山东荣成湾月湖地区的潟湖-潮汐汊道体系

泻湖－潮汐汊道体系为一复杂的反馈体系,其中任一参数的改变即可导致整个体系的复杂反映。以月湖为例探讨了泻湖地貌演化的过各,及人工作用泻湖各主要参数的变化规律;提出了月湖目前由于人工署堵特别是残余坝基对潮流的限制作用,致使Ｐ／Ａ值较高而饱满系数Ｋ值偏代,泻湖－潮汐汊道体系稳定性较差的问题。     

乌鲁木齐重力潮汐研究与震兆异常

利用Ｖｅｎｅｄｉｋｏｖ调和分析法分析了乌鲁木齐ＧＳ－１５－２１６重力仪１９９０～１９９３年的潮汐记录，得到了该地区的重力潮汐参量：δｏ１＝１．１５８２６±０．０００４９，Δｏ１＝０．１５±０．０２，δＭ２＝１．１６１０８±０．０００２２，ΔＭ２＝－０．３２±０．０１。主波Ｍ２和Ｏ１的结果与１９８０年中比协作时ＧＥＯ－０８４的观测结果一致，与Ｍｏｌｏｄｅｎｓｋｙ模型１值符合很好。不同时段得到的δ值和Δ值内符合精度高，表明乌鲁木齐地区重力场稳定，重力仪性能稳定，观测资料可用于检验地球模型、研究地球深部构造以及震源物理场。分析了和静东北两次５．２级地震前δＭ２值的短期前兆异常，确认从目前的重力潮汐观测中可以分辨出变化量大于１％的δ因子震兆异常．     

长江下游仪征河段汊道分流属性及航道滩槽演变机制

长江下游仪征河段处于枯季潮流界的上边界,揭示其汊道分流属性及滩槽联动演变机制,对河势控制工程及深水航道工程实践具有重要意义.本研究收集了1955—2021年水文泥沙及地形等资料,在汊道分流关系及调整成因上:世业洲右汊的分流属性为枯水倾向型汊道,即低流量时期分流比大于高流量时期;1959—2021年期间,世业洲右汊分流比经历了“稳定-下降-上升”的调整过程,上游河段滩槽格局调整及流域来沙减少引起的汊道间不均衡冲刷是分流关系调整的主因;流域流量过程调整、河道崩岸等综合影响引起1959—2017年期间世业洲右汊分流比为减小态势,航道工程实施起到了调控汊道关系的功能,世业洲右汊分流比为增加态势.在滩槽联动演变关系上:仪征河段进口段以展宽为主,世业洲左汊展宽程度大于右汊,左汊河床形态变化与进口段滩槽形态的一致性关系优于右汊,即上游进口段滩槽演变、流域来沙量减少等综合作用会加速了左汊发展;2015年南京以下12.5 m深水航道二期工程建设以来,工程区域淤积且洲体完整性增强,且深槽冲刷及河槽容积增大,表明航道工程已实现汊道分流关系及滩槽调控的功能.     

荆江沙市段分流比计算公式的改进及应用

分汊河段冲淤调整会引起汊道分流比的复杂变化.建立准确的分流比计算公式是研究分流比在不同水沙、地形边界条件下变化的基础.以长江上荆江分汊河段——沙市段为例,利用三峡水库蓄水后的实测资料对现有分流比计算式的适用性进行比较,通过引入综合反映两汊糙率、比降差异的因子,建立了较高精度的分流比计算式,在此基础上,分析了沙市分汊段分流比的变化特点.结果表明:(1)当无法准确反映两汊糙率、比降的差异时,枯水分流比计算误差较大,最大计算偏差达15%;(2)两汊平均水深之比与糙率、比降综合影响系数比高度相关,引入两汊平均水深之比,建立了最大计算偏差小于5%的分流比计算式;(3)三峡水库蓄水后沙市段汊道冲淤变化对枯水分流比的影响大于洪水分流比,对微弯分汊段分流比的影响大于顺直分汊段.     

关于壳厚度计算方法的修正

利用前苏联学者Ｐ．Ｍ．计算地壳厚度公式计算了兰州－天水－武都地区的布格重力异常，发现其结果与人工地震爆破得出的结果相差很大。造成差值大的原因可能是地壳界央边界效应的作用。为使计算结果尽量接近实际地壳厚度，所以要从计算地壳厚度公式中减去每一测点的效应值，依此法推算出任意点的地壳厚芳。     

关于地壳厚度计算方法的修正

利用前苏联学者（１９５８．）计算地壳厚度公式计算了兰州－天水－武都地区的布格重力异常．发现其结果与人工地震爆破得出的结果相差很大。造成差值大的原因可能是地壳界面边界效应的作用。为使计算结果尽量接近实际地壳厚度。所以要从计算地壳厚度公式中减去每一测点的效应值，依此法推算出任意点的地壳厚度。     

地震主应力方向的附加潮汐应力计算及其对发震断层的作用方式研究

通过对地震震源处沿主压应力P轴和主张应力T轴方向的附加潮汐应力分量的计算，在岩石力学莫尔－库化准则的基础上分析了附加潮汐应力对发震断层的作用方式。分析和计算表明，对发震断层有促滑作用的附加潮汐应力作用方式分增压型和减压型，增压型潮汐应力增大断层面上的正压力和剪应力，促使断层达到破裂滑动条件，减压型潮汐应力在一定条件下能降低断层面上的破裂滑动强度，同样能促使断层的运动。计算实例显示，大部分发震断层受到了附加潮汐应力的增压型或减压型促滑作用。     

超导重力仪GWR—TT70在武昌站的测量结果及其长期稳定性分析

介绍了超导重力仪ＧＷＲ－ＴＴ７０（１９８６－０１～１９９３－１２）在武昌站的观测数据及潮汐参数的计算结果,采用了非数字滤波调和分析法,计算出该仪器观测重力对气压的响应系数和长周期波潮汐参数,得到潮汐因子在８年中的稳定度为０．５％以内,最后分析了仪器漂移特征和武昌站重力长期变化的可能量级。     

甘06井水位潮汐参数的震前中期异常

本文介绍了甘０６井１９８６－１９９１年期间潮汐参数的计算结果，分析了该井水位和潮汐参数在共和、景泰地震前的中期异常显示。结果表明，该井下水位月均值及其差分值于１９８９年２月至１９９０年２月期间明显异常，自１９８９年起，该井的潮汐因子有明显增大趋势，测井所在区域的构造应力场也明显增强。     

潮汐韵律层的研究进展及其天文地质意义

潮汐沉积物记录着一系列的潮汐周期。本文简要介绍了几种主要的现代潮汐周期，在此基础上回顾了最近十余年来国外对周期性潮汐沉积物，特别是潮汐韵律层的研究进展，系统介绍了几种从古代沉积物中识别出来的潮汐周期，包括基本潮汐（半日潮、全日潮和混合潮），大－小潮周期以及一些长期周波动等。最后对潮汐韵律层在推测地史时期地－月系的演化历史中的意义作了评述。     

Hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport at tidal inlets of Salut Mengkabong Lagoon,Sabah,Malaysia

Salut-Mengabong Lagoon is located at the west coast of Sabah facing the South China Sea. At the bay side of the main inlet the lagoon splits into Salut and Mengabong Channels. Sediment dynamics at the inlets of the lagoon have recently received considerable attention. But any direct measurement of hydrodynamics and sediment flux are yet to be well documented. This study covers the field measurements of current velocity, water flux, suspended sediment concentration and sediment flux across the three transects (main inlet, Salut entrance and Mengkabong entrance) during typical spring and neap tidal cycles in southwest monsoon and northeast monsoon. Temporal variations and time-averaged values of measured parameters are discussed. The inlets of Salut-Mengkabong Lagoon are found to be ebb-dominated. The time-averaged velocities during spring tidal measurements are found to be higher in the main inlet followed by Mengkabong entrance and Salut entrance. Suspended sediment concentration and sediment fluxes are substantially higher in spring tidal cycles compared to the same in neap tidal cycles. During spring tidal cycles, ebb tidal sediment fluxes are higher than the flood tidal fluxes. The ebb dominated flux across the main inlet led to the large ebb shoal.     

Tidal inlet response to sediment infilling of the associated bay and possible implications of human activities: the Marennes-Oléron Bay and the Maumusson Inlet,France

Tidal inlet characteristics are controlled by wave energy, tidal range, tidal prism, sediment supply and direction and rates of sand delivered to the inlet. This paper deals with the relations between inlet and lagoon evolutions, linked by the tidal prism. Our study is focused on the Maumusson Inlet and the Marennes-Oléron Bay (first oyster farming area in Europe), located on the western coast of France. The tidal range (2–6 m) and wave climate (mean height: 1.5 m) place this tidal inlet system in the mixed energy (tide, waves), tide-dominated category. The availability of high-resolution bathymetric data since 1824 permits to characterise and quantify accurately morphological changes of both the inlet and the tidal bay. Since 1824, sediment filling of the tidal bay has led to a 20% decrease in its water volume, and a 35% reduction of the inlet throat section. Furthermore, the bay is subjected to a very high anthropic pressure, mainly related to oyster farming. Thus, both natural and human-related processes seem relevant to explain high sedimentation rates. Current measurements, hydrodynamic modelling and cross-sectional area of the inlet throat are used in order to quantify tidal prism changes since 1824. Both flood and ebb tidal prism decreased by 35%. Decrease in the Marennes-Oléron Bay water volume is inferred to be responsible for a part of tidal prism decrease at the inlet. Tidal prisms decrease may also be explained by an increase in frictional resistance to tidal wave propagation, due to a general shoaling and oyster farms in the bay. A conceptual model is proposed, taking into account natural and human-related sedimentation processes, and explaining tidal inlet response to tidal bay evolutions.     

Future evolution of a tidal inlet due to changes in wave climate, Sea level and lagoon morphology (Óbidos lagoon, Portugal)

Tidal inlets are extremely dynamic, as a result of an often delicate balance between the effects of tides, waves and other forcings. Since the morphology of these inlets can affect navigation, water quality and ecosystem dynamics, there is a clear need to anticipate their evolution in order to promote adequate management decisions. Over decadal time scales, the position and size of tidal inlets are expected to evolve with the conditions that affect them, for instance as a result of climate change. A process-based morphodynamic modeling system is validated and used to analyze the effects of sea level rise, an expected shift in the wave direction and the reduction of the upper lagoon surface area by sedimentation on a small tidal inlet (Óbidos lagoon, Portugal). A new approach to define yearly wave regimes is first developed, which includes a seasonal behavior, random inter-annual variability and the possibility to extrapolate trends. Once validated, this approach is used to produce yearly time series of wave spectra for the present and for the end of the 21st century, considering the local rotation trends computed using hindcast results for the past 57 years. Predictions of the mean sea level for 2100 are based on previous studies, while the bathymetry of the upper lagoon for the same year is obtained by extrapolation of past trends. Results show, and data confirm, that the Óbidos lagoon inlet has three stable configurations, largely determined by the inter-annual variations in the wave characteristics. Both sea level rise and the reduction of the lagoon surface area will promote the accretion of the inlet. In contrast, the predicted rotation of the wave regime, within foreseeable limits, will have a negligible impact on the inlet morphology.     

Subtidal flow and its variability at the entrance to a subtropical lagoon

Spatial and temporal variability of the subtidal exchange flow at West Pass, an inlet at the entrance to a subtropical lagoon (St. Andrew Bay, Florida), was studied using moored and towed current velocity profiles and hydrographic data. Towed and hydrographic measurements were captured over one diurnal tidal cycle to determine intratidal and spatial changes in flow. Hydrographic profiles over the tidal cycle showed that tidal straining modified density stratification asymmetrically, thus setting up the observed mean flow within the inlet. During the towed survey, the inlet's mean flow had a two-layer exchange structure that was moderately frictional and weakly influenced by Coriolis accelerations. Moored current profiles revealed the additional contribution to the dynamics from centrifugal accelerations. Along channel residual flows changed between unidirectional and exchange flow, depending on the forcing from the along-estuary wind stress and, to a lesser extent, the spring–neap tidal cycle. Increases in vertical shear in the along channel subtidal flow coincided with neap tides and rain pulses. Lateral subtidal flows showed the influence on the dynamics of centrifugal accelerations through a well-developed two-layer structure modulated in magnitude by the spring–neap tidal cycle.     

A modeling-based analysis of processes driving wave-dominated inlets

Among the different types of tidal inlets, wave-dominated inlets have been subjected to few quantitative studies, so that the physical processes controlling their dynamics are not fully understood. This study presents the application of a coastal area morphodynamic modeling system to a wave-dominated inlet (Óbidos Inlet, western coast of Portugal), in order to investigate the physical processes responsible for channel development during fair weather conditions and shoaling during periods of larger waves. The modeling system was able to reproduce reasonably well morphological changes at the Óbidos Inlet and subsequent tidal amplitude evolutions inside the lagoon over a period which includes 3 months of fair weather conditions, followed by 2 months representative of winter conditions. The inlet development during fair weather conditions was attributed to the strong ebb-dominance of the main channel without waves, enhanced by the combination of shallow channels and a meso-tidal range. The inlet infilling during the maritime winter was attributed to three main wave-induced mechanisms: (1) the onshore component of wave radiation stresse gradients, which is not fully compensated by the wave-induced setup in front of the inlet; (2) the acceleration and convergence of longshore transport toward the inlet, due to the presence of a strong lateral gradient in free surface elevation on both sides of the inlet, and, to a smaller extent, to wave refraction around the ebb-delta; and (3) the increase in mean water level inside the lagoon, which reduces tidal asymmetry and subsequent ebb-dominance.     

Long‐term morphological impacts of the opening of a new inlet on a multiple inlet system

In this study, the artificial opening of a new tidal inlet in an existing multiple inlet system is shown to significantly modify the adjacent nearshore and backbarrier morphology, as well as both updrift and downdrift shorelines. The study focuses on the dominant Faro‐Olhão and Armona inlets in the Ria Formosa barrier island system of southern Portugal. The equilibrium state and future evolution of the system are inferred using a range of morphological and hydrodynamic indicators, including the evolution of the inlet cross‐section, changes in tidal prism, and changes in the dimensions (length and area) of barrier islands. The results reveal how the morphology of an interconnected two‐inlet bay system and the adjacent coastlines has evolved following the artificial opening and stabilization of Faro‐Olhão inlet since 1929. A clear relationship between barrier island size, inlet cross‐section/width, and tidal prism is demonstrated. Decadal time‐scale changes in the tidal prism of the two interconnected inlets are shown to be the main mechanism responsible for morphological change, and have resulted in the remobilization of ebb‐tidal delta sediments deposited during previous hydraulic configurations. These changes, in turn, have contributed to a narrowing of Armona inlet and an increase in the size of Culatra Island. The work highlights the importance of ebb‐tidal deltas both as sand reservoirs and as conduits through which sand exchange between estuaries or lagoons and the open coast is regulated. It also shows the pivotal role of ebb‐tidal deltas in trapping longshore‐transported sediment and releasing it again during periods of increased wave activity. The findings have implications regarding the accurate assessment of the stability of multiple inlet systems. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Establishing the wave climate influence on the morphodynamics of a coastal lagoon inlet

The morphologic changes in estuaries and coastal lagoons are very complex and constitute a challenging task in coastal research. The bathymetric changes result from the combined action of tides, waves, rivers discharge and wind stress in the area of interest. Additionally, an accurate knowledge of the sediment transport is essential to achieve a good morphological characterization. This work establishes the influence of the wave climate on the morphodynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet by analysing the numerical results of the morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The numerical simulations considered a realistic coupled forcing of tidal currents and waves. The computed sediment fluxes and bathymetric changes are analysed and compared with the erosion and accretion trends obtained from the numerical simulations forced only by tidal currents, in order to establish the wave climate influence. The final bathymetry and the corresponding changes are compared with bathymetric data collected through surveys. It is concluded that: (a) the morphodynamics of the study area is dominated by the wave regime in the lagoon inlet and nearshore areas, while in the inner areas is tidally dominated; and (b) the inclusion of the wave regime forcing constitutes an improvement in order to accurately reproduce the local morphodynamics.     

Tide circulation patterns in a coastal lagoon under sea-level rise

This study evaluates the patterns and effects of relative sea-level rise on the tidal circulation of the basin of the Ria Formosa coastal lagoon using a process-based model that is solved on an unstructured mesh. To predict the changes in the lagoon tidal circulation in the year 2100, the model is forced by tides and a static sea level. The bathymetry and the basin geometry are updated in response to sea-level rise for three morphological response scenarios: no bed updating, barrier island rollover, and basin infilling. Model results indicate that sea-level rise (SLR) will change the baseline current velocity patterns inside the lagoon over the ~100-year study period, due to a strong reduction in the area of the intertidal basin. The basin infilling scenario is associated with the most important adjustments of the tidal circulation (i.e., increases in the flood velocities and delays in the ebb tide), together with an increase in the cumulative discharges of the tidal inlets. Under sea-level rise and in the basin infilling scenario, the salt marshes and tidal flats experience increases in the tidal range and current asymmetry. Basin infilling changes the sediment flushing capacity of the lagoon, leading to the attenuation of the flood dominance in the main inlet and the strengthening of the flood dominance in the two secondary inlets. The predictions resulting from these scenarios provide very useful information on the long-term evolution of similar coastal lagoons that experience varying degrees of SLR. This study highlights the need for research focusing on the quantification of the physical and socio-economic impacts of SLR on lagoon systems, thus enabling the development of effective adaptation strategies.     

The daily‐scale entrance dynamics of intermittently open/closed estuaries

Intermittently open/closed estuaries (IOCE) are a dynamic form of estuary characterised by periodic entrance closure to the ocean. Entrance closure is a function of the relative balance between on and offshore sediment transport with closures occurring during periods of low fluvial discharge whereby the estuary ebb‐tidal prism is reduced. Although the broad scale processes of entrance closure are becoming better understood, there remains limited knowledge on channel morphodynamics during an individual closure event. In this study, the entrance dynamics of three IOCE on the coast of Victoria, Australia, were monitored over a daily timescale following both artificial and natural openings. The influence of changing marine and fluvial conditions on the relative sedimentation rate within the entrance channel was examined. IOCE in Victoria showed two distinct modes of entrance closure: (a) lateral accretion, whereby the estuary gradually closes by longshore drift‐driven spit growth during low river flows; and (b) vertical accretion, where the channel rapidly aggrades under high (> 2 m), near‐normal waves. During storms, when fluvial discharge and wave heights simultaneously increase, large swells will not always close the mouth due to an increase in the ebb‐tidal prism. The estuary water depth and the maximum channel dimensions following opening were not proportional to the opening duration, with this being a function of the wave and fluvial conditions occurring following lagoon drainage. Based on the findings of this work, implementing a successful artificial entrance opening is dependent on reduced onshore sedimentation rates which occur when wave energy is low (< 2 m Hs) relative to river flow. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.