Modeling sediment transport in the swash zone: A review

A critical review of conceptual and mathematical models developed in recent decades on sediment transport in the swash zone is presented. Numerous studies of the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone in recent years have pointed out the importance of swash processes in terms of science advancement and practical applications. Evidently, the hydrodynamics of the swash zone are complex and not fully understood. Key hydrodynamic processes include both high-frequency bores and low-frequency infragravity motions, and are affected by wave breaking and turbulence, shear stresses and bottom friction. The prediction of sediment transport that results from these complex and interacting processes is a challenging task. Besides, sediment transport in this oscillatory environment is affected by high-order processes such as the beach groundwater flow. Most relationships between sediment transport and flow characteristics are empirical, based on laboratory experiments and/or field measurements. Analytical solutions incorporating key factors such as sediment characteristics and concentration, waves and coastal aquifer interactions are unavailable. Therefore, numerical models for wave and sediment transport are widely used by coastal engineers. This review covers mechanisms of sediment transport, important forcing factors, governing equations of wave-induced flow, groundwater interactions, empirical and numerical relations of cross-shore and longshore sediment transport in the swash zone. Major advantages and shortcomings of various numerical models and approaches are highlighted and reviewed. These will provide coastal modelers an impetus for further detailed investigations of fluid and sediment transport in the swash zone.     

沙质海岸沿岸输沙率计算方法研究进展

准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展,按研究方法对各项成果进行分类,并兼顾时间逻辑,回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨,并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料,对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明,孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高,在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上,对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。     

单颗粒碎屑矿物在海洋沉积物物源分析中的应用*

单颗粒碎屑矿物可减小源区岩石类型、蚀变过程和程度及搬运与沉积过程对物源信息释读的干扰, 已逐渐成为海洋沉积物物源分析的有力工具, 并取得一定的应用成果。目前, 锆石、石榴石、长石、辉石、角闪石、独居石及磁铁矿等均已被成功用于海洋沉积物物源研究, 并主要利用单矿物主量元素、年代学等方法精确识别物源区地质特征和位置, 但单矿物微量元素、同位素及微区结构及多矿物对比研究的应用尚有不足; 因此, 目前对物源信息的释读难免片面, 物源识别方法和技术也仍未成熟。随着方法的发展和完善, 将可开展诸多深入研究, 如通过锆石、独居石、云母和磷灰石等不同矿物的年代学研究, 示踪研究物源区的时空变化; 通过建立多矿物定量研究模型, 进而定量研究源区蚀变速率和源汇过程中的物质输运通量和过程等。文章总结单颗粒碎屑矿物在物源识别中的应用现状, 并展望其应用前景, 以期引起同行对此研究方法的关注, 进一步促进该方法在海洋沉积物物源分析中的应用和发展。     

Verification of sediment transport rate parameter on cross-shore sediment transport analysis

The sediment transport parameter helps determining the amount of sediment transport in cross-shore direction. The sediment transport parameter therefore, should represent the effect of necessary environmental factors involved in cross-shore beach profile formation. However, all the previous studies carried out for defining shape parameter consider the parameter as a calibration value. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate and grain size characteristics in the definition of transport rate parameter and thus witness their influence on the parameter. This is achieved by taking the difference in between “the equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate” and “the wave energy dissipation rate” to generate a definition for the bulk of sediment, dislocating within a given time interval until the beach tends reach an equilibrium conditions. The result yields that empirical definition of transport rate parameter primarily governs the time response of the beach profile. Smaller transport rate value gives a longer elapsed time before equilibrium is attained on the beach profile. It is shown that any significant change in sediment diameter or wave climate proportionally increases the value of the shape parameter. However, the effect of change in wave height or period on sediment transport parameter is not as credit to as mean sediment characteristics.     

Determination and control of longshore sediment transport: A case study

The fishery harbor of Karaburun coastal village is located at the south west coast of the Black Sea. The significant waves coming from north eastern direction cause considerable rate of sediment transport along 4 km sandy beach towards the fishery harbor in the region. The resulting sediment deposition near and inside the harbor entrance prevents the boat traffic and cause a vital problem for the harbor operations. In order to determine the level and reasons of the sediment transport, the long-term observations of shoreline changes, the long-term statistical analysis of wind and wave characteristics in the region, and sediment properties have been performed. The data obtained from observations, measurements and analysis were discussed. The long-term statistics of deep water significant wave heights for each direction was discussed by comparing the results obtained from different data sources and methods. For shoreline evolution, the numerical study using one-line model was applied to describe the shoreline changes with respect to probable wave conditions. Initial shoreline was obtained from the digitized image in 1996 since there was no previous shoreline measurement of the site. The results were compared using the techniques of remote sensing obtained from sequent images using IKONOS and IRS1C/D satellites.     

A three-dimensional model of suspended particulate sediment transport

Depth-averaged, one-dimensional and two-dimensional numerical models of bed and suspended particulate sediment transport provide unreliable answers for siltation and erosion quantities in situations dominated by three-dimensional flow patterns, as occur in harbour entrances due to flow separation and wind and density currents. Consequently, a numerical scheme has been developed which solves the complete three-dimensional diffusion-advection equation for suspended sediment concentration and thereby makes possible the study of siltation problems in complex, three-dimensional flows. The model analogue is based on a splitting technique and employs a mixed characteristics and finite difference approach. The accuracy and usefulness of the resulting scheme have been investigated by applying it to a number of hypothetical situations and to a laboratory situation involving the transport and dispersal of lightweight sediment. The results of the various tests show that the proposed approach works well and provides a useful basis for the study of practical problems.     

关于定量监测悬浮泥沙浓度方法的回顾和展望

获取近岸水体中悬浮物浓度及相关信息对于理解和管理海洋环境相当重要。历史上对于悬浮物浓度的监测往往通过费时费力的出海观测,而这种观测具有很大的局限性,每次观测只能获取一个站位的信息。为了更快更有效的获得即时悬浮物浓度相关信息,很多新的监测手段及相关科技被开发及应用。各种机载,卫星载遥感设各被用于获得及时,全面的沉积物信息...     

Possible diagenetic mobilization of barium in sapropelic sediment from the eastern Mediterranean

In the last few years it has frequently been suggested that Ba is a useful indicator of paleoproductivity. The formation of some sapropels in the Eastern Mediterranean is considered to be related to, or to coincide with, periods of enhanced productivity. A high-resolution sampling study has been undertaken in order to investigate whether the Ba distribution in sapropels reflects a primary input signal or whether it has been altered by diagenetic processes.

On the basis of our results we suggest that three diagenetic stages determine the distribution of Ba. During deposition of the sapropel (stage 1) Ba is mobilized as anoxic conditions prograde. After deposition of the sapropel (stage 2), a progressive oxidation front develops. This front induces the formation of Mn and Fe enrichments and barite precipitation at the oxic/anoxic boundary. Barite precipitation is believed to be caused mainly by a rise in the porewater sulphate concentration after sulphides have been oxidized by the front.

Upon burial (stage 3), suboxic conditions develop as the oxygen becomes exhausted again. In contrast to Fe- and Mn-oxyhydroxides which dissolve and reprecipitate at higher levels, barite is preserved because dissolved sulphate is not depleted.

The interpretation of the Ba distribution in organic-rich sediment is not straightforward. Diagenetic reallocation of a primary Ba signal will possibly disturb the relationship between Ba and organic production. Consequently, one must be very cautious when invoking Ba as a paleoproductivity indicator.     

Shoreline response to submerged structures: A review

Submerged coastal structures are widely perceived to be capable of providing beach protection, without the adverse impacts (including loss of beach amenity and aesthetic considerations) often associated with more conventional structures such as revetments and groynes. In addition, there is growing interest in the concept that the layout and cross-section of submerged coastal protection structures can be optimised to also enhance local surfing conditions. However, as submerged structures have only rarely been adopted for beach protection, the shoreline response to these structures is not well understood at present. Therefore, this review of the available published literature was undertaken with the aim of investigating the environmental and structural parameters governing shoreline response to submerged structures, gleaned from the results of field, laboratory and numerical studies undertaken to date.The review reveals that, contrary to expectations, a majority of the submerged structures constructed to date have resulted in shoreline erosion in their lee. Furthermore, the key environmental and structural parameters governing the mode (i.e. erosion or accretion) and the magnitude (i.e. size of salient) of shoreline response to submerged structures are yet to be identified. Although submerged coastal structures offer the potential for low aesthetic impact incorporating multi-function design, until the response of the adjacent shoreline to submerged structures is better resolved, their use is likely to remain relatively limited.     

Gulf of Mexico sediment sources and sediment transport trends from magnetic susceptibility measurements of surface samples

The magnetic properties from 200 trigger core-top and Van Veen grab sediment samples recovered from throughout the Gulf of Mexico have been analyzed and used to characterize sediment source and flow pattern distributions. Magnetic parameters included are anhysteretic remanent magnetism (ARM) and magnetic susceptibility (MS) measurements. Results from these measurements are compared to previously determined calcium carbonate percentages, and clay and hematite influx trajectories into the Gulf of Mexico for the same samples reported by Balsam and Beeson [Balsam, W.L. and Beeson, J.P., 2003. Sea-floor sediment distribution in the Gulf of Mexico, Deep-Sea Res. I, 50, 1421–1444.]. The ARM results give an estimate of magnetic grain size distributions, and by analogy, grain size distributions in general, whereas MS patterns show high detrital sediment accumulation zones within the Gulf. The dominant influx of modern high susceptibility sediment into the Gulf of Mexico appears to originate from the Red River, flow into Atchafalaya River Basin and out into the Gulf from Atchafalaya Bay, with significant additional contributions from the Mississippi River through the Southwest Pass of the Mississippi River Delta. This material then moves across the continental shelf and down through the Mississippi Canyon into the deep Gulf where it is redistributed at depths > 3600 m. The eastern shelf margins in the Gulf, offshore from Alabama and Florida, are accumulating calcite- or quartz-rich medium to fine-grained sediment that has a very low or diamagnetic MS signature. From the Louisiana to Texas Gulf coast margins, MS is moderate to high, suggesting a river influx of magnetic constituents from the volcanic fields in New Mexico, and from igneous and metamorphic sources in the Mississippi Basin. Offshore from western Mexico, the MS is high to moderate, but the Yucatan Shelf margin is characterized by low to diamagnetic MS values due to sediment dominated by calcite sands and oozes, a trend that continues to the east onto the West Florida Shelf. Additional measurements of samples collected in association with sites characterized by hydrocarbon seepage exhibit anomalously low MS values. The samples from the lower shelf and slope areas are typified by iron reduction by bacterial organisms in these samples. These results produce anomalous localized lows in the MS trends observed.     

Geochemistry of eastern Mediterranean sediments: Primary sediment composition and diagenetic alterations

Two cores recovered in the eastern Mediterranean were analysed for major, minor and trace elements. The primary chemical composition of the sediment is different at each location, probably because the lithological sources and the relative biogenic contributions differ.

Carbonates are important for the concentration of Ca, Mg and Sr, whereas aluminosilicates determine the concentration of Si, Al, K, Li, Y and Be, and to a lesser extent that of Fe, Cr, Ti, Mg, Zn and Zr. In sapropels, organic carbon and sulphur seem to be closely related. Bromine, Mo, P, Fe, V, Cu, Zn, Co, Ni and Cr are closely associated with organic and sulphidic compounds. The concentration versus depth profile for organic carbon in two sapropels points to a rapid establishment of conditions that gave rise to sapropel formation, followed by a gradual transition back to “normal” conditions.

The primary composition is overprinted by diagenetic processes. Sulphate-reducing conditions occurred during and just after sapropel deposition. A progressive oxidation front mechanism, which became active after sapropel deposition, is responsible for additional major geochemical changes. This diagenetic phenomenon has strong implications for the chemistry of Fe, Mn, Ni, Co, Zn, Cu, Cr, V, U, As and Sb.     

Small-scale sediment transport patterns and bedform morphodynamics: new insights from high-resolution multibeam bathymetry

New multibeam echosounder and processing technologies yield sub-meter-scale bathymetric resolution, revealing striking details of bedform morphology that are shaped by complex boundary-layer flow dynamics at a range of spatial and temporal scales. An inertially aided post processed kinematic (IAPPK) technique generates a smoothed best estimate trajectory (SBET) solution to tie the vessel motion-related effects of each sounding directly to the ellipsoid, significantly reducing artifacts commonly found in multibeam data, increasing point density, and sharpening seafloor features. The new technique was applied to a large bedform field in 20–30 m water depths in central San Francisco Bay, California (USA), revealing bedforms that suggest boundary-layer flow deflection by the crests where 12-m-wavelength, 0.2-m-amplitude bedforms are superimposed on 60-m-wavelength, 1-m-amplitude bedforms, with crests that often were strongly oblique (approaching 90°) to the larger features on the lee side, and near-parallel on the stoss side. During one survey in April 2008, superimposed bedform crests were continuous between the crests of the larger features, indicating that flow detachment in the lee of the larger bedforms is not always a dominant process. Assessment of bedform crest peakedness, asymmetry, and small-scale bedform evolution between surveys indicates the impact of different flow regimes on the entire bedform field. This paper presents unique fine-scale imagery of compound and superimposed bedforms, which is used to (1) assess the physical forcing and evolution of a bedform field in San Francisco Bay, and (2) in conjunction with numerical modeling, gain a better fundamental understanding of boundary-layer flow dynamics that result in the observed superimposed bedform orientation.     

Ebb-tidal jets: A model of suspended sediment and mass transport at tidal inlets

Mass transport by turbulent jets issuing from tidal inlets is investigated through a model that includes lateral mixing and entrainment, bottom friction, bathymetric changes, settling rate of particles (size), possible deposition/erosion at the bottom and ambient currents and concentrations. The bottom frictional jet becomes diluted more slowly than a classical jet. A non-vanishing concentration may result offshore and a maximum may occur in the core. The concentration of a jet on a sloping bottom decreases more rapidly due to increased dilution by entraiment. The effects of bottom friction and bottom slope compete in determining the jet concentration. Deposition to the bottom occurs within the jet mainly on both sides of the centre-line, and at lower rates on the centre-line. Erosion or deposition may occur at the jet core depending on the inlet flow conditions. In the case of erosion at the core, the material extracted is deposited on the margins and the offshore areas. Sorting of the sediments is expected, with coarser materials mainly deposited in the marginal areas, while the finer sediments are more uniformly distributed and jetted further off-shore. The main features of the model are verified through a limited set of observations. The qualitative agreement is enhanced for micro- and meso-tidal inlets that are dominated by tidal hydraulics.     

海岸河口泥沙数学模型研究进展

对海岸河口泥沙运动的基本方程、数值方法、边界条件、参数选取等进行了归纳总结和评述,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用。     

涌潮水沙动力过程现场观测研究进展

涌潮是潮波传播过程中产生的一种自然现象,是潮波非线性畸变的结果。涌潮有波状和破碎形态之分,波状涌潮是一系列平行向前传播的涌波构成的波列,破碎涌潮则是前锋陡立向前推进的水滚。基于国内外涌潮水沙动力过程现场观测的主要成果,从形成机理出发,归纳涌潮生成的必要条件,剖析潮波运动非线性和摩擦效应对涌潮生成的影响;针对典型的波状和破碎涌潮,总结潮头的自由表面特征参数、流动结构和传播演化特征;回顾涌潮局部湍流和混合过程、泥沙输运和沉积的研究进展,评述涌潮脉冲过程对河口生态环境的影响。涌潮的周期性传播引起自然系统的大规模混合,对潮汐河口区域的生态环境平衡具有重要意义。涌潮现象的研究推动潮汐学的发展,现场观测是涌潮研究的基础。随着仪器设备和分析手段的进步,涌潮多尺度生成与演化机制、涌潮多物理过程耦合作用机理和涌潮脉冲过程的生态效应定量评价是今后需要深入研究的问题。     

Progressive deformation of an evaporite-bearing accretionary complex: SeaMARC I,SeaBeam and piston-core observations from the Mediterranean Ridge

The Mediterranean Ridge is an arcuate ridge of deformed sediment caught up in the convergent plate margin between the African plate and the Aegean. An intensive campaign of SeaMARC I and SeaBeam surveys followed by piston coring has been conducted along the contact between undeformed turbidites of the Sirte Abyssal Plain and folded and faulted sediments of the Mediterranean Ridge. Along the outer edge of the Ridge, surficial sediments have been deformed into sinusoidal ridges and troughs (wavelengths 0.5–2 km, amplitude 20–150 m), which we interpret as folds. In plan view, the ridge and the trough fabric parallels the NW-SE trending regional contours, suggesting that the folds formed in response to compression orthogonal to the Mediterranean Ridge. The outermost ridge is shedding a debris apron out onto the abyssal plain, implying that uplift and deformation are ongoing. We show that the geometry of the outermost folds can be produced by elastic bending of a packet of 5–10 relatively strong layers, each 10–20 m thick, interbedded between weaker layers; we equate the strong layers with gypsum beds in the Messinian upper evaporites. Folding the seafloor from a flat layer into the observed ridge and trough topography would shorten the layer by less than 2%. Two percent shortening (equals two percent thickening) is insufficient to create the observed relief of the Mediterranean Ridge even if the entire sediment column down to basement were involved; we infer that additional shortening/thickening is accommodated by thrust faulting above a decollement at the top of the Messinian salt layer. At distances > 15 km from the deformation front and more than 500 m from the abyssal plain, sharp-edged, fine-grained side-scan lineations with very little vertical relief cut across the kilometer-scale ridge and trough topography. These fine-grained lineations fall in two groups trending N/S to NNE/SSW and ~ENE. We interpret these lineaments as traces of conjugate strike-slip faults formed in the same compressional regime which formed the NW/SE trending folds. The onset of strike-slip faulting may coincide with the cessation of imbricate thrust fan development above the initial salt-controlled decollement surface. The following characteristics of the Mediterranean Ridge are attributed to the presence of evaporites in the incoming sedimentary section: (1) initial deformation by folding rather than thrust faulting; (2) narrow taper; (3) rapid rate of outward growth; (4) karstification.     

Time-series measurements of Th in water column and sediment trap samples from the northwestern Mediterranean Sea

Disequilibrium between ²³⁴Th and ²³⁸U in water column profiles has been used to estimate the settling flux of Th (and, by proxy, of particulate organic carbon); yet potentially major non-steady-state influences on ²³⁴Th profiles are often not able to be considered in estimations of flux. We have compared temporal series of ²³⁴Th distributions in the upper water column at both coastal and deep-water sites in the northwestern Mediterranean Sea to coeval sediment trap records at the same sites. We have used sediment trap records of ²³⁴Th fluxes to predict temporal changes in water column ²³⁴Th deficits and have compared the predicted deficits to those measured to determine whether the time-evolution of the two coincide. At the coastal site (327 m water depth), trends in the two estimates of water column ²³⁴Th deficits are in fairly close agreement over the 1-month deployment during the spring bloom in 1999. In contrast, the pattern of water column ²³⁴Th deficits is poorly predicted by sediment trap records at the deep-water site (DYFAMED, 2300 m water depth) in both 2003 and 2005. In particular, the transition from a mesotrophic to an oligotrophic system, clearly seen in trap fluxes, is not evident in water column ²³⁴Th profiles, which show high-frequency variability. Allowing trapping efficiencies to vary from 100% does not reconcile the differences between trap and water column deficit observations; we conclude that substantial lateral and vertical advective influences must be invoked to account for the differences.Advective influences are potentially greater on ²³⁴Th fluxes derived from water column deficits relative to those obtained from traps because the calculation of deficits in open-ocean settings is dominated by the magnitude of the “dissolved” ²³⁴Th fraction. For observed current velocities of 5–20 cm s⁻¹, in one radioactive mean-life of ²³⁴Th, the water column at the DYFAMED site can reflect ²³⁴Th scavenging produced tens to hundreds of kilometers away. In contrast, most of the ²³⁴Th flux collected in shallow sediment traps at the DFYFAMED site was in the fraction settling >200 m d⁻¹; in effect the sediment trap can integrate the ²³⁴Th flux over distances 40-fold less than water column ²³⁴Th distributions. In some sense, sediment trap and water column sampling for ²³⁴Th provide complementary pictures of ²³⁴Th export. However, because the two methods can be dominated by different processes and are subject to different biases, their comparison must be treated with caution.