Continental shelf waves off the Fukushima coast

Numerical experiments are performed on shelf waves forced by wind stress with a spectral peak around a period of 100 hr. Water depth in the numerical model is a function of offshore distance only and resembles a bathymetric profile off the Fukushima coast. A pair of vortices alined in the offshore direction and a large vortex are reproduced and they propagate southward outside the forced region. Judging from the propagation speed, the former corresponds to the second-mode and the latter to the first-mode shelf waves. In the forced region, the propagation speed of a trough and a ridge is slow, 3–5km hr^–1. These propagation characteristics reproduce those observed along the Fukushima coast and this propagation speed corresponds to that of second-and third-mode shelf waves. Thus, it is concluded that the periodical current fluctuations observed in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are due to motions associated with the second-and third-mode shelf waves.     

Continental shelf waves off the Fukushima coast

Past observations and theories have indicated the importance of the constitution of the lowest-mode of shelf waves to the velocity field. However, significant contributions of the higher mode waves to current velocity fluctuations in the vicinity of the coast are suggested in observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast in Pt. I of this study (Kubota et al., 1981). To understand the importance of the higher modes, the generation of shelf waves is investigated theoretically by two methods. First, the generation of long shelf waves by monochromatic forcing is examined, and it is concluded that near the coast the second mode's contribution to the longshore velocity is the largest for the Fukushima coast. Second, the response of shelf waves to broad-band forcing is investigated by taking the dispersive characteristics of shelf waves into consideration. It is concluded that shelf waves with zero group velocity are selectively excited if the forcing has a broad-band spectrum. According to observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast, the wind spectrum has a broad peak at about 100 hours (Kubota et al., 1981). Since the third mode of shelf waves has zero group velocity around the period of 100 hours, the third mode can be selectively generated off the Fukushima coast. From this it is suggested that the Fukushima coast is in the forced region and that observed current fluctuations are motions associated with the second- and third-mode shelf waves.     

Propagation of semi-diurnal internal tides observed off fukushima,along the east coast of Japan

Analysis of current velocity and temperature records obtained from moored buoy systems deployed off the east coast of Japan reveals the intermittent occurrence of semi-diurnal internal tides and their manner of propagation. The internal tidal waves clearly propagate toward the shore, which is confirmed by cross-correlation of the onshore current velocity and temperature between neighboring stations. The propagation speed of the internal tide increases with water depth except in the area furthest offshore. In this area, motions near the second mode seem to occur occasionally, while in the nearshore area the motions for the most part consist of the first mode. Through harmonic analysis, it is shown that theM ₁ internal motions were not vertically homogeneous. That is, the internal motions are greater at the lower level in the nearshore area while they are greater at the upper level in the offshore area. Pathways along which the energy of the internal tide should propagate are estimated in such a way that the characteristic curves pass through the area over which relatively large onshore/offshoreM ₂ velocity is distributed. The movement of the characteristic ray of a certain phase explains the observed phase velocity estimated from the cross-correlation diagrams. Internal motions around the characteristic ray were pronounced in a rather wide area. Thus, it is suggested that the generation region of the internal tide in the present study area might be relatively wide.     

Continental shelf benthos off Otago Peninsula,New Zealand

Benthic macrofauna of the continental shelf off Otago Peninsula, south-eastern New Zealand (45°51′S, 170°52′E) was surveyed by dredge sampling during 1973–1975. Numerical classification (Canberra metric coefficient and flexible sorting) was used to produce site groups and species groups, and three major benthic communities were recognised: a shallow-water (14–25 m) fauna inhabiting well-sorted fine sand, a mid-shelf fauna (concentrated in the depth range 50–76 m) associated with sediments containing the greatest proportions of gravel and siltclay, and a predominantly sand-bottom fauna occurring mainly on the outer shelf (87–150 m). All station groups were dominated numerically by polychaetes (mean of 36·6–56% of individuals) with Mollusca (13·8–25%) or Crustacea (12·1–19·4%) the next most abundant group.The inshore sand fauna was the most distinct, characteristic elements being the trochid gastropod Antisolarium egenum, an amphipod of the genus Hippomedon and dense patches of the spionid polychaete Spiophanes bombyx. Diagnostic species of the mid-shelf mixed sediments were Lepidonotus jacksoni, Psammolyce antipoda, Lumbrineris brevicirra and Phyllamphicteis foliata (Polychaeta), Terenochiton otagoensis, Micrelenchus caelatus caelatus, Maoricolpus roseus roseus and Zegalerus tenuis (Mollusca), Ampelisca chiltoni (Amphipoda) and Amphipholis squamata (Ophiuroidea). Outer shelf sand stations were faunally less distinct, but among the more characteristic species were Euthalenessa fimbriata, Sigalion sp. and Euchone sp. (Polychaeta) and Gari stangeri (Bivalvia). Several abundant species were widely distributed among station groups, notably Nephtys macroura, Lumbrineris magalhaensis, Phyllochaetopterus socialis and Owenia fusiformis (Polychaeta) and Nucula nitidula and Tawera spissa (Bivalvia).Free-living lunulitiform Bryozoa of the genus Otionella were a characteristic component of inner and outer shelf sand faunas, and their inshore penetration probably marks the outer limit of a turbulent zone.Species diversity (Margalef's d) varied markedly across the shelf and appeared to be related primarily to the degree of sediment heterogeneity. Mixed sediments of the middle shelf were particularly rich in species.     

厦门湾口外近岸陆架区海底沙波发育特征

利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响.结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10～60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°～1°;平面上沙波区...     

Diurnal shelf waves off Hamada on San'in Coast

The tidal current data observed off Hamada on San'in coast have shown the diurnal tidal currents to be larger than the semidiurnal ones by a factor of 5–8, although the ratio (K₁+O₁)/(M₂+S₂) for the tidal heights at Hamada is 1.3. Furthermore, the diurnal currents are found to be more remarkable on the shelf slope than on the shelf. We consider such diurnal current features as being due to the vortical mode waves, and show that the broad shelf and steep shelf slope off San'in coast allow 1st-mode interior shelf waves (ISWs) at a diurnal-period. Using a simple shelf model, it is shown that ISWs occur in response to the seaward component of diurnal tidal oscillations on the shelf and their propagation originates from the western entrance of the Tsushima Straits.     

Characteristics of storm waves off the Mediterranean coast of Israel

A two-year series of directional wave measurement off the Eastern Mediterranean coast of Israel reveals an abundance of high storm waves. Some of these waves have significant height in excess of 5 meters and periods as long as 15 sec.The evolution of the storm waves is described and related to the growth and paths of the storm fronts in Mid-Mediterranean. Shorter-period waves are found to always lead the arrival of longer-period swell. This characteristic is explained by a short decay distance and/or a high migration velocity of the storm front.The scatter plot of significant wave height vs period for the recorded events of each storm describes an open-loop time sequence. The difference in period between that of the peak height event and the period of a fully arisen sea of the same height is found to be indicative of the true decay distance the waves have travelled.     

High-resolution seismic study of modern fine-grained deposits: Inner shelf off the southeastern coast of Korea

The geometry and internal structures of modern sediments on the inner shelf off the southeastern coast of Korea were investigated by means of analysing high-frequency (3.5 kHz) seismic records. The records reveal a wedge-shaped sediment body, tapering off toward the sea. On the basis of reflection patterns, the sediments can be classified into two units; foreset (prodelta) unit and bottomset unit, consisting of sandy muds and clays, respectively. The lateral transition from foreset to bottomset deposits suggests a prograding delta system of the Nakdong River since the late Holocene.     

Seasonal variability of the hydrologic-and-acoustic parameters on the Black Sea shelf off the South Crimea coast

Usingin situ temperature and salinity observations from the Marine Hydrophysical Institute's oceanographic data set, regularities of the formation of structure and seasonal variability of the calculated sound speed field, as well as elements of the latter's vertical stratification in the South Crimea shelf area, have been studied. The ray approximation is applied to consider the influence of seasonal variations of the vertical hydrologic-and-acoustic structure on the propagation of sound in the sea. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The structure of the nearshore branch of the Tsushima current on the shelf off the San'in coast in summer

Current measurements were made at five moored stations over the continental shelf off the San'in coast of the Japan Sea for a month in the summer of 1980 to study the vertical structure of the nearshore branch of the Tsushima Current. The time-mean current for the observational period is 20 to 25 cm sec^–1 eastward near the surface and about 10 cm sec^–1 westward near the sea bottom except at the shallowest station. The time-mean current,i.e. the nearshore branch of the Tsushima Current is mainly due to the baroclinic modes. The currents are less variable in the first half of the observational period, but fluctuate with a several-day period in the latter half. The obtained current data were decomposed into barotropic and baroclinic modes to investigate the detailed characteristics of the fluctuations. In the latter half, the current fluctuations of the two modes with about a 5-day period are well correlated with each other, as the baroclinic mode lagging behind the barotropic mode by 12 hr. The barotropic current fluctuation is correlated to the sea level, with the former leading the latter by about 12 hr. The baroclinic current is correlated to the temperature at the subsurface layer with a shorter time lag.     

Upwelling off the coast of Peru

Geographical distributions of upwelling centers off the coast of Peru are studied on the basis of monthly mean wind data during 17 years from 1939 through 1955. Three remarkable upwelling centers are found near 5°S, 11°S and 15°S, from the analyses. With regard to the negative surface divergence found in the offing of Huacho-Callao (near 11°S) in August, it is pointed out that a local high pressure cell is generated in the atmosphere.     

Impact of internal waves on sound propagation off Bhimilipatnam,east coast of India

Internal waves (IW) are identified off Bhimilipatnam, east coast of India, from the time series CTD (hourly interval) and thermistor chain data (2 min interval) collected during 23–25 Feb 2007. The measurements were carried out at 94 m water depth on the continental shelf edge. These data sets are used to describe the characteristics of IW and their impact on acoustic fields. Garrett and Munk (GM) model has been used to predict the characteristics of low frequency (LF) IW with space and time. Active IW are seen in the layers 54 m–94 m with a velocity of 0.548 km h⁻¹ and the wavelengths of the order of 0.03 km–21.8 km. The model could capture the IW features in the thermocline region accurately than at the bottom. This could be due to the limitation of the model which considers linearity. High frequency IW observed at the bottom could be due to the advection of tidal currents over the shallow irregular bottom in the presence of stratification. The study emphasizes linear IW rather than transient non-linear waves induced by tidal interaction with topography.     

Large sand waves on the Atlantic Outer Continental Shelf around Wilmington Canyon,off Eastern United States

New seismic-reflection data show that large sand waves near the head of Wilmington Canyon on the Atlantic Outer Continental Shelf have a spacing of 100–650 m and a relief of 2–9 m. The bedforms trend northwest and are asymmetrical, the steeper slopes being toward the south or west. Vibracore sediments indicate that the waves apparently have formed on a substrate of relict nearshore sediments. Although the age of the original bedforms is unknown, the asymmetry is consistent with the dominant westerly to southerly drift in this area which has been determined by other methods; the asymmetry, therefore, is probably modern. Observations in the sand-wave area from a submersible during August 1975, revealed weak bottom currents, sediment bioturbation, unrippled microtopography, and lack of scour. Thus, the asymmetry may be maintained by periodic water motion, possibly associated with storms or perhaps with flow in the canyon head.     

Distribution of DDT and other persistent organic contaminants in Canyons and on the continental shelf off the central California coast

Sediment samples were collected to delineate the distribution of contaminants along the central California coast. Sampling included a variety of Canyons and shelf/slope areas to evaluate contaminant transport patterns and potential delivery to Canyons and the continental slope to a depth of 1200 m. Sediments were collected and analyzed for organic contaminants using standard techniques of the NOAA National Status and Trends Program (NS&T). DDT is distributed on the shelf within a zone of fine-grained sediments between Half Moon and Monterey Bays. DDT was found at higher concentrations in Ascension, A?o Nuevo, and Monterey/Soquel Canyons than in Pioneer and Carmel Canyons, the Gulf of the Farallones, or the continental slope. The Monterey Bay watershed appears to be the primary source of DDT. In contrast, PAHs and PCBs on the shelf appear to be derived primarily from San Francisco Bay. DDT appears to be delivered to the deep ocean via the Canyons more than from cross-shelf sediment transport. Sediment budget estimates for the continental shelf north of Monterey Bay need further refinement and more data to account for the movement of material from Monterey Bay onto the shelf.     

Wave hindcasting off the coast of Portugal

A study was conducted applying a second-generation wave model to predictions in coastal zones. The model was calibrated with wave measurements conducted off the Portuguese coast, for a period of 6 months. The wind fields used in the calculation were supplied by the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMRWF). The calibrated model allows good predictions of significant wave height. Satisfactory comparisons have been made with predictions of the WAM model     

海南东方近岸海底活动沙波的地球物理特征及其迁移机制

海南东方近岸海底发育有大量沙波,利用多波束测深、侧扫声呐、浅地层剖面、单道地震资料综合分析了活动沙波的地球物理特征,探讨了沙波的分布特征、迁移机制、活动性及形态演变特征。结果表明,研究区海底沙波分布和规模具有显著空间差异性,大中型沙波主要发育于沙脊上,小型沙波主要发育于沙脊两侧,坑槽区发育近对称沙波,研究区西南部沙波不发育。受潮流和科氏力约束,在海底沙脊西侧沙波迁移方向主要为向北（略偏东）,在沙脊东侧主要为向南（略偏西）;受地形制约,坑槽区近对称沙波迁移可能停止或方向发生改变。沙波活动性强的标志主要包括：① 形态呈不对称的“脊尖槽缓”,② 叠置小沙波与沙纹发育,③ 浅部有透明层,④ 陡坡面反射模糊,⑤ 内部斜交前积结构。分析认为,沙波活动性与其形态密切相关,包括弱运动、强运动、不运动3个演变阶段。     

Macrobenthic polychaete assemblages of the continental shelf and upper slope off the west coast of the South Island,New Zealand

Polychaete assemblages are described from replicate box‐core samples collected in summer 1983 at 18 stations on the continental shelf and upper slope (28–943 m) off the west coast of the South Island, New Zealand, south‐eastern Tasman Sea (c. 41–43°S, 169–172°E). Three main station groupings were identified by multivariate analysis: (1) inner shelf sandy stations characterised by Prionospio australiensis, Aricidea (Acesta) sp., Magelona cf. dakini, Paraprionospio aff. pinnata, Aglaophamus sp., Heteromastus filiformis, and Magelona sp.; (2) middle to outer shelf muddy stations characterised by Levinsenia cf. gracilis, Prionospio australiensis, Paraprionospio coora, Aglaophamus verrilli, and Auchenoplax mesos; and (3) upper slope sandy mud or mud stations characterised by Prionospio ehlersi. A combination of water depth and sediment clay content provided the best correlation with the biotic pattern. Spionidae was the most abundant family (49% of polychaete individuals), which may reflect the scope for opportunistic species in a shelf environment characterised by a high input of terrigenous sediment and episodic upwelling.     

Continental shelf sedimentology: scales of investigation define future research opportunities

Investigations of continental shelf sedimentology can be separated into small-scale sediment–fluid-interaction studies and large-scale sediment-survey techniques. Small-scale studies rely on time-series observations from benthic tripods using current meters, turbidity sensors, CTDs, cameras, and acoustic altimeters and sonars. Large-scale studies rely on repeated spatial surveys using side-scan sonar, acoustic profiling methods, and coring techniques. Over the past four decades these approaches have been very successful in describing the sediments on continental shelves and interpreting the physical forcing mechanisms and resulting sediment transport pathways, depositional sites, sediment budgets, and strata formation. Results from shelf studies carried out off the west coast of North America and the Amazon River are used to illustrate the many insights gained from small-scale and large-scale investigations. Recent developments of new sensors and observational techniques have greatly improved our ability to investigate the sedimentology of continental shelves. The time and spatial scales of resolution for both small-scale and large-scale investigative approaches have begun to overlap, and the possibility of concurrent investigations defines exciting new opportunities for future research.     

Winter counter-wind currents off the southeastern China coast: A review

This review covers the discovery and studies of the year-round northeastward currents off the southeastern China coast, paying special attention to its upwind characteristic in winter, mainly focusing on work by Chinese oceanographers. This current system is a prominent and unique phenomenon in the shelf circulation of the world ocean. The general features of the current system are summarized. The evidence for the existence and the variation of the three parts of the currents—the South China Sea Warm Current, the Taiwan Strait Warm Current and the Taiwan Warm Current—are separately elucidated. The formation mechanisms of the current as a whole are explained using dynamic analysis and numerical simulation results. Some suggestions for further studies are also made.     

Real-time wave forecasts off the western Indian coast

The wave observations at three locations off the west coast of India have been analyzed using artificial neural network (ANN) to obtain forecasts of significant wave heights at intervals of 3, 6, 12 and 24 h. The most appropriate training method requiring an input of four observations spread over previous 24 h has been selected after considerable trials. Further, the networks are trained after filling in the missing information. Larger gaps in data are filled in using spatial mapping involving observations at nearby locations, while relatively smaller gaps are accounted for by the statistical technique of multiple regressions in temporal mode. It is found that by doing so the long-interval forecasting is tremendously improved, with corresponding accuracy levels becoming close to those of the short-interval forecasts. If the amount of gaps is restricted to around 2% per year or so it is possible to obtain 12 h ahead forecasts with 0.08 m accuracy on an average and 24 h ahead forecast with a mean accuracy of 0.13 m. However, in harsher environments the prediction accuracy can change.