Some characteristics of the development process of the wind-wave spectrum

The development process of wind-waves of which spectral peak distributes from 0.6 cps to 9.3 cps will be discussed on the basis of the wind tunnel experiments and of the field observations performed at Lake Biwa. The characteristics of power and slope spectra are here presented. The development process of these wind-waves is characterized by three stages;i.e. initial-wavelets, transition stage and sea-waves. In the wind tunnel experiments, the transition from the stage of the initial-wavelets to the transition stage occurs when the wave spectral peak arrives at the line 6.40×10^–4 k ^–2cm²·sec (wherek is wave number) or when the slope spectral density at the frequencyf _max becomes larger than 6.40×10^–4 sec. In the stage of sea-waves, the component wave of a wave-spectral peak is steepest in the component waves. And the wave spectral peak develops along the line 1.02×10² f ^–6 cm²·sec (wheref is the frequency corresponding to the wave numberk) untill it reaches the line 33.3f ^–4cm²·sec, and thereafter develops along the latter line, which indicates the constant density of slope spectrum. It is suggested that the nonlinearity of wind-waves must become stronger as wind-waves develop. The effective momentum flux _ws from the air flow to wind-waves in this stage is evaluated to be about 49% of the total stress ₀.     

The mechanism of the development of wind-wave spectra

The mechanism of the development of wind-waves will be proposed on the basis of the observed wave spectra in the wind tunnels and at Lake Biwa (Imasato, 1976). It consists of two aspects: One is that the air flow over the wind-waves transfers momentum concentratively to the steepest component waves and the other is that the upper limit of the growth of a wave spectral density is given by the ultimate value in the slope spectral density. The first aspect means that the wave field has the momentum transfer filter on receiving the momentum from the air flow. Wind-waves in the stage of sea-waves receive the necessary amount of momentum by the form drag,e.g. according to the Miles' (1960) inviscid mechanism, through a very narrow frequency region around a dominant spectral peak. On the other hand, wind-waves in the stage of initial-wavelets receive it according to the Miles' (1962a) viscous model through a fairly broad frequency region around the peak. The upper limit ofS _max developing according to viscous mechanism is given byS _max =6.40×10^–4 k _max ^–2cm²s andS _max =2.03C(f _max )^–2cm²s(S _max is the power density of the wave spectral peak with the frequencyf _max ,k _max is the wave number corresponding to the frequencyf _max andC is the phase velocity).From the second aspect, the upper limit of the growth of wave spectral density is given by 33.3f ^–4cm²s in the frequency region of late stage of sea-waves. Therefore, the spectral peak, which has the largest value in the slope spectral density in the component waves of the wave spectrum, rises high over the line 4.15f ^–5cm²s. The energy is transported from the spectral peak to the high frequency part and to the forward face of a wave spectrum by nonlinear wave-wave interaction. This nonlinearity is confirmed by the bispectra calculated from the observed wind-wave data. In the stage of sea-waves, nonlinear rearrangement of the wave energy comes from a narrow momentum transfer filter, and, in the stage of initial-wavelets, it comes mainly from small corrugations and small steepness of the wave field.     

Organic geochemistry of the Japan Sea sediments-1: Bulk organic matter and hydrocarbon analyses of Core KH-79-3, C-3 from the Oki Ridge for paleoenvironment assessments

Organic geochemical study of bulk organic matter (OM), hopanoid hydrocarbon and normal hydrocarbon (C₂₃C₃₅) was conducted for a 936-cm-long sediment core sample from the Oki Ridge of the Japan Sea (Core KH-79-3, C-3; 37°03.5 N, 134°42.6E, water depth 935 m). Stable carbon isotopic ratios were also measured for both bulk OM and individual hydrocarbons. The following results were obtained: (1) The weight ratios of total organic carbon to total nitrogen range from 6.2 to 9.4 in the core. The ¹³C values of bulk OM range from –25.1–20.7%.. The ¹³C values of OM in the sections of 140190 cm are lower (–25–24) than those in the other sections (–23–21). This result indicates that OM in the core except for the 140190 cm sections is essentially of marine origin. (2) The ¹³C value of diploptene (a hopanoid hydrocarbon) in the last glacial maximum (LGM), is –66.3 (vs. PDB), which indicates it originating in methanotrophic bacteria. This result provides evidence to support for the previous ideas (Oba et al., 1980, 1984; Masuzawa and Kitano, 1984) that the bottom waters in the Japan Sea were anoxic in LGM. (3) Long chain (C₂₃C₃₅) n-alkanes of higher-plant wax origin were found throughout the core. Their concentration is high in 140190 cm in depth, suggesting that eolian dust load was high in LGM. (4) The n-alkane/TOC ratio increases with decreasing ¹³C values of bulk OM. This result indicates that the load of terrestrial (probably eolian dust-derived) OM to the Japan Sea became higher in colder climates. (5) The CPI values of long-chain n-alkanes are different in different ¹³O stages of paleoclimate, probably reflecting variations in species of terrestrial higher plants as a result of climatological adaptations.     

Volume transport of the western boundary current penetrating into a marginal sea

The amount of penetration of a western boundary current into a marginal sea which is connected to an open ocean by two narrow straits is estimated from a linear, steady and barotropic theoretical model. In this model the western boundary current in the open ocean is driven by a wind stress imposed at the sea surface. The inflow of the water of the open ocean into the marginal sea is caused by the pressure difference between two straits produced by the wind-driven circulation in the open ocean.Main external parameters are combined into two non-dimensional parameters; and (the ratio of the depth of the marginal sea to that of the open ocean), whereb is the distance between north and south boundaries of the ocean,D ₀ is the depth of the open ocean, is the latitudinal variation of the Coriolis parameter andR is the coefficient of friction. The friction is assumed to be proportional to the flow velocity.In the limit of infinite the volume transport into the marginal sea is not affected by the width of two straits and . It is mainly controlled by the wind stress and the positions of two straits. For finite values of , however, the volume transport depends considerably on and the width of the straits.Guided by both this model and physical considerations, we obtained a relation between the volume transport into the marginal sea and the external parameters. This relation predicts that about 2 % of the volume transport of the Kuroshio penetrates into the Japan Sea.     

Dissolved carbon and 33-133-133-1anomalies in the water column caused by hydrocarbon seeps on the northwestern Gulf of Mexico slope

Alkalinity, dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC), and ¹³C profiles from seep sites on the northwestern Gulf of Mexico upper slope show anomalously negative ¹³C values of up to –4.5 PDB, increased levels of DIC of up to 2.45 mmole/liter, and slight alkalinity rises of up to 2.54 meq/liter, relative to water column profiles from a seep-free site (0.63, 2.04 mmole/liter, and 2.39 meq/liter). The observed DIC enrichments coupled with the¹³C-depletions are attributed to the release of CO₂ by microbial oxidation of crude oil in the seep environment, and its migration into the water column. The ¹³C composition of the migrating CO₂ is estimated to be –26.0 on the basis of dissolved carbon inventory. Manifestation of DIC and ¹³C anomalies in the water column caused by hydrocarbon seepage holds promise to be useful for hydrocarbon reconnaissance surveys over large offshore tracts on account of the simplicity of sampling acquisition, and rapidity of analytical techniques in the laboratory.     

Radiation balance and heat budget at the ocean/atmosphere interface in the western North Pacific

The downward short- and long-wave radiation fluxes at the sea surface (S, L) were measured aboard the R/VHakuho Maru, University of Tokyo, for the period of 117 days on six cruises from 1981 to 1985 in the western North Pacific near Japan. The upward fluxes of short- and long-wave radiation (S, L) were calculated by Payne's (1972) table and the Stefan-Boltzmann's law, respectively. The sensible and laten heat fluxes (Q _h ,Q _e ) were also estimated from an aerodynamic bulk method.From April to August, the daily mean value ofS varied with the amplitude of 100200 Wm^–2. The value ofS was estimated approximately 6% ofS in all seasons. The difference betweenL andL was so small that the net radiation flux (Q _n ) was dominated byS. In addition, the net heat flux at the sea surface was also dominated byS due to small values ofQ _h andQ _e , and then the ocean was warmed at the rate of 111 Wm^–2 in April and 63 Wm^–2 in August in the Oyashio Area, and 132 Wm^–2 in May and 164 Wm^–2 in June in the Kuroshio Area, respectively.From September to March, a remarkable negative correlation between the day to day variation ofS and that ofL was observed except when an intense cold air outbreak occurred. It was found that the correlation was caused by the cloud climatological feature of the western North Pacific in this period.S was not a dominant factor in the net heat flux. The value ofQ _h +Q _e in the Kuroshio Area ranged from 260 Wm^–2 to 630 Wm^–2, much larger thanQ _n which ranged from –8 Wm^–2 to 92 Wm^–2 in the leg mean values (each leg period was about 10 days). Then the ocean was cooled at the rate of –160–620 Wm^–2 during this period. The net heat flux in the Kuroshio Area averaged over five legs from late November to February was –473 Wm^–2. This value is 50100% larger than the climatological values reported so far.The temporal and spatial variability of radiation fluxes and heat fluxes during each leg was also discussed.     

Transmission and reflection of planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean

Transmission and reflection problems when kissing≓ occurs among planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean are studied. The slope parameterS(=dh ₂/dx, whereh ₂is the thickness of the lower layer) is assumed to have constant values in the regionsx 0 andxL and to vary linearly with the increase ofx in the region0xL (refer to Fig. 2 in the text). Furthermore, a wave is entered fromx=– and kissing is assumed to occur in the region (0<)x _axx_b(<L).It is found that a wave of the same type as the incident wave is mainly transmitted when the width of the region in which kissing occurs,L _kiss(=tx _b–x_a), is smaller than _kiss=2/(¦K¦+ _y/2), whereK is a representative wavenumber in the regionx _ab, _y is they-component of , and is the frequency. WhenL _kiss is larger than _kiss, on the other hand, the main wave transmitted is of a different type to the incident wave. As an application, transmission and reflection problems of planetary Rossby waves are considered, and it is shown that when an external (internal) planetary Rossby wave is entered, an internal (external) one can be transmitted due to the effect of kissing.     

Parameterization of the dispersion relation of internal waves using the data of hydrological soundings in the Tropical Atlantic

Dependences have been determined which connect the parameters of the dispersion relation of the lowest mode of internal waves with the integral characteristics of the seasonal thermocline when 10 min30 min, 20 mh150 m, and 0·4 m²/s² Q5·2 m²/s².Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

The evolution of isolated vortices interacted with steep slope

Numerical solutions are examined for isolated, intense vortices as influenced by western bounding bottom topography through the use of a rigid-lid, two-layer primitive -plane numerical model. Systematic studies are made of the sense of rotation (cyclonic/anticyclonic), the consequence of varying the gradient of bottom slope, and the different vertical shear in a two layer ocean. In the basin with a bottom slope, the nearly barotropic anticyclonic vortex forms a modon-like vortex for S with fixedRo ₂<O(1) (where is the ratio between the variation of the Coriolis parameter across the eddy to the Coriolis parameter in the center, S the topographic effect and,Ro ₂ the Rossby number in the lower layer) and its generation is due to a compound effect of the planetary beta, topographic beta, avvection, and mirror image. The formation of the modon-like vortex and the propagation of the original vortex onto the bottom slope depends on the strength of slope gradient and the baroclinicity of the vortex. The nearly barotropic anticyclonic vortex evolves into the stronger upper ocean one with increasing S: the gradient of the bottom slope becomes steeper. Then the original vortex lives longer because the barotropic component of the energy is converted to the baroclinic one and it moves toward southeast in forming a modon-like vortex in the lower layer. The evolution of a vortex in the model results are compared to observational results of a Kuroshio warm core ring (KWCR) obtained from hydrographic data (June, 1985) and from NOAA satellite infrared images (April, 1985 to July, 1985). It is shown that a KWCR (June, 1985) is influenced by the western continental slope/shelf of the East Japan.     

Variation of water system distribution in the Sanriku Coastal Area

We analyzed hydrographic data obtained monthly by the Iwate Prefectural Fisheries Laboratory during 1977–1981. Our attention was focussed on the classification of waters based on the Temperature-Salinity (T-S) scatter diagram analyses, and on the extraction of the mean state of their distribution for each season. The water system was defined as all waters occupying some specific region on the T-S plane, and the mean state for each season was expressed by the distribution of the mode water systems (i.e., the most commonly occuring water system).Because of the coexistence of the Tsugaru Warm Current, the Oyashio and the Kuroshio, and their large seasonal variability, the sea waters had a wide variety of T-S combinations. The detailed T-S scatter diagram analyses allowed us to classify the waters into six water systems. A time-longitude diagram of water systems and the distribution of mode water systems are presented. The latter showed clear seasonal variations of the Tsugaru Warm Current and the Oyashio.Though the water system analysis was successfully able to present the distribution of the various waters in the Sanriku Coastal Area and to clearly extract the mean state of sea conditions, it was found that the classification of water systems on the T-S plane was not complete in all cases for this area.     

The separation of flow past a circular cylinder on aβ-plane

Effects of the Ekman friction on the prograde (eastward) flows past a cylinder on a-plane are investigated when (=R ²/U, whereR is the cylinder radius andU the freestream speed)O(1) and(=2E _k ^1/2/R ₀·O(1) where is the non-dimensional beta parameter and the ratio of the square root of the Ekman numberE _k multiplied by 2 to the Rossby numberRo multiplied by the aspect ratio(=H/R, whereH is the fluid depth). Previous studies without the Ekman friction have shown that the-effect inhibits flow separation for pragrade flows through the asymptotic boundary condition by shifting the region of the adverse pressure gradient toward the rear stagnation point. It is found that the Ekman friction alleviates this-effect on the exterior flow. In the E_k ^1/4-boundary layer, on the other hand, Ekman friction suppresses the vorticity advection along the wall, which tends to make the boundary layer thickness thin and delay the flow separation. The Ekman friction thus affects flow separation in a complicated manner. Details of the boundary layer structures and the separation angles are described for 0.3< <4.0 and 0.1<<1.5.     

Low-frequency variability of hydrometeorological fields and heat fluxes over the North Atlantic

The linear and quadratic trends of the parameters of interaction of the atmosphere with the ocean in the North Atlantic are computed according to the archival data of the Russian Hydrometeorological Center accumulated for 1957–1990. The linear trends are regarded as probable manifestations of the anthropogenic processes. At the same time, the quadratic trends are regarded as manifestations of natural low-frequency oscillations with a characteristic period of ~65 yr. The linear trends of the sea-surface temperature (SST) and the surface air temperature (SAT) are negative at high latitudes. The thermal (SST—SAT) contrasts and the deficiency of humidity E decrease over the most part of the investigated water area, thus revealing the active influence of the North Atlantic on the trends of SAT caused by the negative feedback in the system supported by the changes in the evident and latent heat fluxes. The significant quadratic trends of various hydrometeorological parameters and total heat fluxes confirm the predominance of natural variability with a period of ~65 yr in the North Atlantic. The quadratic trend of the heat fluxes is mainly caused by the quadratic trend of E. The coincidence of the phases of long-period anomalies of the SAT and E over the major part of the North Atlantic reveals the decisive role of the variability of the ocean in supporting the interdecadal oscillations in the ocean—atmosphere system.Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 19–38, July–August, 2004.     

Glacial to Holoceneδ 13C variations in intermediate depth water masses of North Indian Ocean

The ¹⁸O and ¹³C compositions of glacial- to Holocene-aged benthic foraminifera in a core collected from the eastern Arabian sea (water depth 1230 m) were determined to investigate glacial—interglacial variations in the intermediate depth water chemistry of the North Indian Ocean. In addition, we determined the ¹³C composition of Holocene benthic foraminifera from seven cores for which the ¹⁸O and ¹³C of benthic foraminifera from last glacial maximum (LGM) were reported by Kallel et al. (1988). The ¹³C_DIC in the intermediate waters was generally depleted by 0.3–0.4 during the last glacial maximum compared to Holocene.     

Morphology of largeHalimeda bioherms,eastern Java sea (Indonesia): A side-scan sonar study

The most extensive and thickestHalimeda bioherms reported from modern seas occur along both open and protected margins of Kalukalukuang Bank, eastern Java Sea (Indonesia). Seismic profiles suggest these features average 20 to 30 m thick (maximum 50 m) and developed over large areas by coalescence of individual mounds. Bioherm morphologies range from numerous small mounds ( 10–20 m diameter) through hay-stack features ( 100 m diameter) to broad swells. Some modern bank bioherms display surface forms that appear related to onbank flow from Makassar Strait. Upwelling of cold, nutritive water is likely responsible for unusualHalimeda productivity and large bioherm development.     

A study on the chemical forms of radionuclides in seawater—II chloride and sulfate complexes of60Co

The apparent stability constants for chloride and sulfate ions with Co (II) at ionic strength of 0.67 were determined by the cation exchange method. The value of the stability constant ₁ for chloride ion with Co (II) ion was 0.79±0.055. The stability constants ₁, ₂ and ₃ for sulfate ion with Co (II) ion were 12.0±0.27, 91.5±11.4 and l,110±250, respectively. The chemical species of Co (II) in seawater was estimated at the pH of 8.0 to be present as Co²⁺ (63%), CoCl⁺ (27%) and CoSO₄ ⁰ (8.6%) using the known value of dissociation constant of Co (II), and under the assumption that only major inorganic anions are responsible for the chemical equilibrium of Co (II).     

δ15N of PON and Nitrate as a Clue to the Origin and Transformation of Nitrogen in the Subarctic North Pacific and Its Marginal Sea

Nitrogen isotope compositions of particulate organic matter and nitrate were analyzed for seawater sampled at five stations at the Alaskan Gyre, Western Subarctic Gyre and East China Sea, focusing on the samples from the surface to 5000 m water to characterize the nitrogen cycling in the subarctic North Pacific Ocean and its marginal sea. The ¹⁵N of particulate organic matter showed little agreement with a conceptual closed model that interprets isotopic variation as being caused by isotope discrimination on nitrate utilization. The ¹⁵N and ¹³C of particulate organic matter varied with the water depth. A correlation between isotope compositions and C/N elemental ratio was found generally at all stations, although some irregular data were also found in deep layers. We developed a hypothetical nitrogen balance model based on N₂ fixation and denitrification in seawater and attempted to apply it to distinguish nutrient cycling using both ¹⁵N-NO₃ ^– and N* variation in seawater. This model was applied to the observed data set of ¹⁵N-NO₃ ^– and N* in the North Pacific water and estimated the ¹⁵N-NO₃ ^– of primordial nitrate in the North Pacific deep water as 4.8. The North Pacific intermediate water for all stations showed similar ¹⁵N-NO₃ ^– and N* values of 6 and –3 µmol/kg, respectively, suggesting a similar nitrogen biogeochemistry. In the East China Sea, analysis showed evidence of water exchange with the North Pacific intermediate water but a significant influence of nitrogen from the river runoff was found in depths shallower than 400 m.     

Some remarks on the spectrum of rapid-changing random data in the ocean

Spectral characteristics of rapid-changing random data in the ocean are discussed. Analysis shows that, if records are approximated by saw-toothed random series ₁ and step series ₂, ₁ and ₂ generally have spectral ranges of the –4th power and –2nd power, respectively, with respect to frequency (or wave number).     

Deposition Rates of Terrestrial and Marine Organic Carbon in the Osaka Bay, Seto Inland Sea, Japan, Determined Using Carbon and Nitrogen Stable Isotope Ratios in the Sediment

Carbon and nitrogen stable isotope ratios (¹³C and ¹⁵N) of surface sediments were measured within Osaka Bay, in the Seto Inland Sea in Japan, in order to better understand the sedimentation processes operating on both terrestrial and marine organic matter in the Bay. The ¹³C and ¹⁵N of surface sediments in the estuary of the Yodo River were less than –23 and 5 respectively, but increased in the area up to about 10 km from the river mouth. At greater distances they became constant (giving ¹³C of about –20 and ¹⁵N about 6). It can be concluded that large amounts of terrestrial organic matter exist near the mouth of the Yodo River. Stable isotope ratios in the estuary of the Yodo River within 10 km of the river mouth were useful indicators allowing study of the movement of terrestrial organic matter. Deposition rates for total organic carbon (TOC) and total nitrogen (TN) over the whole of the Bay were estimated to be 63,100 ton C/year and 7,590 ton N/year, respectively. The deposition rate of terrestrial organic carbon was estimated to be 13,200 (range 2,000–21,500) ton C/year for the whole of Osaka Bay, and terrestrial organic carbon was estimated to be about 21% (range 3–34) of the TOC deposition rate. The ratio of the deposition rate of terrestrial organic carbon to the rate inflow of riverine TOC and particulate organic carbon (POC) were estimated to be 19% (range 3–31) and 76% (range 12–100), respectively.     

Field data support of three-seconds power law andgu *σ−4-spectral form for growing wind waves

Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH ^*=BT ^*3/2 and=2BT ^*–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH ^*(gH/u _* ²) andT ^*(gT/u _*) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u _* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= _sgu_*^–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of _s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of _s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of _s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.     

High-resolution seismic study of modern fine-grained deposits: Inner shelf off the southeastern coast of Korea

The geometry and internal structures of modern sediments on the inner shelf off the southeastern coast of Korea were investigated by means of analysing high-frequency (3.5 kHz) seismic records. The records reveal a wedge-shaped sediment body, tapering off toward the sea. On the basis of reflection patterns, the sediments can be classified into two units; foreset (prodelta) unit and bottomset unit, consisting of sandy muds and clays, respectively. The lateral transition from foreset to bottomset deposits suggests a prograding delta system of the Nakdong River since the late Holocene.