山东半岛北岸现代海滩层理及动态解释

海滩层理由冲、回流塑造的向海倾前滨楔状交错层理和冲越流形成的向陆倾后滨斜层理组成,二者构成假背斜构造.近年在烟台—莱州岸段海滩上开挖了10个垂岸探槽,揭示出这里海滩以向陆倾后滨层理为主,并且被暴风浪侵蚀面所斜切,该面向海的前滨层理只留下几十厘米的薄层,说明近几十年海岸持续遭受侵蚀,海滩的前滨层理被多次暴风浪切割掉;按暴...     

山东半岛海滩层理的研究

层理是沉积岩和沉积物中常见的沉积构造,通常以成分、结构、颜色、定向排列等性质在垂向上的变化而表现出来。因此,层理的特征和类型能反映沉积环境。 海滩层理的研究是从开发海滩砂矿开始的。近廿年来,油气勘探的发展证实,海滩相砂岩是孔隙度较高的油气储集层,为了辨别它,恢复古地理,往往总结现代海滩的形成机理,包括海滩层理。Thompson(1937)最早研究海滩层理,Emery(1950,1978)、Bagnold(1954),Clifton(1969,1971)和Inman(1971)等探讨过海滩层理的     

一个非牵引流堆积的重要场所——辫状河

经过对陆相盆地河湖相的大量研究发现,河湖相沉积不但大量发育牵引流沉积,而且也常常发育非牵引流沉积,尤其是辫状河。可以说,辫状河是大量非牵引流沉积的重要场所。目前发现的辫状河重力流沉积主要发育2种类型:一种以一反一正的递变层理;另一种以正递变层理旋回为主,它们具有泥石流的稀性和亚黏性的沉积特征;因而作为辫状河的识别标志,除冲刷面 板状交错层理外,各种泥石流类型的存在也是必不可少的一个重要标志,而且是一个很关键的标志。它不但可以指示辫状河的存在,而且也易与其他河流相相区分。     

海滩层理及其地质意义

海滩层理在滨海沙体中分布异常普遍,任何原生滨岸沙堤,水下沙堤和滨外沙堤中均可见到,因此它是识别滨外沙体和恢复古海岸线的重要标志.汤姆森(W.O.Thomson,1937)第一个系统地研究了海滩层理的特征、类型和形成过程,他的许多结论至今仍然是认识海滩层理的有用概念.近年来随着滨海沉积研究的深入和新技术的应用,海滩层理的研究又有新的进展.然而,由于滩滩层理较为复杂,仍然有许多问题需要进一步探讨.只有系统地揭示现代海滩层理的特征和组合,正确地分析它们的形成过程和机理,才能使之成为辨认古代海滩和古海岸线的重要工具.1965年我们在研究渤海湾贝壳堤时,曾对其内部层理的似背斜状的分布作过讨论,七十年代以来又相继在雷州半岛、山东半岛、舟山群岛、滦河三角洲地区、广西沿海对滨海沙体的天然剖面和人工探槽进行了观察,不少横切沙堤的剖面和探槽长达数十米至近百米,因而能够系统地观察海滩层理,并能进行不同岸段层理的对比.     

珠江口盆地白云凹陷珠江组深水牵引流沉积特征及其地质意义

研究深水牵引流对古大洋环流重建、陆坡位置判断及沉积矿产和能源资源勘探具有重要意义。珠江口盆地白云凹陷中新统珠江组取心段发育丰富的、与远洋低密度浊流和半远洋-远洋悬移沉积有明显区别的深水牵引流沉积,产物包括平行层理细砂岩、双泥岩纹层、双向交错层粉-细粒砂岩、波状层理和脉状层理灰质粉-细粒砂岩、波状层理和脉状层理抱球虫灰岩、透镜状沙纹层理粉砂岩等岩石相类型。珠江组深水牵引流沉积的发现具有重要地质意义,由其可以推测自渐新世末(23.8 Ma)白云凹陷陆架坡折带形成之后就开始存在沿着陆架坡折带活动的深水牵引流,并可能影响和改变沉积物的物质组成和区域分布,这将为南海北部古大洋洋流循环重建起到重要启示作用。     

大小潮作用对潮滩沉积物层理影响的数值模拟研究

潮滩垂向沉积韵律层的形成主要取决于周期性的潮汐条件,包括涨落潮、大小潮、季节性及更长时间尺度的潮汐特征,为探究大小潮周期对潮滩沉积物垂向层理形成机制的影响,应用一维潮流泥沙与底床分层数学模型,对周期性潮汐条件作用下潮滩垂向沉积韵律层形成机制进行了数值模拟研究。结果表明,大小潮的周期性是模型中沉积层理表现韵律性的主要原因之一,韵律层中单个层理结构对应于1个大小潮周期过程,层理结构由形成于小潮期间的泥质层及形成于大潮期间的砂质层组成,层理的厚度也呈旋回性变化,大潮时层理较厚而小潮时层理较薄。水体边界含沙量是影响潮汐层理结构的重要因子,边界含沙量中粉砂占比增大会使潮汐韵律层整体粗化且砂质层厚度增大,当边界含沙量整体显著增大时,潮滩上的垂向潮汐韵律层会更加完整且厚度明显增大。潮汐层理的形成与特征是多种因子共同作用的结果,后续需进一步探究包括波浪、风暴潮、潮滩生物等其他因子的作用。     

基于GPR图像的福建长乐海岸沙丘沉积构造与海岸环境演变

为了探讨福建长乐东部海岸环境演变,运用探地雷达(GPR)探测了研究区海岸沙丘的沉积构造,初步得出以下结论:(1)研究区海岸沙丘沉积构造主要由海滩沉积和海岸沙丘沉积构成,其中下伏沉积为海滩波浪作用形成的波状交错层理,上覆沉积为风成大角度倾斜的交错层理以及局部的水平层理;(2)上部发育的倾向向背的大角度风成交错层理,反映了研究区丰富的沙源、宽阔的海滩、植被扩张的进积海岸特点;(3)从沉积序列分析,研究区海岸地貌环境演变经历了早期的滨岸浅海到晚期的海岸沙丘带两个阶段,反映了海岸向东的进积过程中,外力作用由波浪作用为主演变为风沙沉积作用为主。     

我国北方首次发现海滩岩

海滩岩发育于热带和亚热带地区,由碳酸盐胶结而成,形成于海滩,故称海滩岩.我国西沙群岛、海南岛的海滩岩已有过不少研究和报导,但在我国北方尚未曾发现过.中国科学院海洋研究所白沙口调查队于1985年7月在山东省乳山县白沙口地区进行地貌第四纪地质调查时,在一个宽1000米以上的沙堤群上首次发现了这种海滩岩(见照片).该岩石露头离现代海边线约200米,厚度50厘米,倾向甫,倾角5°,与现代岸线的走向和坡度基本一致.该海滩岩由贝壳和砂砾石等胶结而成,层理明显,质地较脆,用锤头击之即碎散,镜下观察,胶结物为碳酸盐泥.下伏为黄色细砂,据岩性及其离岸距离推断,该海滩岩形成的历史不会太久,系全新世的产物,推测其形成时代不早于6000年.海滩岩在我国北方的首次发现,对研究我国北方全新世以来的气候和海面变化具有重要意义.     

淤泥质海岸潮间浅滩的形成和演变

潮间浅滩及海积平原上沉积物中的微层理、小层理和多元结构组成了一个完整的韵律体系。小层理是由不同类型的微层理组成，多元结构是由不同类型的小层理组成，它们在成因上也是密切关联的，在一定水文、泥沙条件下形成的微层互相迭加则构成小层，水文、泥沙条件的周期性变化则形成小层理。不同类型的层理在潮间浅滩上的分布及海岸的淤长，形成了多元结构。     

海岸沙丘的沉积构造及其形成原因的探讨——以秦皇岛市海岸风成沙丘为例

沙丘层理由高角度板状交错层理、楔状交错层理以及平行层理组成,由于风向、风速的变化,常见再作用面。     

Can sandy beach molluscs show an endogenously controlled circatidal migrating behaviour? Hints from a swash rig experiment

Many macrofaunal species inhabiting exposed sandy beaches are dependent on the swash for their nutrition and migration and are highly adapted to the harsh physical conditions of the swash. The most important physical factors that determine the distribution and behaviour of swash related fauna, next to the swash itself, are sediment grain size and beach slope. Crucial swash parameters are swash period and swash velocity. Studying the influence of these factors on the animals in the field is often very difficult and it is almost impossible to identify which factor causes what effect. Crucial knowledge about the direct role of the swash itself is lacking. Therefore, a device that generates swash waves on an artificial beach under laboratory conditions was designed: the swash rig. In the swash rig, full and independent control on sediment grain size, beach slope, swash velocity and swash period is present. This will allow us to do a variety of experiments on the influence of each of these factors, independently or combined, on swash fauna. In one such experiment, Olivella semistriata – a dominant surfing gastropod on Ecuadorian sandy beaches – was placed in the swash rig during rising and falling tide and subjected – under constant conditions – to an equal wave regime. During falling tide, and in absence of any tidal cue, almost all specimens moved downshore, as they would in the field; hardly any specimens moved upshore. During upcoming tide, however, there was noticeable upward migration in the swash rig, and half of the runs showed a net upward migration. Contrary to the common understanding that the behaviour of sandy beach molluscs is entirely environmentally driven, this experiment hints at the presence of an endogenous circatidal clock, which is used to direct the tidal migration of the species.     

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.     

Abundance,Tidal Movement,Population Structure and Burrowing Rate of Emerita analoga (Anomura,Hippidae) at a Dissipative and a Reflective Sandy Beach in South Central Chile

Abstract. To evaluate the effects of beach morphodynamics upon the abundance, tidal movement, population structure and burrowing rate of the crab Emerita analoga (Stimpson) (Anomura, Hippidae) we sampled two beaches in south central Chile (ca. 42° S), Mar Brava and Ahui with dissipative and reflective characteristics, res­pectively. The swash zone at the dissipative beach was 5 – 6 times wider than that of the reflective beach. A at the dissipative beach, upwash speeds were higher and the number of effluent line crossings were lower by more than an order of magnitude. To examine the tidal movement of E. analoga, we collected crabs from 5 to 6 tidal levels of each beach every 2 h across 12 h of the tidal cycle. The intertidal distribution of crabs differed between beaches; i. e., at the dissipative beach they were primarily located at the swash zone, while at the reflective beach they were mostly located at the low tide level and shallow subtidal. The change in position of crabs was pronounced across the tidal cycle at the dissipative beach (Mar Brava), with most of the animals remaining in the active swash zone. Body size data were used to construct size frequency distributions for each population. Crabs from the dissipative beach reached larger sizes than those at the reflective beach. Sediments were coarser at the latter versus the former beach. Crabs burrowed at similar rates in the sand from both beaches, a result which supports the idea that E. analoga is a “sediment generalist” capable of burrowing successfully in a wide range of sediment types. This characteristic is likely a key to the broad success of this species on the full range of beach morphodynamic types along the coasts of South and North America.     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.     

冲流带海滩高频振动探讨

在粤东汕尾寮嘴口岬间海滩冲流带设置两条剖面,利用2003年10月13日一个潮周期实测高频剖面数据(采样间隔为1min和6min),分析了海滩的高频振动特征。并结合同期实测碎波带水位波动,探讨了海滩高频振动的动力原因。分析表明,此海滩过程主要以堆积为主,并表现有显著周期的振动：其日内变化受潮汐控制,表现为涨潮堆积、落潮侵蚀;波能对海滩高频振动过程有着重要的影响。     

Non linear shallow water modelling of bore-driven swash: Description of the bottom boundary layer

The paper presents a simple approach to estimate the bottom shear stress in the swash zone by coupling the Non Linear Shallow Water Equations with the momentum integral equation for the bottom boundary layer. The approach allows not only the computation of the frictional dissipation term in the equations but also to have an insight into the flow structure in the water column during a swash event. The numerical results have been compared with a new set of experiments involving a single dam-break generated swash event. Three different grain sizes, ranging from coarse sand to gravel, have been tested in the laboratory.     

Population Abundances, Tidal Movement, Burrowing Ability and Oxygen Uptake of Emerita analoga (Stimpson) (Crustacea, Anomura) on a Sandy Beach of South-Central Chile

Abstract. Field sampling and other experiments were carried out during February 2001 to determine whether different morphodynamic characteristics occurring within an intermediate sandy beach of southern Chile (ca. 39°S) convey differences in population abundance, tidal movement, burrowing ability and oxygen uptake of the anomuran crab Emerita analoga (Stimpson, 1857). Crabs were collected along transects extended between the lowest swash levels and the retention zone above the effluent line of the south and north end of the beach. Burrowing times of nearly 70 crabs collected at each study site were measured in saturated sands collected from the lowest swash level of each site. Oxygen uptake of crabs was measured in incubation glass bottles. The intertidal zone of the north end of the beach was wider (56 m) and flatter (1/14) than that of the south end (45 m and 1/9, respectively). In general, the swash zone of the north end was significantly wider than the south end throughout the sampling period. The frequency of swashes and number of swash crossings above the effluent line, plus up‐wash speed, were usually higher at the steeper south end of the beach. The mean population abundance of E. analoga per linear metre of beach was significantly higher at the north end, whereas density per square metre was significantly higher at the south end. No differences were found in biomass figures. Although the highest abundance of crabs at the north end was usually observed at the lowest swash levels, similar population abundances occurred along all the tidal levels sampled at the south end. Burrowing times of crabs collected from both ends of the beach increased significantly with increasing carapace length and body mass. The mean burrowing time of crabs collected at the south end of the beach was shorter than that of those collected at the north end. Oxygen uptake of E. analoga was positively and exponentially correlated with the size of individuals collected from both ends of the beach. Results of ANCOVA showed no significant difference between the regression lines obtained for the oxygen uptake of crabs collected at both ends of the beach. It is concluded that physical features of each end of the beach seem not to differ enough to produce differences in oxygen uptake of E. analoga, or in the biomass, population structure and body size of crabs, within a single beach of south‐central Chile.     

Structures in deposits from beach recovery, after erosion by swell waves around the southwestern coast of Aruba (Netherlands Antilles)

Hurricane- or storm-generated swell waves may cause erosion and deposition along coasts which are situated thousands of kilometers outside the generating wind field. Marked beach erosion, caused by such swell waves, was observed along the micro-tidal west coast of Aruba. During the process of erosion a swash bar was formed, which moved up-beach during the waxing part of the swell event. The swash bar welded to the beach during the waning part of the event. Rapid sedimentation occurred on the upper beach. Finally, recovery of the beach was observed. The formation of a swash bar was attributed to an erosive, dissipative interval of a normally accretionary reflective beach. The sedimentary structures, although generally in line with observations on other beaches, show several peculiar characteristics: (1) the great thickness of the laminae in these calcareous sands; (2) the succession of low-angle sigmoidal and tangential sets in the swash bar; (3) the relatively steep erosional lower set boundaries and the wedge-shaped lamination in the successive stages of beach recovery; and (4) the several types of deformation structures.