Is the wind wave frequency spectrum outdated

This paper presents a detailed examination of the practice of using the frequency spectrum to characterize wind waves. In particular, the issue of stationarity and Gaussian random process in connection with wind wave studies is addressed. We describe a test for nonstationarity based on the wavelet spectrum. When this test is applied to wind wave time series, the results significantly diverge from those expected for a Gaussian random process, thus casting critical doubts on the conventional concept of the wind wave frequency spectrum.     

Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum

The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit     

Generation mechanisms for capillary-gravity wind wave spectrum

We investigate the role of different physical mechanisms in the generation of the capillary-gravity wind wave spectrum. This spectrum is calculated by integrating a nonstationary kinetic equation until the solution becomes stready. The mechanisms of spectrum generation under consideration include three-wave interactions, viscous dissipation, energy influx from wind, nonlinear dissipation, and the generation of a parasitic capillary ripple. The three-wave interactions are taken into account as an integral of collisions without additional simplifications. It is shown that the three-wave interactions lead to solution instability if the kinetic equation takes into account only linear sources. To stabilize the solution, the kinetic equation should incorporate a nonlinear dissipation term, which in the range of short gravity waves corresponds to energy losses during wave breaking and microscale wave breaking. In the range of capillary waves, the account of nonlinear dissipation is also needed to ensure a realistic level of the spectrum for large wind velocities. For the steady-state spectrum, the role of three-wave interactions remains essential merely in the range of the minimum of phase velocity, where a trough on the curvature spectrum is formed. At the remaining intervals of the spectrum, the main contribution into the spectral energy balance is provided by the mechanisms of wave injection, nonlinear dissipation, and the generation of parasitic capillaries.     

The equilibrium range of wind wave frequency spectrum

-Theoretical form of equilibrium range is given on the basis of the wind wave frequency spectra proposed by Wenel al. (1988a,b,c, 1989a,b). The effects of peakness factor and water depth are discussed. In the case of deep water the e-quilibrium range is reduced to the form first proposed by Toba (1973) and the coefficient of the formula is shown to be the function of nondimensional fetch or peak frequency. Results of the present paper have been verified through field data.     

Assessing wind wave spectrum representations in a shallow lake

This paper presents an objective assessment of three published wave spectrum formulas for the shallow sea. It compares wave spectra estimated by these formulas with those calculated from actual field measurements made in Lake Erie during 1981 in depths ranging from 1.4 to 14.0 m. The results show that the models each have various degrees of effectiveness and applicability. The choice of which model to use may depend upon the availability of input parameters, and is still basically subjective. The models specifically developed for the shallow depth are found to be less effective. The form of spectral representation may remain similar at all depths, with depth affecting only the wave parameters that characterize the spectrum form.     

On the wave dependence of sea-surface wind stress

Analysis is made of wind and wave data, which were obtained during the passage of Typhoon 8013 at an Ocean Data Buoy Station south of Honshu operated by the Japan Meteorological Agency, in order to investigate the wave dependence of sea-surface roughness parameter in the situation where wind waves are dominant with less significant swells. The data fit better the wave-dependent expression of the wind stress,z _{0 p}/u*=, than to Charnock's formula,gz ₀/u*²=, wherez ₀ is the roughness length, _p the angular frequency of the spectral peak of wind waves,u* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, and are non-dimensional constants. The results are very similar to those of our previous study using data from an oil producing platform in the Bass Strait, Australia, although the type of observation system and the synoptic situation of the winds and wind waves were totally different.     

Effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on wind wave growth

The paper considers the effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on the wind wave growth by using the logarithmic boundary layer profile including a stability function, as well as adopting Toba et al.'s [J. Phys. Ocean. 34 (1990) 705] significant wave height formula combined with some commonly used sea surface roughness formulations. The wind wave growth is represented by the non-dimensional total wave energy relative to that for neutral stability used by Young [Coast. Engng 34 (1998) 23]. For a given velocity at the 10 m elevation, spectral peak period and stability parameter, the wind wave growth is determined.     

基于最大熵原理的非瑞利海浪波高的统计分布

本论文在最大熵原理的基础上,通过解一个条件变分问题导出一种适用于描述非瑞利海浪波高H统计分布的概率密度函数fn(H)=αHre-βHn,用实验室风浪槽中不同风速下和不同风区处实测的36组风浪波高数据对上述概率密度函数进行验证,并与至今仍被广泛应用的瑞利波高概率密度函数加以比较.结果显示瑞利概率密度函数显著地偏离实验数据,而上述概率密度函数则与各组实测波高分布均符合良好.     

Measurement of directional spectrum of wind waves using an array of wave detectors

A method is proposed to estimate the true directional spectrum of wind waves by making use of more than four wave detectors. The true spectrum of wind waves whose wave lengths lie between about 1.1 and 2.6 times the largest span between the wave gauges can be recovered with an error less than 0.5 %. An additional wave gauge with fixed maximum span extends its effectivity to shorter wave lengths, but does not effect the upper limit of wave length.The method is based on the fact that the spectrum estimated byBarber (1961) is connected with true directional spectrum by the Fredholm integral equation of the first kind if the wave component satisfies the dispersion relation. Solving the equation by using the Fourier series method, we can get true spectrum.     

Probabilistic distribution of the maximum wave height

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio.The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height.Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum

In this part ot the paper theoretical wind-wave spectra nave been derived oy (I) expressing the spectrum in series composed of exponential terms; (2) assuming that the spectrum satisfies a high order linear ordinary differential equation; (3) introducing proper parameters in the spectrum; and (4) making use of some known charateristics of wind-wave spectrum, for instance, the law governing the equilibrium range. The spectrum obtained contains the zero order moment of the spectrum m0, the peak frequency ω0 and the ratio R =ω/ω0 (ω being the mean zero-crossing frequency) as parameters. The shape of the nondimensional spectrum S(ω) = ω0S(ω)/m0(ω=ω/ω0) changes with R and theoretically reduces to a Dirac delta function δ(ω-1) when R = 1. A spectrum of simplified form is given for practical uses, in which R is replaced by a peakness factor P=S(1).     

高度计风速反演算法比较及波浪周期反演初探

利用浮标实测数据和TOPEX/Poseidon高度计资料的时空配准数据,对迄今为止已提出的有代表性的7种卫星高度计海面风速反演模式函数进行了分析比较,指出考虑波浪状态影响的解析算法在均方根误差和对称性方面的优越性,讨论了目前在波浪周期反演方面存在的问题以及可能的解决途径.     

基于QuikSCAT卫星遥感风场的台风最大风速半径反演及个例分析

建立了一种卫星遥感风场的最大风速半径(Rmax )反演方法.该方法基于 QuikSCAT 风场,结合 JTWC 台风参数资料,将遥感平均风剖面与 Holland 台风模型进行最小二乘法拟合来反演 Rmax.2001-2009年13个台风69幅数据反演结果统计分析表明:用气压表征台风强度的 P 算法遥感反演结果与 JTWC 分析结果的标准差为10.7 km,效果较好.此外,通过0513、0519和0221 3个典型台风过程的 Rmax 演变情况分析表明:对于对称性结构较好的成熟台风,反演结果能较好地反映出不同台风的 Rmax 尺寸差别,台风过程中 Rmax 的演变情况符合台风发展情况;台风风场对称性差、地形以及背景流场的影响,是导致 Rmax 反演出现较大偏差主要因素.     

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。     

The computation of maximum wind speeds of typhoon

-At present, it is still difficult to obtain an accurate maximum wind speed of typhoon with modern means,such as satellite survey , radar tracing and airplane reconnaissance. The performance of statistical equation established with observational maximum wind speed and the central pressure of typhoon is unstable ,and it is unreliable in operational use. Therefore a general pressure field model of typhoon is introduced in this paper based on atmospheric motion equations and formulas are derived for computing the maximum wind speed around typhoon center over sea surface . The theoretical curves derived from these formulas are in good agreement with those using the statistic empirical curves of typhoon pressure-wind relations over the western Pacific. Tests were conducted for typhoons which occurred in 1973 and in 1983 and the strongest typhoons selected each year during 1970 and 1978,the results were satisfactory. Meanwhile the analyses of computing results showed that the effect of Coriolis force could be     

Measurements of directional spectrum of wind waves using an array of wave detectors Part II. Field observation

The directional spectrum of wind waves was observed using seven wave gauges at the marine observation tower. Directional spectrum was calculated by the method described inFujinawa (1974 a) which assures the high directional resolving power. Under the nearly uniform condition of the wind the process of wave development was studied by the use of the data of the directional spectrum. The analysis revealed that, 1) the mean wave direction does not necessarily coincide with the wind direction, 2) the directional spreading is much narrower than hitherto reported, 3) the growth rate is closely proportional to the square of cosine of the angle between the wave direction and the wind direction, 4) the resonancetype wave-wave interaction plays only minor role in the process of wave development for any wave component in the earlier stage of development and for the most rapidly developing component in the main stage of development.     

Intermittency of wind wave group breaking

Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave.     

流向Morison型波浪力的高阶矩分析

通过理论研究定量地说明流向Morison波浪力,即拖曳力和惯性力的高阶统计矩随采样次数增加的规律.主要应用二阶Stokes波理论,推导了流向Morison波浪力的前四阶累积量.计算了作用于实际海底管线上的流向Morison波浪力的偏斜度和峰度.结果表明,随着采样次数的增加,拖曳力和惯性力的偏斜度和峰度驱于收敛.文中给出的方法为后续理论工作奠定了基础.     

最大熵模型在海洋生物适生区预测中的应用

最大熵模型是以最大熵理论为基础的一种物种分布模型。经过十几年的发展,最大熵模型的计算方法不断迭代并趋于稳定,并在陆地生物适生区预测中开展了系统的、成熟的应用。而在海洋环境中,最大熵模型的应用也已经进入到了快速发展的阶段。但是受限于数据量的匮乏,最大熵模型在海洋环境中的应用仍旧需要不断的探索。最大熵模型具有小样本量预测的优势,其相关应用成果为单一物种、生物群落、生物多样性的保护,生物入侵事件的管控和预警,渔业养殖的减耗增效等提供了关键性的数据支撑,同时在海洋古生态学研究、海洋基因资源获取、海洋极端环境生物多样性保护等方面极具发展前景。