波浪作用下异重流运动特性研究

本文通过水槽试验和理论分析手段对波浪作用下异重流运动特性进行了研究，应用流体运动基本方程推导了异重流在水平底面运动时的运动速度、厚度和流量表达式。结果表明，计算结果与水槽试验较一致     

Experimental Study on Silt Incipient Motion Under Wave Action

Experiments on silt incipient motion under wave action were carried out.Under wave action,for different wave periods,water depths and bulk densities of silt,the shear stress or height of waves for incipient motion was determined,and a relation between the shear stress and bulk density of silt was established.Results indicate that the critical shear stress depends on the structure of the silt itself,related to the tightness between the grains(or bulk density).Exterior condition is only an external cause of silt incipient motion,and the critical shear stress for the incipient motion is the token of exterior condition.     

波流组合作用下SPAR平台垂荡-纵摇耦合运动研究

探讨SPAR平台在波流组合作用下的运动响应机理。运用Matlab程序分析了SPAR平台产生内共振的运动过程,运用刚体动力学理论建立了平台垂荡-纵摇耦合方程,对波流共同作用下Spar平台的垂荡、纵摇运动进行数值模拟,结果表明:流的加入对于内共振的影响并不明显;同时采用AQWA软件研究了流的加入对于纵荡二阶慢漂力的影响,研究发现,当波流同向时能大大增加Spar平台的纵荡运动,而波流反向时却能明显削弱纵荡运动。本文研究成果对于指导深海浮式结构设计开发具有一定的理论借鉴作用。     

涌浪作用下港内波况试验研究

基于秘鲁钱凯港的防波堤三维整体模型试验结果,研究了涌浪绕射、透射联合作用对港内波况的影响.分析了不同波向、不同谱峰周期的入射波条件下港内不同功能区的波况分布规律,并对比分析了具有不同周期的入射波对港内不同区域波高的影响,兼顾分析了波向的影响.结果表明,在涌浪作用下,受透射、绕射影响,不同入射波条件下港内比波高分布规律相...     

Hydrodynamic Coefficients for Grouping Piles Under the Action of Irregular Waves

-The hydrodynamic coefficients for each of two piles and three piles in both side-by-side arrangement and tandem arrangement under the action of irregular waves are experimentally investigated. These coefficients vary with the KC number, the relative pile spacing, the number of piles and the pile location, and their relationships are presented in this paper. They can be used in Morison Equation and other equations to calculate directly the in-line wave forces and the transverse forces on each pile in array.     

Numerical Simulation for Refraction-Diffraction of Waves in Water of Slowly Varying Current and Topography

A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves in waterof slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper.And corresponding theoretical modelincluding the dissipation term is briefly described,together with some analysis and comparison ofcomputational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model(Berkhoff et al.,1982).An example of practical use of the method is given,showing that the present model is useful to engineeringpractice.     

Numerical Simulation of Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Wave Action

A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data.     

Experimental Study on the Armor Grate Plate of Sloping Breakwater Under the Action of Irregular Waves

The irregular wave experiment on the stability of the Grate Plate was carried out in the lightof the wind wave spectrum recently advanced by Prof.Wen Shengchang.The stability formulas of GP un-der the action of irregular waves were procured.Comparisons between the formulas obtained and those ofGP under regular waves advanced by the first author in 1993 showed a coincident result.     

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves     

大洋Rossby波动纬向传播速度的分布特征

利用1992年10月22日-2001年7月17日扣除年循环的T／P和ERS-1／-2的卫星融合高度计资料，应用二维Radon变换方法，对太平洋和大西洋的洋盆东部、西部的大洋Rossby波的纬向传播速度进行了分析与对比，并将二者分别与经典线性理论值比较，得出洋盆西部的Rossby波普遍比洋盆东部传播要快；中纬度海域大洋Rossby波的传播速度观测值与理论值的比率小于前人结果；并且在热带及副热带海域，大洋Rossby波的传播速度的观测值要低于理论值的结论。     

大尺度圆柱墩群周围的波流场的数值模拟

本文对波流共同作用下大尺度圆柱墩群周围的波流场进行了数值研究。利用波浪弥散关系的迭代计算求得波向与流向的夹角以及波浪的相对频率。流场通过求解浅水环流方程得到,波浪场通过求解含流的缓坡方程得到,通过二者的迭代计算得到大尺度圆柱墩群周围的波流场的耦合解。用有限元法建立了数值模型,并将本文的计算数据与试验数据以及其他学者计算数据进行了比较,结果较为合理。     

Hydrodynamic Forces on Inclined Cylinder due to Waves with Crossing Current

Based on Morison's Equation and linear wave theory, hydrodynamic forces acting on inclined cylinders due to waves and crossing current at an angle of a, are analyzed. A method for calculating exciting forces is proposed. Experimental results show that the proposed method in this paper is feasible and can be used in engineering practice.     

Experimental Study of Hydrodynamic Loading on Submarine Composite Pipelines under the Action of Waves and Current

- This article is aimed at the experimental study of the hydrodynamic loading induced by waves and current acting on the JZ 20-2 submarine composite pipelines. The corresponding hydrodynamic coefficients obtained in this experimental study can be applied to engineering projects.     

潮流及单向流作用下海底沙波形成和运移试验

基于量纲分析理论进行水槽试验,研究了潮流以及单向流作用下海底沙波的形成和发展过程。通过分析 海床地形数据,对海底沙波的特征尺度和发展过程进行定量描述,得出了潮流流速、周期、水深以及叠加单向流等因素对沙波特征尺度的影响。结果表明,潮流作用产生的海底地貌由大尺度的沙波和小尺度的沙纹共同组成,大尺度沙波在地貌形态塑造中占主导地位。从平坦海床开始,沙波波高和波长随水流作用逐渐增大,增长速度越来越慢,最终达到动态平衡。沙波特征波高和特征波长随流速和水深增大而增大,同时随往复流周期的增大而增大,并不断趋近于单向水流的情况。进一步对小尺度的沙纹地貌进行分析,得出了沙纹特征尺度随水流条件的变化规律。     

Wave-Current Forces on Vertical Cylinders in Side-by-Side Arrangement for Irregular Waves Combined With Opposing Current

- The wave-current forces on vertical piles in side-by-side arrangement induced by irregular waves with opposing current are investigated experimentally in this paper. The characteristics in both time and frequency domain of in-line, lift and resultant forces are analyzed. The grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on piles related to KC number and relative spacing parameters are given. These results are compared with those in the case of irregular waves combined with following currents. It is found that the results in these two cases are quite different. The range of KC number tested is 10- 60, the range of Reynolds number is (0.55-3.43) ×104.     

Longshore Currents of Random Waves on Different Plane Beaches

1 .IntroductionWhenwavespropagateobliquelytotheshorelineandbreak ,ameancurrentisgeneratedflowingparalleltothecoast.Thegenerationoflongshorecurrentscanbeexplainedasfollows .Withbreakingwaveheightdecreasing ,themomentumofwavemotionwillchangecorrespondingly .Accordingtothemomentumconservationtheory ,thechangesofthemomentumwillbeaccompaniedwithadditionalforcesactingonfluid .Longuet Higgins ( 1 970 )usedtheconceptofradiationstresstodescribetheaboveadditionalforceactingonfluidduetothechangeofwavemo…     

Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes

The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown.     

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

波浪作用下浮泥悬扬浓度特性研究

为研究不同波浪环境下,水底浮泥层产生泥沙悬扬后其浓度的分布特性,使用浊度计测定浊度的方法确定水体中泥沙的浓度,并在水槽实验中改变水深、浮泥厚度及造波机的频率和振幅,观察水槽中悬浮泥沙浓度的变化情况,获得水深、波浪频率、波幅以及浮泥厚度对底床泥沙悬扬的影响,分析泥沙浓度的垂向分布特征等。实验结果显示,水深对底床泥沙悬扬的影响最为显著,其他实验参数的影响均不十分显著。同时,通过垂向输沙平衡的分析,得到一个可描述泥沙垂向浓度分布的理论公式,并利用水槽实验结果进行验证。对比结果显示,理论公式所得曲线与实验结果曲线变化趋势一致,部分工况下,理论值稍稍偏大。     

一种新型便携式旋桨流速仪

介绍了一种新型BH-1型便携式旋桨流速仪,主要由自主研制的流速传感器、手持式主机及微机数据回放处理软件三部分组成.其传感器采用独特的导流筒和导流罩结构设计,增加了系统的抗干扰能力,有效提高了测量准确性.应用单片机技术实现了数据的实时检测与处理,多路存储以及瞬时测量流量功能.通过静态试验标定,表明该流速仪测量范围(0.04～4)m/s,非线性误差为0.874%.该流速仪结构新颖、使用轻巧方便、稳定可靠,已广泛应用于国家海洋局对陆源入海排污口排污监测和海洋环境管理工作中.