Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone

In this paper, (he large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads lo the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale mode! is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this pape     

Three-Dimensional Boundary Element Method Applied to Nonlinear Wave Transformation

For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves,in consid-eration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements,a combined boundary elements is appliedin this research.The method can be used to remove the transverse vibration due to the accumulation ofcomputational errors.A combined boundary condition of sponge layer and Sommerfeld radiation condi-tion is used to remove the reflected waves from the computing domain.By following the water particle onthe water surface,the third order Stokes wave transform is simulated by the numerical wave flume tech-nique.The computed results are in good agreement with theoretical ones.     

北戴河海滩泥沙捕获实验及其初步结果分析

介绍了利用泥沙捕获器观测破波带泥沙垂直分布结构的现场实验方法和基本程序，以及利用实验结果计算泥沙通量的方法。研究表明，近岸带泥沙运移通量及其在垂向上的分布受破波带相对位置和海滩地形变化的影响。在破波点附近，波浪的搅动和流场作用强，泥沙运移通量增大，泥沙在波浪的作用下可以大量进入垂直水体以悬移和跃移的方式运移。在本实验中，破波点附近的泥沙在距海底100cm的垂直水体中运移，通量垂向向上逐渐减小。远离破波点，泥沙运移通量和进入垂直水体的高度明显下降。在地形变化复杂的有坝海滩，沙坝顶部的泥沙运移通量最大，泥沙进入垂直水体运移的机率增加，而在沙坝问的沟槽内，波浪和海流作用减弱，泥沙通量和垂向进入水体运移的比例下降。     

Calculation of Wave Radiation Stress in Combination with Parabolic Mild Slope Equation

A new method for the calculation of wave radiation stress is proposed by linking the expres-sions for wave radiation stress with the variables in the parabolic mild slope equation.The governing equa-tions are solved numerically by the finite difference method.Numerical results show that the new methodis accurate enough,can be efficiently solved with little programming effort,and can be applied to the calcu-lation of wave radiation stress for large coastal areas.     

Food and Feeding Habits of the Surf Zone Penaeid Prawn Macropetasma africanus (Balss)

Abstract. Macropetasma africanus is an important component of the nearshore macrofauna in South African marine waters. Juveniles utilize high energy surf zones as nursery and maturation areas before offshore migration to spawning areas. Samples were taken from two surf zone areas and an offshore spawning area over a two year period. Spatial, seasonal, and diel variations in diet, established from stomach content analysis (N = 1020), indicate that M. africanus is an omnivorous feeder with a diet reflecting general food availability in the environment. Five major food groups were identified. Detritus was the most important food group identified in a medium energy surf zone and offshore spawning area. Phytoplankton was the major food group utilized in a high energy surf area characterized by phytoplankton blooms. Crustaceans were an important component of the diet in all three areas sampled and the remains of copepods, ostracods, isopods, amphipods, and mysids were identified. Benthic macrofauna and meiofauna are not important components of the M. africanus diet in the turbulent surf zone areas but appear more important in the offshore area. Feeding behaviour is adapted to turbulent conditions found in surf areas and the passage of food through the foregut is rapid.     

考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型

提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确.     

Wave shoaling and diffraction in current over a mild-slope

The wave relative frequency in the coordinate system moving with current and the angle between the direction of wave propagation and that of current are computed based on the wave dispersion relation. The current field is computed by solving the depth averaged shallow water equations. The wave field is computed by solving the mildslope equation which has taken the current‘s effect into account. A numerical model is established using a finite element method for simulating the wave shoaling and diffraction in current over a mild-slope, and the numerical results are reasonable to compare with the experimental data.     

考虑边界波浪方向的缓坡方程自适应求解模型

缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪运动较好的数学模型之一。在发展的自适应有限元求解缓坡方程的基础上,采用迭代求解的方法,确定波浪相对于边界的入射方向,从而对边界条件进行改进,建立了求解缓坡方程的数值计算模型。典型算例表明,考虑波浪相对于边界的入射角度后,模型可以更好地模拟吸收波浪边界,同时对多向波对双突堤的绕射进行了模拟研究,与试验结果比较表明,所建立的数值计算模型能够适用于多向不规则波传播过程的模拟研究。     

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on Wave Transformation

—A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper.which can overcome the limitationof the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple(1986).and which has a better approximation to Hedges'empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges(1987).Kirby and Dalrymple(1987)for shallow waters.The new dispersion relation is simple in form.thusit can be used easily in practice.Meanwhile,a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion rela-tion and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given.By use of the explicit approximation to the newdispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinear effect.amathematical model is obtained,and it is applied to laboratory data.The results show that the model de-veloped with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quitewell.     

Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in Wave Transformation

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Calculations of wave transformation across the surf zone

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles.     

A 3-D Numerical Model for the Calculation of Water Wave Transformation in Large Area

Based on the integral equation transformed from three dimensional Laplace equation and by the adoption of the division manner of sub- region boundary element method, the numerical computations of the velocity potential of each sub-region are given considering the continuity conditions of potential and normal derivatives at the interface of sub-regions. Therefore, computation of wave deformation in offshore flow field is realized. The present numerical model provides a good solution for the application of boundary element method to the calculation of wave deformation in large areas.     

珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究

通过波浪水槽实验对珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演变规律开展研究,实验采用了概化的岸礁模型,测试了4种礁坪水深、4种礁前斜坡坡度和一系列入射波高的组合工况。对破碎带宽度和破碎带附近波浪的入射、反射、透射以及能量耗散进行了测量分析,透射波的计算考虑了礁坪上高次谐波的影响。结果表明:礁坪水深和入射深水波高的比值(即礁坪相对水深)是影响岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化的关键参数,而礁前斜坡坡度的影响在本文测量的范围内可以忽略不计。破碎带宽度与礁坪上浅水波波长为同一数量级,并与礁坪相对水深成反比;透射系数随礁坪相对水深的增大呈线性增长,而反射系数的变化却无类似规律;岸礁能够削弱超过50%入射波能,礁坪相对水深越小,波浪破碎造成的能量耗散越大。     

A Unique Solvable Higher Order BEM for Wave Diffraction and Radiation

- For the discretization of higher order elements, this paper presents a modified integral domain method to remove the irregular frequencies inherited in the integral equation of wave diffraction and radiation from a surface-piercing body. The set of over-determined linear equations obtained from the method is modified into a normal set of linear equations by superposing a set of linear equations with zero solutions. Numerical experiments have also been carried out to find the optimum choice of the size of the auxiliary domain and the discretization on it.     

Wave Transformation and Breaking in Diagonal Opposing Current

- When waves propagate into diagonal opposing current from non-current area, not only the wave parameters but also the direction of wave propagation will change, that is, wave refraction will occur. The authors have calculated the changes of wave parameters, including wave refraction, by Linear Wave Theory, and have also done systematic study on wave transformation and breaking in opposing current by means of experimental analysis and theoretical calculation. In order to know the effect of wave refraction, computation is done in this paper about wave transformation and breaking on gentle slopes in diagonal opposing current.     

风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪变形

为确定适用黄河三角洲的波动理论，对黄河三角洲风暴期间及前后波浪连续观测资料进行了处理，将其投在komar波浪理论分区图中后，分析了风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪的波形特征，发现站位所在地适合的波浪理论主要为艾里波和斯托克斯波，风暴期间波浪变形，还存在少量超过极限波陡线的波浪，通过比较常见的极限波陡线，看出Miche曲线比较适合该研究区。     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

Wave height transformation and set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall

In this study,we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall.Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations,which involve parameters of the porous medium,were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater.The numerical solution is verified with experimental data.The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.In contrast to cases without a seawall,the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater.We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.