Seafloor character and sedimentary processes in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound

Multibeam bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles collected in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound reveal previously unrecognized glacial features and modern bedforms. Glacial features include an ice-sculptured bedrock surface, a newly identified recessional moraine, exposed glaciolacustrine sediments, and remnants of stagnant-ice-contact deposits. Modern bedforms include fields of transverse sand waves, barchanoid waves, giant scour depressions, and pockmarks. Bedform asymmetry and scour around obstructions indicate that net sediment transport is westward across the northern part of the study area near Fishers Island, and eastward across the southern part near Great Gull Island.     

Waves, currents, sediment flux and morphological response in a barred nearshore system

A shore-normal array of seven, bi-directional electromagnetic flowmeters and nine surface piercing, continuous resistance wave staffs were deployed across a multiple barred nearshore at Wendake Beach, Georgian Bay, Canada, and monitored for a complete storm cycle. Time-integrated estimates of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux together with bed elevation changes were determined using depth-of-activity rods.

The three bars, ranging in height from 0.10 to 0.40 m accreted during the storm (0.03 m), and the troughs were scoured (0.05 m). Sediment reactivation depths reached 0.14 m and 12% of the nearshore control volume was mobilized. However, the INVF value for the storm was less than 1% of the control volume revealing a near balance in sediment volume in the bar system. Landward migration of the inner, crescentic and second, sinuous bars occurred in association with an alongshore migration of the bar form itself; the outermost, straight, shore-parallel bar remained fixed in location.

The surf zone was highly dissipative throughout the storm (ε = 3.8 × 10²–192 × 10²) and the wave spectrum was dominated by energy at the incident frequency. Spectral peaks at frequencies of the first harmonic and at one quarter that of the incident wave were associated with secondary wave generation just prior to breaking and a standing edge wave, respectively. The former spectral peak was within the 95% confidence band for the spectrum while the latter contributed not more than 10% to the total energy in the surface elevation spectrum even near the shoreline.

During the storm wave height exceeded 2 m (H_s) and periods reached 5 s (T_{p k}): orbital velocities exceeded 0.5 m s⁻¹ (u_{rm s}) and were above the threshold of motion for the medium-to-fine sands throughout the storm. Shore-parallel flows in excess of 0.4 m s⁻¹ were recorded with maxima in the troughs and minima just landward of the bar crest.

The rate and direction of sediment flux is best explained by the interaction of antecedent bed slopes with spatial gradients in the mean and asymmetry of the shore-normal velocity field. These hydrodynamic parameters represent “steady” flows superimposed on the dominantly oscillatory motion and assumed a characteristic spatial pattern from the storm peak through the decay period. Increases spatially in the magnitudes of both the mean flows and flow asymmetries cause an increasing net transport potential (erosion); decreases in these values spatially cause a decreasing net transport potential and thus deposition. These transport potentials are increased or decreased through the gravity potential induced by the local bed slope. Shore-parallel flow was important in explaining sediment flux and morphological change where orbital velocities, mean flows and flow asymmetries were at a minimum.     

Sediment flux and equilibrium slopes in a barred nearshore

Estimates of time-integrated values of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux and the associated changes in bed elevation and local slope were determined for a crescentic outer nearshore bar in Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, for eight discrete storm events. A 100 × 150 m grid of depth-of-activity rods spaced at 10 m intervals was used to monitor sediment behaviour on the seaward slope, bar crest and landward slope during the storms, at which time winds, incident waves and near-bed oscillatory currents were measured. Comparisons between storm events and between these events and a longer-term synthetic wave climatology were facilitated using hindcast wave parameters. Strong positive correlations between storm-wave conditions (significant height and total cumulative energy) and total volume flux contrasted strongly with the zero correlation between storm-wave conditions and net volume flux. ITVF values ranged up to 1646 m³ for the experimental grid and were found to have power function relations with significant wave height (exponent 2) and cumulative wave wave energy (exponent 0.4); values of INVF ranged from 0 up to 100 m³ for the same grid indicating a balance of sediment volume in the bar form through time. Sediment reactivation increased linearly with decreasing depth across the seaward slope and bar crest reaching maxima of 20 cm for the two largest storms; bed elevation, and thus slope, changes were restricted to the bar crest and upper landward slope with near zero morphological change on the seaward slope. The latter represents a steady-state equilibrium with null net transport of sediment under shoaling waves. Measurements of the asymmetry of orbital velocities close to the bed show that the energetics approach to predicting beach slope of Inman and Bagnold (1963) is sound. Gradients predicted vary from 0.01 to 0.03 for a range of angles of internal friction appropriate to the local sediment (tan ø = 0.3–0.6). These compare favorably with the measured seaward slope of 0.015 formed under average maximum orbital velocities of 1.12 m s⁻¹ (landward) and 1.09 m s⁻¹ (seaward) recorded during the period of the largest storm waves.     

Characteristics of bottom dissolved oxygen in Long Island Sound,New York

The variability of bottom dissolved oxygen (DO) in Long Island Sound, New York, is examined using water quality monitoring data collected by the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection from 1995 to 2004. Self-organizing map analysis indicates that hypoxia always occurs in the Narrows during summer and less frequently in the Western and the Central Basins. The primary factor controlling the bottom DO, changes spatially and temporally. For non-summer seasons, the levels of bottom DO are strongly associated with water temperature, which means DO availability is primarily driven by solubility. During summer, stratification intensifies under weak wind conditions and bottom DO starts to decrease and deviate from the saturation level except for stations in the Eastern Basin. For the westernmost and shallow (<15 m) stations, bottom DO is correlated with the density stratification (represented by difference between surface and bottom density). In contrast, at deep stations (>20 m), the relationship between oxygen depletion and stratification is not significant. For stations located west of the Central Basin, bottom DO continues to decrease during summer until it reaches its minimum when bottom temperature is around 19–20 °C. In most cases the recovery to saturation levels at the beginning of fall is fast, but not necessarily associated with increased wind mixing. Therefore, we propose that the DO recovery may be a manifestation of either the reduced microbial activity combined with the depletion of organic matter or horizontal exchange. Hypoxic volume is weakly correlated to the summer wind speed, spring total nitrogen, spring chlorophyll a, and maximum river discharge. When all variables are combined in a multiple regression, the coefficient of determination (r²) is 0.92. Surprisingly, the weakest variable is the total nitrogen, because when it is excluded the coefficient r² only drops to 0.84. Spring bloom seems to be an important source of organic carbon pool and biological uptake of oxygen plays a more crucial role in the seasonal evolution of bottom DO than previously thought. Our results indicate that the reassessment phase of the Long Island Sound Total Maximum Daily Load policy on nitrogen loading will most likely fail, because it ignores the contributions of the spring organic carbon pool and river discharge. Also, it is questionable whether the goal of 58.5% anthropogenic nitrogen load reduction is enough.     

Spatial and temporal variations in spectra of storm waves across a barred nearshore

Wave staffs and electromagnetic current meters were deployed on a profile across a two-bar system at Wendake Beach, southern Georgian Bay. This paper examines spatial and temporal changes in the characteristics of wave form, and the spectra of surface elevation and on-offshore current motion, during one storm. Non-linear effects of wave shoaling and breaking across the bars result in the appearance of secondary waves and both the wave and on-offshore current spectra have significant harmonic peaks during most of the storm. Significant low-frequency energy occurs only during the peak of the storm. While the peak frequency remains constant across the bar system, the proportion of energy in the primary peak is greatest in the troughs and lowest over the bar crests and there are similar changes in the proportion of energy in the first harmonic. However, in both surface elevation spectra and on-offshore current spectra, the greatest proportion of energy is found in frequencies related to the incident wind waves.     

Distribution and thickness of sedimentary facies in the coastal dune, beach and nearshore sedimentary system at Maspalomas, Canary Islands

Numerous studies have shown that most beaches and coastal dune systems of the world are currently eroding but very few have investigated the combined sediment budgets of subaerial and nearshore submarine systems. In the case of the dune field of the Maspalomas Natural Special Reserve (in the south of Gran Canaria), the adjacent Maspalomas and El Inglés beaches and the adjacent submarine platform, the sediment budgets have been severely affected by erosion over the past few decades. The objectives of this study were to investigate the availability of sand within the modern sedimentary system, including the coastal dunes, the beaches and the submerged shelf, but also to assess local sediment sinks. An isopach map generated on the basis of topo-bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles revealed that sediment thickness varies from 0–22 m in the study area. Expanses of relatively low sediment thickness were identified in the south-western sector of the coastal dune field along Maspalomas beach, and in the nearshore region to the south of this beach. These localized sediment-deficit areas earmark Maspalomas beach as the most vulnerable shore strip threatened by erosion. The shallow seismic data also revealed that the submarine platform south of Maspalomas represents a marine terrace cut into an ancient alluvial fan, thus documenting an influence of the geomorphological heritage on the present-day morphodynamics. A side-scan sonar mosaic of this nearshore platform enabled the delimitation of areas covered by rock, boulders and gravel, vegetated sand patches and a mobile sand facies, the latter including ripple and megaripple fields. The megaripple field in a valley close to the talus of the marine terrace has been identified as a major sediment sink of the Maspalomas sedimentary system. It is fed by south-westerly storm-wave events. The sediment deficit in the coastal dune field and along Maspalomas beach can therefore only be explained by a currently faster loss of sediment to an offshore sink than can be compensated by the supply of sand from outside the system.     

东山岛以东近岸海域水下沙丘及其环境

1990～1991年，我所对东山岛海域进行海底地形、底质调查、水文泥沙测验时发现：1）沿东山岛一古雷半岛的NNE、NE向断裂在海域呈现为落差可达20m左右“V”字型深糟；2）在东山岛东部10m等深线以东海域发育众多的水沙丘群，水深15m左右有一地形坡折线，水深20～25m海底为水下一级阶地。据底质粒度、石英电镜扫描、重矿物、地球化学指标等分析表明，水下沙丘群分布区的沉积为准残留沉积，水下一级阶地及水下沙丘为早期滨岸的准残留地貌作，又受到后期现代水动力的改造。     

Seismic Reflection and Vibracoring Studies of the Continental Shelf Offshore Central and Western Long Island,New York

The ridge-and-swale topography on the continental shelf south of Fire Island, New York, is characterized by northeast-trending linear shoals that are shore attached and shore oblique on the inner shelf and isolated and shore parallel on the middle shelf. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the ridges and swales occur independent of, and are not controlled by, the presence of internal structures (for example, filled tidal inlet channels, paleobarrier strata) or underlying structure (for example, high-relief Cretaceous unconformity). Grab samples of surficial sediments on the shelf south of Fire Island average 98 % sand. Locally, benthic fauna increase silt and clay content through fecal pellet production or increase the content of gravel-size material by contribution of their fragmented shell remains. Surficial sand on the ridges is unimodal at 0.33 mm (medium sand, about 50 mesh), and surficial sand in troughs is bimodal at 0.33 mm and 0.15 mm (fine sand, about 100 mesh). In addition to seismic studies, 26 vibracores were recovered from the continental shelf in state and federal waters from south of Rockaway and Long Beaches, Long Island, New York. Stratigraphic and sedimentological data gleaned from these cores were used to outline the geologic framework in the study area. A variety of sedimentary features were noted in the cores, including burrow-mottled sections of sand in a finer silty-sand, rhythmic lamination of sand and silty-sand that reflect cyclic changes in sediment transport, layers of shell hash and shells that probably represent tempestites, and changes from dark color to light color in the sediments that probably represent changes in the oxidation reduction conditions in the area with time. The stratigraphic units identified are an upper, generally oxidized,nearshore facies, an underlying fine-to medium-sand and silty-clay unit considered to be an estuarine facies, and a lower, coarse-grained, deeply oxidized, cross-laminated preHolocene unit. Grain-size analysis shows that medium-to fine-grained sand makes up most (68-99 %) of the surficial sediments. Gravel exists in trace amounts up to 19 %. Silt ranges between 3 % and 42 %, and clay ranges from 1 % to 10 %.     

Seismic Reflection and Vibracoring Studies of the Continental Shelf Offshore Central and Western Long Island, New York

The ridge-and-swale topography on the continental shelf south of Fire Island, New York, is characterized by northeast-trending linear shoals that are shore attached and shore oblique on the inner shelf and isolated and shore parallel on the middle shelf. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the ridges and swales occur independent of, and are not controlled by, the presence of internal structures (for example, filled tidal inlet channels, paleobarrier strata) or underlying structure (for example, high-relief Cretaceous unconformity). Grab samples of surficial sediments on the shelf south of Fire Island average 98 % sand. Locally, benthic fauna increase silt and clay content through fecal pellet production or increase the content of gravel-size material by contribution of their fragmented shell remains. Surficial sand on the ridges is unimodal at 0.33 mm (medium sand, about 50 mesh), and surficial sand in troughs is bimodal at 0.33 mm and 0.15 mm (fine sand, about 100 mesh). In addition to seismic studies, 26 vibracores were recovered from the continental shelf in state and federal waters from south of Rockaway and Long Beaches, Long Island, New York. Stratigraphic and sedimentological data gleaned from these cores were used to outline the geologic framework in the study area. A variety of sedimentary features were noted in the cores, including burrow-mottled sections of sand in a finer silty-sand, rhythmic lamination of sand and silty-sand that reflect cyclic changes in sediment transport, layers of shell hash and shells that probably represent tempestites, and changes from dark color to light color in the sediments that probably represent changes in the oxidation reduction conditions in the area with time. The stratigraphic units identified are an upper, generally oxidized,nearshore facies, an underlying fine-to medium-sand and silty-clay unit considered to be an estuarine facies, and a lower, coarse-grained, deeply oxidized, cross-laminated preHolocene unit. Grain-size analysis shows that medium-to fine-grained sand makes up most (68-99 %) of the surficial sediments. Gravel exists in trace amounts up to 19 %. Silt ranges between 3 % and 42 %, and clay ranges from 1 % to 10 %.     

High-resolution sediment echosounding off Peru: Late Quaternary depositional sequences and sedimentary structures of a current-dominated shelf

About 6000 km of both bathymetric and high-resolution acoustic profiles were acquired on the shelf and upper slope offshore Peru between 9° S and 14° S. Two new sediment echosounder systems – SEL-96 and SES-2000DS – provided details of the sedimentary structures of the Quaternary sequences within the Sechura-Salaverry, Huacho and Pisco Basins. To a great extent, the poleward undercurrent determines the distribution of sediments. The undercurrent has generated numerous erosional unconformities, it has winnowed hardgrounds and has created mudwaves common between 250 m and 400 m water depth. Distinct subbottom reflectors within sedimentary units represent hiatuses due to periods of intensified winnowing or non-deposition. Erosional unconformities usually marked by pronounced reflectors suggest shifts of the undercurrent system related to climatic changes and eustatic variations of sea level. On a larger scale, the stacked prograding depositional sequences reflect the sea-level cycles of the Middle Pleistocene to the Holocene. Based on the stratigraphy of our piston cores and that of Ocean Drilling Program (ODP) Site 680, the depositional sequences limited by extended unconformities were assigned to oxygen isotope stages 1 to 7. Other sedimentary structures are small straight channels that were conduits for downslope sediment transport. Deformed sediments associated with synsedimentary normal faults result from creep movements indicating beginning slope failure.     

Sediment macrobenthos off eastern Waiheke Island,Hauraki Gulf,New Zealand

Aspects of sea-bed structure and benthic-macroinvertebrate species composition, distribution, richness and diversity in coastal waters off eastern Waiheke Island, Hauraki Gulf, are reported. In contrast to the sole historical account of sea-bed community structure from this same region, no widely distributed assemblages of species are recognised throughout it; no two sites share the exact same complement of species; and almost all sites are less than 80% similar in their taxonomic composition, most considerably so. Species richness and diversity are reported to vary with substratum type and depth, and spatially; species occurring within muds are the least diverse and species rich, followed by those of muddy gravels, and then gravels; many taxa prove common to the three substratum types; and dominance of taxa is recognised to decrease with an increase in substratum complexity, from muds to gravels, and species richness. With the exception of invasive marine species, apparent changes in the composition of assemblages throughout this region over the eight-decade period that data span are considered artefacts of the way in which such assemblages were historically defined. We recommend historical accounts of sea-bed community distributions throughout Hauraki Gulf be interpreted with caution, especially when attempting to use such schematic depictions to determine whether changes have occurred in assemblage composition.     

Grain size parameters and sedimentary structures of a last Interglacial marine sand body,near Westport,New Zealand

Summary

Reids Rise is a remnant of a marine sand body that accumulated in the inner neritic zone of the continental shelf south‐west of Westport during the Last Interglacial. The sand body is notable for its spectacular sedimentary structures and consists of an upper unit that is characterised by trough cross‐lamination, locally forming mesoscopic ridges, and a lower unit that is characterised by horizontal lamination. The sand body is underlain by gravels of probable alluvial origin.

The trough cross‐laminated sets of the upper unit dip off near‐symmetrical ridges that probably formed as subaqueous bars. The dip azimuths of the cross‐laminae have a polymodal distribution with two bimodal maxima, one almost perpendicular to, and the second roughly parallel to the shoreline formed during the Last Interglacial. Magnitude of dip varies from horizontal to over 40°.

The sediment is clean, fine sand composed predominantly of angular grains. Sample to sample variation in grain size statistical parameters is small. The most notable feature is the extremely good sorting of the sand. Inclusive graphic standard deviation values range over 0.17–0.24? with 0.20? the modal value.

The mineralogy of the sand points to two main source areas, the Alpine metamorphic rocks to the south and south‐east, and the plutonic rocks of the Paparoa Range immediately east and south‐east of the study area.

The stratigraphic sequence is interpreted as being the product of deposition in a high energy, wave‐, tidal‐current‐, and longshore‐current‐dominated shallow neritic zone on an open coast during a transgressive cycle.     

系统聚类和主成分分析在现代沉积环境划分中的应用-以海南新村港潟湖为例

An understanding of the sedimentary environment in relation to its controlling factors is of great importance in coastal geomorphology,ecology,tourism and aquaculture studies.We attempt to deal with this issue,using a case study from the Xincun Lagoon,Hainan Island in southern China.For the study,surficial sediment samples were collected,together with hydrodynamic and bathymetric surveys,during August 2013.Numerical simulation was carried out to obtain high-spatial resolution tidal current data.The sediment samples were analyzed to derive mean grain size,sorting coefficient,skewness and kurtosis,together with the sand,silt and clay contents.The modern sedimentary environments were classified using system cluster and principal component analyses.Grain size analysis reveals that the sediments are characterized by extremely slightly sandy silty mud(ESSSM) and slightly silty sand(SSS),which are distributed in the central lagoon and near-shore shallow water areas,respectively.Mean grain size varies from 0 to 8.0Ф,with an average of 4.6Ф.The silt content is the highest,i.e.,52% on average,with the average contents of sand and clay being 43% and 5%,respectively.There exists a significant correlation between mean size and water depth,suggesting that the surficial sediments become finer with increasing water depth.Cluster analyses reveals two groups of samples.The first group is characterized by mean grain size of more than 5.5Ф,whilst the second group has mean grain size of below 3.5Ф.Further,these groups also have different correlations between mean grain size and the other grain size parameters.In terms of the tidal current,the average values of the root mean square velocity(RMSV) are 7.5 cm/s and 6.9 cm/s on springs and neaps,respectively.For the RMSVs that are higher than 4 cm/s,a significant positive correlation is found between the content of the 63–125 μm fraction and the RMSV,suggesting that the RMSV determines the variability of the very fine sand fraction.Based on system cluster and principal component analyses(PCA),the modern sedimentary environments are classified into three types according to the grain size parameters,RMSVs and water depth data.The results suggest the importance of grain size parameters and high-spatial resolution hydrodynamic data in differentiating the coastal sedimentary environments.     

Uptake of nitrogenous nutrients by phytoplankton in a barrier Island estuary: Great South Bay,New York

The uptake of urea, nitrate and ammonium by phytoplankton was measured using ¹⁵N isotopes over a one-year period in Great South Bay, a shallow coastal lagoon. The bay is a unique environment for the study of nutrient uptake since ambient concentrations of $\text{NO}{}_3{}^{\mathrm{?}}\text{NH}{}_4{}^{\mathrm{+}}$ and urea remain relatively high through the year, and phytoplankton are probably never nutrient limited. Urea nitrogen averaged 52% of the total assimilated, while ammonium represented 33% and nitrate 13%. High rates of ammonium uptake occurred only at low urea concentrations (ca< 1-μg-atom urea l^?1). Over the sampling period urea was present in relatively high concentrations, averaging 5·35 μg-atom N l^?1, while means for ammonium and nitrate averaged 1·94 and 0·65 μg-atom N l^?1, respectively. Total N uptake measured with ¹⁵N averaged about 3·3 times the calculated (from elemental ratios and ¹⁴C productivity measurements) N needs of the phytoplankton population. Highest nitrogen uptake occurred in the summer and coincided with the primary production maximum.     

From and migration of sand waves in a large estuary,Long Island Sound

Sand waves occur in eastern Long Island Sound with heights up to 4 m and lengths to 100 m. The waves do not form if either more than 10% mud or 12% coarse sand is present in the sediment. Mud suppresses wave formation by increasing the cohesion of the sediment. Sand-wave shape is independent of the water depth, d, provided the sand-wave height, H, is smaller than 0.86 d^1.19. Both symmetric and asymmetric wave forms are present. Observation of the migration of sand waves by repeated bathymetric surveys indicates a net sand flux greater than 0.01 cm³ cm^?1 sec^?1 in the direction faced by the steep slopes of the waves (i.e. westward, into the Sound). Under this sand flux, waves more than 30 cm high will not be measurably altered by a reversal of the semidiurnal tidal current.     

Long-term shoreline response of a nontidal,barred coast

Long-term variations of shoreline positions along the southern Baltic coast were investigated using multichannel singular spectrum analysis (MSSA) to determine the most dominant long-term response patterns. The investigated beach is located at Lubiatowo on the Polish Coast and is mildly sloping with multiple bars. Data on coastal morphology have been collected at Lubiatowo including (1) bathymetric surveys since 1987 twice a year, and (2) beach topography surveys since 1983 every 4 weeks on the average, extending from the shoreline to the dune foot. Furthermore, several dedicated field campaigns have been carried out at Lubiatowo, as well as measurements of deep-water wave properties since 1998. MSSA was employed to the whole data set of shoreline position from all survey lines. In summary, three patterns emerged reproducing alongshore standing waves with different periods 7 to 8, 20+ and several decades. They represent long-term shoreline response, such that at some locations the longest wave is most predominant, at other locations the medium cycle predominates, whereas the shortest is the most prominent at yet other locations. However, all three can be detected at every location monitored, eliminating the confusion resulting from ordinary singular spectrum analysis (SSA) analysis, done previously for the same data set.     

Contourites offshore Pantelleria Island (Sicily Channel, Mediterranean Sea): depositional, erosional and biogenic elements

High-resolution seismic reflection profiles and multibeam bathymetry data collected in 2006 and 2008 around Pantelleria Island show the widespread occurrence of contourite drifts and erosional elements ~30?km from the narrowest part (~145?km) of the Sicily Channel, where water masses from the Eastern Mediterranean flow towards the Western Mediterranean. The contourite drifts are rather small (up to 10?km long and 3.3?km wide), at water depths of ~250?C750?m. Most are elongated separated drifts with quite well-developed moats and crests, aligned roughly parallel to the regional bathymetric contours. Erosional elements include abraded surfaces, moats, scours and sub-circular depressions. In addition, a wide sector of the seafloor adjacent to a seamount located SW of Pantelleria Island is characterized by numerous biogenic build-ups colonized by deep-water corals (Madrepora oculata). The spatial distribution of sediment drifts, erosional features and biogenic build-ups suggests an origin from a north-westward-flowing bottom current, in this case the outflow of Levantine Intermediate Water and transitional Eastern Mediterranean Deep Water via the Sicily Channel. These findings for the Pantelleria offshore sector demonstrate that contourite processes are able to concentrate a high variety of closely spaced depositional and erosional features even in small areas (in this case, about 2,000?km²). This Pantelleria focusing can plausibly be related to a particular configuration of the prevailing bottom-current regime in complex interaction with an uneven bathymetry shaped mainly by tectonic and volcanic activity. The distribution of bottom currents seems to be strongly influenced by morphological features ranging from major seabed obstacles, such as the Pantelleria volcanic complex and the so-called southwest seamount, to smaller-scale escarpments and banks. This is consistent with previous findings for Mediterranean and other settings characterized by neotectonics and large topographic features.