Directional spectrum methods for deterministic waves

This work discusses developments related to the generation and measurement of directional wave spectra in multi-directional wave tank using deterministic waves. The details of the generation method, based on the single summation method described by Jefferys (1987), are given and the capacity of the Edinburgh curved wave tank to generate such waves is assessed. The Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and one of its derivative, The Modified Maximum Likelihood Method (MMLM) (Isobe and Kondo, 1985), are adapted to the characteristics of deterministic waves. The methods are assessed both with simulated waves and real wave elevations from the Edinburgh curved tank. Both methods show very satisfactory results with very stable angular spreading estimates and good tracking of mean directions of propagation across frequencies. The adapted MLM compares favourably with the industry standard, the Bayesian Directional Method, while only taking a fraction of the time needed to the BDM to produce its spectral estimates.     

分段式造波机生成波浪的方向谱分析

采用声学多普勒流速仪(ADV)和多点测波仪的实验资料,对分段式造波机生成的多向随机波浪进行方向谱分析.结果表明,分段式造波机生成的多向随机波浪的时间平稳性优于空间均匀性;贝叶斯方法(BDM)适合于流速实验资料和阵列波浪资料的方向谱分析,给出的方向谱满足随机波浪的内禀性质(如光滑性、连续性等);流速资料和阵列波浪资料给出的方向谱具有相当的精度,但与测速的深度有关;三参量(如三点波浪、两个方向的速度分量和一点波浪等)可给出具有相当精度的方向谱;给出了衡量方向谱精度的初步标准.     

GPS浮标数据反演海浪谱的理论仿真与试验验证

GPS浮标作为一种新型的海洋测量设备,近年来在海面高度现场测量和星载高度计定标方面取得了重要应用。通过仿真试验对反演海浪谱的方法和流程进行研究,旨在探索从GPS浮标测量的海面高度序列中提取海浪谱的方法。首先,使用Longuest模型生成了海浪波面位移时间序列,并通过Pierson-Moscowitz风浪谱对波面位移的统计特性进行约束,其随机性由相位引入。结合典型潮汐和GPS浮标仪器噪声的仿真时间序列,合成了仿真时间长度1h的1Hz(每秒1次)随机海面高度序列。然后,利用自相关函数法,进行高通滤波和数据压缩,得到了仿真的海浪谱。该仿真结果和理论海浪谱非常接近,可满足海浪谱反演的需求。最后,通过山东石岛外海的GPS浮标现场试验,验证了本文提出的反演方法的适用性。本文的研究解决了GPS浮标反演海浪谱的关键问题,丰富了海浪谱反演的手段,拓展了GPS浮标的应用领域,有望为未来我国的星载波谱仪定标服务。