Calculation of Wave Reflection Coefficient for Perforated-Pipe Breakwater

The hollow-pipe perforated breakwater is of low reflection. In this paper the functions of reflection coefficients of both regular and random waves are theoretically derived, based on the concept of linear superimposition of reflected and incident waves and with the total flow rate continuity of integral form instead of the non-continuity of the boundary condition, and based on the concept of linear wave spectrum theory. Comparisons between theoretical results presented here and measurements of model tests show reasonable agreement.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

梳状防波堤上波浪反射

对梳状沉箱防波堤的波浪反射特征进行研究。在对梳状沉箱防波堤非线性消耗波能机理分析基础上,采用阻抗分析方法,导出一组所有参数都是事先知道的、完全封闭的波反射系数公式。     

Long Wave Reflection and Transmission over A Sloping Step

This investigation examines long wave reflection and transmission induced by a sloping step. Bellman and Kalaba‘s (1959) invariant imbeddlng is introduced to find wave reflection. An alternative method matching both the surface elevation and its surface slope of each region at the junction is applied to the determination of wave reflection and transmission.The proposed methods are compared with the accurate numerical results of Porter and Porter (2000) and those of Mei (1983) for a vertical step. The wave reflection obtained for a mildly sloping step differs significantly from the result of Mei. The wave reflection is found to fluctuate owing to wave trapping for the ntild sloping step. The height and the face slope of the step are important for determining wave reflection and transmission coefficients.     

Composite Type Wind Wave Frequency Spectrum

Based on the P-M spectrum and improved theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum, this paper presents the composite type wind wave frequency spectrum, which is given by 2 pieces and satisfies 4 conditions: the spectrum peak passes through a given point; spectral area m0 and significant wave height H have the relationship H = 4.0 ; at the piecewise point, the values of spectrum and slope are contin-     

多向随机波浪反射的试验研究

试验研究了多向随机波浪在直立式防波堤和斜坡式防波堤前的反射情况。在试验中，改变波浪要素(波陡、周期)、波浪入射角度(正向、斜向)和方向分布以及防波堤的坡度，以充分研究这些因素对波浪反射的影响。遗传算法用来分析多向随机波从建筑物的反射。试验结果表明，直立堤的反射系数基本上不随入射波浪方向变化，斜坡堤的反射系数随波浪峰频的增大和堤坡的变缓而减小，且随波浪方向有一定变化。还探讨了多向随机波浪在斜坡式防波堤上的反射面位置问题。     

Refraction-Diffraction Model for Irregular Wave and Directional Spectrum Considering Current

- A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented based on the time series concept, by a typical frequency and its deviation part. Numerical results, compared with those of laboratory experiments, demonstrate that new set of irregular mild slope equation with current is of good adaptability.     

Calculation of Wave Pressure and Pressure Spectrum for Perforate-Pipe Breakwater

Standing waves are formed due to the reflection when waves meet vertical wall,thereforestrong structures are needed to keep the wall stability under the serious wave attack.For the improvementof the working condition and increase of the stability of the wall,the lower reflecting breakwaters have at-tracted close attention Reports mostly from Japanese researchers are often concerned with the wall ofcaisson equipped with open windows.In this paper a kind of hollow-pipe perforated breakwater is exam-ined which waves may partially perforate into the harbour basin.The wave in front of the wall can onlyform partial standing wave and wave force is reduced obviously.And the theoretical calculation of waveforce and analysis of wave force spectrum are all derived.Comparison between the results from theoreticalcalculation and hydraulic modeling shows reasonable agreement.     

波浪谱形对不规则波数值模拟的影响

通过数值模拟分析了波浪谱形对不规则波浪数值模拟结果的影响.采用不同参数的JONSWAP谱模拟入射波要素,基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪的传播,分析了波浪谱形状对波浪数值模拟结果的影响.结果表明,采用抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪时,入射波浪谱形对模拟结果影响不明显;但由于模型中非线性项的影响,采用不规则波模拟的波高分布和采用规则波模拟的结果略有差别.     

Transformation of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

- Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.     

基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)

简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。     

锁相波浪场入、反射波方向谱及反射系数估算

通过数模波浪和物模实验，比较分析了估算多向不规则入射波与反射波相互叠加的锁相波浪场方向分布和反射系数方向分布的改进的贝叶斯估计法MBDM和扩展的最大似然法MMLM的性能。数模试验检验了不同波浪条件、不同波浪测量系统和结构物的不同反射特性等情况下的估算结果，同时还比较了两种分析方法的计算速度和稳定性，结果显示，对于波浪的方向分布估计，MBDM优于MMLM，对于反射系数的方向分布估计以及计算速度和稳定性，MMLM优于MBDM。     

基于海浪谱的海浪视景仿真技术

海浪的视景仿真有重要的应用背景与军事意义。文中围绕如何解决海浪的实时视景仿真问题,讨论了基于海浪谱的不同浪级波面的仿真模型,并讨论了海浪的实时视景仿真实现技术。这些模型与技术对于提高海浪仿真实时性与真实性有一定的参考价值。     

海浪方向谱的阵列测量

本文在系统分析国内外有关方向谱测量工作的基础上,根据实验室模型试验结果,采用由五个测波仪组成的“T”形阵列,于1991年6～7月同在渤海8号采油平台上首次进行了方向谱阵列测量,获得了宝贵的阵列测量资料。测量实施表明,选择最佳测量方案及性能稳定的测波仪器,对测量结果是至关重要的。     

潜堤对波浪传播变形的物理模型试验研究

以不可渗透光滑潜堤为研究对象,基于波浪水槽试验,分析了规则波和不规则波通过淹没梯形潜堤时的波浪外部形态变化以及内部能量变化规律。探讨了不同波浪要素(周期、波高、淹没水深)对潜堤附近波高影响的变化规律。同时,探究了潜堤斜坡坡度、堤顶淹没水深对波浪频谱在频域分布的影响。研究结果表明:当波浪通过潜堤时,波浪主频能量衰减,波浪能量由低频向高频移动;潜堤斜坡坡度越大、堤顶水深越小,波浪主频能量衰减越剧烈;波浪通过潜堤后高频波能量占潜堤次生波能量的1%~30%。     

Experimental Research on Wave Transmission over Submerged Rubble-Mound Breakwaters

This paper discusses some previous, and presents some new experimental results on wave transmission oversubmerged breakwaters. The objective of this study is to evaluate wave transmission coefficient and develop two-dimensional (2D) model as an improvement to the existing wave transmission coefficient models. Factors which affect wave transmission over submerged breakwaters are discussed through series of laboratory experiments. Basic recommendations for evaluation and design of submerged rubble-monud breakwaters are presented.From the test results, calculation formula of wave transmission coefficient is proposed.     

Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

Experimental Research on Wave Transmission over Submerged Rubble Mound Breakwaters

This paper discusses some previous, and presents some new experimental results on wave transmission over submerged breakwaters. The objective of this study is to evaluate wave transmission coefficient and develop a two-dimensional （2D） model as an improvement to the existing wave transmission coefficient models. Factors which affect wave transmission over stbmerged breakwaters are discussed through a series of laboratory experiments. Basic recommendations for evaluation and design of submerged rubble-monud breakwaters are presented. From the test results, a calculation formula of wave transmission coefficient is proposed.     

风浪槽内风浪外频谱谱形的一些特征

利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。