深圳西涌滨海旅游区海滩裂流风险评估及特征分析

基于海滩地形动力学、遥感影像的风险预识别以及现场排查等方法,对西涌滨海旅游区海滩裂流风险进行了初步评估.评估结果表明:地形动力分析结果显示,西涌滨海旅游区泳场逐月平均沙滩类型大部分是沿岸沙坝和裂流沟槽交替的沙坝型(B),风险等级高;影像特征判断该沙滩属于沿岸沙坝和裂流沟槽交替的沙坝型(B)或者低潮位附近伴有冲流沙坝及裂...     

华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究

为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故,自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查,在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果,本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性,尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化,冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中,裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区,但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时,部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明,当入射角达到10°～30°时,沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时,较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应,导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测,以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。     

山东半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸沉积、地貌的横向差异及成因分析———以海阳万米海滩岸段和威海国际海水浴场岸段为例

根据2011年在海阳万米海滩岸段与威海国际海水浴场岸段调查获得的夏、冬两季海岸实测地形剖面与沉积物粒度数据,并收集相关水文资料,对南北两海岸地貌与沉积差异性进行分析,探讨了半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸动力环境的差异。研究结果表明,南部海岸宽广平缓,发育滩脊、滩肩、沙波纹等地貌,沉积物在水下岸坡上段以中粗砂、中细砂为主,水下岸坡以下段以粉砂、黏土质粉砂为主;北部海岸地形陡,发育滩肩陡坎、水下沙坝等地貌,沉积物以砾质砂为主。导致这些差异的动力为风、波浪、潮汐及沿岸流堆积。     

国内裂流研究进展

裂流是我国华南沿海地区较为频发的一种自然灾害。本文从国内裂流发生概况、裂流的研究历史以及研究进展等方面对裂流作出阐述,并与国外研究裂流的方法进行了对比。介绍了国外在现场观测运用的方法和设备、国内自研究裂流以来开展的物理模型试验、数值模型以及评价裂流风险的方法。展望了未来国内裂流的研究趋势。     

湛江东海岛裂流风险评价

裂流是海滩旅游中重要的安全隐患,国内目前还很少有裂流风险的评价研究。文章基于地形动力学模型对湛江东海岛海滩裂流风险从年平均、逐月平均和逐月常浪向状况下进行了评价。结果表明:(1)东海岛海滩全年平均状态为沙坝消散型海滩,一年四季出现裂流的概率较大,为中等危险性的海滩;(2)逐月平均海滩类型以沙坝消散型为主,但在6—7月海滩类型为低潮沙坝/裂流型,海滩风险等级最高,8月的月平均海滩状态为无沙坝消散型,属于危险性较低海滩,但此时波浪向为SE向时,海滩状态变成低潮沙坝/裂流型,裂流风险等级很高;(3)海滩管理者要重视对海滩裂流风险的管理。     

相同尺度地形与背景流共振生成内孤立波机制

为研究内孤立波的地形和背景流共振机制,用地形和背景流共振机制计算了3个潜标观测的内孤立波(不同模态、不同波长)的流速和传播速度,并与观测到的内孤立波进行比较。潜标观测的第一模态内孤立波(波长分别为6.4和3.3km)都是下凹型内孤立波,2个内孤立波的传播速度约为1.4m/s、最大振幅约为48m,水平流向结构都是上层西北向、下层东南向,波长3.3km 的内孤立波波峰前后有更明显的下降流和上升流。用共振机制计算出的第一模态和第二模态纬向流速的垂向结构与观测相同,最大纬向流速出现的深度与观测一致,分别相差5和12m。用共振机制计算出的内孤立波传播速度与用 KdV 方程计算的传播速度相当,共振机制计算波速为0.66~1.21m/s,KdV 方程计算波速为0.79~1.40m/s。     

华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类

海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。     

亚临界雷诺数下V型沟槽圆柱减阻数值模拟

为了深入研究亚临界雷诺数下光滑和沟槽圆柱绕流阻力及流场特性。采用SSTk-w模型对雷诺数Re分别为2×104,6×104,1×105和1.4×105的光滑圆柱和V型沟槽圆柱绕流进行三维流场数值模拟,首先以光滑圆柱绕流为算例与相关实验研究结果进行了对比,验证了SSTk-w方法的准确性,然后在不同雷诺数条件下,开展了V型沟槽圆柱绕流数值模拟研究;与光滑圆柱相比,V型沟槽圆柱具有较好的减阻效果,最大减阻率达28.4%;在相同雷诺数下,沟槽圆柱表面边界层分离点与光滑圆柱表面分离点相比更靠后。V型沟槽织构可有效改变尾流区旋涡脱落频率和尾流区湍流的发展,为隔水管减阻和提高隔水管柱系统的稳定性提供参考。     

威海海域发现文昌鱼

文昌鱼(Branchiostoma belcheri)在我国南海、黄海和渤海的近岸均有发现，是我国二级保护动物，主要分布于厦门、青岛、烟台等地。2002年3月份在威海国际海水浴场进行鲸类资源调查时，在该海域首次发现了文昌鱼。     

基于XBeach模型的深圳金沙湾裂流的数值模拟

金沙湾是粤港澳大湾区重要的滨海旅游景点之一,深受世界各地游客的青睐.利用XBeach模型模拟金沙湾海滩的近岸环流,研究了不同模拟波况下裂流的发生情况.结果表明,金沙湾产生裂流很大程度上受到波高和地形的影响,在年平均有效波高波况下,金沙湾沿岸无明显裂流,当入射波高超过某个阈值后,沿岸裂流风险提高.裂流的强度和离岸距离与入...     

离岸流灾害水动力学过程的数值模拟研究

离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

Implementation and modification of a three-dimensional radiation stress formulation for surf zone and rip-current applications

Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS v 3.0), a three-dimensional numerical ocean model, was previously enhanced for shallow water applications by including wave-induced radiation stress forcing provided through coupling to wave propagation models (SWAN, REF/DIF). This enhancement made it suitable for surf zone applications as demonstrated using examples of obliquely incident waves on a planar beach and rip current formation in longshore bar trough morphology (Haas and Warner, 2009). In this contribution, we present an update to the coupled model which implements a wave roller model and also a modified method of the radiation stress term based on Mellor (2008, 2011a,b,in press) that includes a vertical distribution which better simulates non-conservative (i.e., wave breaking) processes and appears to be more appropriate for sigma coordinates in very shallow waters where wave breaking conditions dominate. The improvements of the modified model are shown through simulations of several cases that include: (a) obliquely incident spectral waves on a planar beach; (b) obliquely incident spectral waves on a natural barred beach (DUCK'94 experiment); (c) alongshore variable offshore wave forcing on a planar beach; (d) alongshore varying bathymetry with constant offshore wave forcing; and (e) nearshore barred morphology with rip-channels. Quantitative and qualitative comparisons to previous analytical, numerical, laboratory studies and field measurements show that the modified model replicates surf zone recirculation patterns (onshore drift at the surface and undertow at the bottom) more accurately than previous formulations based on radiation stress (Haas and Warner, 2009). The results of the model and test cases are further explored for identifying the forces operating in rip current development and the potential implication for sediment transport and rip channel development. Also, model analysis showed that rip current strength is higher when waves approach at angles of 5° to 10° in comparison to normally incident waves.     

Boussinesq modelling of transient rip currents

The flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model. The random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated. Variable wave-averaged currents were generated because of the spatially variable wave field, and sometimes formed offshore directed rip currents that appear in variable longshore locations. The rip currents are associated with a vortex pair which is generated within the surfzone and subsequently propagates offshore. Analysis of the vorticity balance show that the main vorticity input occurs within the inner surfzone. Three different beach slopes and four different wave spectra are simulated. The frequency, duration, and intensity of the transient rips depend on both the beach slope and the incident wave spectra. The results have important engineering implications for the transport of material in the nearshore zone, in particular on longshore uniform beaches.     

工程养护海滩对"803"风暴潮的响应过程研究

研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮,导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m,沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上,利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型,研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致,风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动,但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大,海滩响应更加剧烈; （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42,常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95,因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳; （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著,坝顶流速明显增大,最大可达 1.21 m/s,是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍,而在人工沙坝向岸侧,因波能提前耗散,流速减为 0.28 m/s,是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍,且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少,易于恢复.     

深圳龙岐湾海滩资源调查与开发建议

文章基于2022年春、秋季开展的龙岐湾沙滩资源调查数据,分析较场尾沙滩、大塘角沙滩、黄泥湾沙滩和桔钓沙沙滩的剖面特征、沉积物粒径和裂流发生情况。研究结果表明：4处沙滩剖面的坡度秋缓春陡,剖面受风浪和潮汐直接作用时坡度变化大,受遮蔽时坡度变化小,整体呈冬春淤积、夏秋侵蚀;沙滩沉积物以中砂、粗砂和砾石为主,粒径变化不大;沙滩均无明显裂流发生,为低风险等级。建议开发沙滩旅游应考虑季节性的补沙方案,开展围垦养殖和海岸工程应注意削弱ESE向和SE向的波浪作用。     

珊瑚礁海岸波流运动特性整体物理模型实验研究

根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁-潟湖-裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征.结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7％,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9％,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势...