Monitoring of suspended sediment variation using Landsat and MODIS in the Saemangeum coastal area of Korea

Suspended sediment concentration (SS) is an important indicator of marine environmental changes due to natural causes such as tides, tidal currents, and river discharges, as well as human activities such as construction in coastal regions. In the Saemangeum area on the west coast of Korea, construction of a huge tidal dyke for land reclamation has strongly influenced the coastal environment. This study used remotely sensed data to analyze the SS changes in coastal waters caused by the dyke construction. Landsat and MODIS satellite images were used for the spatial analysis of finer patterns and for the detailed temporal analysis, respectively. Forty Landsat scenes and 105 monthly composite MODIS images observed during 1985-2010 were employed, and four field campaigns (from 2005 to 2006) were performed to verify the image-derived SS. The results of the satellite data analyses showed that the seawater was clear before the dyke construction, with SS values lower than 20 g/m(3). These values increased continuously as the dyke construction progressed. The maximum SS values appeared just before completion of the fourth dyke. Values decreased to below 5 g/m(3) after dyke construction. These changes indicated tidal current modification. Some eddies and plumes were observed in the images generated from Landsat data. Landsat and MODIS can reveal that coastal water turbidity was greatly reduced after completion of the construction.     

Surface current variability in the Keum River Estuary (South Korea) during summer 2002 as observed by high-frequency radar and coastal monitoring buoy

High-frequency (HF) radar observations of surface currents were conducted for 3 months during summer 2002 in the Keum River estuary. A comparison between HF radar-derived currents and directly measured ones form a buoy showed that the regression slope is close to 1 and the correlation coefficient greater than 0.86, with an RMS difference less than 13 cm/s which is less than 17% of the tidal current. This fairly good agreement allows us to use HF radar observation in investigating the surface flow and circulation in this tidal-current-dominant coastal-plume area. To examine the spatial variation in tidal current characteristics, as well as currents associated with non-tidal forcing, the HF radar-derived currents were separated into tidal and sub-tidal frequency currents. The overall pattern of M₂-current ellipse distribution in the study area showed a counterclockwise rotation, with the offshore maximum current direction to the northeast. Eccentricity, the direction of maximum current, and the phase of net motion of the ellipse changed near the estuary mouth and near the gap of the Saemangeum reclamation tide dyke due to the complex coastal geometry and the out-flowing jet during the ebb period.     

Movement of tidal watersheds in the Wadden Sea and its consequences on the morphological development

The Wadden Sea consists of a series of tidal lagoons which are connected to the North Sea by tidal inlets. Boundaries of each lagoon are the mainland coast, the barrier islands on both sides of the tidal inlet, and the tidal watersheds behind the two barrier islands. Behind each Wadden Island there is a tidal watershed separating two adjacent tidal lagoons. The locations of the tidal watersheds in the Wadden Sea are not fixed. Especially after a human interference in one of the tidal lagoons, a tidal watershed can move and thereby influence the distribution of area between the lagoons. This appears to be important for the morphological development in not only the basin in which the interference takes place, but also in the adjacent basins. This paper describes theoretical analyses and numerical modelling aimed at improving the insights into the location of the tidal watersheds, their movements, and the impact of the movements of tidal watersheds on the morphological development of a multi-basin system like the Wadden Sea.     

The effect of tide on the hydrology and morphology of a freshwater river

How does river hydrology and morphology change due to tidal influence? We contend that this is a question of particular consequence to many earth surface disciplines, but one that has not been adequately addressed. Previous studies have relied on gradients in channel morphology and stratigraphy to infer energy regime of channels. However, in tidal rivers geomorphology influences the energy regime while the energy regime influences morphology; thus, geomorphic and stratigraphic patterns do not fully resolve the mechanisms which lead to change. We addressed this problem by comparing measurements of hydraulic energy and channel morphology along a tidal gradient to predictions of these characteristics in the absence of tides, and attributed the differences to tidal processes. Measurements of discharge, channel area, and energy dissipation (in kJ day^–1) were made over a 24·8 hour period at four sites spanning the non‐tidal to tidal freshwater Newport River, NC. We then predicted those characteristics under non‐tidal conditions using hydraulic geometry relationships and literature values from coastal plain rivers. Discharge was enhanced more than 10‐fold by tide, and this tidal effect increased from upstream to downstream along the tidal gradient. Cross‐sectional area increased three‐fold due to tide. Energy dissipation measured in the upper tidal river was four‐fold lower than predicted to occur in the absence of tide because tides decreased average velocity and discharge. Energy dissipation measured downstream was similar to that predicted to occur without tides, although there was large uncertainty in predicted values downstream. While this limited dataset does not permit us to make broad generalizations for definitive models, it does provide a proof‐of‐concept for a new approach to addressing a critical problem at the interface of fluvial and coastal morphology. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Local and remote response of the North Sea dynamics to morphodynamic changes in the Wadden Sea

The response of the tidal system in the southern North Sea to morphodynamic changes was investigated in a modelling study using fine resolution bathymetric observations available for 1982–2011. The Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model (SCHISM) was set up for the different sets of bathymetries. One set of bathymetry was compiled from a large number of bathymetric measurements over many years, while the other two reflected bathymetry state in the area of Wadden Sea during 2000 and 2011, respectively. The temporal and spatial evolution of bathymetry was dominated by migration of tidal channels. The M4 tide showed larger sensitivity to bathymetric change in the Wadden Sea than the M2 tide, whereas the structure of the latter remained rather robust. The largest change of the tidal wave due to the differences in bathymetries was located off the North Frisian Wadden Sea. Traces of changes were also found far away from the regions of their origin because the tidal waves in the North Sea propagate the local disturbances basin-wide. This illustrated an efficient physical mechanism of teleconnectivity, i.e. effecting the local responses to the larger-scale or remote change of ocean bottom caused by erosion and deposition. The tidal distortion resulting from the relatively small bathymetric changes was substantial, particularly in the coastal zone. This is a manifestation of the nonlinear tidal transformation in shallow oceans and is crucial for the sediment transport and the morphodynamic feedback, because of the altered tidal asymmetry.     

Seasonal to decadal forcing of high water level percentiles in the German Bight throughout the last century

For the purpose of coastal planning and management, especially under changing climatic conditions, enhanced knowledge about the evolution of extreme sea levels in the past, present, and future is required. This paper presents statistical analyses of high seasonal water level percentiles of 13 tide gauges in the German Bight, spanning over a period of up to 109 years throughout the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Seasonal and annual high percentile time series of water levels were investigated in comparison to the mean sea level (MSL) for changes on seasonal, inter-annual, and decadal timescales. While throughout the first half of the twentieth century extreme water levels generally followed changes in MSL, during the second half of the century, linear extreme sea level trends exceeded those in MSL in the order of 9–64 cm per century. The largest, although insignificant, contribution to the magnitude of these trends occurs in the winter season (January to March), while smaller but, due to the generally lower atmospheric variability, significant changes are observed during spring (April to June). The observed multi-decadal trends are generally in good agreement with multi-decadal trends in the corresponding percentiles of local zonal surface winds. Only small parts of the trends remain unexplained. It is suggested that these remaining trends result from modifications in the local tidal regime. For the aspects of coastal planning, the findings clarify that in the German Bight, in addition to changes in MSL, potential changes in storminess and in the tidal regime significantly contribute to the development of extreme water levels. Since these factors have influenced the characteristic of extremes throughout the recent past, they also have to be taken into account when estimating design water levels for, e.g., dikes (in a warming climate) under changing greenhouse gas emissions.     

A hydrographic time series station in the Wadden Sea (southern North Sea)

In the tidal inlet between the East Frisian islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog, southern North Sea, a time-series station was set up in autumn 2002 as part of the research programme BioGeoChemistry of Tidal Flats run by the University of Oldenburg. The purpose of the station is to provide continuous data on physical, biological and chemical parameters. In addition to instruments recording basic hydrographic and meteorological parameters, the time-series station is equipped with acoustic Doppler profilers for measuring surface waves and current profiles. Compact optical spectrometers are being used for spectral measurements of seawater transmission and for daylight reflectance. Additional sensors were installed for measuring oxygen, nutrients and methane in the seawater. The data shall help to quantify the flux of dissolved and suspended matter between the backbarrier tidal flat and the open sea and to characterise the material transformation in the tidal flat area by biogeochemical processes over the tidal cycle. Due to its novel design, operation of the station is also possible during winter and under extreme weather conditions (gales, storm surges, and sea ice) when data sampling with conventional platforms such as research vessels, buoys, or smaller poles could not be performed in the past. In this way, time series of data are obtained, which include events that are most relevant to the evolution of this coastal area. The performance of the station and its equipment are presented with data covering 6 years of operation. Time series of air and water temperature as well as seawater salinity demonstrate the multiyear dynamics of these parameters in the East Frisian Wadden Sea. Hydrographic data collected under specific meteorological conditions such as gales and storm surges exemplify the all-weather capabilities of the station and its value for studying hydrographic processes in the Wadden Sea.     

Changes in topography and surface sediments by the Saemangeum dyke in an estuarine complex,west coast of Korea

The effects of a giant offshore dyke, Saemangeum, have been of special interest on both scientific and environmental aspects. Without any rival worldwide with regard to the ample scale and estuarine setting, the Saemangeum dyke and its vicinity (Saemangeum Area) should be an unprecedented experimental site for monitoring the consequence of the estuarine developments with dykes. In order to unravel geologic changes caused by the Saemangeum dyke, we collected a number of surface sediment samples and bathymetric profiles from a full coverage of the Saemangeum Area, and compared topography and sediment phase on the inter-annual (2002–2006, post-construction) and decadal (1982–2002, between pre- and post-construction) timescales.     

Towards continuous long-term measurements of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in turbid coastal waters

The dynamics of sediment transport in the East Frisian Wadden Sea are important for the coastal zone and for ecosystem functioning. The tidal inlets between the East Frisian islands connect the back-barrier intertidal flats to the North Sea. Here, concentrations of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in the water column are highly variable, depending on weather conditions and tides. In order to estimate the nature and quantity of sediment transport, in situ measurements were carried out at a Time Series Station in the tidal inlet between the islands of Spiekeroog and Langeoog. This study shows the suitability of multispectral transmissometry (MST) for obtaining long-term SPM measurements with high resolution. The comparability of this technique to the standard filter method and the laser diffraction method [laser in situ scattering and transmissometry (LISST)] is demonstrated. In addition, the Junge coefficients derived from both MST and LISST measurements are compared. A time series of SPM data covering nearly 4 months is presented. As a major result, the data reveal that a single storm surge can have less impact on SPM dynamics than longer-lasting gales. This high-resolution long-term data set is very valuable for modelling suspended matter flux. It also provides background information for studying the influence of SPM dynamics on coastal sediments.     

Influence of macrofauna long-term natural variability on benthic indices used in ecological quality assessment

An essential prerequisite for the assessment of the ecological quality of marine ecosystems is the understanding of the natural variability and its effect on the performance of quality indices. This study is focused on the long-term natural variability of diversity, biotic and multimetric indices by using long-term macrofauna data of a coastal area in the southern North Sea (1978-2005). The univariate and most biotic and multimetric indices respond significantly on specific natural disturbance events such as cold winters, but the strength of response varied between indices as well as between events. As a result, the ecological quality status can decrease over a range of 3 (out of 5) classification units. The overall ecological quality was good to high, but an increase of indices occurred from the mid 1980s onwards due to changes in the climate regime. This long-term variability has to be considered within ecological quality assessment schemes.     

Coastal protection of the isle of usedom — conceptional design of an offshore breakwater system at the streckelsberg, Baltic Sea

The Isle of Usedom is located in the South of the Baltic Sea on the border between Poland and Germany. The Streckelsberg is midway along the coastline of the island. The cliff coast area is extremely exposed to waves.Coastal protection works have been carried out here for the last 100 years, starting in 1895 with the construction of a revetment. All efforts could not solve the erosion problems in the long-term. Therefore, it was decided to install a new system of coastal protection measures in 1994. The conceptional design includes a system of three offshore breakwaters in combination with a beach nourishment system. To minimize downdrift erosion a groyne scheme will be additionally installed.The aim of the offshore breakwaters is to reduce the wave energy transformed into the sheltered area and to consequently reduce the longshore sediment transport. It is expected to support the natural development of a salient which will form the main part of the complete coastal protection system.     

Long-term variations in river and sea factors responsible for the hydrological regime and morphological structure of the Thames River mouth area

General geographic features of the Thames River, its basin, and mouth area, consisting of the tidal mouth reach of the river, a large estuary, and an open nearshore zone of the river mouth (the North Sea coastal zone) are discussed. The peculiarities of river and sea hydrological factors responsible for the regime of the Thames River mouth area are described in detail. Characteristics of the river water runoff were specified and supplemented by the data on the river inundations in the area of London. Particular emphasis was placed on variations in the mean sea level in the area of the Thames River mouth as well as on specific features of tides and storm surges in the area of the sea inlet into the estuary. Main regularities in the estuary evolution during Holocene and present-day morphological processes in the Thames River mouth area were revealed.     

Possible resetting of quartz OSL signals during earthquakes—Evidence from late Pleistocene injection dikes, Dead Sea basin, Israel

Clastic dikes are formed either by passive deposition of clastic material into pre-existing fissures (depositional dikes), or by fracturing and injection of clastics during earthquakes (injection dikes). We proposed to use optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating to distinguish between the two modes of formation and hypothesized that (1) depositional dikes filled from above show OSL ages younger than the host rock; and (2) injection dikes filled from below show the same OSL ages as that of the host rock. We studied the mechanisms of clastic-dike formation and their ages within the seismically active Dead Sea basin, where hundreds of dikes crosscut the late Pleistocene (70–15 ka) lacustrine sediments of the Lisan Formation. Field observations and analysis of magnetic tensors show unequivocally that most of these dikes were emplaced by injection, inferred to be due to seismically triggered fluidization–liquefaction during earthquakes. Twenty-eight samples were collected from the Lisan source material and dikes that, based on field observations, are unmistakably either depositional dikes or injection dikes.

Quartz single aliquot OSL ages of the source Lisan layers are between 43 and 34 ka, and are typical for the Lisan Formation. The ages of both depositional and injection dikes are between 15 and 17 ka, younger than the Lisan host rock. Depositional dikes show a highly scattered distribution of single grain ages, suggesting several episodes of infill. Single grain ages of injection dikes are of latest Pleistocene to Holocene, and do not contain recently bleached grains that infiltrated from above. These results imply that the OSL signals were reset at the time of fluidization–liquefaction and buildup of fluid pressure within the injection dikes. If this resetting mechanism has a physical ground, then OSL dating is an important tool for constraining the ages of earthquake-induced injection dikes and recovering paleoseismic data from them.     

Modeling studies of tidal dynamics and the associated responses to coastline changes in the Bohai Sea,China

Over the past 30 years, reclamation projects and related changes have impacted the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the Bohai Sea. Three-dimensional tidal current models of the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea were constructed using the MIKE 3 model. We used a refined grid to simulate and analyze the effects of changes in coastline, depth, topography, reclamation, the Yellow River estuary, and coastal erosion on tidal systems, tide levels, tidal currents, residual currents, and tidal fluxes. The simulation results show that the relative change in the amplitude of the half-day tide is greater than that of the full-day tide. The changes in the tidal amplitudes of M₂, S₂, K₁, and O₁ caused by coastline changes accounted for 27.76–99.07% of the overall change in amplitude from 1987 to 2016, and water depth changes accounted for 0.93–72.24% of the overall change. The dominant factor driving coastline changes is reclamation, accounting for 99.55–99.91% of the amplitude changes in tidal waves, followed by coastal erosion, accounting for 0.05–0.40% of the tidal wave amplitude changes. The contribution of changes in the Yellow River estuary to tidal wave amplitude changes is small, accounting for 0.01–0.12% of the amplitude change factor. The change in the highest tide level (HTL) is mainly related to the amplitude change, and the correlation with the phase change is small. The dominant factor responsible for the change in the HTL is the tide amplitude change in M2, followed by S2, whereas the influence of the K1 and O1 tides on the change in the HTL is small. Reclamation resulted in a decrease in the vertical average maximum flow velocity (V_VAM) in the Bohai Sea. Shallower water depths have led to an increase in the V_VAM; deeper water depths have led to a decrease in the maximum flow velocity. The absolute value of the maximum flow velocity gradually decreases from the surface to the bottom, but the relative change value is basically constant. The changes in the tidal dynamics of the Bohai Sea are proportional to the degree of change in the coastline. The maximum and minimum changes in the tidal flux appear in Laizhou Bay (P-LZB) and Liaodong Bay (P-LDB), respectively. The changes in the tidal flux are related to the change in the area of the bay. Due to the reduced tidal flux, the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea has decreased, impacting the ecological environment of the Bohai Sea. Strictly controlling the scale of reclamation are important measures for reducing the decline in the water exchange capacity of the Bohai Sea and the deterioration of its ecological environment.     

Computing near coastal tidal dynamics from observations and a numerical model

A two-dimensional vertically integrated model of the North Sea is used to compute the distribution of M₂ and M₄ tidal elevations and currents over the region. Comparison of computed and observed elevations and currents in the area shows that the model can accurately reproduce the M₂ tide in the North Sea, although there are difficulties with the M₄ tide particularly in the northern North Sea.Comparison between model and a large number of observations collected in a shallow water region off the east coast of England, revealed that the model can accurately reproduce the tides even in near coastal regions, where model resolution problems can occur. Comparisons of computed and observed M₂ tidal energy fluxes in this region, show that model and observations agree to within the order of 10% (the error associated with the necessary interpolation of the observations in order to compute the energy flux).The problem of computing energy dissipation in the area by subtracting the energy fluxes into and out of the region is shown to be ill-conditioned in that the energy dissipation in the area is comparable to the error in the energy flux. Consequently for the sea region considered here it is not meaningful to compare this energy budget with energy dissipation due to bottom friction.Energy dissipation for the whole of the North Sea is computed using the numerical model and the geographical distribution of dissipation due to bottom friction is given for the M₂ tide.     

Impact of tidal power dams upon tides and environmental conditions in the Sea of Okhotsk

The transformation of natural tidal sea-level and currents is studied resulting from large-scale tidal power plant (TPP) dams in bays of the Sea of Okhotsk (SO). Some effects due to this transformation are estimated based on predictive modelling and a number of expected changes in amplitudes and phases, and spectral composition of tidal oscillations are described. Changes of morphometric properties of basins change the character of tidal motions even on significant distance from a dam. That is why, it is impossible to estimate this impact as usual boundary-value problems. The problem is solved based on “impedance” conditions on the open boundary of the model area, allowing to take into account the radiation of the additional perturbations induced by both waves reflected from the dam and nonlinear effects inside the area. In general, the transformation effects are proportional to the dam size and depend essentially on the dam location, the creation of which can change dissipative and resonance properties of the bays. The changes in tidal energetics of SO due to the dam construction are also considered to show noticeable reconstruction of horizontal energy fluxes and changes in the energy dissipation. Possible environmental consequences are related mainly to the transformation of tidal currents.     

The tidal and wind induced hydrodynamics of the composite system Adriatic Sea/Lagoon of Venice

A shallow water hydrostatic 2D hydrodynamic numerical model, based on the boundary conforming coordinate system, was used to simulate aspects of both general and small scale oceanic features occurring in the composite system constituted by the Adriatic Sea and the Lagoon of Venice (Italy), under the influence of tide and realistic atmospheric forcing. Due to a specific technique for the treatment of movable lateral boundaries, the model is able to simulate efficiently dry up and flooding processes within the lagoon. Firstly, a model calibration was performed by comparing the results of the model, forced using tides and ECMWF atmospheric pressure and wind fields, with observations collected for a set of 33 mareographic stations uniformly distributed in the Adriatic Sea and in the Lagoon of Venice. A second numerical experiment was then carried out by considering only the tidal forcing. Through a comparison between the results obtained in the two experiments it was possible to assess the reliability of the estimated parameter through the composite forcing. Model results were then verified by comparing simulated amplitude and phase of each tidal constituent as well as tidal velocities simulated at the inlets of the lagoon and in the Northern Adriatic Sea with the corresponding observed values. The model accurately reproduces the observed harmonics: mean amplitude differences rarely exceed 1 cm, while phase errors are commonly confined below 15°. Semidiurnal and diurnal currents were correctly reproduced in the northern basin and a good agreement was obtained with measurements carried out at the lagoon inlets. On this basis, the outcomes of the hydrodynamic model were analyzed in order to investigate: (i) small-scale coastal circulation features observed at the interface between the adjoining basins, which consist often of vortical dipoles connected with the tidal flow of Adriatic water entering and leaving the Lagoon of Venice and with along-shore current fields connected with specific wind patterns; (ii) residual oscillations, which are often connected to meteorological forcing over the basin. In particular, it emerges that small-scale vortical features generated near the lagoon inlet can be efficiently transported toward the open sea, thus contributing to the water exchange between the two marine regions, and a realistic representation of observed residual oscillations in the area would require a very detailed knowledge of atmospheric as well as remote oceanic forcing.     

Establishing the wave climate influence on the morphodynamics of a coastal lagoon inlet

The morphologic changes in estuaries and coastal lagoons are very complex and constitute a challenging task in coastal research. The bathymetric changes result from the combined action of tides, waves, rivers discharge and wind stress in the area of interest. Additionally, an accurate knowledge of the sediment transport is essential to achieve a good morphological characterization. This work establishes the influence of the wave climate on the morphodynamics of the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet by analysing the numerical results of the morphodynamic modelling system MORSYS2D. The numerical simulations considered a realistic coupled forcing of tidal currents and waves. The computed sediment fluxes and bathymetric changes are analysed and compared with the erosion and accretion trends obtained from the numerical simulations forced only by tidal currents, in order to establish the wave climate influence. The final bathymetry and the corresponding changes are compared with bathymetric data collected through surveys. It is concluded that: (a) the morphodynamics of the study area is dominated by the wave regime in the lagoon inlet and nearshore areas, while in the inner areas is tidally dominated; and (b) the inclusion of the wave regime forcing constitutes an improvement in order to accurately reproduce the local morphodynamics.     

Numerical model studies on the generation and dissipation of the diurnal coastal-trapped waves over the Sakhalin shelf in the Sea of Okhotsk

To clarify the generation and dissipation mechanisms of diurnal coastal-trapped waves (CTWs) over the Sakhalin shelf, a series of numerical experiments were conducted using a three-dimensional tidal model of the Okhotsk Sea with density stratification. The tidal model used has good reproduction owing to the careful fitting to the recent observations. The numerical experiments suggested that diurnal CTWs are primarily (~60%) generated by the conversion of tidal energy at the northern corner of the Sakhalin shelf, and further amplified by vorticity generation due to the water column oscillation from Sakhalin Bay and the influence of Kashevarov Bank. From the observations, it was found that diurnal CTWs are effectively dissipated by the strong spin-down due to bottom friction. The conventional turbulent closure model cannot reproduce the observed damping of diurnal CTWs, which raises a caution in modeling the tidal fields in high-latitude regions where diurnal CTWs exist. To resolve this underestimation of the damping, the vertical eddy viscosity was parameterized using its dependence on the observed major axis length of the diurnal tidal current ellipses, which improves the model reproduction on the damping of diurnal CTWs. The model also suggests that the spin-down effects due to friction associated with the sea-ice cover play an important role in the tidal current reduction in the region where diurnal CTWs exist, as the observations suggested.     

An enhanced depth-averaged tidal model for morphological studies in the presence of rotary currents

A simple and efficient method to improve morphological predictions using depth-averaged tidal models is presented. The method includes the contribution of secondary flows in sediment transport using the computed flow field from a depth-averaged model. The method has been validated for a case study using the 3D POLCOMS model and ADCP data. The enhanced depth-averaged tidal model along with the SWAN wave model are applied to morphological prediction around the Lleyn Peninsula and Bardsey Island as a case study in the Irish Sea. Due to the presence of a headland in this area two asymmetrical tidal eddies are developed in which the cyclonic eddy is stronger as a result of Coriolis effects. The results show that the enhanced model can effectively predict formation of sand banks at the centre of cyclonic eddies, while the depth-averaged model, due to its inability to accommodate secondary flow, is inadequate in this respect.