Nocdap results: On the relationship of extreme waves and currents for design of offshore structures

Simultaneous wind, wave, and current data during 21 storms spanning four winters at Tromsøflaket (230 m depth) were analysed to determine joint probabilities of occurrence. Waves were measured with a Waverider Buoy, winds with a recording anemometer onboard a vessel and currents at up to five depths with Aandera RCM-4 current meters. Measured currents were filtered to separate tidal currents from residual currents. In most of the statistical analyses, the actual current profiles were replaced with a simplified “equivalent” profile (constant above 50 m depth) whose magnitude was chosen to give the same drag load on a single pile as the actual profile when both profiles were combined with wave orbital velocities. The data suggest that the equivalent current is weakly correlated with the wave height. Within the range of the data analysed, an in-line equivalent residual current of 30 cm sec⁻¹ is adequate for design drag force calculations.The data presented here are used to illustrate a procedure for data analysis and are not suitable for use as design criteria.     

Estimates of Energy Dissipation Rates in the Three-Dimensional Deep Ocean Internal Wave Field

Using the “Eikonal Approach” (Henyey et al., 1986), we estimate energy dissipation rates in the three-dimensional Garrett-Munk internal wave field. The total energy dissipation rate within the undisturbed GM internal wave field is found to be 4.34 × 10⁻⁹ W kg⁻¹. This corresponds to a diapycnal diffusivity of about 0.3 × 10⁻⁴ m²s⁻¹, which is less than the value 10⁻⁴ m²s⁻¹ required to sustain the global ocean overturning circulation. Only when the high vertical wavenumber, near-inertial current shear is enhanced can diapycnal diffusivity reach ∼10⁻⁴ m²s⁻¹. It follows that the energy supplied at low vertical wavenumbers and low frequencies is efficiently transferred to high vertical wavenumbers and near-inertial frequencies in the mixing hotspots in the real ocean.     

Bottom currents in Nankai Trough and Sagami Trough

Mean flows and velocity fluctuations are described from direct measurements of bottom currents made at three stations across Nankai Trough and two stations in Sagami Trough from May 1982 to May 1984. Aanderaa current meters were moored 7 m above the bottom. The observed mean flows indicate a counter-clockwise circulation in Nankai Trough with current speeds of 0.9–2.1 cm sec^–1. The mean flows were larger on the slopes than on the flat bottom of the trough. The mean flows observed in Sagami Trough show an inflow into Sagami Bay which is considered to be a part of the Oyashio undercurrent from the north that flows along the eastern coast of Honshu. Velocity fluctuations with periods greater than 100 hr were less energetic in the troughs than those at a station west of Hachijo-jima Island. A highly energetic fluctuation with a period of 66.7 hr was observed on the northern slope of Sagami Trough in the velocity component parallel to the trough axis. A maximum current speed of 49 cm sec^–1 was observed in Sagami Trough.This study was sponsored by the Ministry of Education, Science and Culture, Japan.     

A new view of near-shore dynamics based on observations from HF Radar

Since 1984 the OSCR HF Radar system has been used in over 50 deployments to measure near-shore surface currents for both scientific and engineering applications. The enhanced scope, resolution and accuracy of these measurements have yielded new insights into the tidal, wind and density driven dynamics of the near-shore zone.Tidal current ellipses obtained from these radar measurements have been shown to be in good aggrement with values calculated by numerical models both for the predominant constituents and also for higher harmonics. Coherent patterns of wind-forced currents ahve been determined with strong evidence of a “slab-like” surface response. In one deployment, with offshore winds blowing over relatively deep water, this “slab” rotated clockwise at near-inertial frequency. Strong (up to 20cm s⁻¹), persistent surface residual currents are commonly observed, these are almost certainly generated by (small) horizontal density gradients. These observed surface residuals provide ideal data for rigorous testing of 3-D numerical models.With a threatened rise in sea level, HF Radar is well-suited for observing the expected changes in the dynamics of near-shore regions. Continuing development of these radar systems offers exciting prospects of remote sensing of both surface waves and currents. Future applications may extend beyond the near-shore region to measurements along the shelf-edge, in oceanic gyres and for “beach-processes”.     

Mesoscale current fluctuations observed in the deep western North Pacific

A set of simultaneous long-term, deep current measurements was taken using a moored array in the mid-ocean of the western North Pacific near 30°N, 146°E. Five current meters at three stations provided good quality records over 84 days. Low-frequency current fluctuations with meridional dominance are clearly seen in the deep layer records. They are consistent with signals of a mesoscale current fluctuation which has a period of about 100 days, an east-west wave length of about 200 km, and a westward phase propagation with a speed of about 2 cm sec^–1. Bottom intensification of the east component of low-frequency current fluctuations is also observed.     

Chromium(VI) distributions in the Arctic and the Atlantic Oceans and a reassessment of the oceanic Cr cycle

Chromium(VI) concentrations ranging between 3.0 and 6.1 nmol l⁻¹ and 3.1 and 7.3 nmol l⁻¹ were found in the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans, respectively. The vertical profiles show modest depletion of chromium(VI) in surface waters, but poor overall correlations between Cr(VI) and nutrient profiles. Given that Cr(VI) is the dominant oxidation state of chromium in open-ocean waters, these data are combined with literature data to reassess the distribution of Cr in oceanic waters. It is concluded that while Cr shows some characteristics of both “recycled” and “accumulated” vertical profiles, it does not fall clearly within either group.     

Measurements of the water-following capability of holey-sock and TRISTAR drifters

Since 1985, a number of measurements have been made in deep water to determine the water-following characteristics of mixed layer drifters with both holey-sock and TRISTAR drogues at 15 m depth. The measurements were done by attaching two neutrally buoyant vector measuring current meters (VMCMs) to the top and the bottom of the drogues and deploying the drifters in different wind and upper ocean shear conditions for periods of 2–4 h. The average velocity of the VMCM records was taken to be a quantitative measure of the slip of the drogue through the water, observed to be 0.5-3.5 cm s⁻¹. The most important hydrodynamic design parameter which influenced the slip of the drogue was the ratio of the drag area of the drogue to the sum of the drag areas of the tether and surface floats: the drag area ratio R. The most important environmental parameters which affected the slip were the wind and the measured velocity difference across the vertical extent of the drogue. A model of the vector slip as a function of R, vector wind and velocity difference across the drogue was developed and a least squares fit accounts for 85% of the variance of the slip measurements. These measurements indicated that to reduce the wind produced slip below 1 cm s⁻¹ in 10 m s⁻¹ wind speed, R > 40. Conversely, if the daily average wind is known to 5 m s⁻¹ accuracy, the displacement of the R = 40 drifter can be corrected to an accuracy of 0.5 km day⁻¹.     

Primary production and plankton stocks in the Pacific Ocean and their seasonal variation according to remote sensing and field observations

Data collected from 20 years of observations by the P. P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology (about 250 comprehensive ecosystem stations) are summarized to evaluate the primary production and biomass of the principal groups of plankton in the Pacific Ocean. The stations were classified into geographical regions according to satellite determined criteria. The areas of these regions were evaluated according to CZCS data from 1978 to 1986. The total value of primary production was evaluated as 26·9 Gt C year⁻¹. Taking the “bottle effect” correction into account, this value may be as high as 45.6 Gt C year⁻¹. Total biomass values of phytoplankton (134 Mt C), bacteria (86 Mt C), protozoa (26 Mt C) and mesoplankton (184 Mt C) were also calculated. Seasonal variabilities of all these values were remarkably insignificant.     

Geochemistry of suspended matter from the Baltic Sea 2. Results of bulk trace metal analysis by AAS

In 1984, on a transect covering the whole Baltic Sea and parts of the adjacent North Sea, 160 water samples were taken and analysed for their concentrations of particulate and dissolved metals. In addition, the suspended materials were investigated for their elemental bulk composition.The particulate fractions represented from about 5% (Cd, Cu and Ni) to 50% (Fe and Pb) of the total (particulate plus dissolved) concentrations. For some elements (Ba, Cd, Cu, Pb and Zn), the particulate matter from the surface microlayer was enriched with respect to those suspended materials taken from 0.2 m depth. This could reflect the atmospheric input of metal-rich aerosols. In anoxic deep waters, maximum contents of Zn (6400 μg g⁻¹), Cu (1330 μg g⁻¹) and Cd (12 μg g⁻¹) were observed in the particulate matter, indicating sulphidic forms. On the other hand, under oxic conditions the distribution coefficients (K_d) decreased with the water depth (Cd, Fe and Pb).Relative to global background levels, the particulate matter contained metal “excesses” amounting to more than 90% of the total contents (Cd, Mn, Pb and Zn). Automated electron probe X-ray microanalysis (EPXMA) revealed that the elemental composition of sediments is mainly governed by post-depositional processes of early diagenesis and is only weakly related to the composition of suspended matter in the overlying water body. For instance, in relation to surface mud sediments of the central Baltic net-sedimentation basins, Zn, Cd, Cu and Mn had 30–100% higher levels in the suspended materials. The general pattern of metal contents of particulate matter taken from 10 m depth on a transect between the Bothnian Bay and the North Sea were—possibly as a result of anthropogenic inputs—rather similar for Pb, Zn and Cu. For Fe and Mn, the distribution patterns along the transect were probably governed by the natural loading characteristics and by the biogeochemistry of those elements.     

Hydrothermal plumes in the eastern Manus Basin, Bismarck Sea: CH4, Mn, Al and pH anomalies

We present evidence for strong hydrothermal activity in the eastern Manus Basin (depth: 1700–2100 m), the existence of large scale triple-layered buoyant plumes at depths of 1100 m (“shallow plume”), 1700 m (“deep plume”), and 1400 m (“middle plume” with less extent than the other two plumes) that were revealed from water column anomalies of CH₄, Mn, Al and pH observed in November to December 1990. Judging from the horizontal distribution of these parameters, the deep plume seems to originate from two distinct hydrothermal sites (eastern and western sites) in the research area, the eastern site being visually ascertained with deep-tow observations at the same time. The CH₄/Mn ratio (mol mol⁻¹) of the deep plume (0.02–0.05) is the lowest yet observed in hydrothermal plumes. The order of magnitude difference of CH₄/Mn ratios between the shallow plume and the deep plume suggests that different kinds of fluid-rock interaction occurred to make the hydrothermal end members for the deep and shallow plumes. The shallow plume, which had an areal extent of more than 50 km, may be an episodic “megaplume”, because it was not recognized in the previous CH₄ profiles in 1986, and because it has a similar CH₄/Mn ratio as the megaplume observed in the North Fiji Basin. We found that the eastern deep plume is characterized by enormously high aluminium concentrations (0.6– 1.5 μmol kg⁻¹), pH anomalies (0.1) and high Al/Mn ratios (10–17). The endmember fluid for the eastern deep plume may have an unusually low pH value to dissolve this much aluminum during fluid-rock interaction, or this plume may originate from an eruption-influenced fluid.     

Mercury levels in the dissolved and particulate fractions of the Tyrrhenian sea

Determination of the actual mercury concentration in Mediterranean basin seawater was achieved by means of an instrument based on fluorescence spectrometry developed for this purpose, during a field study aboard the oceanographic ship “L.F. Marsili”, between August 1980 and May 1982.Dissolved ·total’ and ·reactive’ mercury and mercury associated with particulate matter were determined on surface and subsurface waters in the Tyrrhenian Sea from La Spezia to Sicily.Concentrations in the range 1.4–19.7 ng l⁻¹ for ·total dissolved mercury’, 0.5–5.9 ng l⁻¹ for ·reactive dissolved mercury’ and 0.3–8.0 ng l⁻¹ for mercury associated with the particulate matter, were measured on surface and subsurface waters in the Tyrrhenian Sea from La Spezia to Sicily.Even if the mean value of the total mercury concentration (dissolved + particulate) was found to be about twice as high as those observed for the oceans, the difference does not seem to be as high as predicted by the model proposed by Buffoni and co-workers to explain the large difference of mercury levels between tunas caught, respectively, in the Mediterranean and in the Oceans.     

The structure of the nearshore branch of the Tsushima current on the shelf off the San'in coast in summer

Current measurements were made at five moored stations over the continental shelf off the San'in coast of the Japan Sea for a month in the summer of 1980 to study the vertical structure of the nearshore branch of the Tsushima Current. The time-mean current for the observational period is 20 to 25 cm sec^–1 eastward near the surface and about 10 cm sec^–1 westward near the sea bottom except at the shallowest station. The time-mean current,i.e. the nearshore branch of the Tsushima Current is mainly due to the baroclinic modes. The currents are less variable in the first half of the observational period, but fluctuate with a several-day period in the latter half. The obtained current data were decomposed into barotropic and baroclinic modes to investigate the detailed characteristics of the fluctuations. In the latter half, the current fluctuations of the two modes with about a 5-day period are well correlated with each other, as the baroclinic mode lagging behind the barotropic mode by 12 hr. The barotropic current fluctuation is correlated to the sea level, with the former leading the latter by about 12 hr. The baroclinic current is correlated to the temperature at the subsurface layer with a shorter time lag.     

Coastal upwelling and downwelling events in the Seto Inland Sea

Prominent coastal upwelling and downwelling events due to Ekman transport were observed during the period from 14 to 18 August 1983 along the Misaki Peninsula in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan. The coastline of the Misaki Peninsula is aligned approximately in an ENE-WSW direction. When an ENE wind continued blowing for about two days, the warm water in the upper layer was pushed offshore and cold water in the lower layer upwelled along the peninsula. The estimated upwelling speed 3 m below the sea surface was 0.032 cm sec^–1. On the other hand, when a WSW wind continued blowing for about two days the warm water in the upper layer sank into the lower layer along the peninsula. The estimated downwelling speed 3 m below the sea surface was 0.080 cm sec^–1. The time lag between the variations of the alongshore wind and offshore current was about 0.5 days.     

Circulation and mixing of Mediterranean water west of the Iberian Peninsula

The spreading of water of Mediterranean origin west of the Iberian Peninsula was studied with hydrographic data from several recent cruises and current measurements from the BORD-EST programme. The vertical breakdown of the “Mediterranean salt” content reveals the dominant contribution of the so-called lower core of the outflow (60%), and the significant fraction (22%) brought downward to levels below 1500 m by diffusion. Intense salinity maxima in the upper core (18%) are only encountered south of 38°N in the vein flowing northward along the continental slope, and at a few stations in the deep ocean. Apart from the coastally trapped vein, other preferred paths of the water mass are revealed by the horizontal distributions of salinity maximum and Mediterranean Water percentage. One is southward, west of the Gorringe Bank, and two northwestward ones lie around 40°N and west of the Galicia Bank. Year-long velocity measurements in the Tagus Basin show westward mean values of 7 × 10⁻² m s⁻¹ at 1000 m associated with a very intense mesoscale variability. This variability is related to the pronounced dynamical signature of the outflow which favours instability in any branch having detached from the slope current. From a mixing point of view, the strong interleaving activity occurring near Cape St-Vincent is illustrated, but its contribution to the downstream salinity decrease in the coastally trapped vein is weak. Current and meddy detachment play the dominant role, with a scaling estimate of their associated lateral diffusivity of order 500 m² s⁻¹. The statistical distribution of the density ratio parameter, which governs double-diffusion at the base of the Mediterranean Water, was found to be very tight around R_π = 1.3 in the temperature range of 5°C< φ < 8°C. North of 40°N, the presence of a fraction of Labrador Sea Water in the underlying water is shown to decrease that parameter and should favour the formation of salt fingers.     

Hydrological heterogeneity, nutrient dynamics and water quality of a non-tidal lentic ecosystem (Lesina Lagoon, Italy)

The dynamics of the Lesina coastal lagoon (Italy) in terms of nutrients, phytoplankton and chemical–physical parameters were evaluated, together with their functional relationships with freshwater inputs, in order to identify ecosystem responses to changes in driving forces in a Mediterranean non-tidal lentic environment. Lesina Lagoon is a shallow coastal environment characterised by limited exchange with coastal waters, which favours enrichment of nutrients and organic matter and benthic fluxes within the system. Lagoon–sea exchanges are influenced by human management. There is a steep salinity gradient from East to West. High nitrogen and silica values were found close to freshwater inputs, indicating wastewater discharges and agricultural runoff, especially in winter. Dissolved oxygen was well below saturation (65%) near sewage and runoff inputs in the western part of the lagoon during summer. Classification in accordance with EEA (2001) guidelines suggests the system is of “poor” or “bad” quality in terms of nitrogen concentrations in the eastern zone during the winter rainy period. In terms of phosphate concentrations, the majority of the stations fall into the “good” category, with only two stations (close to the sewage and runoff inputs) classed as “bad”. In both cases, the raw nitrogen levels make the lagoon a P-limited system, especially in the eastern part. There was wide space–time variability in chlorophyll a concentrations, which ranged from 0.25 to 56 μg l⁻¹. No relationships between chlorophyll a and nutrients were found, suggesting that autotrophic biomass may be controlled by a large number of internal and external forcing factors driving eutrophication processes. Water quality for this type of environment depends heavily on pressure from human activities but also on the management of sewage treatment plants, agricultural practices and the channels connecting the lagoon with the sea.     

The impact of groundwater discharges on mercury partitioning, speciation and bioavailability to mussels in a coastal zone

The Mussel Watch program conducted along the French coasts for the last 20 years indicates that the highest mercury concentrations in the soft tissue of the blue mussel (Mytilus edulis) occur in animals from the eastern part of Seine Bay on the south coast of the English Channel, the “Pays de Caux”. This region is characterized by the presence of intertidal and submarine groundwater discharges, and no particular mercury effluent has been reported in its vicinity. Two groundwater emergence systems in the karstic coastal zone of the Pays de Caux (Etretat and Yport with slow and fast water percolation pathways respectively) were seasonally sampled to study mercury distribution, partitioning and speciation in water. Samples were also collected in the freshwater–seawater mixing zones in order to compare mercury concentrations and speciation between these “subterranean” or “groundwater” estuaries and the adjacent macrotidal Seine estuary, characterized by a high turbidity zone (HTZ). The mercury concentrations in the soft tissue of mussels from the same areas were monitored at the same time.The means of the “dissolved” (< 0.45 μm) mercury concentrations (HgT_D) in the groundwater springs were 0.99 ± 0.15 ng l^− 1 (n = 18) and 0.44 ± 0.17 ng l^− 1 (n = 17) at Etretat and Yport respectively. High HgT_D concentrations were associated with strong runoff over short water pathways during storm periods, while low concentrations were associated with long groundwater pathways. Mean particulate mercury concentrations were 0.22 ± 0.05 ng mg^− 1 (n = 16) and 0.16 ± 0.10 ng mg^− 1 (n = 17) at Etretat and Yport respectively, and decreased with increasing particle concentration probably as a result of dilution by particles from soil erosion. Groundwater mercury speciation was characterized by high reactive-to-total mercury ratios in the dissolved phase (HgR_D/HgT_D: 44–95%), and very low total monomethylmercury concentrations (MMHg < 8 pg l^− 1). The HgT_D distributions in the Yport and Etretat mixing zones were similar (overall mean concentration of 0.73 ± 0.21 ng l^− 1, n = 43), but higher than those measured in the adjacent industrialized Seine estuary (mean: 0.31 ± 0.11 ng l^− 1, n = 67). In the coastal waters along the Pays de Caux dissolved monomethylmercury (MMHg_D) concentrations varied from 9.5 to 13.5 pg l^− 1 (2 to 8% of the HgT_D). Comparable levels were measured in the Seine estuary (range: 12.2– 21.1 pg l⁻¹; 6–12% of the HgT_D). These groundwater karstic estuaries seem to be mostly characterized by the higher HgT_D and HgR_D concentrations than in the adjacent HTZ Seine estuary. While the HTZ of the Seine estuary acts as a dissolved mercury removal system, the low turbid mixing zone of the Pays de Caux receives the dissolved mercury inputs from the groundwater seepage with an apparent Hg transfer from the particulate phase to the “dissolved” phase (< 0.45 μm). In parallel, the soft tissue of mussels collected near the groundwater discharges, at Etretat and Yport, exhibited significantly higher values than those found in the mussel from the mouth of the Seine estuary. We observe that this difference mimics the differences found in the mercury distribution in the water, and argue that the dissolved phase of the groundwater estuaries and coastal particles are significant sources of bioavailable mercury for mussels.     

琼州海峡冬末春初潮余流场特征

1995年2月26日至3月6日,在琼州海峡的新海一四塘断面上,大小潮期间进行15条船同步测流.该断面上涨潮流速普遍大于落潮流速,实测最大涨潮流速为172cm/s,最大落潮流速为142cm/s;大潮期间北部6个站全层平均余流速度为18.4cm/s.海峡中间3个站0～20m层平均流速为18.3cm/s,南部6个站平均余流速度为10.2m/s.中间和北部诸站余流方向指向W一S范围,南部6个站因受地形影响,流向指向NE.用数值计算方法,再现了大小潮期间琼州海峡整个潮流场.大潮期间,通过西断面(灯楼角──玉苞角)落潮流总通量为4.73×1010m3,涨潮流总通量为4.29×1010m3;通过东断面(东营──龙塘镇)落潮流总通量为5.22×1010m3,涨潮流总通量为4.90×1010m3,其净通量,西、东断面分别为0.43×1010和0.32×1010m3,其方向指向西.     

Effect of vertical viscosity and diffusivity on tropical ocean circulation

Response of the tropical ocean to a uniform zonal wind is studied numerically and analytically. In addition to the Equatorial Undercurrent and surface westward flows on both sides of the equator, an eastward flow at the pycnocline depth is formed at several degrees latitude in both hemispheres. This subsurface eastward flow first appears in the eastern part of the ocean and extends to the west. Then it gradually decreases in speed, and at a steady state the speed is of the order of 1cm sec^–1. The spatial distribution of this subsurface flow is similar to the Subsurface Countercurrent, but the speed is one order smaller than that observed. The obtained thermostad is obscure compared with that observed. Whole of the time evolution produced by a numerical model can be accounted for by linear wave dynamics in a multi-layer model including vertical diffusion and friction. Although diffusion and friction are essential to maintain this subsurface flow, changes in the values of coefficients for vertical viscosity and diffusivity and also in initial density stratification lead only to a minor change in the speed of the subsurface eastward flow. It is concluded that a subsurface eastward flow with speed exceeding 10 cm sec^–1 accompanied by a distinctive thermostad structure cannot be explained by linear wave dynamics including vertical dissipation.     

Recent sediments, sediment accumulation and carbon burial at Goban Spur, N.W. European Continental Margin (47–50°N)

To quantify recent sediment accumulation, carbon fluxes and cycling, three N.W. European Continental Margin transects on Goban Spur and Meriadzek Terrace were extensively studied by repeated box- and multicore sampling of bottom sediments. The recent sediment distribution and characteristics appear directly related to the near-bed hydrodynamic regime on the margin, which at the upper slope break on the Goban Spur results in along-slope and periodic off-slope directed transport of particles, possibly by entrainment of particles in a detached bottom or intermediate nepheloid layer. From the shelf to the abyssal plain the surface sediments on the Goban Spur change from terrigenous sandy shelf sediments into clayey silts. ²¹⁰Pb activity decreases exponentially down core, reaching a stable background value at 10 cm (shallower stations) to 5 cm (deeper stations) sediment depth. ²¹⁰Pb profiles of repeatedly sampled stations indicate negligible annual variability of mixing and flux. The ²¹⁰Pb_xs flux to the sediment shows a decreasing trend with increasing water depth. Below about 2000 m the average ²¹⁰Pb_xs flux is about 0.3 dpm cm⁻² y⁻¹, a third of the fluxes measured on the shelf and upper slope stations. Sediment mixing rates (D_b) correlate with macro- and meiofaunal density changes and are within the normal oceanic ranges. Lower mixing rates on the lower slope likely reflect lower organic carbon fluxes there. Mass accumulation rates on Meriadzek Terrace are at maximum 80 g m⁻² y⁻¹, almost twice as high as at Goban Spur stations of comparable depth. A minimum accumulation rate of 16.6 g m⁻² y⁻¹ is found at the Goban Spur upper slope break. Organic carbon burial rates are low compared to other margins and range from a lowest value of 0.05 g m⁻² y⁻¹ at the upper slope break to 0.11 g m⁻² y⁻¹ downslope. A maximum organic carbon burial rate of 0.41 g m⁻² y⁻¹ is found on Meriadzek Terrace. Carbonate burial rates increase along the northern transect from the shelf (13 g m⁻² y⁻¹) via a low (9.3 g m⁻² y⁻¹) on the upper slope break to the deep sea (30.7 g m⁻² y⁻¹). Carbonate burial is highest on Meriadzek Terrace (44.5 g m⁻² y⁻¹). The N.W. European Margin at Goban Spur and Meriadzek Terrace cannot be considered a major carbon depocenter.