Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

Spatial variability of factors influencing coastal change in the Western Canadian Arctic

Coastal change in the western Canadian Arctic is influenced by coastal morphology, relative sea-level trend and sea-ice and storm climates. The spatial variability of these factors tends to follow general east–west trends suggesting similar trends in coastal erosion hazard, processes and rates of coastal change. The spatial variability in the causes of coastal change is examined in the communities of Tuktoyaktuk, Sachs Harbour, Holman and Kugluktuk.     

Stability of an artificially nourished beach,Balaena Bay,Wellington Harbour,New Zealand

Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity.     

厦门港水动力因素低频波动特征及其机制分析

本文根据历史水文气象资料，用条件谱分析方法，分析了厦门港水动力因素低频波动特征并探讨其发生机制。结果表明，低频波动清楚地表现为水位和表层盐度的波动。厦门港水位的低频波动主要源自平潭站的水位波动，风的贡献是次要的；条件谱分析了难以描述表层盐度低频波动和九江径流波动的复杂关系。     

Cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport: comparison between predictive formulas and field measurements

The skill of six well-known formulas developed for calculating the longshore sediment transport rate was evaluated in the present study. Formulas proposed by Bijker [Bijker, E.W., 1967. Some considerations about scales for coastal models with movable bed. Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Publication 50, Delft, The Netherlands; Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division, 97 (4) (1971) 687.], Engelund–Hansen [Engelund, F., Hansen, E., 1967. A Monograph On Sediment Transport in Alluvial Streams. Teknisk Forlag, Copenhagen, Denmark], Ackers–White [Journal of Hydraulics Division, 99 (1) (1973) 2041], Bailard–Inman [Journal of Geophysical Research, 86 (C3) (1981) 2035], Van Rijn [Journal of Hydraulic Division, 110 (10) (1984) 1431; 110(11) (1984) 1613; 110(12) (1984) 1733], and Watanabe [Watanabe, A., 1992. Total rate and distribution of longshore sand transport. Proceedings of the 23rd Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 2528–2541] were investigated because they are commonly employed in engineering studies to calculate the time-averaged net sediment transport rate in the surf zone. The predictive capability of these six formulas was examined by comparison to detailed, high-quality data on hydrodynamics and sediment transport from Duck, NC, collected during the DUCK85, SUPERDUCK, and SANDYDUCK field data collection projects. Measured hydrodynamics were employed as much as possible to reduce uncertainties in the calculations, and all formulas were applied with standard coefficient values without calibration to the data sets. Overall, the Van Rijn formula was found to yield the most reliable predictions over the range of swell and storm conditions covered by the field data set. The Engelund–Hansen formula worked reasonably well, although with large scatter for the storm cases, whereas the Bailard–Inman formula systematically overestimated the swell cases and underestimated the storm cases. The formulas by Watanabe and Ackers–White produced satisfactory results for most cases, although the former overestimated the transport rates for swell cases and the latter yielded considerable scatter for storm cases. Finally, the Bijker formula systematically overestimated the transport rates for all cases. It should be pointed out that the coefficient values in most of the employed formulas were based primarily on data from the laboratory or from the river environment. Thus, re-calibration of the coefficient values by reference to field data from the surf zone is expected to improve their predictive capability, although the limited amount of high-quality field data available at present makes it difficult to obtain values that would be applicable to a wide range of wave and beach conditions.     

1973 年以来射阳河口附近海岸蚀淤变化遥感分析

以射阳河口北部扁担港口和射阳河口南部斗龙港口之间的海岸作为研究区,基于1973,1987,2000和2013年四期Landsat影像提取了该岸段岸线,并进行了时空变化分析。结果表明,射阳河口以北的扁担港口—射阳河口岸段仍处于侵蚀状态,呈现侵蚀—淤积—缓慢侵蚀的变化格局,40 a间侵蚀面积为12.6 km2,淤积面积为1.0 km2;射阳河口以南的射阳河口—斗龙港口岸段处于淤积的态势,呈现淤积—快速淤积—缓慢淤积的格局,40 a间淤积的面积为223.1 km2,仅在2000~2013年间该岸段北部出现了侵蚀。结论是虽然射阳河口以南岸段仍总体处于淤积的过程中,但是近年来江苏海岸的侵蚀范围已经扩展到了射阳河口以南,这证明了江苏海岸侵蚀岸段有进一步扩大的趋势。     

The role of coastal setbacks in the context of coastal erosion and climate change

Coastal erosion and storms represent a source of risk for settlements and infrastructure along the coast. At the same time, coastal natural assets, including landscape, are threatened by increasing development mainly driven by tourism. The Mediterranean coast is especially vulnerable to these processes, considering its high biological and cultural diversity. An additional challenge is represented by climate change, as it will force coastal communities to apply more or less drastic adaptation strategies. Coastal setbacks, used to protect coastal communities and infrastructure from storms and erosion, and to preserve coastal habitats and landscapes from degradation, is one of the main instruments suggested by the Protocol on Integrated Coastal Zone Management of the Barcelona Convention, entered into force on the 24 of March 2011. Its implementation has the potential to influence coastal policies in other regions, such as the neighbouring Black Sea.The CONSCIENCE project has formalized concepts and conducted specific studies to provide new tools for coastal erosion management practice. The objective of this paper is to present a synthesis of the research conducted into coastal setbacks for coastal erosion management and climate change adaptation. This is done by analysing the requirement of the Protocol, current processes and management practices in two case study areas (Costa Brava Bays in Spain and Danube Delta, in Romania) and the new challenges posed by climate change.     

洋浦湾南浅滩-深槽-拦门沙近40年冲淤变化分析

本文根据1965、1984、1999和2005的海图对比分析, 探讨了洋浦湾深槽、南浅滩以及口外拦门沙的冲淤变化, 得出: 1)1965—1984年之间, 南浅滩呈淤涨之势, 其西南部最大淤涨距离可达640m; 1984—1999年南浅滩出现了侵蚀, 这主要是由于洋浦湾波浪以及沿岸流的作用引起的; 1999—2005年, 靠近口门附近的南浅滩出现淤涨现象, 主要是由于洋浦湾口门附近水动力的影响作用; 但是目前整体基本上处于稳定的阶段。2)洋浦深槽段呈现出不同程度的西边坡淤涨, 东边坡侵蚀后退, 深泓断面缩窄、淤浅及东偏的趋势, 特别是剖面5的变化比较复杂,值得关注。3)口外拦门沙近几十年来呈现出不同的时空冲淤变化, 但是以淤积为主, 1965—2005年拦门沙总的淤积厚度达到1m左右, 但随着泥沙补给的减少, 这种淤积趋势也随着减少。     

闽粤交界的大埕湾岸滩稳定分析及岸滩防护对策

本文在实地调查的基础上，通过对大埕湾沿岸输沙率变化和岸线形态的分析，综合探讨了该海湾的泥沙来源，沿岸泥沙迁移特征，岸滩冲淤动态以及海岸的演变趋势．结果表明：该湾沿岸带形成了一股朝W向迁移的波生泥沙流，泥沙主要来自诏安湾和宫口湾；该湾海岸除东部沙坝泻湖岸段略有淤伸外，其余岸段均处于侵蚀状态：随着泥沙来源的减少，海岸内凹蚀退是今后岸线调整的自然过程．文中还对大埕湾岸滩的防侵蚀提出了相应的对策建议。     

山东半岛东部滨海沙滩对台风“米雷”的地貌响应

通过对台风“米雷”登陆前后山东半岛东部8个滨海沙滩地形地貌的现场调查以及一年后的重复调查对比分析了沙滩地貌形态的变化,并依据台风期间的风要素计算和评估了台风期间沙滩的沿岸输沙和横向输沙趋势,探讨了在热带风暴发生频次较低的地区沙滩的风暴响应模式和海岸恢复规律。研究结果表明,台风造成横向和纵向输沙量的增加和输沙方向的逆转是造成沙滩形态改变的主要因素,而在米雷登陆前的阶段横向和纵向输沙作用最为强烈。研究区内沙滩的风暴响应模式主要表现为侵蚀陡坎的形成和滩肩或滩面的侵蚀后退。与其他台风频发的区域不同,在研究区台风是一个偶然的强动力事件,因此台风特征对沙滩的风暴响应的作用更加明显。而沙滩剖面形态的作用,仅仅在耗散型沙滩上有所体现。此外,沙滩的走向是控制风暴作用强度的主要因素,并且与沙滩风后恢复密切相关。     

象山港海岸带景观生态风险演变研究

海岸带景观是沿海地区社会经济可持续发展的基础,研究人类活动影响下的海岸带景观生态风险演变对海岸带景观规划与景观资源的合理开发具有重要意义。本文基于1990—2010年间3期的Landsat TM/ETM+遥感数据源,结合野外实地调查,研究了象山港海岸带景观生态风险及其变化趋势。结果表明: (1)20 a间,象山港海岸带景观格局发生显著变化,耕地、海域和林地等景观类型面积呈下降趋势,而建设用地、未利用地和养殖用地不断增加;(2)1990年以来,象山港海岸带景观生态风险等级有不断增高趋势,部分低、较低等级生态风险区演变为中等级以及较高等级;(3)从不同等级生态风险区的空间分布上看,1990年以来海岸带景观低和较低等级生态风险区空间分布在沿海地区减少,而中等、较高和高生态风险区在沿海地区不断形成并向陆侧扩张。从演化速率上看,近10 a的较高和高生态风险区面积增加速率较前10 a显著加快。     

基于遥感的黄河三角洲海岸线变化研究

以黄河三角洲的Landsat TM/ETM+影像(1989~2009年)为数据源,采用遥感与地理信息系统技术,对黄河三角洲的岸线与面积变化进行监测。结果表明:1989年以来,黄河三角洲的岸线形状及长度均发生了较大变化,其中北部的刁口河流路区岸线向内陆蚀退明显;清水沟流路区的岸线整体向海域推进,部分区域有蚀退现象;神仙沟流路区主要为人工海堤,岸线变化不大。黄河三角洲的整体面积在1989~2009年处于增加中,但2006~2009年,面积变化为负值。从淤蚀情况来看,1989~2009年,黄河三角洲的淤蚀强度经历了"和缓-剧烈"的过程。这说明20年来黄河三角洲整体上处于增长发育中,但2006年后三角洲整体上呈现蚀退现象,同时黄河三角洲的淤蚀情况变得比以往更剧烈,意味着更强的海陆交汇作用和岸线变化。黄河的入海流路、水沙量、降水量等是影响三角洲岸线变化的重要因素,而人工堤坝能够在一定程度上维持海岸线的稳定。对黄河三角洲海岸线变化的研究有助于有效地管理和保护区域的社会和生态环境。     

Assessment of aquaculture impact on mangroves of Mahanadi delta (Orissa), East coast of India using remote sensing and GIS

Aquaculture is one of the fastest growing food industries. However, the rapid growth of aquaculture worldwide has resulted in growing concerns about its impact on important ecosystems. The expansion of aquaculture farms in the coastal areas has led to conversion of mangroves, more rapidly. To assess the impact of aquaculture on mangroves, the present study has been undertaken in Mahanadi delta of Orissa, East coast of India which is famous for its distinctive mangrove ecosystem. It has undergone tremendous changes due to the development of aquaculture and agriculture activities during last two decades. For this, satellite data of different time periods (Landsat MSS of 1973, Landsat TM of 1990 and IRS P6 LISS III of 2006) were used. It was found that the delta was occupied by dense mangrove (12.6%), open mangrove (3.3%), aquaculture (12.9%) and agriculture (30.9%) in 2006. A loss of 2606 ha mangrove area and an increase of 3657 ha aquaculture area was observed from 1973 to 2006 clearly depicts the augment of aquaculture industry. It is suggested that, regular monitoring of the mangroves and effective implementation of coastal management laws be strictly undertaken to prevent the further loss mangroves in Mahanadi delta.     

广西北海银滩侵蚀及其与海平面上升的关系

基于历史图件对比方法和Bruun法则对广西北海银滩岸线的侵蚀进行评估和预测.结果表明银滩在近30a内海岸侵蚀达10.40 m/a,其中人类活动作用是造成海岸侵蚀的主要因素,人类活动对岸线位置蚀退的影响贡献为98%;海平面上升导致岸线蚀退的贡献仅为2%.然而,在未来100 a内,基于历史图件对比分析估算的银滩侵蚀宽度可能超过1 000 m,银滩环境将会发生退化.因海平面上升而对岸线蚀退的贡献权重增加为9%.由于人类活动导致的银滩退化可以进行控制和预防,故对未来海平面上升引发的银滩环境退化应该予以重点关注.     

烟台夹河口近40年来环境变化的地貌响应

采用遥感解译和地貌调查相结合的方法对由于上游水利工程建设使夹河入海流量和泥沙量大幅度减少所引起的地貌响应进行了分析。结果表明，20世纪70年代以前，河口区以堆积状态为主，河口、海滩属建造期；70～90年代，河口区地貌基本保持；中淤平衡，但湿地大面积缩小；90年代以后，河口区逐渐进入侵蚀状态，河口湿地趋于消失，沙嘴不断后退，海滩地貌也随之发生一定的变化。     

人类工程活动对秦皇岛海滩侵蚀及淤积的影响

秦皇岛地区旅游性海滩的侵蚀主要是人类所实施的以水库为主的河流水利工程而产生的海岸效应。在区域性海滩普遍遭受侵蚀状态下，沿海港口工程又通过三种不同形式第滩发育施以影响，其一是对沿岸泥沙流的拦阻，其二为在局部岸段形成完全或不完全波影区，其三为人工岬湾的形成，港工引成的海滩淤积体特征是海滩变宽、变缓及海滩砂细化。文中最后讨论了侵蚀性海滩向演化的发育空间问题。     

河北省自然状态沙质海岸的侵蚀及预测

在系统分析河北省自然状态沙质海岸长期演变的基础上,运用"一线理论"及我国《海港水文规范》中的规范公式,建立海岸侵蚀数学模型,经2000、2006年实测数据验证,表明所建立模型的各参数确定合理,较真实地复演岸线侵蚀特征,可用于自然状态沙质海岸在较长时期内侵蚀预测。根据岸线的预测数据得出如下结论:2006—2026年,岸线整体后退速率不断减小,各岸段侵蚀速率有所不同。至2006年,戴河—洋河段侵蚀状态已基本停止,并逐渐趋于平衡;洋河—大蒲河段仍为侵蚀最严重地区,且侵蚀中心不断向南移动;大蒲河—塔子沟段受蚀速率明显减小,但随着侵蚀进一步进行以及沙源的减少,冲刷范围逐渐南移,将成为新的侵蚀中心地区。     

Examination of the influence of several factors on longshore current computation with random waves

Influence of various factors affecting the longshore currents induced by obliquely incident random waves is examined through numerical calculation. Seven numerical models for random wave breaking process are found to yield large differences in the wave heights in the surf zone and longshore current velocities. The turbulent eddy viscosity formulation by Larson and Kraus [Larson, M. and Kraus, N.C. (1991): Numerical model of longshore current for bar and trough beaches, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Eng., ASCE, 117 (4), pp. 326-347.] functions almost equal to that by Battjes [Battjes, J.A. (1975): Modeling of turbulence in the surf zone, Proc. Symp. Modeling Techniques, pp. 1050–1061.], but the formulation by Longuet-Higgins [Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1970): Longshore current generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 1 and 2, J. Geophys. Res., 75 (33), pp. 6779–6801.] produces excessive diffusion of longshore currents into the offshore zone. The generation and decay process of the surface roller is indispensable in the longshore current analysis. The random wave transformation model called PEGBIS (Parabolic Equation with Gradational Breaker Index for Spectral waves) by Goda [Goda, Y. (2004): A 2-D random wave transformation model with gradational breaker index, Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE and World Scientific, 46 (1), pp. 1–38.] produced good agreement with several laboratory and field data of longshore currents.     

Using Shoreline Video Assessment for coastal planning and restoration in the context of climate change in Kien Giang,Vietnam

Kien Giang, bordering Cambodia in the Mekong River Delta, is one of the two most vulnerable provinces in the region to coastal erosion and flooding. Coastal protection can conflict with current land use and economic development activities. The conditions of the mangrove forest and mainland coastline of the Kien Giang province were assessed using the Shoreline Video Assessment Method (SVAM) backed up with information from satellite images. Half of the 206 km Kien Giang coastline has been eroded or is being eroded. Protective mangrove forests naturally occurred in 74% of the coastline but have been under threat from illegal cutting, erosion and coastal retreat. Accurate information on the state of the coastline and mangrove forest health provided invaluable data for developing a new coastal rehabilitation plan to guard against future sea level rise. In contrast to the current boundary management of land and natural resources, this plan divided the provincial coastline into 19 sections based on the landscape condition and exposure to erosion. Priority strategic actions for erosion management, mangrove restoration and sustainable livelihood development for local communities for each section of coast were developed based on an integrated cross sectoral approach and practical experience in the Conservation and Development of the Kien Giang Biosphere Reserve Project.

     

An NGO role in enhancing integrated coastal management in the Mediterranean and the Black Sea: The MEDCOAST experience

In the early 1990s, integrated coastal management (ICM) in the Mediterranean basin found general acceptance as an important issue both at national and international levels, and since then it has been, though slowly, steadily developed. Donor organizations such as the European Union and the World Bank, and the UNEP's Mediterranean Action Plan played catalyst roles in this development by initiating and supporting pilot projects. In 1992, the European Union launched the Mediterranean programs in by 1999 which the environment, and especially the coastal environment, was considered as a priority issue. Parallel to this development, several NGO initiatives took place for public awareness on pressing coastal issues and in training and education. The idea of MEDCOAST, which is an NGO network of Euro-Mediterranean academic institutions, was born in 1990 and the new initiative was launched in two directions in 1993. One of these was the organization of the First International Conference on the Mediterranean Coastal Environment (2–5 November 1993, Antalya, Turkey), which placed strong emphasis on the management issues. The second was the development of a project proposal to the Med-Campus program of the European Union. The project, which had the title of Educational Programs in Coastal Zone Management, was selected for funding and became operational in early 1994. The first international training program organized by MEDCOAST was the MEDCOAST Institute 94: Coastal Zone Management in the Mediterranean. This three-week long training effort took place in August–September 1994. Since then, MEDCOAST organized eight training programs in by 1999 five different countries, which were participated by 173 professionals representing 31 countries. Development of an international Masters Degree program in ICM was the second goal of the MEDCOAST's Med-Campus project. Efforts for pursuing this goal are still continuing. This paper elaborates the potential for the NGO's contribution to training and education in the field of integrated coastal management in the Mediterranean and the Black Sea by introducing the MEDCOAST experience. It presents the past and planned MEDCOAST efforts and discusses the strengths and limitations of the role of NGOs at the regional scale.