Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.     

Hilbert Transform Applied to Separation of Waves

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improvement of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient.The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phasedifference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda‘s method and satisfactory results are obtained.     

Bragg Reflection of Waves by Different Shapes of Artificial Bars

Experiments are performed in a wave flume to demonstrate the Bragg reflection of linear gravity waves by artificial bars. Three different artificial bars with rectangular, triangular and rectified cosinoidal shapes are placed discretely on the seabed for measurement of the Bragg reflection. A series of experimental conditions including the number of bars, the pe-riodic bar spacing, the water depth and various wave conditions are tested. Key parameters influencing the Bragg resonances are investigated. The experimental data are compared with the values from both theoretical and numerical models. Some key parameters have proved to be effective in describing the primary resonances. Predictive equations of the charac-teristics for the Bragg reflection are proposed in this paper.     

Reflection of Oblique Incident Waves by Breakwaters with Partially-Perforated Wall

The reflection of oblique incident waves from breakwaters with a partially-perforated front wall is investigated. The fluid domain is divided into two sub-domains and the eigenfunction expansion method is applied to expand velocity poten-tials in each domain. In the eigen-expansion of the velocity potential, evanescent waves are included. Numerical results of the present model are compared with experimental data. The effect of porosity, the relative chamber width, the relative water depth in the wave absorbing chamber and the water depth in front of the structure are discussed.     

广义延拓插值在卫星精密星历插值中的应用

在GPS单点定位和相对定位中都需要不断计算卫星的坐标。IGS提供的精密星历为15min间隔,要得到更小间隔的数据,就要进行插值。利用广义延拓插值进行GPS精密星历插值,探讨插值精度与三个参数的关系,并与Lagrange多项式插值和三角插值结果进行比较。结果表明,广义延拓插值法具有较高的精度,完全适用于精密星历的插值。     

Long Waves Induced by Wave Groups over a Trench

The second order long waves of the mean water free surface displacement induced by the wave groups over a trench are discussed in this paper. The incident wave groups are supposed to be superposed by 2 linear waves with different amplitudes, phases and slightly different frequencies. Some of the theoretical formulas and numerical results are presented.     

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.     

Analytical Study on Transmission and Reflection of Non-Linear Shallow Water Waves

The analytical study is made by using the method of matched asymptotic expansions on the transmission and reflection of solitary waves and cnoidal waves on two-dimensional floating bodies. The solutions give explicitly the variation pattern of the transmitted waves and the characteristics of the reflected waves, including the wave profile, amplitude, phase shift and evolution. The effects of the gap between the body and the sea bottom on the transmission and reflection of those waves are also discussed.     

The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed

This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented.     

遥感影像融合中的四元数插值方法研究

利用四元数来整体描述多光谱遥感影像,采用四元数插值算法对影像进行重采样,并通过对重采样后的影像进行融合处理来分析比较遥感影像的四元数插值和现有插值方法的效果和区别。实验验证了四元数插值算法的可行性和优越性,为遥感影像的重采样提供了一条新的技术途径。     

分离入射波与反射波的解析方法

提出了一种新的分离入射波和反射波的解析方法（AM）。利用两点处的 波高信息，运用Hilbert变换得到波浪信号在复域内的解析表达式，不需要计算合成波高和相位差即可实现信号的分离。根据分离结果，可以精确地估计入射波与反射波的幅值以及反射系数等参数，能够获得入射波与反射波之间的相位信息，并且可方便地用于不规则波的分离。文中通过数值模拟与物理模型实验对AM法进行了检验，所得的结果与实际值非常吻合。     

Experimental Study of Hydrodynamic Loading on Submarine Composite Pipelines under the Action of Waves and Current

- This article is aimed at the experimental study of the hydrodynamic loading induced by waves and current acting on the JZ 20-2 submarine composite pipelines. The corresponding hydrodynamic coefficients obtained in this experimental study can be applied to engineering projects.     

基于纵横波保幅分离的粘弹介质弹性波正演模拟

地下介质往往表现为粘弹特性,研究基于粘弹假设的数值模拟方法对于正确认识地震波的传播规律和提高地震勘探精度具有重要意义。波动方程正演过程中纵横波的保幅解耦是研究准确的粘弹介质中地震波传播机理的前提,基于散度和旋度算子的纵横波解耦方法会使波场的相位和振幅产生畸变,且解耦后的波场在极性反转位置上无法与分离前混合波场各分量对应。在散度和旋度算子上再做一次梯度和旋度运算的波场分离方法虽然能够克服上述缺陷,但存在保幅性差等问题。本文从粘弹介质中的一阶速度-应力方程出发,推导了矢量纵横波分离的波数域表达式,结合有限差分思路给出了其在空间域的求解方法。本文方法利用纵横波的传播速度对现有的矢量波场分离方法进行振幅校正,并将校正结果分别作为纵波与横波对时间的二阶偏导,实现了粘弹介质中的纵横波分离。模型试算结果表明,本文方法能够克服现有方法的缺陷,获得更具保幅性的波场分离结果。     

堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数试验研究

结合物理模型试验,分析斜坡坡度、波陡、相对水深、护面类型和破波参数等因素对堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数的影响规律。将常用的Van der Meer公式,Seelig公式,Postma公式和Davison公式计算值和实测值进行比较,并结合试验数据,基于有效波高和平均周期定义的Iribarren数,得出堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数经验公式。结果表明,该公式能较好地计算不规则波作用下块石和扭王块体护面堆石防波堤波浪反射系数。     

顾及垂线偏差的重力大地水准面差距内插法

指出传统距离加权内插法的不足,推导了垂线偏差同大地水准面差距偏导数的转换公式,在此基础上利用间接平差模型得到了顾及垂线偏差的重力大地水准面差距内插法,改进了传统距离加权平均法。     

近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究

较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Nearshore）及其包含的物理过程（风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波－波相作用等），并利用该模式对影响杭州湾－长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究：模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线，并对相应时段的NCAR／NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供；利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件；模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好，在此基础上，研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响，初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。     

行星尺度阻塞波和天气尺度波相互作用的数值模拟

用数值方法研究了行星尺度阻塞波和天气尺度波之间的相互作用,得到在涡源强迫下,当不存在地形时,大尺度流场可发展成偶极型阻塞,瞬时流场分裂成南北对称的2支,总流场可以看到明显的多涡结构;加上双波地形后,大尺度流场发展成Ω型阻塞,瞬时流场同样分裂成2支,但北支要明显强于南支.而且通过一系列对比试验发现,适当的弱的基本西风气流是阻塞发生的有利条件.此外,讨论了初始阻塞和造波器（扰动源）位置的配置,以及造波器关闭时间的不同对阻塞强度和生命周期的可能影响.     

Reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core

The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient.     

of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core

The reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater with a rock-filled core is examined. The present mathematical model is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method. Numerical results of the present model are compared with the experimental data of different researchers. Numerical examples are given to examine the effect of rock fill on the reflection coefficient. The differences between regular and irregular waves are also investigated by means of theoretical and experimental results. It is found that the minimum reflection coefficient of irregular waves is larger than that of corresponding regular waves, but the contrary is the case for the maximum reflection coefficient.     

Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.