Wave pressures on a vertical wall due to short-crested waves: fifth-order approximation

Non-linear wave pressure induced by short-crested waves on a vertical wall is an important factor to be considered in the design of coastal structures. The existing models to estimate the wave pressure in engineering design are limited to the third-order solution ([Hsu et al., 1979]). In this paper, an analytical solution up to the fifth-order is derived through perturbation approximation. This analytical closed-form solution is used to investigate the contributions of the higher-order components in short-crested waves. It is found that fifth-order components significantly affect the change of pressure, especially in shallow water and larger waves.     

Wave reflection in 3D conditions

Based on recent experiments carried out in wave basin on breakwaters with armour layer of rocks and cubes, this paper examines the dependence of the reflection coefficient on wave directional spreading and obliquity. Results suggest that long-crested and short-crested waves give similar reflection. The reflection coefficient is markedly dependent on the wave angle of incidence. The performance of formulae available in the literature is checked against the new dataset and a significant improvement is proposed by including the wave obliquity factor that appears in the traditional expression for the overtopping discharge.     

Wave reflection from vertical breakwater with porous structure

This paper presents numerical solutions for the wave reflection from submerged porous structures in front of the impermeable vertical breakwater. A new time-dependent mild-slope equation involves the parameters of the porous medium including the porosity, the friction factor and the inertia coefficient, etc. is derived for solving the boundary value problem. A comprehensive comparison between the present model and the existing analytical solution for the case of simple rectangular geometries of the submerged structure is performed first. Then, more complicated cases such as the inclined and trapezoidal submerged porous structures in front of the vertical breakwater with sloping bottom are considered. This study also examines the effects of the permeable properties and the geometric configurations of the porous structure to the wave reflection. It is found that the submerged porous structure with trapezoidal shape has more efficiency to reduce the wave reflection than that of triangular shape. The numerical results show that the minimum wave reflection is occurred when the breakwater is located at the intermediate water depth.     

Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.     

Wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate

By applying the linear water wave theory and the eigenfunction expansion method, the wave reflection by a vertical wall with a horizontal submerged porous plate is investigated in this paper. The numerical results, concerning the effects of the dimensionless plate length, the relative water depth, and the porous effect parameter of the plate on the wave loads on the plate and the wave height near the wall as well as the reflection coefficient, are discussed. It is found that the submerged plate increases the complexity of the phenomenon related to the wave reflection and refraction in the close region of the wall, and leads to the occurrence of the phenomenon of wave trapping. The results indicate that there may exist a process of focusing wave energy near the wall for small dimensionless porous effect parameters, whereas the increase of the dimensionless porous effect parameter decreases gradually the wave height until setdown occurs. The behavior of a larger plate with proper porosity is similar to that of a wave absorber which can significantly suppress not only the wave height above the plate but also the reflection waves. The ability of the porous plate to reduce the wave height on the wall surface is, in general, directly proportional to the dimensionless plate length and may be strongest for a proper value of the dimensionless porous effect parameter. It is also demonstrated that the wave loads on a porous plate are smaller than those on an impermeable plate.     

Wave reflection from a vertical permeable wave absorber

A theoretical solution for the reflection of linear shallow-water waves from a vertical porous wave absorber on a horizontal bottom is presented. Periodic solutions are matched at the front face of the absorber by assuming continuity of pressure and mass. The friction term describing the energy loss inside the absorber is linearized and, by using Lorentz principle of equivalent work, the reflection coefficient is determined as a function of parameters describing the incoming waves and the absorber characteristics.     

梳状防波堤上波浪反射

对梳状沉箱防波堤的波浪反射特征进行研究。在对梳状沉箱防波堤非线性消耗波能机理分析基础上,采用阻抗分析方法,导出一组所有参数都是事先知道的、完全封闭的波反射系数公式。     

Wave motion over a breakwater system of a horizontal plate and a vertical porous wall

A two-dimensional analytical solution is presented to study the reflection and transmission of linear water waves propagating past a submerged horizontal plate and through a vertical porous wall. The velocity potential in each fluid domain is formulated using three sets of orthogonal eigenfunctions and the unknown coefficients are determined from the matching conditions. Wave elevations and hydrodynamic forces acting on the porous wall are computed. Reflection and transmission coefficients are presented to examine the performance of the breakwater system. The present analytical solutions are found in fairly good agreement with the available laboratory data. The results indicate that the plate length, the porous-effect, the gap between plate and porous wall, and the submerged depth of the plate all show a significant influence on the reflected and transmitted wave fields. It is also interesting to note that the submerged plate plays an important role in reducing the transmitted wave height, especially for long incident waves.     

Wave reflection from coastal structures in design conditions

Based on an extensive database of more than 4000 data, this paper analyses wave reflection for various types of coastal structures in design conditions, such as smooth, rock and armour unit slopes. A new simple formula has been developed that relates the reflection coefficient to the breaker parameter and seems to fit all kinds of revetment materials by changing two coefficients. These coefficients depend only on the correct roughness factor, provided by recent research on overtopping discharges. The effects on reflection due to composite slopes and to low crests are also examined and proper extensions of the formula are provided.     

波浪对直墙前垂直圆柱的绕射

应用映像原理，将直墙前单个圆柱对波浪的绕射问题，变换为双柱对双向波浪的绕射问题，应用速度势的特征展开方法，建立了直墙前垂直圆柱对波浪绕射的解析解。通过数值计算研究了圆柱与直墙间距离大小、波浪入射角等因素对圆柱上总波浪作用力的影响。计算结果表明，直墙前圆柱上的波浪力将成倍地增加，且随着波数的变化而发生振荡。     

完全非线性孤立波的直墙反射

报道了应用边界积分方法模拟完全非线性孤立波的传播与直墙反射,给出了波形演变过程。结果表明,本模型对计算孤立波的传播与直墙反射是有效的。三阶Boussinesq方程的孤立波解比低阶方程的孤立波解更接近完全非线性的数值解.当来波波高增大时,孤立波直墙反射的相位滞后变小。若考虑大波高孤立波的直墙反射或波——波相互作用,一阶理论预报的相位滞后往往低估实际情况。     

不规则波远破波对直墙的作用

基于物模试验、理论推理、因次分析和工程实例验证等综合分析方法,就不规则波远破波对直墙作用力的计算方法进行了研究,用推荐的方法得到的结果与工程实例符合较好.     

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。     

The irregular broken wave forces on vertical wall

ＴｈｅｉｒｒｅｇｕｌａｒｂｒｏｋｅｎｗａｖｅｆｏｒｃｅｓｏｎｖｅｒｔｉｃａｌｗａｌｌＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ,ＬｉｕＤａｚｈｏｎｇ,ＱｉＧｕｉｐｉｎｇ,ＳｕＸｉａｏｊｕｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＡｐｒｉｌ２１,１９９７,ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＪｕｌｙ２,１９９７）Ａｂ...     

Analysis of Wave Height in Front of a Wave Absorbing Structure with Rubble Foundation

Wave absorbing structures have been widely applied in many countries. In the present paper, the wave heights in front of a vertical wave absorbing structure with rubble foundation as well as in the wave chamber of the structure are analysed using an approximative calculation method, and the dissipating effect of the structure is verified. On the basis of the results of regular waves, the relative wave heights of irregular waves in front of the wave absorbing structure as well as in the chamber have also been analysed.     

波浪对透空外双壁筒柱的绕射

应用透空壁内流体速度与两壁间压力差成正比的线性模型，建立了外壁透空的双筒圆柱对波浪绕射的解析解。通过数值计算研究了外壁透空率的大小、内外柱半径之比等因素对桩柱上总波浪作用力和波面高度的影响。数值结果表明圆柱外壁透空系数的增加，将明显地降低圆柱周围的波浪高度和圆柱上的波浪力；内外柱径之比的大小对波浪力和波高的最大值无太大影响，而对波浪力剧烈衰减区的位置和波高的振荡周期有决定作用。     

The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed

This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented.     

Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

Wave radiation by a uniform cylinder in front of a vertical wall

In this paper, an exact analytical method is developed for the problem of wave radiation by a uniform cylinder in front of a vertical wall. Based on the image principle, the hydrodynamic problem of a cylinder in front of a vertical wall is transformed into the equivalent problem of double cylinders in unbounded fluid domain. Consequently, an analytical method of eigenfunction expansion is adopted to calculate the radiation of the cylinder due to the motion in surge, sway, roll and pitch, respectively. Moreover, numerical analysis has been carried out in detail in order to discuss the influences of the distance between the cylinder and the vertical wall and water depth on the added mass and radiation damping of the cylinder. It is shown that added mass and damping of the cylinder in front of a vertical wall are evidently different from those in case of the cylinder in unbounded fluid domain from the numerical results. It is also found that the added mass and radiation damping oscillate with wave number, and the oscillating frequency increases with the increasing of the distance between the cylinder and the wall.