实验室观测条件下的规则长波对风浪低频频移影响(英文)

本文利用实验室波浪水槽观测规则长波对风浪的影响。谱分析显示,较之纯风浪谱,除已被广泛关注的长波抑制风浪这一现象外,当长波波陡较小,且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波还使得风浪谱向低频移动。本文利用Longuet-HigginsStewart(1960)理论,并考虑到风浪破碎的约束,计算了规则长波的存在对风浪谱的影响,发现可以较好地解释这一现象。这一工作表明,当长波波陡小且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波对短波的二阶调制及其引起的破碎加强可能是长波影响风浪的主要机制。     

逆行涌浪引起的风浪谱的变化──Ⅰ.实验研究

60年代初,Longuet-Higgins和Stewart^[1]完成的理论工作揭示了一个有趣的现象:当波长较短的重力波叠加在波长较长的重力波上时,短波的振幅在长波的波峰处达到最大,在长波的波谷处达到最小值.这是由两个原因造成的:一是在长波的波峰处出现几何上的辐合,另一是辐射应力的作功.     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在。文中利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法(2D法)和3种一维谱风涌浪分离方法(PM法、WH法、JP法)进行了检验,分析发现:2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

内波对风浪中短波波面斜率分布的影响

在小风速条件下,分层水中,水下运动物体所产生的内波,通过改变表面流场,使得风浪中的短波波面斜率分布发生了改变.由此,可以通过观察表面风浪中短波波面斜率分布的变化,识别出水下运动物体的移动轨迹     

内波对风浪中短波波面斜率分布的影响

在小风速条件下,分层水中,水下运动物体所产生的内波,通过改变表面流场,使得风浪中的短波波面斜率分布发生了改变。由此,可以通过观察表面风浪中短波波面斜率分布的变化,识别出水下运动物体的移动轨迹     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较（英文）

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在,如何进行分离风浪和涌浪一直是海浪理论研究和海洋工程应用中的重要问题。本文利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法（2D法）和三种一维谱风涌浪分离方法（PM法、WH法、JP法）进行了检验,分析发现：2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

“海棠”台风风浪场分析

通过对0505号"海棠"台风的高、低空气流场的分析,揭示了"海棠"台风浪成长、发展、消衰的机制和规律.结果表明:台风浪的大小和范围不仅与台风的强度、移速及周围大尺度天气系统有关,而且也受岛屿及海底地形等环境条件的影响.     

台风“梅花”风浪场和涌浪场特征分析

基于第三代海浪数值模式WAVEWATCHⅢ(v3.14),在WRF模式提供模式风场驱动下,对1109号台风"梅花"的风浪场、涌浪场和混合浪场进行了数值模拟,并在我国东部沿海选取了3个关注站点,探讨涌浪和风浪波高随时间变化与台风中心位置的关系以及台风影响下海浪二维谱、风浪场和涌浪场分布和变化特征。结果表明,新版的海浪模式能较好表现福建和浙江沿海、长江口附近、山东半岛南端的3个关注区域的台风涌浪先于风浪到达的事实;距台风中心不同距离,混合浪波高的组成和波高变化不同;台风的外围区涌浪场的高值区对应着风浪场的低值区,台风的大风区风浪场的高值区对应着涌浪场的低值区,台风眼区则为涌浪区。涌浪多分布在台风风浪影响范围之外,波向由台风中心向外辐射。     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves

On the basis of data on the statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves reported in part I of this series, a self-consistent similarity regime is found to exist among properties of the individual waves, such as the nondimensional frequency, the wave number, the phase speed, and the steepness. Also, it is shown that forms of past empirical formulas for the development of the peak wave can be derived starting from the 3/2-power law, as an extension of the persent laboratory experimental data. In the derivation, only values of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law, and the fraction of momentum transferred from the wind retained by the wind waves, remain on an empirical basis.     

Turbulent structure in water under laboratory wind waves

The structure of the turbulent boundary layer underneath laboratory wind waves was studied by using a combination of a high-sensitivity thermometer array with a two-component sonic flowmeter. The temperature fluctuations are used to detect movements of water parcels, with temperature as a passive quantity. The turbulence energy was dominant in the frequency range (0.01 0.1 Hz), which was much smaller than the wind-wave frequency (2 5 Hz), and in which the turbulence was anisotropic. There was a frequency range (0.2 2 Hz for velocity, 0.2 5 Hz for temperature fluctuation) where the turbulence was isotropic and had a –5/3 slope in the energy spectrum. These points are the same as those in previous works. However, by analyses of the time series by using a variable-interval time-averaging technique (VITA), it has been found that conspicuous events in this main turbulence energy band are the downward bursting from the vicinity of the water surface. Thus the structure of the water layer underneath the wind waves has characters which are similar to the familiar turbulent boundary layer over a rough solid wall, as already conceived. It has been found that, at the same time, the turbulence energy can be related to quantities of the wind waves (the root mean squared water level fluctuation and the wave peak frequency), for different wind and wave conditions. That is, the turbulence underneath the wind waves develops under a close coupling with the wind waves.     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Nonlinear properties of laboratory wind waves at energy containing frequencies

Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K ₃=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K ₄=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness , but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed . It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies.     

Oceanic Rossby waves induced by the meridional shift of the ITCZ in association with ENSO events

This study investigated the eastern Pacific Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) as an atmospheric forcing to the ocean by using various observed and reanalysis data sets over 29 years. Climatologically, a zonal band of positive wind stress curl (WSC) with a 10° meridional width was exhibited along the ITCZ. A southward shift of the positive WSC band during the El Niño phase induced a negative (positive) WSC anomaly along the northern (southern) portion of the ITCZ, and vice versa during the La Niña phase. This meridional dipole accounted for more than 25 % of interannual variances of the WSC anomalies (WSCAs), based on analysis of the period 1993–2008. The negative (positive) WSCA in the northern portion of the ITCZ during the El Niño (La Niña) phase was collocated with a positive (negative) sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) that propagated westward as a Rossby wave all the way to the western North Pacific. This finding indicates that this off-equatorial Rossby wave is induced by the WSCA around the ITCZ. Our analysis of a 1.5-layer reduced gravity model revealed that the Rossby waves are mostly explained by wind stress forcing, rather than by reflection of an equatorial Kelvin wave on the eastern coastal boundary. The off-equatorial Rossby wave had the same SSHA polarity as the equatorial Kelvin wave, and generation of a phase-preserving Rossby wave without the Kelvin wave reflection was explained by meridional movement of the ITCZ. Thus, the ITCZ acts as an atmospheric bridge that connects the equatorial and off-equatorial oceanic waves.     

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves I. Individual wave spectra and similarity structure

Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range.     

Generation of long waves by random sources

A statistical approach is applied to solving the problem of long wave generation due to the ocean bottom shift. Various models of random sources are studied. The dependence of the amplitudinal characteristics of long waves on the time scale of random processes is considered. Results of the solution of the dynamic and random source problems are compared.Translated by V. Puchkin.