Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone

In this paper, (he large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads lo the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale mode! is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this pape     

北戴河海滩泥沙捕获实验及其初步结果分析

介绍了利用泥沙捕获器观测破波带泥沙垂直分布结构的现场实验方法和基本程序，以及利用实验结果计算泥沙通量的方法。研究表明，近岸带泥沙运移通量及其在垂向上的分布受破波带相对位置和海滩地形变化的影响。在破波点附近，波浪的搅动和流场作用强，泥沙运移通量增大，泥沙在波浪的作用下可以大量进入垂直水体以悬移和跃移的方式运移。在本实验中，破波点附近的泥沙在距海底100cm的垂直水体中运移，通量垂向向上逐渐减小。远离破波点，泥沙运移通量和进入垂直水体的高度明显下降。在地形变化复杂的有坝海滩，沙坝顶部的泥沙运移通量最大，泥沙进入垂直水体运移的机率增加，而在沙坝问的沟槽内，波浪和海流作用减弱，泥沙通量和垂向进入水体运移的比例下降。     

Calculation of Wave Radiation Stress in Combination with Parabolic Mild Slope Equation

A new method for the calculation of wave radiation stress is proposed by linking the expres-sions for wave radiation stress with the variables in the parabolic mild slope equation.The governing equa-tions are solved numerically by the finite difference method.Numerical results show that the new methodis accurate enough,can be efficiently solved with little programming effort,and can be applied to the calcu-lation of wave radiation stress for large coastal areas.     

考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型

提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确.     

Food and Feeding Habits of the Surf Zone Penaeid Prawn Macropetasma africanus (Balss)

Abstract. Macropetasma africanus is an important component of the nearshore macrofauna in South African marine waters. Juveniles utilize high energy surf zones as nursery and maturation areas before offshore migration to spawning areas. Samples were taken from two surf zone areas and an offshore spawning area over a two year period. Spatial, seasonal, and diel variations in diet, established from stomach content analysis (N = 1020), indicate that M. africanus is an omnivorous feeder with a diet reflecting general food availability in the environment. Five major food groups were identified. Detritus was the most important food group identified in a medium energy surf zone and offshore spawning area. Phytoplankton was the major food group utilized in a high energy surf area characterized by phytoplankton blooms. Crustaceans were an important component of the diet in all three areas sampled and the remains of copepods, ostracods, isopods, amphipods, and mysids were identified. Benthic macrofauna and meiofauna are not important components of the M. africanus diet in the turbulent surf zone areas but appear more important in the offshore area. Feeding behaviour is adapted to turbulent conditions found in surf areas and the passage of food through the foregut is rapid.     

考虑边界波浪方向的缓坡方程自适应求解模型

缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪运动较好的数学模型之一。在发展的自适应有限元求解缓坡方程的基础上,采用迭代求解的方法,确定波浪相对于边界的入射方向,从而对边界条件进行改进,建立了求解缓坡方程的数值计算模型。典型算例表明,考虑波浪相对于边界的入射角度后,模型可以更好地模拟吸收波浪边界,同时对多向波对双突堤的绕射进行了模拟研究,与试验结果比较表明,所建立的数值计算模型能够适用于多向不规则波传播过程的模拟研究。     

Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in Wave Transformation

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Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on Wave Transformation

—A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper.which can overcome the limitationof the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple(1986).and which has a better approximation to Hedges'empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges(1987).Kirby and Dalrymple(1987)for shallow waters.The new dispersion relation is simple in form.thusit can be used easily in practice.Meanwhile,a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion rela-tion and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given.By use of the explicit approximation to the newdispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinear effect.amathematical model is obtained,and it is applied to laboratory data.The results show that the model de-veloped with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quitewell.     

A 3-D Numerical Model for the Calculation of Water Wave Transformation in Large Area

Based on the integral equation transformed from three dimensional Laplace equation and by the adoption of the division manner of sub- region boundary element method, the numerical computations of the velocity potential of each sub-region are given considering the continuity conditions of potential and normal derivatives at the interface of sub-regions. Therefore, computation of wave deformation in offshore flow field is realized. The present numerical model provides a good solution for the application of boundary element method to the calculation of wave deformation in large areas.     

Calculations of wave transformation across the surf zone

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles.     

A Unique Solvable Higher Order BEM for Wave Diffraction and Radiation

- For the discretization of higher order elements, this paper presents a modified integral domain method to remove the irregular frequencies inherited in the integral equation of wave diffraction and radiation from a surface-piercing body. The set of over-determined linear equations obtained from the method is modified into a normal set of linear equations by superposing a set of linear equations with zero solutions. Numerical experiments have also been carried out to find the optimum choice of the size of the auxiliary domain and the discretization on it.     

珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究

通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。     

Wave Transformation and Breaking in Diagonal Opposing Current

- When waves propagate into diagonal opposing current from non-current area, not only the wave parameters but also the direction of wave propagation will change, that is, wave refraction will occur. The authors have calculated the changes of wave parameters, including wave refraction, by Linear Wave Theory, and have also done systematic study on wave transformation and breaking in opposing current by means of experimental analysis and theoretical calculation. In order to know the effect of wave refraction, computation is done in this paper about wave transformation and breaking on gentle slopes in diagonal opposing current.     

非均匀各向同性介质中弹性波传播的盒式积分法模拟

为方便积分差值法的精确处理,利用积分差值法,将运动方程、自由边界条件及人工边界上的吸收边界条件进行积分,根据高斯定理得出了二维非均匀介质中弹性波传播的二阶显式差分格式。并针对几个典型的地质模型,计算了其弹性波传播的数值模拟结果,结果表明,该方法有较好的精度和稳定性。     

海浪特性及其传播变形研究新进展

综述第27届国家海岸工程会议（ICCE2000）上有关海浪特性及其传播变形研究的新进展,内容包括海浪的时域特性,海浪的特征,海浪的传播变形和波浪的破碎,反射等四部分。     

A method to determine the incident wave boundary conditions and its application

When studying the harbor water tranquility, cases are often confronted as that the verification point is not located on the generation line or that the angle between the generation line and the isobath is so large that the differences of the wave climates along the generation line can not be ignored. For these cases, the incident boundary conditions are difficult to evaluate. In order to solve this problem, a combined wave model is developed in the present paper based on the Boussinesq equation and the wave action balance equation. Instead of the one-line wave generation method, a multi-line generation method is proposed for the combined model. Application of this method is given to a case that the harbor is designed with two entrances and the angle between the generation line and the isobath is large and the results are shown reasonable. We suggest that the wave generation method on multi-lines might also be introduced to the wave physical model as the replacement for the one-line generation method.     

正压冲固平台结构分析中基础边界条件的影响

正压冲固平台是一种采用短桩加固基础的新型海洋采油平台,对于这种新型的平台结构,在结构分析和构件强度校核中必须考虑其有限元模型的基础边界条件处理问题。本文提出了正压冲固平台有限元计算模型中基础边界条件的一种简化方法,将两个水平方向的扭转自由度简化为扭转弹簧边界元,其余自由度简化为固定约束。通过计算分析得到了不同的边界约束刚度系数的取值对平台总体位移和强度校核应力的影响及变化趋势。结论是,平台结构对约束刚度系数K的反应在10^4～10^4之间时比较明显,对K的敏感度最为强烈：在此范围之外,平台反应分别接近于简支约束情况和刚性约束情况。尤其对于接近约束边界的单元,其应力变化最敏感。     

海雾生成过程中平流、湍流和辐射效应的数值试验

利用相对湿度方程,结合数值模式研究了在海雾生成过程中平流、湍流和辐射的效应。结果表明,海雾生成的主要“推动力”是长波辐射冷却,湍流冷却在低层主要发生在平流的初始阶段。随着时间的推移,湍流对低层大气很快变为起加热作用,不利于海雾的生成。湍流和辐射效应在低层大气中符号相反(仅在海雾生成的初始阶段符号相同),量级相同,在高层大气中湍流和辐射效应符号相同,但辐射效应占优势。湍流效应和辐射效应是影响海雾生成的主要因素,平流直接作用似乎不大。平流、湍流和辐射效应及其总效应均随时间推移而减小。另外,还初步研究了风速大小和海温高低对平流、湍流和辐射效应及海雾生成的影响。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。