SWAN模型在设计波浪要素计算中的应用研究

采用SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模型搭建了覆盖整个台湾海峡和台湾岛东部部分海域的波浪模型,并利用此模型计算了常风浪场、崇武海洋站设计波浪要素和西沙湾海域极值波浪场.计算结果显示,在常风浪模拟中,4个浮标站计算值与实测值有效波高绝对误差均在0.20 m以内,平均绝对误差值为0.13 m...     

0908号台风“莫拉克”影响期间福建西沙湾海域台风浪的数值模拟

联合SWAN模型和改进的椭圆型缓坡方程,结合考虑台湾海峡地形效应的改进藤田公式风场模型,建立了台湾海峡及近岸波浪场的数值嵌套模式.边界采用波谱离散驱动,模拟了0908号台风“莫拉克”期间台湾海峡波浪场的演变和崇武西沙湾浅水台风浪传播的物理过程.以实测数据进行单点验证表明,整个模拟过程风速的平均绝对误差为3.38 m/s,波高的平均绝对误差为0.30 m,计算结果较好地反映海峡内波浪对台风的响应过程.“莫拉克”台风登陆台湾岛时,台湾海峡有效波高最大值为5.0m;台风中心进入台湾海峡后,海峡东北部为巨浪到狂涛,有效波高最大值可达10.5 m.接近福建崇武沿岸时,偏E向台风浪向西沙湾内近岸传播,发生浅化、破碎、反射、绕射等变形现象,有效波高最大不足2 m,最小仅为0.2m,波向趋于SE向,波峰线则趋于与峡湾岸线平行;崇武闽台贸易码头附近,大部分波浪受到阻挡作用发生反射,少部分发生绕射,使得码头以北水域波浪较小,有效波高仅为0.2 ～0.6 m,对湾内避风坞起到较好的保护作用.     

长江口附近海域台风浪的数值模拟--以鹿沙台风和森拉克台风为例

利用SWAN波浪模型计算长江口附近海域的台风浪,鉴于长江河口岸界和地形复杂,拟采用曲线网格.为证实曲线网格下的SWAN模型对于复杂地形的有效性,首先选用美国特拉华大学波浪水池实验资料对SWAN模型进行检验,结果表明利用曲线网格能不过多增加计算量而提高关键区域的计算精度.以0215号鹿沙台风和0216号森拉克台风为例,将SWAN模型应用到长江口附近海域,进行台风浪的数值模拟.通过浮标测站实测资料验证,表明有效波高计算值与实测值符合良好.通过综合分析模型计算的波浪场,说明SWAN模型能合理地反映长江口附近海域台风浪的分布.     

基于Boussinesq方程近岸波浪演变的数值研究

首先对目前描述近岸波浪传播变形的数学模型进行了回顾与总结;对不同数学模型的特点、适用范围和发展情况进行了阐述与对比。应用基于Boussinesq方程的Coulwave模式针对几个经典实验地形进行了数值实验,数值结果和实验实测数据吻合较好。此外,分别采用不同的近岸波浪模型模拟了某渔港附近波浪的传播变形,结果表明:当考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射联合作用时,Coulwave模式计算结果明显较缓坡方程及SWAN模型计算结果更加合理。     

基于改进缓坡方程的波浪传播数值模拟

用变分原理导出考虑底坡一阶导数平方项和二阶曲率项影响的缓坡方程,对传统缓坡方程作了改进,提高波浪在海底地形变化剧烈、水深较浅时数值模拟精度。数值计算与已有实验室试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟有剧烈变化的海底地形的波浪传播,比传统缓坡方程模型计算结果在精度上有明显提高。     

适于模拟不规则水域波浪的缓坡方程两种数值模型比较

本文分析比较了适于不规则水域波浪模拟的椭圆型缓坡方程两种数值模型。两种数值模型均采用有限体积法离散,分别基于四叉树网格和非结构化三角形网格建立。首先结合近岸缓坡地形上波浪传播的经典物理模型实验对两种数值模型分别进行了验证,并结合计算结果对比分析了两种模型的计算精度和效率。计算结果表明,两种数值模型均可有效地模拟近岸波浪的传播变形;相对非结构化三角形网格下的模型,基于四叉树网格建立的数值模型在数值离散和求解过程中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,离散简单,易于程序实现,且节约计算存储空间,计算效率高。     

基于WRF-SWAN耦合模式的台风“威马逊”波浪场数值模拟

获取高分辨率的风场数据和气压场数据是精确模拟台风浪的基础,采用经验公式构建台风风场和气压场对海浪模式进行驱动,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以提供高精度的风场、气压场数据。本文基于中尺度大气模式WRF(Weather Research and Forecasting model)和第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore model),构建了南中国海地区大气—海浪实时双向耦合模式,针对超强台风"威马逊"进行数值模拟。将数值模拟结果与现场观测结果及卫星高度计观测结果进行对比验证,验证结果表明,本文建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式在对台风"威马逊"影响下的南中国海台风浪的模拟中展现出较高的模拟精度,揭示了台风风场分布和台风浪分布在空间上的"右偏性"不对称分布特征及其形成机制。基于WRF和SWAN建立的大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式能够准确模拟台风动力过程以及台风浪的时空分布特征,可以推广用于南中国海地区台风浪的模拟分析。     

南海北部一次台风浪过程的数值模拟

采用Holland 模型将2009 年6 号台风莫拉菲参数化, 并通过一个权重系数将模型风场和背景风场叠加起来, 构造了南海北部台风过境时的风场。随后通过时空插值, 将该风场以空间分辨率5′×5′、时间步长1 h 的精度输入到SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模式中, 模拟了莫拉菲台风通过时南海北部的海浪场。然后使用Jason-2 卫星波高数据对模式进行了验证, 结果表明模式结果与实测值吻合良好。利用模式结果我们分析了台风中心和海浪场的最大有效波高中心的位置关系, 以及台风风场结构和海浪场结构的关系。最后, 通过计算海浪场的能量并将其与风要素和浪要素对比, 我们研究了台风过境期间海浪场的动力机制。     

不同湍流模型在波浪水槽数值模拟中的 应用与比较

为了研究不同湍流模型在建立数值水槽中的适用性,选用计算流体力学软件,采用S-A、标准的k-着及RNG k-着 等8种不同的湍流模型对水槽中的波浪进行了数值模拟,通过对比得到：RNG k-着模型不仅具有较高的精度,而且又节省计 算资源,较其它模型更具优势。     

潮汐和流影响下长江口波浪场数值计算

采用SWAN模型和REF/DIF模型进行嵌套计算的方法来获取长江口海域实际波浪场.其中设计一种根据入射波向即时生成计算网格的方法,解决REF/DIF模型对于波浪入射角的限制从而实现两种模型的嵌套.为考虑水流和潮位分布的空间差异对波浪传播变形的作用,利用二维流场模型计算长江口的水位和流场过程,在实际波浪计算中引入了水位和水流作用.计算结果与观测资料的对比表明:1)SWAN模型和REF/DIF模型的嵌套计算方法可以作为提高浅水区域波浪计算精度的一种有效途径;2)水位和水流对长江口波浪计算的影响显著,考虑了水位和水流条件后,尤其是在大潮期间,能比较显著地提高计算精度.     

Simulating typhoon waves by SWAN wave model in coastal waters of Taiwan

The SWAN wave model is typically designed for wave simulations in the near-shore region and thus is selected for evaluating its applicability on typhoon waves in the coastal waters around Taiwan Island. Numerical calculations on processes of wave heights and periods during the passages of four representative typhoons are compared with measured data from field wave stations on both east and west coasts. The results have shown that waves due to typhoons of paths 2, 3 and 4 can be reasonably simulated on east coastal waters. However, discrepancies increase for the simulated results on west coastal waters because the island's central mountains partly damage the cyclonic structures of the passing-over typhoons. It is also found that the included nested grid scheme in SWAN could improve the accuracy of simulations in coastal waters to facilitate further engineering practices.     

A time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation

On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area.     

抛物型缓坡方程的变分及数值模拟

对线性水波的折射一绕射问题应用变分原理,对非等深、具有缓坡和不连续的底被导出了一种修改的抛物型缓坡方程近似模型,可预测三维地形上波浪的折射一绕射。同抛物型缓坡方程的线性方程进行了对比。通过数值模拟方法进行数值求解,表明本方法可用于地形条件下的波浪折射一绕射问题。     

基于Holland台风模型及三重嵌套海浪模式的台风浪数值模拟研究

现有的风场资料存在台风中心附近风速偏低的问题。为改进台风期间风场数据, 使用Holland经验台风模型结合多平台交叉校准数据(cross-calibrated multi-platform, CCMP)及欧洲中期天气预报中心的再分析数据(European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis data, ERA5)风场资料, 研究了不同台风最大风速半径(maximum wind radius of the typhoon, RMW)、Holland B参数对模拟效果的影响, 确定了最优模拟参数, 并以改进后的风场驱动三重嵌套海浪模型对台风“威马逊”发生期间的台风浪进行模拟。模拟结果与实测数据对比表明, (1)改进的风场资料与实测结果更为接近, 作为海浪模式驱动项可更好地模拟台风期间波浪状况; (2)三重嵌套海浪模型的波浪模拟效果优于单独的海浪模型。     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

基于SWAN模型的南中国海“莫拉菲”台风浪研究

我国的水运工程建设频繁受到台风浪的侵袭。为了对台风浪的防灾减灾提供有益帮助,本文基于第三代海浪模式SWAN建立了南中国海台风浪数值模型,并以“0906”号台风“莫拉菲”为例对模拟结果进行了分析。结果表明,台风风场与波浪场相似,即大小均由中心向外围递减,方向均为逆时针旋转;台风风场呈圆对称分布,而波浪场由于受到海底地形与岸线影响,呈现椭圆对称分布。有效波高等值线亦从中心向外围递减,且形状受地形与岸线影响较大。对台风浪组成机制的探讨结果显示风浪和涌浪均可组成台风浪,且海底地形与岸线(例如岛屿效应)亦对台风浪特性有所影响。     

An extended time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation with weakly nonlinear amplitude dispersion

In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone.     

Three dimensional application of the complementary mild-slope equation

The complementary mild-slope equation (CMSE) is a depth-integrated equation, which models refraction and diffraction of linear time-harmonic water waves. For 2D problems, it was shown to give better agreements with exact linear theory compared to other mild-slope (MS) type equations. However, no reference was given to 3D problems. In contrast to other MS-type models, the CMSE is derived in terms of a stream function vector rather than in terms of a velocity potential. For the 3D case, this complicates the governing equation and creates difficulties in formulating an adequate number of boundary conditions. In this paper, the CMSE is re-derived using Hamilton's principle from the Irrotational Green–Naghdi equations with a correction for the 3D case. A parabolic version of it is presented as well. The additional boundary conditions needed for 3D problems are constructed using the irrotationality condition. The CMSE is compared with an analytical solution and wave tank experiments for 3D problems. The results show very good agreement.