Outer frequency spectrum of sea waves and its equilibrium range

Ｔｈｅｐｒｅｓｅｎｔｐａｐｅｒｄｅｆｉｎｅｓｔｈｅｇｅｎｅｒａｌｉｚｅｄａｐｐａｒｅｎｔｅｎｅｒｇｙｄｉｓｔｒｉｂｕｔｉｏｎａｎｄｄｅｒｉｖｅｓｔｈｅａｎａｌｖｔｉｃａｌｆｏｒｍｏｆｔｈｅｓｏ－ｃａｌｌｅｄｇｅｎｅｒａｌｉｚｅｄｏｕｔｅｒｆｒｅｑｕｅｎｃｙｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍｏｒｎｔｈｏｒｄｅｒａｐｐａｒｅｎｔｆｒｅｑｕｅｎｃｙｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍ．Ｉｔｉｓｓｈｏｗｎｔｈａｔｔｈｅｇｅｎ－ｅｒａｌｉｚｅｄｏｕｔｅｒｆｒｅｑｕｅｎｃｙｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍｈａｓａｎｅｑｕｉｌｉｂｒｉｕｍｒａｎｇｅｗｉｔｈａｎｅｘｐｏｎｅｎｔ（ｎ＋３）ａｎｄｔｈｅｕｐｐｅｒｌｉｍｉｔｏｆｔｈｅｅｘ－ｐｏｎｅｎｔｉｓ－３．ＴｈｅｒｅｓｕｌｔｓｏｆｔｈｉｓｐａｐｅｒａｒｅｕｎｉｖｅｒｓａｌａｎｄａｒｅａｐｐｌｉｃａｂｌｅｆｏｒａｎｙｏｔｈｅｒｗａｖｅｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｆｔｈｅｒａｙｔｈｅｏｒｙｏｆｗａｖｅｓａｎｄｔｈｅＬｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ,ｌｉｎｅａｒｒａｎｄｏｍｗａｖｅｍｏｄｅｌａｒｅｅｘａｃｔｅｎｏｕｇｈｆｏｒｔｈｅｉｒｄｅｓｃｚｉｐｔｉｏｎ．     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

海滩体积时空变化和波浪场的奇异谱分析

海滩响应波浪动力作用的变化是海岸带陆海相互作用研究的重要内容.利用奇异谱分解方法对南湾海滩连续实测剖面的体积变化值与南湾逐日波高变化值的相关关系进行了探讨,以诊断分析波浪在海滩变化过程中的内在作用机制,结果表明:(1)海滩体积的时空变化与波浪作用力有明显的相关关系;(2)海滩响应波浪动力作用变化最明显的地方是在中间岸段,在直线岸段次之,在遮蔽岸段最弱;(3)对海滩变化有较强作用的波浪场分别位于近岸及其与上下岬角连线的邻近区域.     

Directional spectrum analysis and statistics obtained from ERS-1 SAR wave images

This work examines ERS-1 (the first European Remote Sensing Satellite) SAR (Synthetic Aperture Radar) water surface wave images over Hualien of Taiwan, indicating that the variation of SAR signals in space domain is similar to in situ wave data's in time domain. Some statistical properties of SAR data are investigated. The Rayleigh distribution function closely corresponds with the histogram of wave heights, but the Gaussian one cannot for water surface displacements. Evidence reveals that SAR wave signals do not respond well to actual ocean waves effectively. As wave spectral analysis of available SAR data reveals, the appropriate sample size of SAR wave image, sampling average, and moving average should be taken carefully to accurately confirm directional power spectra. Moreover, SAR spectra are compared with in situ ones, confirming that peak frequencies correlate well and wave directions approximately agree with each other. Some differences between both spectral shapes remain somewhat unclear and require further study. Nevertheless, in this study, ERS-1 SAR power spectra verified the feasibility of deriving an appropriate dominant wave direction and peak frequency.     

由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征

采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.     

贝叶斯统计方法在海浪方向谱研究中的应用

较详细介绍了贝叶斯统计方法在海浪方向谱估计中的应用,指出先验分布的不同对估计结果没有影响,由于均匀分布与最大熵原则相对应,使其具有某种特殊性.数值模拟表明贝叶斯方法对双峰方向分布估计的有效性,将其应用于黑海实测资料,证明双峰方向分布的出现依赖于估计方法分辨力的大小,而用最大似然法得到的双峰方向分布值得怀疑.最后给出出现双峰方向分布的一种可能物理解释.     

南海及台湾海峡台风浪的数值计算研究

本文应用ＬＡＧＦＯＦＩＯ的建立第三代海浪模式，采用波数能谱直接模拟海浪谱的方法，进行南海及台湾海峡台风浪的后报和分析计算结果与实测值拟合较好，表明ＦＩＯ－ＳＯＡ方法适用于该海区台风浪的数值计算。     

Is the wind wave frequency spectrum outdated

This paper presents a detailed examination of the practice of using the frequency spectrum to characterize wind waves. In particular, the issue of stationarity and Gaussian random process in connection with wind wave studies is addressed. We describe a test for nonstationarity based on the wavelet spectrum. When this test is applied to wind wave time series, the results significantly diverge from those expected for a Gaussian random process, thus casting critical doubts on the conventional concept of the wind wave frequency spectrum.     

The difference between the joint probability distributions of apparent wave heights and periods and individual wave heights and periods

The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts.     

GPS浮标数据反演海浪谱的理论仿真与试验验证

GPS浮标作为一种新型的海洋测量设备,近年来在海面高度现场测量和星载高度计定标方面取得了重要应用。通过仿真试验对反演海浪谱的方法和流程进行研究,旨在探索从GPS浮标测量的海面高度序列中提取海浪谱的方法。首先,使用Longuest模型生成了海浪波面位移时间序列,并通过Pierson-Moscowitz风浪谱对波面位移的统计特性进行约束,其随机性由相位引入。结合典型潮汐和GPS浮标仪器噪声的仿真时间序列,合成了仿真时间长度1h的1Hz(每秒1次)随机海面高度序列。然后,利用自相关函数法,进行高通滤波和数据压缩,得到了仿真的海浪谱。该仿真结果和理论海浪谱非常接近,可满足海浪谱反演的需求。最后,通过山东石岛外海的GPS浮标现场试验,验证了本文提出的反演方法的适用性。本文的研究解决了GPS浮标反演海浪谱的关键问题,丰富了海浪谱反演的手段,拓展了GPS浮标的应用领域,有望为未来我国的星载波谱仪定标服务。     

Nonlinear optimization method of ship floating condition calculation in wave based on vector

Ship floating condition in regular waves is calculated. New equations controlling any ship＇s floating condition are proposed by use of the vector operation. This form is a nonlinear optimization problem which can be solved using the penalty function method with constant coefficients. And the solving process is accelerated by dichotomy. During the solving process, the ship＇s displacement and buoyant centre have been calculated by the integration of the ship surface according to the waterline. The ship surface is described using an accumulative chord length theory in order to determine the displacement, the buoyancy center and the waterline. The draught forming the waterline at each station can be found out by calculating the intersection of the ship surface and the wave surface. The results of an example indicate that this method is exact and efficient. It can calculate the ship floating condition in regular waves as well as simplify the calculation and improve the computational efficiency and the precision of results.     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较（英文）

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在,如何进行分离风浪和涌浪一直是海浪理论研究和海洋工程应用中的重要问题。本文利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法（2D法）和三种一维谱风涌浪分离方法（PM法、WH法、JP法）进行了检验,分析发现：2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

波列在时、空域的数值模拟试验及波要素的统计比较

利用Longuet-Higgins 波浪模型,分别用无因次JONSWAP谱和文圣常谱生成时间序列的表面波列与其相匹配的空间序列表面波列,作波浪特征波要素间关系的数值试验检验.由实测资料核对表明,以往有关工程上应用的理论和经验关系有的可信度高,有的似应作改进,特别不能将在时间序列上得到的有关经验数据贸然用在空间序列的表面波上.     

Probabilistic distribution of the maximum wave height

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio.The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height.Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ,Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３,Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：...     

Stochastic Doppler shift and encountered wave period distributions in Gaussian waves

We show how to calculate the encountered wave period distribution for a ship traveling with constant speed on a Gaussian random sea with a directionally distributed frequency spectrum.     

基于非线性模型的畸形波模拟及其时频能量谱研究

采用VOF(volume offluid)方法实现了畸形波的数值模拟.将数值结果与线性理论(方程(5))计算结果进行了对比,发现数值模拟结果更能够反映非线性特征.使用小波分析方法研究了畸形波的时频能量谱,发现形成畸形波的过程中存在很强的波浪非线性相互作用,使得波浪的能量向高频端转化.变水深地形可以加强波浪的非线性相互作用.使得转化到高频端的能量更多,产生畸形程度更大的畸形波.     

Maximum entropy principle and statistical distribution of ocean wave heights

Ｍａｘｉｍｕｍｅｎｔｒｏｐｙｐｒｉｎｃｉｐｌｅａｎｄｓｔａｔｉｓｔｉｃａｌｄｉｓｔｒｉｂｕｔｉｏｎｏｆｏｃｅａｎｗａｖｅｈｅｉｇｈｔｓ￥ＷｕＫｅｊｉａｎａｎｄＳｕｎＦｕ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＭａｙ１５,１９９５;ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＪｕｎｅ２１,１９９５）Ａ...     

X波段雷达近岸影像波谱分析

X波段岸基雷达作为一种新颖的海况遥感观测方式,可直接观测到实时的海况信息。通过对雷达影像的分析,能够获得海面上的波浪场。由于波浪在近岸的折射、浅化变形等原因,观测到的雷达影像场为近岸非均匀波浪场,在一定程度上限制了传统影像分析方法——傅里叶变换的应用。针对波浪的近岸非均匀性,将二维小波变换应用于雷达影像分析,子影像中6个空间点的波数谱显示:影像中的波浪非均匀性显著,主能量的波数呈现明显的增加趋势。二维小波变换应用到X波段雷达近岸影像处理中,可较好体现近岸波浪的非均匀性。