Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.     

适用于沙坝上Bragg反射的二阶Boussinesq方程数学模型及其数值验证

在二阶 Boussinesq 方程基础上,通过引入含水深导数项对该方程进行了理论上的改进,使得该方程在应用于无限沙坝 Bragg反射问题时与理论解析解在更大范围内符合.基于该改进的高阶 Boussinesq 方程,在非交错网格下建立了混合 4 阶的Adams-Bashforth- Moulton 格式的数学模型.将数值模型应用到有限个连续沙坝上波浪传播变形问题的数值模拟中,通过两点法给出数值波浪反射系数,将这些反射系数与已有的实验数据进行对比,对比表明改进后的模型计算出的反射系数与实验结果吻合更好,这验证了本文理论改进的有效性.     

An application of Miles' theory to Bragg scattering of water waves by doubly composite artificial bars

In the present paper, Miles' (1981) theory is implemented to derive formulae for describing the Bragg scattering of water waves for doubly composite artificial bars with different shapes, spacings, relative bar heights, relative bar footprint and the number of bars. The theory has clear advantage in estimating Bragg reflection coefficient for practical applications concerning coastal problems. Experiments of Bragg reflections over doubly composite rectangular artificial bars have also been performed in a wave flume. Key parameters that may lead to the optimal selection of a doubly composite artificial bar are studied. Theoretical solutions are seen to compare fairly well with the numerical computations and the laboratory experiments. Our simulated results reveal that the Bragg resonance for doubly composite artificial bars effectively increases the bandwidth of the reflection coefficient.     

一个改进的二阶Boussinesq方程模型在线性波浪反射问题中的适用性研究

基于改进型的二阶Boussinesq方程,在交错网络下建立数值模型.利用模型模拟波浪在常水深情况下的传播,波浪反射系数均低于2％.利用该模型模拟波浪在平斜坡前的反射,并将数值结果与解析解进行对比.结果表明,对于相对水深较大情况,坡度较陡时模拟结果明显偏大;对 于相对水深较小情况,坡度超过1:1时,数值结果仍与解析解有....     

Bragg reflection of sinusoidal waves due to trapezoidal submerged breakwaters

Numerical and laboratory experiments are performed to investigate characteristics of the Bragg reflection due to multi-arrayed trapezoidal submerged breakwaters. The numerical model is based on the Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the VOF method and the k–ε turbulence closure model. As expected, the reflection coefficients increase as the array of submerged breakwaters increases in both laboratory measurements and numerical results. The resonant periods provide similar relative wave numbers regardless of the permeability and the number of arrays. The reflection coefficients due to porous breakwaters are smaller than those due to non-porous breakwaters. The velocity contours for two and three arrays are also described.     

Alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: Derivations and validations

An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations is developed, creating a model which is fully nonlinear up to O(μ⁴) (μ is the ratio of water depth to wavelength) and has dispersion accurate to the Padé [4,4] approximation. No limitation is imposed on the bottom slope; the variable distance between free surface and sea bottom is accounted for by a σ-transformation. Two reduced forms of the model are also presented, which simplify O(μ⁴) terms using the assumption ε = O(μ^2/3) (ε is the ratio of wave height to water depth). These can be seen as extensions of Serre's equations, with dispersions given by the Padé [2,2] and Padé [4,4] approximations. The third-order nonlinear characteristics of these three models are discussed using Fourier analysis, and compared to other high-order formulations of the Boussinesq equations. The models are validated against experimental measurements of wave propagation over a submerged breakwater. Finally, the nonlinear evolution of wave groups along a horizontal flume is simulated and compared to experimental data in order to investigate the effects of the amplitude dispersion and the four-wave resonant interaction.     

Bragg Reflection of Waves by Different Shapes of Artificial Bars

Experiments are performed in a wave flume to demonstrate the Bragg reflection of linear gravity waves by artificial bars. Three different artificial bars with rectangular, triangular and rectified cosinoidal shapes are placed discretely on the seabed for measurement of the Bragg reflection. A series of experimental conditions including the number of bars, the pe-riodic bar spacing, the water depth and various wave conditions are tested. Key parameters influencing the Bragg resonances are investigated. The experimental data are compared with the values from both theoretical and numerical models. Some key parameters have proved to be effective in describing the primary resonances. Predictive equations of the charac-teristics for the Bragg reflection are proposed in this paper.     

Bragg reflection of water waves by multiple submerged semi-circular breakwaters

This study examines the Bragg reflection of water waves by multiple submerged semi-circular breakwaters. The multipole expansions combined with the shift of polar coordinates are used to develop full linear potential solutions of the problem. In the full solutions, the obliquely and normally incident waves are independently considered. Experimental tests are carried out to measure the reflection and transmission coefficients of the breakwaters at different wave periods and body spacings. The analytical results are in reasonable agreement with the experimental data. The peak reflection coefficient of multiple submerged semi-circular breakwaters and the bandwidth of Bragg reflection are carefully examined by numerical examples. Some significant results for practical application are discussed.     

Essential properties of Boussinesq equations for internal and surface waves in a two-fluid system

Boussinesq equations describing motions of internal waves in a two-fluid system with the presence of free surface are theoretically derived, and the associated essential properties are examined in this study. Eliminating the dependence on the vertical coordinate from all variables, four equations constitute the Boussinesq model with two flexible parameters, z_u and z_l, which indicate the specific elevations, respectively, in the upper and lower fluids. Similar to the Boussinesq model for a single-layer fluid, z_u and z_l are determined by matching the linear dispersion relation with Lamb's solution. This determines the optimal model. In the analysis stage, this problem is classified into two cases, the thicker-upper-layer case and the thicker-lower-case case, to avoid the possible divergence of wave properties as the thickness ratio grows. Since there exist two modes of motions that may be excited, cases of both modes are separately analyzed. Linear characteristics including the amplitude ratios and normalized particle velocities are analyzed. Second-order harmonic waves are examined to validate nonlinear behaviors of present model. Results of linear and nonlinear investigations show that the present model indeed extends the applicable range of traditional Boussinesq equations.     

Boussinesq水波方程新型数值解法

为建立高效的Boussinesq类水波数值模型,提出了一种新型的、基于有限差分和有限体积方法的混合数值格式。针对守恒形式的一维控制方程,在等间距矩形控制体内对其进行积分并离散,采用有限体积方法计算界面数值通量,剩余源项采用有限差分方法计算。其中,采用MUSTA格式并结合高精度状态插值方法计算控制体界面数值通量。时间积分则采用具有TVD性质的三阶龙格-库塔多步积分法进行。除验证模型外,重点对MUSTA格式和广泛使用的HLL格式进行了比较。结果表明,MUSTA格式可用于Boussinesq类水波方程数值求解,综合考虑数值精度、计算效率、程序编制和实际应用这几个方面,其较HLL格式更具有优势。     

Bragg reflection of water waves by multiple floating horizontal flexible membranes with submerged rectangular bars on the seabed

Bragg reflection of water waves by multiple floating horizontal flexible membranes is investigated based on the linear wave theory and the assumption of small membrane response. Under the floating horizontal membranes, periodical submerged rectangular bars are arranged on the flat seabed. The total reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained by using the eigenfunction expansion method and the wide spacing approximation. The calculated coefficients are validated with the results available in the literature, which shows that the present method is applicable. The characteristics of Bragg reflection are systematically investigated by changing various parameters including the height of the rectangular bars, the number, the tension, the spacing, and the length of the flexible membranes. The results can help designing multiple floating horizontal flexible membranes as effective floating breakwaters by taking advantage of Bragg reflection.     

多向不规则波绕射的数值模拟

采用有限元求解Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ方程数值计算模型,对单突堤和双突堤的波浪绕射进行了数值模拟,并与物模试验进行对比验证。模拟结果表明入射波浪的方向分布对波浪的绕射具有明显的影响,使防波堤后的波浪增大,开阔区域的浪浪减小,波浪的方向分布对港内波浪的分布具有一定的均化作用。     

适合复杂地形的高阶Boussinesq水波方程

针对海底坡度较大(量阶为O(1))或海底曲率较大的复杂地形,建立了一个新型高阶Boussinesq水波方程.该方程可用于研究海底存在若干相互平行沙坝引起的Bragg反射问题.方程的水平速度沿水深的分布为四次多项式,色散性和变浅作用性能的精度比经典Boussinesq方程高了一阶.方程在浅水水域可以是完全非线性的.     

Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone

In this paper, a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme is applied to study surf zone dynamics. The numerical model solves the 2DH extended Boussinesq equations proposed by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) where nonlinear and dispersive effects are both relevant whereas it solves NSWE equations where nonlinearity prevails. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method allow an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and runup; therefore no empirical (calibration) parameters are necessary. Comparison with laboratory measurements demonstrates that the proposed model can accurately predict wave height decay and mean water level setup, for both regular and solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. The model is also applied to reproduce two-dimensional wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal, showing good agreement with experimental data.     

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.     

堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数试验研究

结合物理模型试验,分析斜坡坡度、波陡、相对水深、护面类型和破波参数等因素对堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数的影响规律。将常用的Van der Meer公式,Seelig公式,Postma公式和Davison公式计算值和实测值进行比较,并结合试验数据,基于有效波高和平均周期定义的Iribarren数,得出堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数经验公式。结果表明,该公式能较好地计算不规则波作用下块石和扭王块体护面堆石防波堤波浪反射系数。     

Further improvements to the higher-order Boussinesq equations: Bragg reflection

Enhancements for the Bragg reflection are introduced for three sets of 2D higher order Boussinesq equations to improve the prediction of the Bragg reflection. The extension of the approach to other sets of Boussinesq equations is discussed. The analytical solutions for the Bragg reflection over an infinite number of sinusoidal bars are derived for these Boussinesq models and compared to the exact theoretical solution in order to determine the optimized values of the parameters in the new enhancement terms. Numerical simulations are also carried out for the Bragg reflection over a finite number of sand bars and compared with corresponding measurements to validate the enhancements. Comparisons with other forms of Boussinesq models are made to discuss the applicability of different forms of Boussinesq models to rapidly varying topography with sand bars. The effects of the mild slope assumption on the prediction of Bragg reflection and of wave reflection on a plane self are also discussed.     

Experimental study of strong reflection of regular water waves over submerged breakwaters in tandem

A series of laboratory experiments was carried out to investigate the strong reflection of regular water waves over a train of submerged breakwaters. Rectangular and trapezoidal shapes of submerged breakwaters are employed and compared for reflecting capability of incident waves. Measured reflection coefficients of regular waves over impermeable submerged breakwaters are verified by comparing with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The trapezoidal shape is recommended for a submerged breakwater in terms of reflecting capability and practical application.     

One-dimensional numerical models of higher-order Boussinesq equations with high dispersion accuracy

Abstract-Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally andnumerically. The applicability of the wave propagation model of higher-order Boussinesq equations de-rived by Zou(2000, Ocean Engneering, 27, 557～575) is investigated. Physical experiments areconducted; three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set-up in the experimentand their effects on the wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of the numerical results withtest data are made and the higher-order Boussinesq equations agree well with the measurements since thedispersion of the model is of high accuracy. The numerical results show that the good results can also beobtained for the steep-slope cases although the mild-slope assumption is employed in the derivation of thehigher-order terms in the higher-order Boussinesq equations.     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.