Second-order random interfacial wave solutions for two-layer fluid with a free surface

1 Introduction Interfacial waves travelling along the interface between two fluids of different densities can be often observed in subsurface layers of the ocean since the upper subsurface layer is warmer over much of the o- cean (Umeyama, 2002). They are…     

Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.     

On the Fifth-Order Stokes Solution for Steady Water Waves

This paper presents a universal fifth-order Stokes solution for steady water waves on the basis of potential theory. It uses a global perturbation parameter, considers a depth uniform current, and thus admits the flexibilities on the definition of the perturbation parameter and on the determination of the wave celerity. The universal solution can be extended to that of Chappelear (1961), confirming the correctness for the universal theory. Furthermore, a particular fifth-order solution is obtained where the wave steepness is used as the perturbation parameter. The applicable range of this solution in shallow depth is analyzed. Comparisons with the Fourier approximated results and with the experimental measurements show that the solution is fairly suited to waves with the Ursell number not exceeding 46.7.     

Second-Order Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

剪切流中界面波的二阶Stokes波解

考虑了均匀剪切流场中强非线性界面波,建立了基于任意水深处速度而不是通常所用的平均速度为速度变量的模型,分析了其色散关系,并求得了各层速度的二阶渐近解和界面内波波面位移的二阶Stokes解,揭示了波流之间的非线性相互作用和界面波解之间的非线性相互作用。     

Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for interfacial waves in a two-fluid system

Interfacial waves propagating along the interface between a three-dimensional two-fluid system with a rigid upper boundary and an uneven bottom are considered. There is a light fluid layer overlying a heavier one in the system, and a small density difference exists between the two layers. A set of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities accounting for stronger nonlinearity are derived. When the small parameter measuring frequency dispersion keeping up to lower-order and full nonlinearity are considered, the equations include the Choi and Camassa’s results (1999). The enhanced equations in terms of the depth-averaged velocities are obtained by applying the enhancement technique introduced by Madsen et al. (1991) and Schaffer and Madsen (1995a). It is noted that the equations derived from the present study include, as special cases, those obtained by Madsen and Schaffer (1998). By comparison with the dispersion relation of the linear Stokes waves, we found that the dispersion relation is more improved than Choi and Camassa’s (1999) results, and the applicable scope of water depth is deeper.