On some peculiarities of the dispersion properties of internal waves in the ocean

The effect of mean flows on the dependence of the internal waves' group velocity on the wavenumber is considered. Experimental data on the behaviour of internal wave packets propagating in the ocean at an extreme group velocity are reported.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

The spectral characteristics and kinematics of short-period internal waves on the Hawaiian shelf

Based on the results of analyzing the characteristics of currents and temperature measured in the water space of the Mamala Bay (the Island of Oahu, Hawaii), we investigate the main properties of the field of short-period internal waves, which is very complex. We focus on analyzing the spectral characteristics and orbit parameters for waves with a period of 20 minutes. The results of investigations reveal two types of short-period internal waves for this area: intense and fast waves propagating predominantly toward the ocean and weaker and slower waves propagating mainly toward the coast. Suppositions are made on how these waves form: the strong and fast waves are likely to be caused by the decay of locally generated internal tides near the shelf edge, while the weak and slow and very short waves seem to result from the specific interaction between the pycnocline and strong tidal currents over a steep slope.     

内孤立波作用下FPSO动力响应特性

以KdV、eKdV和MCC理论的适用性条件为依据,利用内孤立波产生的瞬时速度和瞬时压力沿船体表面求面积分的方法分别计算浮式生产储油卸油装置(FPSO)内孤立波摩擦阻力和Froude-krylov力,再结合时域有限位移运动方程,研究了有限深两层流体中的内孤立波与带分段式系泊缆FPSO的相互作用问题。以东沙群岛某海域实测170 m振幅的内孤立波为对象,数值分析了在内孤立波作用下FPSO的内孤立波动态载荷、运动响应及其系泊张力的变化特性。研究表明,内孤立波会对FPSO产生突发的冲击,使FPSO产生大幅度水平漂移运动,导致系泊缆张力显著增大。在该振幅内孤立波作用下,FPSO受到的水平力最大可达56 t,垂向力最大可达1 961 t;纵荡位移可达47.62 m,系泊缆张力增加最大可达106.4 t。因此,在FPSO等深海浮式结构物的设计应用中,内孤立波的影响是不可忽视的。     

Effect of dispersion on impulsive waves

The generation and propagation of surface waves resulting from suddenly created disturbances over water surfaces is investigated. The initial boundary conditions defining the disturbance are given either by a velocity of the free surface, an initial elevation of the free surface or a pressure impulsively applied on the free surface. It is shown that the corresponding three forms of solutions are related by a simple time derivative. Linear solutions are obtained in the cases where the wave motion is assumed to be nondispersive, mildly dispersive and fully dispersive, as well as in the case where the motion is given by the method of stationary phase. Criteria are established to indicate the limit of validity of each method.     

具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.     

Parameterization of the dispersion relation of internal waves using the data of hydrological soundings in the Tropical Atlantic

Dependences have been determined which connect the parameters of the dispersion relation of the lowest mode of internal waves with the integral characteristics of the seasonal thermocline when 10 min30 min, 20 mh150 m, and 0·4 m²/s² Q5·2 m²/s².Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

内孤立波作用下Spar平台动力响应特性

以三类内孤立波理论(Kd V、e Kd V和MCC)的适用性条件为依据,采用Morison和傅汝德-克雷洛夫公式分别计算Spar平台内孤立波水平力和垂向力,结合时域有限位移运动方程,建立了有限深两层流体中内孤立波与带分段式系泊索Spar平台相互作用的理论模型。以东沙群岛某海域实测内孤立波为对象,数值分析了在内孤立波作用下某经典式Spar平台的内孤立波动态载荷、运动响应及其系泊张力的变化特性。研究表明,内孤立波不仅会对Spar平台产生突发性冲击载荷,使其产生大幅度水平漂移运动,而且还会使其系泊张力显著增大。因此,在Spar平台等深海平台的设计应用中,内孤立波的影响不可忽视。     

陆架斜坡对内孤立波的动力响应特性试验研究

针对内孤立波在行进过程中遇到海底斜坡会对海底产生力的作用,不同坡度斜坡对内孤立波的动力响应应该存在差异。本文通过水槽中制造内波,对不同角度的斜坡对内孤立波的动力响应过程进行了研究。结果表明,内孤立波通过陆架斜坡上方,会造成斜坡沉积物超孔隙水压力的积累;在相同振幅条件下,缓坡沉积物动力响应的幅度比陡坡沉积物大;随着振幅的增加,缓坡发生动力破坏程度大于陡坡;在斜坡沉积物稳定性受到破坏之前,超孔隙水压力的积累和释放同时存在,内孤立波振幅的增大会加剧超孔隙水压力的释放。该结果对于斜坡沉积物在内孤立波作用下失稳破坏的动力学研究和斜坡稳定性分析将起到指导作用。     

浮式生产储油系统内孤立波载荷特性实验

将置于大尺度密度分层水槽上下层流体中的两块垂直板反方向平推,以基于MCC理论解的内孤立波诱导上下层流体中的层平均水平速度作为其运动速度,发展了一种振幅可控的双推板内孤立波实验室造波方法,并对内孤立波作用下浮式生产储油系统(FPSO)的载荷特性开展了系列实验。结果表明,无因次内孤立波水平力和力矩幅值均与先导内孤立子无因次振幅之间呈线性关系,其斜率与上下层流体深度比有关;在各种上下层流体深度比下,无因次内孤立波垂向力幅值与先导内孤立子振幅之间近似呈幂函数关系。     

Infragravity waves with internal wave characteristics in the south of the Bohai Sea of China

The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves.     

内孤立波破碎后对斜坡沉积物的动力作用过程及特性实验研究

为完善内孤立波与海底斜坡沉积物相互作用研究,本文着眼于内孤立波破碎后在斜坡上继续运动的阶段,开展物理模拟实验,分析斜坡响应的土压力和超孔隙水压力的变化状况,揭示内波作用过程。研究发现：斜坡沉积物颗粒在内孤立波破碎引起的涡旋和渗流的共同作用下,会发生再悬浮,斜坡坡度变化不改变沉积物产生动力响应的主导动力作用;内孤立波振幅大小影响涡旋与渗流两者的比例,即在小振幅条件下由涡旋作用主导,在大振幅条件下由渗流作用主导;破碎流体在沿斜坡冲出坡顶位置后形成新的涡流,沉积物在新生涡流作用下的动力响应受斜坡坡度的影响。本文结果对于研究内孤立波再悬浮运移海底沉积物、改造海底地形地貌具有参考价值。     

基于遥感影像边界特性对南海海洋内波检测算法研究 *

海洋内波在海洋活动中扮演重要角色。海洋内波研究对我国海洋科学的理论研究、海洋资源的保护、开发和利用以及海洋军事等方面均具有重要意义。为了及时发现海洋内波的发生地点以及对海洋内波参数进行定量分析, 本研究基于合成孔径雷达(synthetic aperture radar, SAR)影像中内波明暗条纹的边界特性, 提出了一种集成的海洋内波检测算法: 主要运用列分离邻域处理和Canny算子边缘检测算法对条纹进行检测, 并利用海洋内波的轮廓长度、面积比值及传播方向三个特征对条纹进行筛选, 并将该算法应用于南海发生的多起海洋内波, 以验证算法的鲁棒性和适用性。研究结果表明, 该算法能够较好地识别出海洋内波的明暗条纹, 不仅能够除去非内波条纹的轮廓, 而且能够去除一些细小且不明显的内波条纹轮廓。利用余弦函数逐像素地对识别后的条纹进行拟合, 然后根据拟合结果找出明暗条纹所在位置以及相邻明暗条纹之间的间距, 从而判定出内波发生的位置。     

基于光学遥感的安达曼海内孤立波传播速度特性研究

安达曼海内孤立波非常活跃且错综复杂,传播速度是内孤立波的重要特征参量,本文采用光学遥感手段建立了内孤立波传播速度的计算方法。收集并处理大量Terra/Aqua-MODIS遥感图像,利用两景图像追踪同一内孤立波与同一激发源产生的内孤立波波群两种方法定量研究安达曼海内孤立波传播速度。研究结果表明:安达曼海内孤立波传播速度在0.5～2.7 m/s之间,内孤立波传播方向主要受海底地形的影响,传播速度大小在传播过程中随水深变浅而呈减小的趋势,在深水区传播速度大小还呈现出季节性差异。     

张力腿平台内孤立波作用特性数值模拟

依据三类内孤立波理论KdV、eK dV和MCC的适用性条件,采用Navier-Stokes方程为流场控制方程,以内孤立波诱导上下层深度平均水平速度作为入口边界条件,建立了两层流体中内孤立波对张力腿平台强非线性作用的数值模拟方法。结果表明,数值模拟所得内孤立波波形及其振幅与相应理论和实验结果一致,并且在内孤立波作用下张力腿平台水平力、垂向力及力矩数值模拟结果与实验结果吻合。研究同时表明,张力腿平台内孤立波载荷由波浪压差力、粘性压差力和摩擦力构成,其中摩擦力很小,可以忽略;水平力的主要成分为波浪压差力和粘性压差力,粘性压差力与波浪压差力相比较小却不可忽略,流体粘性的影响较小;垂向力中粘性压差力很小,流体粘性影响可以忽略。     

抛物线型背景流对内孤立波特征和能量影响的数值模拟研究

本文基于南海东北部观测的抛物线型背景流,设计了8种形式的抛物线型背景流,利用IGW模式研究了其对内孤立波(ISW)的特征和能量学的影响。研究结果表明:背景流对波包中ISW数目没有影响,但减小了ISW的相速度;对于下边界在主温跃层附近或在其上的抛物线型背景流,ISW振幅和最大位移深度均增加;随着抛物背景流曲率减小,ISW振幅、斜压与正压能比值减小,同时ISW相速度、正压能、斜压能、KE/APE都增加;如果抛物背景流底部延伸至海底,且曲率减小,则ISW振幅、相速度减小,同时正压能、斜压能、KE/APE增加;在整个深度上的背景流,随着下层曲率减小和上层曲率增大,ISW振幅、相速度、斜压与正压能比值、斜压能、KE/APE均增加。     

The effect of tidal currents on internal waves

Internal waves were observed by measuring temperature variations of several subsurface layers at the innermost part of Suruga Bay from December 1968 to October 1971. Spectral energy densities of temperature fluctuations were computed from the records of the measurements. In the shorter period range from one minute to one hour, peaks of energy density were found occasionally in the range shorter than the minimum of VÄisÄlÄ periods computed from the vertical distribution of water density. It has been generally understood, however, that the periods of internal waves in a stable stratum should be within the range between the inertial and VÄisÄlÄ periods.The measurements of tidal currents in the surface and lower layers, which were undertaken simultaneously with the temperature measurements, revealed that the short-period oscillations were associated with the increase of current velocity and of vertical shear of current at the pycnocline.It is considered that observed periods shorter than the minimum of VÄisÄlÄ period are not real but apparent periods due to the Doppler effect, because the waves are generated in the velocity shear of tidal current and the source is moving towards the station with the tidal current.     

内孤立波浅化破碎过程斜坡沉积物孔压响应特征实验分析

观测资料显示内孤立波沿斜坡浅化过程对海底沉积物的作用犹如一台水中吸尘器,在破碎转换阶段达到最强,甚至会触发一系列地质活动,引发地质灾害。为界定此过程中沉积物的动力响应特征和影响因素,在大型重力式分层流水槽中模拟不同振幅内孤立波和不同类型沉积物斜坡连续作用过程,利用孔隙水压力采集系统实时记录孔隙水压力变化,对比分析不同水动力、坡度、沉积物类型情况下沉积物中超孔压变化特征。分析结果表明,内孤立波破碎过程,破波位置海床表层波压力和不同深度超孔隙水压力都存在相似的"U"型负压力变化过程;破碎波经过位置沉积物表现为和表面波压力正相关的孔压响应特征。破碎点沉积物中超孔压幅值随深度减小,约在6%波长深度位置减少到坡面压力的50%。超孔压幅值和内孤立波振幅、沉积物类型和斜坡度密切相关,坡度由0.071变化到0.160时,波压力幅值可增大至1.6倍。内孤立波振幅变化不影响不同类型海床土动力响应规律,只与超孔隙水压力值大小有关,内孤立波对海床的动力作用可认为弹性作用。     

基于重叠网格方法浮筒涡激运动特性数值分析

浮筒被广泛应用在海洋工程中,研究浮筒的涡激运动对于减少其对海洋平台构件的疲劳损坏具有指导意义。传统的动网格方法在处理浮筒转动运动时会因网格变形过大导致计算不收敛,采用了重叠网格方法以解决这一问题。数值试验采用了基于开源工具包Open FOAM自主开发的naoe-FOAM-SJTU求解器。分别进行了自由衰减数值试验和涡激运动数值试验。研究表明,随着折合速度的增加,浮筒的顺流向、横流向、垂荡和艏摇运动频率增加,且顺流向与垂荡频率相近,横流向与艏摇频率相近;其次,根据涡量场分布,表明浮筒前一时刻的泻涡会影响到浮筒之后时刻的周向涡量分布;最后,研究发现自由端对于浮筒尾流场泻涡有着显著影响,为将来探究减少浮筒涡激运动的方法提供指导。     

利用SAR遥感卫星资料研究东海内孤立波时空分布特征

通过分析欧洲空间局的地球资源卫星(ERS-1/2)从1995—2010年的合成孔径雷达(SAR)图像,研究了东海内孤立波的时间分布特征,绘制了东海内孤立波的空间分布图,并且反演了个别海区内孤立波的传播速度。研究结果表明:东海内孤立波主要分布在两个海域,台湾东北部海域和长江口、杭州湾以及外舟山群岛附近海域。在这两个海域,大潮期间的强潮流有利于内孤立波的出现。在长江口及附近海域,跃层强时,内孤立波出现的概率相对较高。台湾东北部内孤立波波速约为0.6—0.8 m/s,长江口及附近海域内孤立波波速约为0.6 m/s左右。     

A method of submersion in the problem on the determination of dispersion curves of internal waves in the presence of a current with vertical velocity shear

The previously proposed method [1] of submerging aimed at determining internal wave dispersion characteristics is generalized to consider the case of a background horizontal flow with a vertical velocity shear. The results of calculating, dispersion curves of discrete spectrum modes for the profiles of the Brunt-Väisälä frequency and the mean current velocity are given; they agree well with the results of studies carried out in ref. [5].Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.