The effect of Stokes drift on Ekman transport in the open sea

By introducing the wave-induced Coriolis-Stokes forcing into ageostrophic motion equation,the Eulerian transport is modified by the wave-induced Stokes drift.The long-term mean contributions of the Stokes transport with remotely generated swells being included to the ageostrophic transport are analyzed using the ECMWF(European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts) reanalysis data.The ratio of Stokes transport to Ekman transport in north-south(N-S) direction can reach a maximum of over 50% in the subtropical region.The preliminary influence of the Stokes transport on the North Pacific gyre is all year persistent,while the effect on the North Atlantic gyre is only obvious in boreal winter and early spring.     

Wave propagation over a deformable sea floor

The propagation of water waves over a deformable bottom is examined theoretically for the case where the soil beneath the water is regarded as an elastic solid. Equations are given for calculating wave speeds, soil displacements and stresses, and water motion and pressure. Detailed wave-speed solutions are worked out for the case of an incompressible soil. The effects of soil inertia are included in the analysis, and it is shown that such effects cannot generally be ignored without committing serious error.     

Coherent reflection of an acoustic plane wave from a random sediment layer over an elastic sea floor

The problem of coherent reflection of an acoustic plane wave from a seabed consisting of a randomly inhomogeneous sediment layer overlying a uniform elastic sea floor is considered in this analysis. The random perturbation in the sediment layer is attributable to the sound-speed variations, resulting in volume scattering due to medium inhomogeneities. An approach based upon perturbation theory, combining with a derived Green's function for a slab bounded above and below, respectively, by a fluid and an elastic half-space, is employed to obtain an analytic solution for the coherent field in the sediment layer. A linear system is then constructed to facilitate the computation of the coherent reflection field. The results of the coherent reflection coefficient for various sediment randomness, frequency, sediment thickness, and sea floor elasticity have been numerically generated and analyzed. It is found that the higher/larger the randomness, frequency, thickness, and shear-wave speed, the lower is the coherent reflection. Physical interpretations for the characteristics of the various results are provided.     

Combined refraction and diffraction models for sea waves over complicated topography and with currents in shallow water

-Combined refraction and diffraction models in the form of linear parabolic approximation are derived through smallparameter method. More strictly theoretical basis and more accuracy in the models than Lozano's (1980) are obtained. Some theoretical defects in Liu's model (1985) with consideration of current are not only found but also eliminated. More strict and accurate models are, therefore, presented in this paper.The calculation results and analysis in applying the models to actual wave field with consideration of bottom friction will be given in the following paper.     

Beamforming on seismic interface waves with an array of geophoneson the shallow sea floor

The problem of locating very low frequency sound sources in shallow water is made difficult by the interaction of propagating acoustic waves with the sea floor. Slow wave speeds and the attendant short wavelengths suggest that low frequency beamforming and source localization with sea floor geophones can be accomplished with relatively small arrays when compared with hydrophone arrays in the water column. To test the feasibility of this approach, experiments were carried out in the shallow water of the Malta Channel of the Straits of Sicily where the Scholte wave speed was some 10 to 20 times slower that the speed of sound in water. A linear array of ten vertically gimballed geophones was deployed and measurements were made on propagating seismic wave fields generated by explosive shots. The resulting directivities, beam patterns, and sidelobe characteristics are in excellent agreement with array theory, which suggests that coherent processing is a viable technique on which to base new applications for seismic arrays on the sea floor. Supporting materials on the geophysics of Scholte waves and calculations of the wave field at the site are presented     

Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf residual currents

Current meter data collected over the last 20 years are presented and used to describe the residual currents on the Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf regions. On the slopes, a poleward current of about 6cm s⁻¹ exists at the 500m depth contour. At mid depths, these currents are directed onslope, whereas near the bottom the flow in markedly downslope, reaching mean speeds of about 15cm s⁻¹ near 6°40′W. The downslope currents are thought to be largely tidally induced and balanced by Stokes transports. The total slope transport near 48°N is about 4Sv. On the upper slopes (<1000m depth) the transport increases poleward. On the outer Celtic shelf, a weak (2 cm s⁻¹) counter-current flowing southeastwards was observed. On the Armorican shelf, the residual flow is again nothwestwards and this coastal flow appears to continue northwards across the mouth of the English Chanel and past the Isles of Scilly with typical mean upper layer speeds of about 2cm s⁻¹. Southwest of Ireland the flow is again northwesterly. Numerical model simulations show that the eastern slope boundary current of the NE Atlantic can be driven by realistic distributions of seawater density. The simulations also show only a small wind driven barotropic response on the Celtic and Armorican shelf region and that a component of the residual shelf flows, like the slope current, may be driven by pressure distributions arising from regional differences in the distribution of seawater density, or from non local wind stress.     

Tidal and residual currents around a Norfolk Sandbank

Currents on either side of Well Bank were recorded for 41 days in May–June 1981, in order to distinguish locally tidally-generated asymmetries (pertinent to maintenance of the bank) from larger-scale and wind-driven flows.Semi-diurnal currents were dominant, nearly rectilinear and slightly inclined to the bank axis.Fourth-diurnal currents were consistent with previously observed and computed fourth-diurnal tides for the area overall; amplitudes varied as the square of the semi-diurnal amplitude. Hence they appear to be generated by tides, but only a small part locally.Residual currents (average over a tidal cycle) were always in the sense of clock-wise circulation around the bank, consistent with simple models and giving strong evidence of local generation by tides. This circulation combines with the semidiurnal currents to maintain the bank. The slow increase of the residuals with the semi-diurnal amplitude is interpreted as an effect of strong semi-diurnal currents. A persistent component onto the bank 7 m above the bottom at one position may indicate distortion of the frictional layer by the sloping bottom or by bank curvature.     

Combined tidal and wind driven flows and residual currents

The effect of a residual current on the combined tidal and wind driven flow and the resulting bedload sediment transport in the ocean has been investigated, using a simple one dimensional two-equation turbulence closure model. Predictions of the combined tidal and wind driven flow with given residual currents are presented, showing that the residual current has a substantial effect on both the depth averaged mass transport and the mean bedload transport directions; in some cases the effect of the residual current is to almost reverse the mean bedload transport direction. The residual current affects the rotation of the flow due to the Coriolis effect in the lower part of the water column (the near-surface flow is wind dominated), causing a larger or smaller clockwise rotation of the depth averaged mass transport, depending on the direction of the residual current.     

乐清湾的潮位、潮流和余流特征

2008年7月至2009年4月在乐清湾进行了代表春、夏、秋、冬4个季节的航次调查,设置了Y4、Y14、Y15和A共4个连续观测站位,共得到12组实测的海流流速和10组CTD数据。采用潮汐调和分析法分析了距江厦潮汐能试验电站3 km处的潮汐站位连续19个月的潮位资料,结合调查数据特性和乐清湾潮汐特点,引入M2与S2、O1与K1、M4与MS4、2MS6与M6分潮之间的差比关系,对连续观测站位的潮位和潮流进行准调和分析。潮位的统计和准调和分析结果显示:Y4、Y14、Y15站位和潮汐站位8个分潮振幅和的航次调查平均值为3.75,4.02,3.94和4.03 m,(HO1+HK1)/HM2的航次调查平均值为0.32,0.28,0.32和0.24。Y4、Y14、Y15和潮汐站位的M4、MS4、M6和2MS6浅水分潮振幅的航次调查平均值分别为0.20,0.31,0.35和0.25 m,M6和2MS6浅水分潮振幅的航次调查平均值分别为0.03,0.15,0.17和0.15 m。不同航次调查4个连续观测站位涨潮最大流速的平均值为81.5 cm/s,落潮最大流速的平均值为103.1 cm/s。Y4、Y14和Y15站位潮流的M2和S2分潮振幅百分比分别为86%,65%和68%,浅水分潮振幅百分比分别为11%,29%和25%。M4、MS4分潮振幅之和分别是M6、2MS6分潮振幅之和的2.1,1.2和1.7倍。由潮位和潮流的分析结果可知:从乐清湾湾口至湾顶,潮汐逐渐增强,半日潮比率逐渐增大,半日潮型的特性更为明显;浅水分潮强度逐渐增加,其中M6和2MS6分潮强度增强更为明显。位于湾口的Y4站位在秋季(2008年10月)航次调查时的日平均余流流向为西南偏南方向,冬季(2009年1月)和春季(2009年4月)航次调查时的余流流向为东南偏南方向。Y4站位余流受灵霓大坝影响,大坝建成后湾口余流改变方向,向南流出乐清湾。位于湾顶的Y14站位,余流流速变化不大,但方向变化明显,夏季(2008年7月)为西南方向,秋季为西南偏南方向,冬季为西南偏西方向,春季又为西南偏南方向。Y15站位余流流速较小,但方向变化明显。A站位两个航次调查时的余流流向均为东北方向。     

Ocean currents determine functional connectivity in an Antarctic deep‐sea shrimp

The coherency among larval stages of marine taxa, ocean currents and population connectivity is still subject to discussion. A common view is that organisms with pelagic larval stages have higher dispersal abilities and therefore show a relatively homogeneous population genetic structure. Contrary to this, local genetic differentiation is assumed for many benthic direct developers. Specific larval or adult migratory behavior and hydrographic effects may significantly influence distribution patterns, rather than passive drifting abilities alone. The Southern Ocean is an ideal environment to test for the effects of ocean currents on population connectivity as it is characterized by several well‐defined and strong isolating current systems. In this study we studied the genetic structure of the decapod deep‐sea shrimp Nematocarcinus lanceopes, which has planktotrophic larval stages. We analysed 194 individuals from different sample localities around the Antarctic continent using nine microsatellite markers. Consistent with a previous study based on mitochondrial DNA markers, primarily weak genetic patterns among N. lanceopes populations around the continent were found. Using ocean resistance modeling approaches we were able to show that subtle genetic differences among populations are more likely explained by ocean currents rather than by geographic distance for the Atlantic Sector of the Southern Ocean.     

Tide-induced Lagrangian residual velocity and dynamic analysis based on field observations in the inner Xiangshan Bay,China

In the Xiangshan Bay at the east coast of China, coastal marine pollution is conspicuous and severe in recent years. As transport of the pollutants is closely related to the coastal circulation, there is a great practical significance to investigate the circulation in this area. In this work, the surface pattern and vertical profiles of Lagrangian residual velocity (LRV) were studied based on field observation data from the inner Xiangshan Bay. By tracking GPS-GPRS drifters’ trajectories, the surface LRV pattern is going out in the central deep trough and flowing inwards near the shoreside. Combined with data from two mooring stations, vertical profiles of LRV is flowing out at surface and flowing in at the bottom, consistent with the gravitational circulation induced by baroclinic effects at the estuary. However, according to the diagnostic analysis, the main mechanism driving the residual current is barotropic rather than baroclinic. The LRV equation is controlled by the tidally-averaged barotropic pressure gradient force, tidal body force and tidally-averaged turbulent stress, while the tidally-averaged baroclinic pressure gradient force is one order of magnitude less than other forces. Additionally, the tidally mean eddy viscosity coefficient which is used in the expression of tidally-averaged turbulent stress might be not adequate and requires further studies.     

北仑河口潮流和余流特征分析

北仑河口水动力状况复杂,受入海径流、潮汐、波浪、沿岸流、风应力等多种因子的共同影响.对北仑河口S1、S2站长序列的海流剖面资料进行数学统计、潮流调和分析和数字滤波,探讨其潮流特征和余流形成机制.分析结果表明:北仑河口潮流性质主要为不规则全日潮流;观测期间S1站实测涨、落潮最大流速分别为39、83 cm/s,S2站分别为52、44 cm/s.研究海域余流流速从表层往底层逐渐减小,其中S1站余流流速主要介于5～10 cm/s之间,流向集中在S-SW向,S2站主要介于0～5 cm/s之间,表、中层以NNE-ENE向为主,底层以偏W向为主.风应力是调查区表层与近表层余流形成的主导因素;西向沿岸流对调查区的余流也有较明显的作用;径流对调查区的S1站有一定的影响,但对S2站影响很小;潮致余流对调查区的余流贡献较小.     

An analysis of horizontal dispersion due to the drift current with an Ekman layer

An analytical method for describing horizontal matter dispersion in shear currents is presented using a tensor expression from the point of view that matter dispersion due to the shear effect should be one of the principal mixing dilution processes. Although the behavior of horizontal dispersion is considerably more complicated than common longitudinal dispersion, the present study elucidates the vertical structure of dispersion and the dispersing process from the initial to the stationary stage, besides the usual depth-averaged dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage. As one of the typical applications of horizontal dispersion, dispersion due to the pure drift current with an Ekman layer is examined theoretically using the present method. This examination reveals that the displacement of the centroid and the major axis of dispersion are twisted in the vertical direction more than the direction of the current vector forming the Ekman spiral; that the variance increases in proportion to the third power of the elapsed time; and that the dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage remains constant, independent of the depth normalized by an Ekman layer thickness. Such dependence of the dispersion coefficient in the steady current is shown to be different from that in the oscillatory current, which is inversely proportional to the depth normalized by a Stokes layer thickness. This is considered to be induced by the difference of the vertical profiles of the first order moment in both currents, that is, the shear region of the first order moment is restricted around the floor by the alternation of the current shear in the oscillatory current while it is diffused in the whole depth in the steady current.     

Prognostic numerical analysis of currents in the black sea with high horizontal resolution

We present the results of numerical prognostic experiments performed with a resolution of 1.64 km in the horizontal coordinates. Unlike the calculations performed with coarser resolution, we reveal the following dynamic specific features: The Rim Current is traced down to 400 m as a continuous jet directed along the continental slope. Mesoscale anticyclonic eddies are regularly formed along the east part of the Anatolian coast and affect the formation of the Batumi anticyclone. The Sevastopol, Sinop, Kizilirmak, and Caucasian anticyclonic eddies are quasiperiodic. A region of cyclonic rotation of waters is formed between the newly formed Sevastopol anticyclone and the previous eddy.     

The observation of tidal patterns, currents, and bathymetry with SLAR imagery of the sea

Work done until 1978 on the visualization of currents, bathymetry, internal waves, etc., in SLAR imagery of the sea is reported. It did not receive much attention until the SEASAT SAR imagery showed these effects on a global scale. Although we know, qualitatively, how these images come about we are yet far from knowing how to extract more quantitative data from them on depth, current speed, etc. Much research effort is still needed here and for this work a simple real-aperture SLAR can be a very useful tool.     

Preliminary analysis of the applicability of adiabatic modes to inverting synthetic acoustic data in shallow water over a sloping sea floor

The May 2001 Geoacoustic Inversion Techniques Workshop provided synthetic transmission loss (TL) data for four cases with range-dependent shallow-water all-liquid environments. In two of these cases ("0" and "1"), the sea floor has constant slope and the geoacoustic model (GAM) is range independent. Cost functions have been computed using a new adiabatic-mode TL algorithm (which uses an exact velocity boundary condition at the sloping sea floor), as one parameter in the GAM is varied. Two frequencies (80 and 220 Hz) were selected. In case 0, the sea-floor slope is 0.0183 and the GAM comprises an inhomogeneous layer over a basement. The sea-floor sound-speed was selected as the variable parameter. The resulting cost minima at 80 and 220 Hz are displaced from the actual sound speed by 2.3 and 3.4 m/s, respectively. In case 1, the sea-floor slope is 0.012 and the GAM comprises one homogenous layer, five inhomogeneous layers, and a basement. The selected parameter was the sound-speed in the homogeneous layer. The corresponding cost minima are displaced by -1.2 and +1.1 m/s. The relative values of these four errors indicate that mode coupling increases with sea-floor slope and that there may be a dependence on frequency at the greater slope.     

Waves at the sea surface generated by a flow over an underwater obstacle

We study wave perturbations appearing at the surface of a two-layer fluid flowing around an underwater obstacle in the lower layer of the fluid. The obstacle is modeled as a point source. A class of asymptotic solutions was obtained that demonstrate that realistic conditions of the open sea and the given parameters of the source in the neighborhood of the source of hydrodynamic perturbations allow for the formation of two types of surface waves. The waves of the first type only slightly depend on the stratification, and, in the conditions of the real sea, they are almost not observed. The characteristics of the second type of waves were repeatedly recorded in field experiments during radar and optical monitoring of the sea surface.     

Tide-induced vertical circulation in a bay with homogeneous water: Theory and experiment

The structure of the tidal residual current due to vertical viscosity is investigated both theoretically and experimentally. It is found that the interaction between the vertical component of the oscillatory current and vorticity,wT ₁ T ₁, induces a strong residual constituent outside the boundary layer and forms a circulation which is quite similar to gravitational circulation and that the vertical profile of the oscillatory current not only affects the magnitude of the residual constituent but also decides the direction of the circulation. In the hydraulic experiment, the residual constituent is larger than the theoretical prediction and a phase difference in the oscillatory constituent between the upper and lower layer is observed. The amplitude difference is caused by the strong nonlinear effect of the residual constituent and the phase difference is caused by the interaction between the residual current and the basic oscillatory current. The principal generating force of the residual constituent outside the boundary layer,wT ₁ T ₁, is observed in a bay where the tide is nearly a standing wave.