共转换点道集的抽取与转换波时变静校正

纵横波速度比固定时,同一地震道中各时间采样点对应不同的转换点位置,因此,常规的整体抽道方法只能抽取特定深度或特定层位条件下的共转换点道集,它不能保证所有P-SV转换波的反射点位置都在同一水平位置处。提出了一种精确抽取共转换点道集的新方法,运用这种方法抽取的共转换点道集中所有数据对应的转换点在地面的投影都对应于同一位置,因此,该道集是一种真正意义上的共转换点道集,在此基础上提出了一种解决短波长问题的转换波时变静校正方法,实际资料处理取得了好的效果。     

欧拉模型模拟波浪的抑制数值耗散效应的一种简单方法

数值波浪水槽是研究波浪及波浪与结构相互作用的常用工具,可在真实尺度下产生波浪,并提供流场的详细数据。然而,大部分数值波浪水槽都存在数值耗散和数值色散问题,数值耗散使波能缓慢消散,数值弥散在波传播过程中使波频移。本文在有限差分法（FDM）求解欧拉方程的基础上,提出了一种抑制数值耗散效应的简单方法,考虑阻尼项的影响,对波的传播解进行了解析求解。该方法的主要思想是在动量方程中附加一个源项,其强度由数值阻尼效应的强度决定。本文通过对规则线性波、Stokes波和不规则波的数值模拟,验证了该方法的有效性。结果表明,本文方法可有效减小数值波浪水槽中存在的数值耗散现象。     

一种更有效的测量短波的方法

使用传统的在海底（或海底以上几米处）固定压力测波仪的方法观测波浪,因水层的滤波作用而无法有效地观测到高频短波。本文提出一种新的观测方法－使用悬挂压力测波仪的方法观测波浪。通过数值方法模拟与实际比较吻合的波面。然后模拟固定压力测波仪和悬挂坟力测波仪两种不同的方法获取此波面的水下压力记录曲线。应用传统谱分析的方法得到各自的压力频谱,再根据不同的情况分别换算成表面谱。通过数值的方法可以证明使用悬挂压力测     

一种计算有限水深波能功率的新方法

海洋波浪能平均功率的准确计算是波浪能开发和利用的基础。实践中,波浪能转换装置一般安装在有限水深区域。对于随机波,只有当详尽的波浪谱已知的时候,有限水深区的波能功率才能被准确计算出来。由于种种原因,实践中波浪的实测数据大多以散点图或有义波高和统计波周期的形式给出,而波浪谱信息有时则很难获得。基于这种情况,传统上人们利用无限水深条件下的相关公式来估算有限水深区域的波能功率,但这种做法会造成较大的误差。本研究显示,对于50 m水深的理论波谱JONSWAP谱来说该误差高达14.6%。为了提高波能功率计算的准确性,本文提出了一种基于能量频率的一阶和二阶近似算法,可以在未知波浪谱的情况下较为准确地计算不同水深时的波能功率。针对两种理论波浪谱的计算结果表明,本方法在计算有限带宽内的波能功率时计算误差低于2.8%。     

基于海浪谱的沉箱式防波堤动力分析方法

利用海浪谱JONSWAP谱生成随机波浪,并结合改进的波浪力时程模型生成一个连续的、持续时间相对较长的随机波浪力作用过程。假设五十年设计基准期内防波堤每年遭受一次风暴,利用波浪谱随机生成五十次风暴波浪作用过程,对防波堤五十年设计基准期的响应过程进行一次随机模拟,以此作为一个样本。经过对大量随机模拟产生的样本进行统计分析,实现对防波堤整个设计基准期内的安全度进行概率评估。最后,通过算例对该方法的应用进行了演示。     

一种利用浮标站资料改进海浪模式有效波高预报的方法

基于浮标站海浪历史数据,利用回归分析方法建立了海浪数值模式有效波高预报产品的一元二次回归方程订正统计模型。通过2017年7月1日-2018年10月10日期间业务试运行结果发现:订正方程能有效改善有效波高数值预报产品的预报精度,且预报时效越短订正效果越显著。其中,第6~11 h预报时效内的订正前后平均绝对误差值减小0.17~0. 241 m,第6~18 h预报时效内订正前后均方根误差减小幅度为0.103~0. 28 m。这说明应用订正统计模型对海浪模式输出产品进行订正,也是改进海浪模式预报准确率的一种有效途径。     

Verification of significant wave representation method

The significant wave representation method is the simplest method for computing the transformation of significant wave height across-shore. However, many engineers are reluctant to use this method because many researchers have pointed out that the method possibly contains a large estimation error. Nevertheless, Rattanapitikon et al. [Rattanapitikon, W., Karunchintadit, R., Shibayama, T., 2003. Irregular wave height transformation using representative wave approach. Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE 45(3), 489–510.] showed that the wave representation method could be used to compute the transformation of root mean square wave heights. It may also be possible to use it for computing the significant wave height transformation. Therefore, this study was carried out to examine the possibility of simulating significant wave height transformation across-shore by using the significant wave representation method. Laboratory data from small- and large-scale wave flumes were used to calibrate and examine the models. Six regular wave models were applied directly to irregular waves by using the significant wave height and spectral peak period. The examination showed that three regular wave models (with new coefficients) could be used to compute the significant wave height transformation with very good accuracy. On the strength of both accuracy and simplicity of the three models, a suitable model is recommended for computing the significant wave height transformation. The suitable model was also modified for better predictions. The modified model (with different coefficients) can be used to compute either regular wave height or significant wave height transformation across-shore.     

Automated trinocular stereo imaging system for three-dimensional surface wave measurements

A novel automated trinocular stereo imaging system (ATSIS) is developed for non-intrusively measuring the temporal evolution of three-dimensional wave characteristics. The system consists of three progressive digital cameras to provide three independent stereo-pairs, i.e. left–right, left–center, and center–right, for accurately estimating depth of a scene. A third camera assists to resolve correspondence problems due to specular reflection on the water surface and provides additional constraints on image matching, dramatically reducing the chance of a mismatch. An oblique configuration for the trinocular system effectively increases spatial coverage, allowing observations of wave phenomena over a broad range of spatial scales. The height resolution is increased with the optical axes of the cameras pointed at an oblique angle with respect to vertical surface wave displacements. A new exterior calibration procedure is developed in this paper to determine the orientation of cameras in the field. Field experiments demonstrate that ATSIS can robustly measure hundreds of matched image points in seconds, allowing fast extraction of the temporal evolution of a three-dimensional surface wave field.     

一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定波向的方法

船用X波段雷达被广泛应用于海洋表面波观测和研究。本文给出了一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定主波传播方向的方法。X波段雷达图像中的海浪信号具有明显的尺度性和方向性。同时,curvelet变换作为一种同时具备尺度分辨率和方向分辨率的数学变换,能够对一幅雷达图像在不同尺度、不同方向和不同位置上进行分析。对一幅雷达图像进行curvelet分解并获得curvelet系数后,波浪信号主要集中在某些特定尺度和方向的curvelet系数中,从而我们可以获得带有 方向模糊的波传播方向。进而,通过计算几幅连续采集图像的互相关系数可以消除 方向模糊。同步观测的雷达图像和浮标数据证明了该方法的有效性。     

Virtual wave gauges based upon stereo imaging for measuring surface wave characteristics

A virtual wave gauge (VWG) technique based on stereo imaging is developed to remotely measure water wave height, period, and direction. VWG minimizes computational costs by directly tracking the elevation of the water surface at selected points of interest using a Eulerian based dynamic searching algorithm. Results show that the VWG technique developed in this paper dramatically improves efficiency by two orders of magnitude compared to the traditional Lagrangian–Eulerian based point cloud method of stereo image processing. VWG is tested against traditional wave wire gauges to within 98% accuracy for significant wave height. Furthermore, the flexibility of the VWG is demonstrated in two field applications. First in an offshore breaking wave case, an array of VWGs is used to efficiently measure wave directionality. Second to investigate the reflection coefficient of a rock-mounted structure interacting with nearshore waves, linear and spatial VWG arrays are designed and implemented based on a priori information of the wave field from a preliminary VWG measurement. Overall, we demonstrate that the flexible and computational efficient VWG technique has the potential to make real-time remote stereo imaging wave measurements a reality.     

A weakly non-gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave train

The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping.