water conditions.     

Influence of lateral mixing on longshore currents

A variety of different lateral mixing models have been employed in the equation of motion for determining wave-induced longshore currents. The equation of motion is cast into a general form which enables a comparison of the various models. Analytic solutions for longshore currents are developed for seven different mixing models. A nonplanar beach profile is employed because it has been found to be representative of many beaches and it allows for a distinction between offshore and depth scaling of eddies. The seven different mixing models include models which vary monotonically with horizontal distance offshore and models which change form at the breaker line. Numerical results indicate that the longshore current profile is rather insensitive to the form of the mixing model for nonplanar beach profiles.     

Wave diffraction by elliptical breakwaters in shallow water

The scattering of waves by both floating and submerged stationary elliptical breakwaters is investigated by means of linearised shallow water wave theory. This formulation leads to solutions for the fluid velocity potential in terms of Mathieu functions of real argument. Expressions are derived for the wave-induced forces and moments on the structures and their total and differential scattering cross-sections. Numerical results are presented for a range of wave and structural parameters.The present analysis serves as a prelude to a more comprehensive study of the problem without the shallow water restriction.     

Numerical Simulation of Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Wave Action

A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data.     

非线性流函数在实验风浪场计算中的应用

风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。