Equilibrium modeling of the beach profile on a macrotidal embayed low tide terrace beach

Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.     

Discarded containers on a kent beach

Winter beach surveys of discarded containers at Sandwich Bay showed a wide range of fabrication materials and contents. These were manufactured world-wide and probably distributed by seaborne disposal from local shipping. Although blow moulded polyethylene bottles containing toilet cleansers were commonly observed, there was no evidence to indicate an accumulation of these items in the marine environment.     

A morphodynamic model for beach gradients

This paper outlines a general framework for analysis of the problem of beach gradients which divides the system into: (1) the independent controls, (2) the hydrodynamics, (3) the sediment dynamics, and (4) the morphodynamics. A model is derived from the combination of these stages which shows close agreement with field data for wave steepnesses of less than about 0.06, but predicts lower beach gradients than arc observed for steeper waves. The use of ‘analytical feedback’ in the present model rather than the ‘iterative feedback’ which is used in computer simulations demonstrates that differential sediment transport may be responsible for stabilizing the beach gradient.     

A proposed mechanism for storm beach sedimentation

One of the major problems of shingle beach dynamics is the method by which coarse gravel is transferred from beach face to storm beach, the latter often lying several metres above high spring tidal levels. The mechanism which is usually proposed, cites the action of plunging breakers as being central to this problem of sediment transfer. However, the nature of net residual fluid force of plunging breakers is deemed unsatisfactory for any substantial upbeach (onshore) sediment transport during storm conditions on gravel beaches. A mechanism is proposed by which high still water levels due to high astronomical tides, onshore storm force winds and allied wave surge, promote shoaling characteristics and beach profile changes which are conducive to spilling breaker development at tidal extremities. It is the net onshore fluid force vector of the spilling breaker overtopping the beach crest which may be the cause of extreme sedimentation events on the storm beach. An example of such sediment transfer is given for a known storm beach sedimentation event at Llanrhystyd gravel beach, West Wales, during February 1974. Process variables were monitored on several days allowing the use of an inshore breaker steepness criterion, to indicate positions in the tidal regime where plunging breakers give way to spilling forms. This example serves to suggest that more attention should be given to the nature and characteristics of shoaling waves, especially in respect of breaker type, when examining problems of shingle beach dynamics and sedimentation.     

Spatial and seasonal aspects of beach stability

Recent work at three contrasting sites in England and Wales has shown characteristics atypical of those frequently reported elsewhere. These differences are:

• (a) Taking each entire beach system there is no uniform trend of erosion or accretion, nor a progressive variation in beach elevation or volume alongshore, from one survey to the next. However, for Swansea Bay the ‘long-term’ (i. e. 18 months) range in profile height along that stretch of coast where the alignment of the beach is normal to the direction of wave approach, correlates well with computed wave energy derived from relevant offshore wave directions.
• (b) While beach variability is greatest during the ‘winter’ (i. e. storm) period there is no overall tendency for a drawdown of sediment from the intertidal zone at that time. Response times are relatively short. Thus high beach levels need not necessarily be associated with ‘summer’ conditions.
• (c) Although in Swansea Bay there is a tendency for the beach height to fluctuate least at mid-tide level this is not true of the other two sites. In no area does sediment eroded from the upper exposed part of the beach regularly appear to be deposited on the lower exposed part, or vice versa.

     

Sequential monitoring of beach litter using webcams

This study attempts to establish a system for the sequential monitoring of beach litter using webcams placed at the Ookushi beach, Goto Islands, Japan, to establish the temporal variability in the quantities of beach litter every 90 min over a one and a half year period. The time series of the quantities of beach litter, computed by counting pixels with a greater lightness than a threshold value in photographs, shows that litter does not increase monotonically on the beach, but fluctuates mainly on a monthly time scale or less. To investigate what factors influence this variability, the time derivative of the quantity of beach litter is compared with satellite-derived wind speeds. It is found that the beach litter quantities vary largely with winds, but there may be other influencing factors.     

Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001

A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of , the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

Indicators of microbial beach water quality: Preliminary findings from Teluk Kemang beach,Port Dickson (Malaysia)

This study aims to determine the concentrations of total coliforms and Escherichia coli (E. coli) in beach water, Teluk Kemang beach. This study was also aimed to determine relationship between total coliforms, E. coli and physicochemical parameters. As perceived health symptoms among beach visitors are rarely incorporated in beach water studies, this element was also assessed in this study. A total of eight water sampling points were selected randomly along Teluk Kemang beach. Total coliforms concentrations were found between 20 and 1940 cfu/100 ml. E. coli concentrations were between 0 and 90 cfu/100 ml. Significant correlations were found between total coliforms and E. coli with pH, temperature and oxidation reduction potential. Skin and eyes symptoms were the highest reported though in small numbers. Microbiological water quality in Teluk Kemang public beach was generally safe for recreational activities except sampling location near with sewage outfall.     

A model of inter-annual variability in beach levels

Beach profile data, collected twice per year at 19 stations over a 25 km length of coastline in Tremadoc Bay, have been analysed to quantify the inter-annual variability in beach levels over a 7 year period and the results compared against the output of a numerical model. Using hourly wind data as forcing, the morphological development of northern Tremadoc Bay was simulated by wave, tidal, longshore transport, total transport and bed level change models. The modelling methodology was efficient and innovative, allowing realistic simulations of long duration with a time step of 1 h, hence capturing the high frequency nature of wind events. The model was run for each of the 7 autumn/winter periods (generally November–April) and the modelled net change in beach levels compared with the data from all 19 stations. The model results had reasonable agreement with the beach profile surveys. However, the observed magnitude of bed level change in the bay lagged the model output by 1 year, indicating that sediment processes acting over a larger area are important in a relatively localised study of inter-annual variability.     

Simple infrared techniques for measuring beach surface moisture

Knowledge of surface moisture on beaches is vital for aeolian process studies because moisture increases transport thresholds and limits mass flux. A number of beach surface moisture measurement techniques have been employed in the field, including sample extraction, commercial soil moisture sensors, and remote sensing techniques. Each method has significant limitations in the context of aeolian process studies. This study was designed to test infrared optic techniques for measuring beach surface moisture. A simple infrared sensor (narrow‐band radiometer) was developed to measure beach surface moisture content. The accuracy and practical usability of the narrow‐band radiometer were assessed in comparison to a commercial handheld spectroradiometer. Field calibrations conducted at Cape San Blas, Florida and Padre Island, Texas indicated that the narrow‐band radiometer performed quite well. The R² values exceeded 0·98 in each case, and the standard error averaged about 1% moisture content compared with gravimetric moisture contents determined from 1·5 mm deep surface scrapes. The performance of the two instruments was found to be comparable, with the narrow‐band radiometer slightly outperforming the spectroradiometer. In practical applications, the narrow‐band radiometer also has logistical advantages and is better suited to measure large numbers of points. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Observations of bedforms on a dissipative macrotidal beach

Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ～20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u _m?<?0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ?<?25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η?=?10 cm, λ?=?1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow.     

Pore water transport of enterococci out of beach sediments

Enterococci are used to evaluate the safety of beach waters and studies have identified beach sands as a source of these bacteria. In order to study and quantify the release of microbes from beach sediments, flow column systems were built to evaluate flow of pore water out of beach sediments. Results show a peak in enterococci (average of 10% of the total microbes in core) released from the sand core within one pore water volume followed by a marked decline to below detection. These results indicate that few enterococci are easily removed and that factors other than simple pore water flow control the release of the majority of enterococci within beach sediments. A significantly larger quantity and release of enterococci were observed in cores collected after a significant rain event suggesting the influx of fresh water can alter the release pattern as compared to cores with no antecedent rainfall.     

Behaviour of diesel fuel on a high energy beach

On 1 March 1984, a spill of diesel fuel and gasoline on the east coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands, Canada, resulted in significant contamination of the beach. Sediment and water samples analysed for oil concentration indicated that oil moved through the beach sediments in response to the tidal cycle and the subsequent changing water table levels. Concentrations tended to be low and variable in samples collected during a flood tide as the oil was driven through the sediments to the upper beach face. On the ebb, however, concentrations increased nearly five times as oil was released from the lowering water table onto the surface of the beach face. At low tide some residual oil remained trapped in the sediments, the amount correlating with the degree of sediment sorting (i.e. sediment porosity). In spite of high wave exposure, traces of fuel remained within 300 m of the spill site after 60 days. This suggests that light, unweathered oil is not mechanically abraded and dispersed in the same manner as more weathered oil; rather the light oil is released from the beach sediments principally during an ebbing tide, and wave action probably affects the cleaning of the beach in a minor capacity.     

Overwash processes along a gravel beach in south-east Ireland

Recent overwashing, and to a more limited extent overtopping, has occurred on a gravel-dominated beach just west of Carnsore Point in south-east Ireland. At relatively low points swash excursions have breached the duneline and extensive gravel fans have formed on landward-facing slopes. Also, at interbreach positions, swash ramps have been built-up in front of previously eroding dune cliffs, allowing overtopping at heights of up to 5 m above MHWOST, spreading a veneer of sediment over the adjacent dune ridge. In both cases events appear to be preceded by erosion and backbeach sand and gravel deposition. Stratigraphic, textural and fabric analyses assist in identifying environmental conditions that prevailed during overwash throat and fan, and overtopping ramp, sedimentation.