Predicting significant wave height off the northeast coast of the United States

To develop a simple method to predict the significant wave height, we analyze 18 years of hourly observations from 12 different buoys that are off the northeast coast of the United States. Water depths ranged from 19 to 4427 m for these moored buoys. We find that, on average, all of these buoys exhibit a region of constant wave height for 10-m wind speeds between 0 and 4 m s⁻¹. That wave height does, however, depend on water depth. For wind speeds above 4 m s^–1, the wave height increases as the square of the wind speed; but the multiplicative factor is again a function of water depth. We synthesize these results in a prediction scheme that yields the significant wave height from simple functions of water depth and 10-m wind speed for wind speeds up to 25 m s^–1.     

斋堂岛东南海域波浪特征及海浪谱分析

利用斋堂岛东南海域2013年至2014年的实测波浪资料,统计分析了本海域波浪特征,为波浪能资源评估提供基本波浪参数。统计结果表明,本海域年平均有效波高为0.60 m,最大波高为5.30 m,平均周期为3.3 s,最大周期为8.3 s,常浪向为E-SE向。本文亦讨论了本海域波高分布和波高与周期的关系,并基于JONSWAP谱谱型的基本结构,拟合得到适用于本海域的海浪谱谱型,可为海洋能发电装置的布设及相应的工程建设提供一定的参考。     

Upwelling off the coast of Peru

Geographical distributions of upwelling centers off the coast of Peru are studied on the basis of monthly mean wind data during 17 years from 1939 through 1955. Three remarkable upwelling centers are found near 5°S, 11°S and 15°S, from the analyses. With regard to the negative surface divergence found in the offing of Huacho-Callao (near 11°S) in August, it is pointed out that a local high pressure cell is generated in the atmosphere.     

Wave hindcasting off the coast of Portugal

A study was conducted applying a second-generation wave model to predictions in coastal zones. The model was calibrated with wave measurements conducted off the Portuguese coast, for a period of 6 months. The wind fields used in the calculation were supplied by the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMRWF). The calibrated model allows good predictions of significant wave height. Satisfactory comparisons have been made with predictions of the WAM model     

Continental shelf waves off the Fukushima coast

Numerical experiments are performed on shelf waves forced by wind stress with a spectral peak around a period of 100 hr. Water depth in the numerical model is a function of offshore distance only and resembles a bathymetric profile off the Fukushima coast. A pair of vortices alined in the offshore direction and a large vortex are reproduced and they propagate southward outside the forced region. Judging from the propagation speed, the former corresponds to the second-mode and the latter to the first-mode shelf waves. In the forced region, the propagation speed of a trough and a ridge is slow, 3–5km hr^–1. These propagation characteristics reproduce those observed along the Fukushima coast and this propagation speed corresponds to that of second-and third-mode shelf waves. Thus, it is concluded that the periodical current fluctuations observed in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are due to motions associated with the second-and third-mode shelf waves.     

Continental shelf waves off the Fukushima coast

Past observations and theories have indicated the importance of the constitution of the lowest-mode of shelf waves to the velocity field. However, significant contributions of the higher mode waves to current velocity fluctuations in the vicinity of the coast are suggested in observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast in Pt. I of this study (Kubota et al., 1981). To understand the importance of the higher modes, the generation of shelf waves is investigated theoretically by two methods. First, the generation of long shelf waves by monochromatic forcing is examined, and it is concluded that near the coast the second mode's contribution to the longshore velocity is the largest for the Fukushima coast. Second, the response of shelf waves to broad-band forcing is investigated by taking the dispersive characteristics of shelf waves into consideration. It is concluded that shelf waves with zero group velocity are selectively excited if the forcing has a broad-band spectrum. According to observational results obtained along the Fukushima coast, the wind spectrum has a broad peak at about 100 hours (Kubota et al., 1981). Since the third mode of shelf waves has zero group velocity around the period of 100 hours, the third mode can be selectively generated off the Fukushima coast. From this it is suggested that the Fukushima coast is in the forced region and that observed current fluctuations are motions associated with the second- and third-mode shelf waves.     

Dynamics of pelagic variables in two contrasting coastal systems in the western Hokkaido coast off Otaru port,Japan

Human impact on adjacent coastal waters, leading to alteration in nutritional environment and hence affecting phytoplankton biomass (Chlorophyll a), will probably be enhanced by the nearby presence of ports. The main goal of this study is to assess the influence of nearby presence of port on phytoplankton biomass build-up and the physical–chemical environmental characteristics in two contrasting coastal systems (Otaru port, S-IN and an exposed coastal area, S-OUT) in the western Hokkaido coast off Otaru port, Japan. Sampling was conducted on “bi-weekly and monthly” basis during the period of September 2006–December 2007 and data comprising 11 pelagic variables were obtained. In most instance, phytoplankton biomass, nutrients' (NH₄, NO₃, PO₄, and Si(OH)₄) concentrations and nutrients' molar ratios were higher at the Otaru port location. Physical parameters (temperature, salinity, hydrogen ion concentration (pH), photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) and dissolved oxygen, (DO)) were not significantly different (P > 0.05) between the two locations. With the exception of salinity, pH and DIC, all variables measured showed significant variation (P < 0.05) with season. While the coefficient of variation (CV) of physical parameters and phytoplankton biomass were relatively higher in Otaru port location (S-IN), the exposed coastal location (S-OUT) showed a higher variation in chemical parameters. Other variables showed different patterns between the two locations. We conclude that ports, due to its activities and restricted circulation favour high nutrient loading and phytoplankton biomass build-up in adjacent coastal systems, thus, suggesting the need for continuous field observation data in order to advance our knowledge on possible future human impact on coastal environment and the need to monitor and control port activities.     

Demersal communities off the west coast of South Africa

To describe demersal communities off the west coast of South Africa, collections of all species of fish, cephalopods and crustaceans made during four cruises in the area during January and July have been analysed. Hierarchical classification methods were employed to determine species and sample associations. The results showed that the species could be split into two main groups, the first containing Merluccius paradoxus (the dominant species both in abundance and frequency of occurrence) and other species normally found in deep (> 380 m) water. The second group is represented by species that live on the continental shelf, M. capensis being the most abundant. The boundary separating the deep-sea community from that of the shelf follows approximately the 385-m isobath. Seasonal variations in the number of main associations as well as in their spatial location are documented.     

Pollen analysis of marine sediments off the Washington coast

Pollen diagrams of postglacial sediments from the continental terrace off the Washington coast reveal trends similar to those observed in continental sections of postglacial age from the Pacific Northwest and appear sufficient for correlation with terrestrial deposits. The absolute pollen frequency (APF) varies from 3000 to 15000 grains/g. Maximum number of pollen grains (500–800/cm²/year) accumulated during the Hypsithermal.     

Characteristics of storm waves off the Mediterranean coast of Israel

A two-year series of directional wave measurement off the Eastern Mediterranean coast of Israel reveals an abundance of high storm waves. Some of these waves have significant height in excess of 5 meters and periods as long as 15 sec.The evolution of the storm waves is described and related to the growth and paths of the storm fronts in Mid-Mediterranean. Shorter-period waves are found to always lead the arrival of longer-period swell. This characteristic is explained by a short decay distance and/or a high migration velocity of the storm front.The scatter plot of significant wave height vs period for the recorded events of each storm describes an open-loop time sequence. The difference in period between that of the peak height event and the period of a fully arisen sea of the same height is found to be indicative of the true decay distance the waves have travelled.     

Estimation of insolation over the Pacific Ocean off the Sanriku coast

Surface solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean off the Sanriku coast has been estimated using Visible and Infrared Spin Scan Radiometer data supplied by the Geostationary Meteorological Satellite 5 for September, 1996 to June, 1997, when the Ocean Color and Temperature Scanner was functioning. The hourly and daily insolation is estimated with a spatial resolution of 0.01-degree grid. Thein situ surface short wave radiation obtained by the research vessel,Kofu-Maru belonging to the Japan Meteorological Agency is used for validation of the estimated insolation. It is shown that the estimated hourly and daily insolation has an rms (root mean square) error of 17.05% and 8.13%, respectively, which are the ratios between the rms error (W/m²) and the mean insolation (W/m²).     

Observation of the anticyclonic eddy formation off the Black Sea coast

An anticyclonic eddy with a horizontal dimension of 20 km travelling north-westwards at a speed of 10 cm/s has been found during an experiment carried out off the Black Sea coast. Dynamic instability owing to horizontal velocity shear could be the reason for its origin. The eddy's passage favours the development of shear instability and the generation of short-period internal waves.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Poleward shift of the coastal upwelling region off the California coast

Yoshida (1967) pointed out that the coastal upwelling region may not coincide with the intense longshore wind region and shift poleward. In order to clarify this poleward shift from the existing data, the monthly mean distributions of the offshore Ekman transport and the coastal upwelling intensity are estimated along the California coast from U. S. Daily Weather Maps and from the CCOFI data in 1949, respectively. The results show that the center of the coastal upwelling region is generally shifted to the north from the position of the maximum offshore Ekman transport. The detailed discussions are given for the case of August 1949 when the shift is seen most clearly.     

琼东沿岸泥质沉积常量元素地球化学特征

对南海北部陆架琼东沿岸泥质区$20孔进行了岩性、粒度和常量元素分析,初步探讨了该泥质区常量元素地球化学特征.S20孔岩性较均一,主要为黏土质粉砂,研究区受相对单一而稳定的水动力条件控制.常量元素含量变化符合“元素的粒度控制律”,R型因子分析结果表明,第一因子P2O5,MnO,TiO2,A12O3,Fe2O3和K2O等的...     

Continental shelf waves off the fukushima coast Part I: Observations

Current records obtained in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are analyzed. The existence of periodical current fluctuations whose period is about 100 hours and whose amplitude is as large as 15–25cm s^–1 is recognized. Auto-spectral analyses are made also for sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind records. Each spectrum has significant peaks at the similar period to the current spectrum. The wind spectrum has a broad peak compared with the current. The periodical current fluctuations propagate southward with speed of 3–5 km h^–1. These propagation speeds seem to correspond to those of the second-and third-mode shelf waves.     

Winter counter-wind currents off the southeastern China coast: A review

This review covers the discovery and studies of the year-round northeastward currents off the southeastern China coast, paying special attention to its upwind characteristic in winter, mainly focusing on work by Chinese oceanographers. This current system is a prominent and unique phenomenon in the shelf circulation of the world ocean. The general features of the current system are summarized. The evidence for the existence and the variation of the three parts of the currents—the South China Sea Warm Current, the Taiwan Strait Warm Current and the Taiwan Warm Current—are separately elucidated. The formation mechanisms of the current as a whole are explained using dynamic analysis and numerical simulation results. Some suggestions for further studies are also made.     

Erratic continental rocks on volcanic seamounts off the US west coast

Sampling of volcanic seamounts with dredges and the remotely operated vehicle Tiburon recovered erratic rocks in surprising abundance as far as 500km offshore of the US West coast. The erratics usually have continental lithologies and appear to have been weathered in nearshore environments. They are probably transported by kelp holdfasts, drift logs, and pinnipeds to the seamounts, where they accumulate over time. The erratics are concentrated as lag deposits and kept from becoming buried in sediment by currents that sweep the seamounts. The erratics often have thinner manganese-oxide crusts than rocks of the seamounts because they were delivered to the seafloor more recently and manganese-oxide crusts precipitate over time. The thinner crusts make erratics easier to collect. While most of the erratics clearly did not originate by the volcanic processes that formed the seamounts, careful evaluation of some is necessary to distinguish them as erratics. Failure to recognize the presence of erratics may result in unrealistically complex interpretations of regional geology.     

Eddy-induced cross-shelf phytoplankton transport along the downwelling coast off Western Australia

Along the downwelling coast off Western Australia, late-autumn/early-winter chlorophyll a blooms are observed on the continental shelf south of Shark Bay (26°S), in contrast with summer blooms in the north. The late-autumn/early-winter blooms are in phase with seasonal strengthening of the Leeuwin Current and its eddy field. Anticyclonic eddies entrain the high phytoplankton biomass waters from the shelf and transport offshore into the oligotrophic, subtropical marine environment, as revealed by coalescing the finite-size Lyapunov exponent (FSLE) of the surface geostrophic flow field and the satellite chlorophyll a images.