基于数字图像的山东长山岛砾石海滩表层砾石形貌特征研究

天然砾石海滩作为一种高能环境下的海岸堆积体,因其粒径粗、孔隙度大等特征,是良好的海岸防护屏障。了解砾石海滩形成过程离不开砾石形貌这一重要参数,但要快速、准确获得大量砾石的定量参数比较困难。本文对山东北长山岛3个砾石海滩(九丈崖、月牙湾、长滩)、南长山岛的4个砾石海滩(仙境源、林海、长山尾和明珠广场)进行现场剖面测量并采集砾石样品及砾石图像,应用ImageJ软件对砾石进行原位无干扰数字图像测算,可以快速大量分析砾石粒径、磨圆度等形貌参数。结果显示：砾石的粒径范围为4～79 mm,主要集中在中砾,各海滩分选较好;其中,北长山岛海滩的砾石平均粒径略小于南长山岛,北长山岛九丈崖海滩的砾石平均粒径最大,南长山岛的仙境源海滩砾石平均粒径最小。向海方向从滩肩到高潮线平均粒径逐渐减小,但在水边线处增大。砾石磨圆度介于0.59～0.75之间,等级均为圆状,砾石海滩均已达到较成熟阶段;其中北长山岛的月牙湾海滩砾石磨圆最好,长滩海滩砾石的磨圆最差,由陆向海磨圆度值呈增大的趋势。形状比率范围介于1.36～1.77之间,与磨圆度呈明显负相关(R²=0.98),砾石由陆向海从长条状渐变为椭圆状。南、北长山岛的砾石海滩的砾石形貌受到物源、动力条件和人为活动的影响。研究区砾石海滩坡度范围为16%～35%,海滩坡度与沉积物粒径呈正相关。     

Variations in grain‐size and sorting on two kaikoura beaches

Two exposed, high‐energy beaches on the Kaikoura coast of New Zealand are composed of sand and gravel derived from a greywacke terrain. Both beaches can be classified as mixed beaches although the sediment varies from dominantly gravel at the ends of the beach to dominantly sand at the centre, through transition zones in which sand and gravel are mixed. Sixty‐four surface samples were analysed for grain size; two sediment parameters, mean grain size (M_z) and sorting (σ_I), were calculated.

A striking feature of the cumulative frequency curves is that both unimodai and bimodal distributions include median sizes over the whole range of sampled material, even though bimodal samples display two strong modes in the sand and gravel grades. The general deficiency lof sediment dn the very coarse sand and granule classes (0 to — 2 _F ) noted by numerous authors in many parts of the world is apparent in the poorly‐sorted bimodal samples. However, the best‐sorted samples also occur in these two classes.

Mean grain size of samples ranges from medium sand (1.820) to medium pebbles (—4.7 _F ), and sorting ranges from very well sorted (0.250) to very poorly sorted (2.69 _F ). Mean erain size on the northern beach is significantly greater than on the southern beach, but values of sorting are comparable. The greater mean size on one beach compared with the other is thought to be a function of the grade of material supplied by local rivers; the similarity in sorting presumably reflects the similarity of the processes acting on the two beaches.

Mixed sand‐shingle beaches are relatively rare on a world scale but common in New Zealand. Sediment distributions along the Kaikoura beaches do not reveal a regular decrease in size away from the rivers which supply material to shore at present. Instead, the beaches are differentiated into a number of sediment zones composed of either sand, or mixed sand‐gravel, or gravel. On each beach a gravel zone is located furthest from the river outlets. Sorting generally improves toward the Kaikoura Peninsula. Explanations for these trends are not given. Variations in size and sorting across the two beaches do not show a well developed zonation because of the high level of wave energy which continually mixes the material across the beach.     

海南万宁大花角巨砾石海滩特征与成因

巨砾石是颗粒直径大于256 mm的沉积物。巨砾石海滩(Boulder beach)是一种少见的海岸类型,形成条件特殊,与砾石海滩(2~60 mm)沉积动力特征不同,是具有旅游价值和学术价值的资源。对海南万宁大花角巨砾石海滩的调查研究结果表明,海滩主要是由直径500~1 000 mm、磨圆、光滑的巨砾石排列而成的,剖面平滑,宽40 m,高9 m,海滩坡度13°。与普陀岛的巨砾海滩相比,本海滩更为典型,海滩巨砾石磨圆更好、宽度更大、海滩低潮至高潮之间高度更大,海滩形态也更完好。它的形成与海岸岬湾地形、地质条件、高能波浪等有关。巨砾石磨圆极好、表面光滑,但是粒径比一般鹅卵石大1~2个数量级。巨砾石海滩与砾石滩在沉积特征和动力地貌特征不同,是不同类型的海滩。     

威海典型海滩沉积地貌及质量评价

选择威海双岛湾附近海滩、国际海水浴场海滩、金海滩、青叽岛以西海滩、青叽岛以东海滩、天鹅湖海滩、桑沟湾海滩、楮岛海滩、南海新区海滩和乳山银滩十处代表性岸滩进行了海滩地貌和底质调查,结合沙滩表层样品分析测试数据,对研究区海滩地貌、沉积物粒度分布特征及海滩质量进行了综合评价。结果表明:威海海滩沉积物主要包括砾砂、粗砂、中砂、细砂四种类型,其中中砂分布最广,约占所有点位的35.6%,细砂、粗砂、砾砂分别占34.4%,26.7%和3.3%。岸滩坡度一般较缓,宽度中等以上,岸滩质量整体较好,部分岸滩受沉积物粒度影响,质量稍差。     

台风季节朱家尖岛砂、砾质岬湾海滩的不同沉积地貌动态变化

岬湾砂、砾质海岸是海岛、海岸带重要的旅游资源, 具有较高的社会经济和生态价值, 长期以来备受关注。本文以浙江朱家尖岛东岸的5个代表性岬湾海滩为例, 基于2019年台风季节早期、中期及晚期测量获得的海滩地形和沉积物数据, 结合海滩近岸的水动力数据, 分析了砂质海滩和砾石海滩这两种不同类型岬湾海滩的沉积地貌动态变化。结果表明, 朱家尖岛东岸5个海滩在台风季节出现了不同的体积变化, 大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩的单宽体积变化分别为11.93m³·m^-1、-54.41m³·m^-1、-19.75m³·m^-1、2.19m³·m^-1和-1.96m³·m^-1。砾石滩较砂质海滩更为稳定, 无人类活动干扰的砂质海滩在台风季节侵蚀更少、变化更小。台风季节大沙里、东沙、千沙、乌石塘和小乌石塘海滩表层沉积物的平均粒径分别为2.47Փ、2.24Փ、2.64Փ、-5.96Փ和-6.03Փ, 粒径粗化和离岸输运是5个海滩表层沉积物在台风季节的主要表现, 砂质海滩的沉积物粒度特征变化比砾石海滩要大。沉积物粒径、台风强度及台风期间的主要波向与海滩走向之间的关系、海岸工程这3种因素都可能对海滩在台风季节的沉积地貌动态变化产生影响。本文研究结果可为台风季节的海滩管理提供参考。     

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure,data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project “Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches”, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions.The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols.     

The sandy beach macrofauna of Gulf of Gabès (Tunisia)

This study describes the macrofauna of the three beaches situated in central Gulf of Gabès (Tunisia): Ouderef, Gabès and Zarrat. The Gulf of Gabès has the largest tides in the Mediterranean and the beaches showed a wide intertidal zone. The beaches were sampled once during the spring low tides of June 2005. A transect was extended at each beach, from above the drift line to below the swash line at five sampled levels; at each level six 0.05 m² replicates were taken to a depth of 30 cm and sieved through a 1-mm mesh, and the organisms collected and preserved. The three beaches showed a different physical environment. Sediment type was medium sand at the steeper Ouderef beach, fine sands at Gàbes beach, and very fine sands at the flatter Zarrat beach. The total number of species collected was 31: 12 crustaceans, 10 polychaetes, four molluscs and five insects. The supralittoral and mediolittoral zones were very different. The supralittoral zone was dominated by Talitrus saltator and insects. The most abundant mediolittoral species were the amphipod crustacean Bathyporeia guilliamsoniana at Ouderef beach (23069 ind.m⁻¹), the surf clam Donax trunculus at Gabès beach (60711 ind.m⁻¹) and the spionid polychaete Scolelepis mesnili at Zarrat beach (18345.6 ind.m⁻¹).     

Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts

The equation most commonly used to describe the bay planform was proposed by Hsu and Evans (1989) and it was obtained through empirical analysis of sand beach planforms.In the last decade interest in gravel sediments increased owing to their greater stability on beaches, compared with sand sediments. Due to the differences between the morphodynamics of sand and gravel beaches, which is strictly influenced by their different hydraulic characteristics, it was necessary to create a predictive instrument for this beach type as well.Therefore, in this study the standard Hsu and Evans equation (1989) was modified in order to make it applicable not only to sand beaches but also to gravel beaches. The shoreline was computed according to a parabolic model in polar coordinates whose coefficients are considered linearly dependent on the wave direction and related to the beach type. The estimation of the free parameters of the model was performed according to a statistical analysis of a shorelines data set of Mediterranean sand and gravel embayed beaches.     

山东长岛砾石海滩侵蚀及修复

由于自然环境的变化和人类活动的加剧,海岸侵蚀的状况越发严重,近年来国际上砾石养滩作为一种新的海滩养护方法开始兴起,由于其粒径粗、孔隙度大,波浪下渗率较高,起到抵浪消浪的作用,从而形成稳定度较高的海滩,在海滩养护中有着重要的作用。2014年和2016年对山东长岛的砾石海滩做过2次实地调查,研究发现砾石海滩确存在侵蚀现象,滩面下蚀深度最高达到0.6 m,海滩宽度也有变窄的趋势。因此,建议当地采用砾石养滩的方法进行海滩修复,根据当地状况并结合国外砾石养滩的案例可知,砾石抛填的位置应在高潮线以上,填充厚度至少应达到3~4 m,粒径以2~50 mm较好,将滩肩扩宽至30 m海滩能够稳定一段时间。砾石海滩经修复后不仅能够防护海岸,也能够促进当地旅游业的发展,提升城市的品味。     

Modelling storm hydrodynamics on gravel beaches with XBeach-G

In this paper we present a process-based numerical model for the prediction of storm hydrodynamics and hydrology on gravel beaches. The model comprises an extension of an existing open-source storm-impact model for sandy coasts (XBeach), through the application of (1) a non-hydrostatic pressure correction term that allows wave-by-wave modelling of the surface elevation and depth-averaged flow, and (2) a groundwater model that allows infiltration and exfiltration through the permeable gravel bed to be simulated, and is referred to as XBeach-G. Although the model contains validated sediment transport relations for sandy environments, transport relations for gravel in the model are currently under development and unvalidated. Consequently, all simulations in this paper are carried out without morphodynamic feedback. Modelled hydrodynamics are validated using data collected during a large-scale physical model experiment and detailed in-situ field data collected at Loe Bar, Cornwall, UK, as well as remote-sensed data collected at four gravel beach locations along the UK coast during the 2012–2013 storm season. Validation results show that the model has good skill in predicting wave transformation (overall SCI 0.14–0.21), run-up levels (SCI < 0.12; median error < 10%) and initial wave overtopping (85–90% prediction rate at barrier crest), indicating that the model can be applied to estimate potential storm impact on gravel beaches. The inclusion of the non-hydrostatic pressure correction term and groundwater model is shown to significantly improve the prediction and evolution of overtopping events.     

Stability of an artificially nourished beach,Balaena Bay,Wellington Harbour,New Zealand

Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity.     

The effects of storms and storm-generated currents on sand beaches in Southern Maine, USA

Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms.

Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer.

A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s⁻¹ and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months.     

砾石海滩的沉积和形态动力特征

天然砾石海滩的物质主要来源于河流输入，海岸侵蚀，海底侵蚀，沿岸输送，人类活动及冰川搬运等，砾石海滩在地貌上表现出明显的分带性，海滩坡度的大小随物源和动力条件发生变化，砾石的磨蚀速率与岩性及周围沉积物粒度组成有关，人工砾石海滩建设可借鉴天然砾石海滩的形成和演化过程，合理地设计物质组成，砾石形状和大小，以便能更快地使人工海滩达到平衡状态并维持海滩的稳定性。     

Artificial beach growth for breakwater protection at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island, New Zealand

The paper concerns beach growth by trapping longshore drift to form a protective beach seaward of the principal “weather” breakwater at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island. This “spending beach” concept was aproached by evaluating downdrift extension and considerable progradation of an existing accumulation at South Beach which is a product of harbour development since 1879 and which was held in quasi-stability by ongoing extractions of the net surplus littoral drift of coarse sands and gravels (averaging 60,000 m³ yr⁻¹).A one-line model was adapted from sand beach conditions and scaled to the morphology and processes of the mixed sand and gravel beaches at Timaru. Calibration of the model was performed from related research into the rates and temporal pattern of longshore drift on South Beach. A hundred year history of shoreline progradation against the harbour structures was utilised to verify the model.The concept offered a high benefit: cost ratio for a small engineering intervention provided shoreline forms and behaviour could be specified sufficiently for planning, statutory consent, engineering, economic and environmental impact assessment purposes. A 150 m long spur groin near the harbour entrance would trap about 12 ha of sand and gravel in about 8 years. The new shore would be better aligned to the dominant swell and storm waves than the present shore, so reducing long term net drift rates.Construction of the scheme commenced in May 1987 and progress to date is detailed.     

Identifying storm impacts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland

Large sections of the western Irish coast are characterised by a highly compartmentalised series of headland-embayment cells in which sand and gravel beaches are backed by large vegetated dune systems. Exposure to modally high-energy swell renders most of these beaches dissipative in character. A mesotidal range (c. 3.5–4.5 m) exists along much of the coast. Analysis of instrumental wind records from three locations permitted the identification of a variety of storm types and the construction of storm catalogues. Few individual storms were recorded at all three stations indicating a lack of regional consistency in storm record. Of the total storms recorded, only a small percentage are potentially damaging (onshore directed) and even fewer span a high tide and thus potentially induce a measurable morphological response at the coast.

Through a combination of historical records, meteorological records, field observations and wave modelling we attempt to assess the impact of storms. Quantifiable records of coastal morphology (maps, air photos and beach profiles) are few in number and do not generally record responses that may be definitely attributed to specific storms. Numerical wave simulations and observations at a variety of sites on the west Irish coast, however, provide insights into instantaneous and medium term (decadal) storm responses in such systems.

We argue that beaches and dunes that are attuned to modally high-energy regimes require extreme storms to cause significant morphological impact. The varying orientation of beaches, a spatially nonuniform storm catalogue and the need for a storm to occur at high water to produce measurable change, impart site-specific storm susceptibility to these embayments. Furthermore, we argue that long-period wave energy attenuation across dissipative shorefaces and beaches reduces coastal response to distant storms whereas short-period, locally generated wind waves are more likely to cause major dune and beach erosion as they arrive at the shoreline unrefracted.

This apparently variable response of beach and dune systems to storm forcing at a decadal scale over a coastline length of 200 km urges caution in generalising regarding regional-scale coastal responses to climatic change.     

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.     

Importance of orientation to the sun and local landscape features in young inexpert Talitrus saltator (Amphipoda: Talitridae) from two Italian beaches differing in morphodynamics,erosion or stability

Juvenile sandhoppers (Talitrus saltator Montagu 1808; Crustacea: Amphipoda) were tested under natural conditions to examine their ability to orient to the sun and local features. Experiments were carried out on two Italian sandy beaches subject to different geomorphological dynamics, one under erosion from the sea and the other one under morphodynamic equilibrium (between erosion and accretion). Laboratory-born samples of each population were tested on their beach of origin and compared with wild individuals of the same age; other laboratory-born samples were tested on both beaches, that of origin and the other beach. The population from the beach displaying geomorphologic equilibrium, oriented seawards on both beaches, referring to the sun and the local landscape, while the population from the beach under erosion tended to orient to prominent landscape features on both beaches displaying a scototaxis. These results showed the importance of orientation to local landscape features in young inexpert talitrids, and the innateness of this behaviour in natural populations when shoreline stability allows for a genetic stabilisation of orientation mechanisms.     

西沙群岛现代滨岸的风暴沉积

本文仅以1984年10号风暴为例,讨论了风暴前后的水动力条件及路径变化.重点阐述了该次风暴对西沙珊瑚礁区的潮间和潮上带现代砾堤和海滩的影响.描述了珊瑚礁区的砾堤沉积物的空间分布及垂向序列,并对沙质海滩的风暴搬运过程进行了适当的讨论.西沙砾质砾堤和沙质海滩无论从沉积序列上还是从沉积物的结构成份上,都存在着较大的差异,它们是在一种水动力条件下形成的两种不同的沉积体,在沉积过程中各有自身的沉积特点.本文尝试性地从上述角度提出一种沉积序列的空间格局,以便为古代沉积物的研究提供一些滨岸风暴沉积的信息.     

Sedimentary Environment in the Taiwan Shoal

The Taiwan shoal sediments are well sorted, rounded, medium-coarse sands containing a large amount of shell and beach rock fragments and basalt gravels of deltaic, coastal, and aeolian origin. Underwater sand waves are formed by the combined tidal currents and remolded by storm waves.     

Sedimentary Environment in the Taiwan Shoal

The Taiwan shoal sediments are well sorted, rounded, medium-coarse sands containing a large amount of shell and beach rock fragments and basalt gravels of deltaic, coastal, and aeolian origin. Underwater sand waves are formed by the combined tidal currents and remolded by storm waves.