Modeling wave-mud interaction on the central chenier-plain coast,western Louisiana Shelf,USA

The strong coupling between hydrodynamics and seafloors on shallow muddy shelves, and resulting bed reworking, have been extensively documented. On these shelves, spectral wave transformation is driven by a complex combination of forcing mechanisms that include nonlinear wave interactions and wave energy dissipation induced by fluid-mud at a range of frequencies. Wave-mud interaction is investigated herein by using a previously validated nonlinear spectral wave model and observations of waves and near-bed conditions on a mildly-sloping seafloor off the muddy central chenier-plain coast, western Louisiana Shelf, United States. Measurements were made along a cross-shelf transect spanning 1 km between 4 and 3 m water depths. The high-resolution observations of waves and near-bed conditions suggest presence of a fluid mud layer with thickness sometimes exceeding 10 cm under strong long wave action (1 meter wave height with 7 s peak period at 4 meter depth). Spectral wave transformation is modeled using the stochastic formulation of the nonlinear Mild Slope Equation, modified to account for wave-breaking and mud-induced dissipation. The model is used in an inverse manner in order to estimate the viscosity of the fluid mud layer, which is a key parameter controlling mud-induced wave dissipation but complicated to measure in the field during major wave events. Estimated kinematic viscosities vary between 10⁻⁴-10⁻³ m²/s. Combining these results of the wave model simulations with in-depth analysis of near-bed conditions and boundary layer modeling allows for a detailed investigation of the interaction of nonlinear wave propagation and mud characteristics. The results indicate that mud-induced dissipation is most efficient when the wave-induced resuspensions of concentrations  > 10 g/L settle due to relatively small bottom stresses to form a fluid mud layer that is not as thin and viscous as a consolidated seafloor in absence of wave action but also not as thick and soft as a near-bed high concentration layer that forms during strong wave action.     

Experimental study of interactions between multi-directional focused wave and vertical circular cylinder,part II: Wave force

We describe experiments with multi-directional focused waves interacted with a vertical circular cylinder in a 3D wave basin. The focus of this study is on the run-up of multi-directional focused waves, wave forces, and wave pressures on the cylinder. Part I, the study on wave run-up, has already been presented by Li et al. (2012). In this paper, the analysis of the wave force on the vertical cylinder is presented.In this experiment, a cylinder with 0.25 m in diameter was adopted and different wave parameters, such as focused wave amplitude, peak frequency, frequency bandwidth and directional spreading index, are considered. The model scale k_pa (k_p is the wave number corresponding to peak frequency, a is the radium of the cylinder) varies from 0.32 to 0.65. The maximum forces of multi-directional focused wave on cylinder were measured and investigated. The results showed that the wave parameters have a significant influence on the wave force, and that the spatial profile of the surface of multi-directional focused wave can also affect its force on the cylinder, which is different from two-dimensional wave. In addition, the ‘secondary loading cycle’ phenomenon was also observed and discussed. In our experiments, the ‘secondary loading cycles’ occur when kA > 0.36 for all cases. While in some referred small scale experiments, the secondary load cycles are observed even for kA = 0.2, when the waves are longer enough. To larger model scale, the pronounced secondary load cycle occurs with larger wave steepness waves.     

Wave climate scatter performance of a cycloidal wave energy converter

A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power P_W = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of P_G = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate.     

The influence of sea state on formation speed of alongshore variability in surf zone sand bars

The formation time of alongshore morphological variability in surf zone sand bars has long been known to differ from one beach to the other and from one post-storm period to another. Here we investigate whether the type of sea state, i.e. distant swell waves or locally generated short period wind sea, affects the formation time of the emerging alongshore topographic variability.A numerical modeling approach is used to examine the emergence of alongshore variability under different shore-normal wave forcing. A research version of Delft3D, operating on the time-scale of wave groups, is applied to a schematised bathymetry with a single bar. The model is then used to investigate several wave scenarios, examining the impact of peak period, frequency spread and directional spread on the formation time of alongshore variability.Results show that an increase in wave period has a large effect, changing the formation time up to O (250%) in case the wave period is changed from a representative value for the Dutch coast (T_p ~ 5–6 s) to an Australian South East coast value (T_p ~ 10–12 s). In contrast, modifications in the directional and frequency spread of the wave field result only in a minor change in the formation time.Examination of hydrodynamics and potential sediment transport shows that the variations in formation time are primarily related to changes in the magnitude of the time-averaged flow conditions. Variations in the magnitude of very low frequency (f < 0.004 Hz) or infragravity (0.004 < f < 0.04 Hz) surf zone flow velocities do not affect the mean sediment transport capacity. Consequently the formation speed of patterns is primarily governed by positive feedback between mean flow and morphology, and low frequency flow fluctuations are of minor importance.These findings indicate that the development of alongshore topographic variability may be faster at swell dominated open coasts, primarily due to the occurrence of longer period swell. Also, at a given site, the arrival of a long wave period swell after a storm can accelerate the emergence of variability.     

Offshore wind farm impacts on surface waves and circulation in Eastern Lake Ontario

A coupled wave and hydrodynamic model was applied to the Kingston Basin of eastern Lake Ontario, a region with bathymetric variability due to channels and shoals, to assess the potential impacts on surface waves and wind-driven circulation of an offshore wind farm. The model was used to simulate a series of storm events with time-varying wind forcing and validated against wave, current and water level observations. The wind farm was simulated by adding semi-permeable structures in the surface wave model to represent the turbine monopiles, and by adding an energy loss term to the fluid momentum equations in the hydrodynamic model to represent the added drag of the monopiles on the flow. The results suggest that the wind farm would have a small influence on waves and circulation throughout the wind farm area, with spatial variability due to focussing of wave energy and re-direction of the flow. Overall, the results indicate that the wave height in coastal areas will be minimally affected with changes in significant wave height predicted to be < 3%. Larger changes to the strength of circulation occur inside the wind farm region with localized changes in current magnitude of up to 8 cm s^− 1. The results of this study may help to understand the impacts of future offshore wind farms and other offshore structures in the Great Lakes.     

Fluid flow reconstruction in karstified Panormide platform limestones (north-central Sicily): Implications for hydrocarbon prospectivity in the Sicilian fold and thrust belt

Diagenetic analysis based on field and petrographic observations, isotope and microthermometric data was used to reconstruct the fluid flow history of the Cretaceous shallow water limestones from the Panormide platform exposed in north-central Sicily. Analysis focused on diagenetic products in cavities and dissolution enlarged fractures of the karstified limestones that occur just below a regional unconformity. The fluid flow history could be broken down into five stages that were linked to the kinematic and burial history of the region. (1) Petrography (zoned cathodoluminescence and speleothem textures) and stable isotopes (6.5 < δ¹⁸O_V-PDB < ?3.5‰ and 0 < δ¹³C_V-PDB < ?14‰) indicate that the earliest calcite phase was associated with karstification during emergence of the platform. Limestone dissolution at this stage is important with regard to possible reservoir creation in the Panormide palaeogeographic domain. (2) Fine-grained micrite sedimentation, dated as latest Cretaceous by nannopalaeontology and its ⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr isotope ratio (0.7078), marks replacement by marine fluids during subsequent submergence of the karstified platform. (3) The following calcite cement was still precipitated by marine-derived fluids (?7.0 < δ¹⁸O_V-PDB < ?5.0‰ and ?3.0 < δ¹³C_V-PDB < 0.5‰/T_m = ?2 to ?5 °C), but at increasingly higher temperatures (T_h = 60–120 °C). This has been interpreted as precipitation during Oligocene foredeep burial. (4) Hot (T_h = 130–180 °C), low saline (T_m < ?2.5 °C) fluids with increasingly higher calculated δ¹⁸O_SMOW signatures (+6 to +14‰) subsequently invaded the karst system. These fluids most likely migrated during fold and thrust belt development. The low salinity and relatively high δ¹⁸O_SMOW signatures of the fluids are interpreted to be the result of clay dewatering reactions. The presence of bitumen and associated fluorite with hydrocarbon inclusions at this stage in the paragenesis constrains the timing of oil migration in the region. (5) Finally, high saline fluids with elevated ⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr (0.7095–0.7105) signatures invaded the karst system. This last fluid flow event was possibly coeval with localized dolomitization and calcite cementation along high-angle faults of Pliocene age, as suggested by identical radiogenic signatures of these diagenetic products.     

Geometry and migration characteristics of bedforms under waves and currents: Part 2: Ripples superimposed on sandwaves

This paper presents results of a series of detailed measurements of geometric and migrating characteristics of ripples superimposed upon sandwaves under the action of combined waves and currents. Velocity measurements within the fluid, surface wave characteristics and 3D mapping of the bottom were recorded with an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV), an acoustic water level sensor and a 32 composite element array of sub-aquatic acoustic sensors, respectively. Bottom records were statistically analyzed to obtain height, length and migration rates of ripples. Experiments examined ripple heights and wavelengths for the mobility factors (as defined in Eq. (4)) and the Reynolds wave number within the ranges 10 < ψ < 88 and 16 × 10³ < Re_w < 5 × 10⁵, respectively. Measured values were compared with laboratory and field data together with semi-empirical and analytical formulae from the literature. Good correlation was obtained when plotting measured ripple length and length in dimensionless form as a function of the Reynolds wave number Re_w. Under a given hydraulic condition, it was observed that ripples with different geometric characteristics may coexist at different locations over the sandwave. Ripple steepness is presented as a function of the Shields parameter although characterized with rather large scatter. Finally, average ripple migration speed is presented as a function of the Shields parameter and the mobility number.     

Mode-1 internal tides in the western North Atlantic Ocean

Mode-1 internal tides were observed the western North Atlantic using an ocean acoustic tomography array deployed in 1991–1992 centered on 25°N, 66°W. The pentagonal array, 700-km across, acted as an antenna for mode-1 internal-tides. Coherent internal-tide waves with O(1 m) displacements were observed traveling in several directions. Although the internal tides of the region were relatively quiescent, they were essentially phase locked over the 200–300 day data record lengths. Both semidiurnal and diurnal internal waves were detected, with wavenumbers consistent with those calculated from hydrographic data. The M₂ internal-tide energy flux was estimated to be about 70 W m⁻¹, suggesting that mode-1 waves radiate 0.2 GW of energy, with large uncertainty, from the Caribbean island chain at this frequency. A global tidal model (TPXO 5) suggested that 1–2 GW is lost from the M₂ barotropic tide over this region, but the precise value was uncertain because the complicated topography makes the calculation problematic. In any case, significant conversion of barotropic to baroclinic tidal energy does not occur in the western North Atlantic basin. It is apparent, however, that mode-1 internal tides have very weak decay and retain their coherence over great distances, so that ocean basins may be filled up with such waves. Observed diurnal amplitudes were an order of magnitude larger than expected. The amplitude and phase variations of the K₁ and O₁ constituents observed over the tomography array were consistent with the theoretical solutions for standing internal waves near their turning latitude. The energy densities of the resonant diurnal internal waves were roughly twice those of the barotropic tide at those frequencies.     

Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow

New experiments were carried out in the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel of WL|Delft Hydraulics (scale 1:1) using asymmetric 2nd-order Stokes waves. The main aim was to gain a better understanding of size-selective sediment transport processes under oscillatory plane-bed/sheet-flow conditions. The new data show that for uniform sand sizes between 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm, measured net transport rates are hardly affected by the grain size and are proportional to the third-order velocity moment. However for finer grains (D = 0.13 mm) net sand transport rates change from the ‘onshore’ direction into the ‘offshore’ direction in the high velocity range. A new measuring technique for sediment concentrations, based on the measurement of electro-resistance (see [McLean, S.R., Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M. and Hassan, W.N.M., 2001. Sediment transport measurements within the sheet flow layer under waves and currents. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ISSN 0733-950X]), was developed further for the improved measurement of sediment dynamics inside the sheet-flow layer. This technique enabled the measurements of particle velocities during the complete wave cycle. It is observed that for long period waves (T = 12.0 s), time-dependent concentrations inside the sheet-flow layer are nearly in phase with the time-dependent flow velocities. As the wave period decreases, the sediment entrainment from the bed as well as the deposition process back to the bed lags behind the wave motion more and more. The new data show that size-gradation has almost no effect on the net total transport rates, provided the grain sizes of the sand mixture are in the range of 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm. However, if very fine grains (D = 0.13 mm) are present in the mixture, net total transport rates of graded sand are generally reduced in comparison with uniform sand with the same D₅₀. The transport rates of individual size fractions of a mixture are strongly influenced by the presence of other fractions in a mixture. Fine particles in sand mixtures are relatively less transported than in that uniform sand case, while the opposite occurs for coarse fractions in a mixture. The relative contribution of the coarse grains to the net total transport is therefore larger than would be expected based on their volume proportion in the original sand mixture. This partial transport behaviour is opposite to what is generally observed in uni-directional (e.g. river) flows. This is caused by vertical sorting of grain sizes in the upper bed layer and in the sheet flow and suspension layers. Kinematic sorting is believed to be responsible for the development of a coarse surface layer on top of a relatively fine sub-layer, providing in this way a relatively large flow exposure for the coarser sizes. Furthermore fine grains are suspended more easily than coarse grains to higher elevations in the flow where they are subject to increasing phase-lag effects (settling lags). The latter also leads to reduced net transport rates of these finer sizes.     

The effect of hydrodynamics on shell orientation and population density of Pinna nobilis in the Gulf of Oristano (Sardinia,Italy)

Pinna nobilis is the largest endemic bivalve of the Mediterranean Sea, declared protected since 1992. Although hydrodynamic stress induced by waves is known to influence density, size and orientation of P. nobilis, the effect of other hydrological features is unknown. This paper considers a P. nobilis population living within a Posidonia oceanica meadow in the Gulf of Oristano (Sardinia, Italy). We hypothesize that spatial differences in density and orientation of P. nobilis may be related to significant wave height (H_S), wave direction (D_W), bottom current direction (D_BC) and bottom current speed (S_BC). A population of P. nobilis was investigated at different sites and its distribution was correlated to hydrodynamics by means of a numerical modeling approach. The spatial distribution was patchy, with a density of 0.06–6.7 ind. 100 m^− 2. A non-uniform distribution of shell orientations (O_S) was demonstrated in 4 sites out of 6. D_BC and S_BC were the main factors affecting O_S, while waves had little influence. A S_BC of 0.07 m s^− 1 appears to be the threshold for inducing specimen directionality with shells aligned to the current and the ventral side exposed to the flow. This suggests that feeding strategy is a key factor in determining O_S, in addition to drag minimization. We also highlighted the role of adjacent lagoons in supporting high densities as a result of high food availability. These findings demonstrate the usefulness of modeling techniques in explaining the spatial distribution pattern of P. nobilis and in contributing to our knowledge of its ecological traits.     

Surface wave predictions in weakly nonlinear directional seas

We have employed laboratory and numerical experiments in order to investigate propagation of waves in both long and short-crested wave fields in deep water. For long-crested waves with steepness, ϵ = k_ca_c = 0.1 (a fairly extreme case), reliable prediction can be performed with the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation up to about 40 characteristic wavelengths. For short-crested waves the accuracy of prediction is strongly reduced with increasing directional spread.     

Observations of surfzone alongshore pressure gradients onshore of an ebb-tidal delta

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10^− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.     

Focused wave evolution using linear and second order wavemaker theory

In this paper, the evolution of focused waves using different paddle displacements (piston type) under laboratory conditions is presented. It is well known that in intermediate water depths, linear paddle displacements will generate spurious, free, sub and super harmonics. Thus, a second order correction to suppress these spurious free sub and super harmonics was used to generate the focused waves. The focused waves were generated in the laboratory using a linear superimposition principle, in which the wave paddle displacement is derived based on the sum of a number of sinusoidal components at discrete frequencies, whose phases are accordingly set to focus at a particular location. For this method of generation, the second order wave maker theory proposed by Schäffer [24] can be easily adopted and was used in the present study. Two different centre frequencies (f_c = 0.68 Hz and 1.08 Hz) with three different bandwidth ratios (Δf/f_c = 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0) were tested in a constant water depth, to consider both narrow and broadband spectra. These test cases correspond to wave focusing packets propagating in intermediate and deep water regions. Further, for each wave packet, two different amplitudes were considered in order to analyze non-breaking and breaking cases. Thus, by systematically generating the wave packets using the linear and second order paddle displacements, the analysis was carried out for the spectral and temporal evolution of selected long waves. The temporal evolution of the selected harmonics was analyzed using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT), to show the propagation of the spurious, free, long waves. Further, the variations in energy for the lower, higher and primary frequency ranges are reported for different wave paddle displacements. The analysis revealed that for the broadband spectrum the differences are more pronounced when using linear paddle displacements. We have also noticed a shift in focusing/breaking location and time (i.e. premature) due to the increase in crest height using linear displacements. The experiment data used in this paper has been provided as a supplementary, which can be used to validate the numerical models.     

Total organic and inorganic carbon exchange through the Strait of Gibraltar in September 1997

The total organic carbon (TOC) and total inorganic carbon (C_T) exchange between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea was studied in the Strait of Gibraltar in September 1997. Samples were taken at eight stations from western and eastern entrances of the Strait and at the middle of the Strait (Tarifa Narrows). TOC was analyzed by a high-temperature catalytic oxidation method, and C_T was calculated from alkalinity–pH_T pairs and appropriate thermodynamic relationships. The results are used in a two-layer model of water mass exchange through the Strait, which includes the Atlantic inflow, the Mediterranean outflow and the interface layer in between. Our observations show a decrease of TOC and an increase of C_T concentrations from the surface to the bottom: 71–132 μM C and 2068–2150 μmol kg⁻¹ in the Surface Atlantic Water, 74–95 μM C and 2119–2148 μmol kg⁻¹ in the North Atlantic Central Water, 63–116 μM C and 2123–2312 μmol kg⁻¹ in the interface layer, and 61–78 μM C and 2307–2325 μmol kg⁻¹ in the Mediterranean waters. However, within the Mediterranean outflow, we found that the concentrations of carbon were higher at the western side of the Strait (75–78 μM C, 2068–2318 μmol kg⁻¹) than at the eastern side (61–69 μM C, 2082–2324 μmol kg⁻¹). This difference is due to the mixing between the Atlantic inflow and the Mediterranean outflow on the west of the Strait, which results in a flux of organic carbon from the inflow to the outflow and an opposite flux of inorganic carbon. We estimate that the TOC input from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea through the Strait of Gibraltar varies from (0.97±0.8)10⁴ to (1.81±0.90)10⁴ mol C s⁻¹ (0.3×10¹² to 0.56×10¹² mol C yr⁻¹), while outflow of inorganic carbon ranges from (12.5±0.4)10⁴ to (15.6±0.4)10⁴ mol C s⁻¹ (3.99–4.90×10¹² mol C yr⁻¹). The high variability of carbon exchange within the Strait is due to the variability of vertical mixing between inflow and outflow along the Strait. The prevalence of organic carbon inflow and inorganic carbon outflow shows the Mediterranean Sea to be a basin of active remineralization of organic material.     

Hydrodynamic performance of double rows of piles suspending horizontal c shaped bars

The wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation of the double rows of vertical piles suspending horizontal steel C shaped bars are experimentally and theoretically studied under normal regular waves. Different wave and structural parameters are investigated e.g. the wave length, the C shaped bars draft and spacing, the supporting piles diameter and spacing, and the space between the double rows. Also, the theoretical model based on an eigenfunction expansion method is developed to study the hydrodynamic breakwater performance. In order to examine the validity of the theoretical model, the theoretical results are compared with the experimental and theoretical results obtained by different authors. Comparison between experiments and predictions showed that theoretical model provides a good estimate to the different hydrodynamic coefficients when the friction factors of the upper and the lower parts are f_U = 1.5 and f_L = 0.75. The present breakwater physical model gives efficiency near other similar systems of different shapes.     

Persian Gulf response to a wintertime shamal wind event

The results from a～1 km resolution HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM), forced by 1/2° Navy Operational Global Atmospheric Prediction System (NOGAPS) atmospheric data, were used in order to study the dynamic response of the Persian Gulf to wintertime shamal forcing. Shamal winds are strong northwesterly winds that occur in the Persian Gulf area behind southeast moving cold fronts. The period from 20 November to 5 December 2004 included a well defined shamal event that lasted 4–5 days. In addition to strong winds (16 m s^?1) the winter shamal also brought cold dry air (T_a=20 °C, q_a=10 g kg^?1) which led to a net heat loss in excess of 1000 W m^?2 by increasing the latent heat flux. This resulted in SST cooling of up to 10 °C most notably in the northern and shallower shelf regions. A sensitivity experiment with a constant specific humidity of q_a=15 g kg^?1 confirmed that about 38% of net heat loss was due to the air–sea humidity differences. The time integral of SST cooling closely followed the air–sea heat loss, indicating an approximate one-dimensional vertical heat balance. It was found that the shamal induced convective vertical mixing provided a direct mechanism for the erosion of stratification and deepening of the mixed layer by 30 m. The strong wind not only strengthened the circulation in the entire Persian Gulf but also established a northwestward flowing Iranian Coastal Current (ICC, 25–30 cm s^?1) from the Strait of Hormuz to about 52°E, where it veered offshore. The strongest negative sea level of 25–40 cm was generated in the northernmost portion of the Gulf while the wind setup against the coast of the United Arab Emirates established a positive sea level of 15–30 cm. The transport through the Strait of Hormuz at 56.2°E indicated an enhanced outflow of 0.25 Sv (Sv≡10⁶ m³ s^?1) during 24 November followed by an equivalent inflow on the next day.     

Solitary wave generation dynamics at Luzon Strait

A high resolution modeling study is undertaken, with a 2.5-dimensional nonhydrostatic model, of the generation of internal waves induced by tidal motion over the ridges in Luzon Strait. The model is forced by the barotropic tidal components K1, M2, and O1. These tidal components, along with the initial density field, were extracted from data and models. As the barotropic tide moves over the Luzon Strait sills, there is a conversion of barotropic tidal energy into baroclinic tidal energy. Depressions are generated that propagate towards the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment (ASIAEX) test site on the Chinese continental shelf. Nonlinear effects steepen the depressions, frequency and amplitude dispersion set in, and disintegration into large amplitude solitary waves occurs. The effects of varying the initial density field, tidal component magnitudes, as well as adding a steady background current to represent the occasional excursions of the Kuroshio Current into the strait, are considered.Depressions are generated at each of the two sills in Luzon Strait which radiate away, steepening and evolving into internal solitary wave trains. Baroclinic fluxes of available potential energy, kinetic energy and linear are calculated for various parameter combinations. The solitary wave trains produced in the simulations generally consist of large amplitude wave trains alternating with small amplitude wave trains. During strong tidal flow, Kelvin–Helmholtz type instabilities can develop over the taller double-humped sill. The solitary waves propagating towards the ASIAEX test site have been observed to reach amplitudes of 120–250 m, depending on the tidal strength. ASIAEX observations indicate amplitudes up to 150 m and the Windy Island Experiment (WISE) measurements contain magnitudes over 200 m. The model results yield solitary wave amplitudes of 70–300 m and half widths of 0.60–3.25 km, depending on parameter values. These are in the range of observations. Measurements by Klymak et al. (2006), in the South China Sea, exhibit amplitudes of 170 m, half widths of 3 km and phase speeds of 2.9 m s^?1. Model predictions indicate that the solitary waves making up the wave packet each experience different background currents with strong near surface shear.The energy in the leading soliton of the large amplitude wave trains ranges between 1.8 and 9.0 GJ m^?1. The smaller value, produced using barotropic tidal currents based on the Oregon State University data base, is the same as the energy estimated to be in a solitary wave observed by Klymak et al. (2006). Estimates of the conversion of barotropic tidal energy into radiating internal wave energy yield conversion rates ranging between 3.6% and 8.3%.     

A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 1: Wave-current–turbulence interaction parameters for the open ocean based on traditional parameterizations

Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift U_ss, volume Stokes transport T_S, a wave breaking height scale H_swg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φ_oc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φ_oc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of T_S is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of U_ss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, U_ss ≃ 0.013U₁₀, where U₁₀ is the wind speed at 10 m height.