An experimental study of rip channel flow

A laboratory study of the flow over a bar with a single rip channel has been performed. First, the well-known pattern of a bar circulation cell with a strong offshore-directed current out through the rip channel and a weaker onshore-directed return flow over the bar is documented. Then measurements of the three-dimensional structure of the flow in the area where the rip channel, the bar and the trough meet and well inside the rip channel are presented. These measurements reveal that 3D effects play an important role, and that a depth-integrated viewpoint may not always be sufficient for predicting the flow in the near bed region. Particle-tracking experiments illustrate the near bed flow pattern over the entire area. These demonstrate how the overall trajectory pattern changes as a function of the distance of wave breaking from the bar crest: For some conditions, the rip current is fed from the trough and for other conditions it is fed directly from the bar. Both the 3D measurements and the trajectory tests show the existence of a weaker onshore-directed near-bed drift in the area where the rip current ceases. Finally, in a series of sensitivity tests, measurements of the rip current intensity for different wave climate and water level conditions reveal a strong correlation between the rip current intensity and the wave height (both normalized).     

Recognition of down-valley translation in tidally influenced meandering fluvial deposits,Athabasca Oil Sands (Cretaceous), Alberta,Canada

The vast Athabasca Oil Sands of Alberta, Canada has an estimated resource of more than 1.7 trillion barrels of bitumen in-place, the majority of which is hosted in the Lower Cretaceous McMurray Formation. Despite its economical significance the depositional environment of the formation, and particularly the middle part that is the primary reservoir in most areas, is still a matter of considerable debate. These strata of interest are widely known to comprise fluvial and estuarine point bar deposits that were subject to varying degrees of marine influence. The orientation of point bar strata from the formation is tabulated and the majority is observed to dip paleo-basinward, to the north. This observation has proven difficult to explain by geologists attempting to build predictive models for the formation over the last two decades. However, the basinward-dipping point bar strata can be attributed to widespread down-valley translation of point bars in confined north-south oriented valleys, which have previously been delineated in the region. Differentiating the deposits of lateral point bar migration and down-valley translation in the rock record is not possible at the facies scale, and thus translated point bars have not been previously recognized or interpreted in the rock record, despite their prevalence in numerous modern fluvial valley systems. Their identification in the McMurray Formation has important implications for the delineation and development of Canada’s economically significant oil sands resources.     

A residual analysis method for quantitative comparison of spatial data from the Iceland-Faeroes Front

A spatial statistical method has been developed from the well-known Kriging technique in geostatistics, as a way of providing quantitative comparison between a pair of spatial data sets, and a measure for such a comparison. This residual analysis method is applied to oceanographic data in order to compare Iceland-Faeroes Front (IFF) model predictions against appropriate field observations, with an aim to assess the IFF model performance and its prediction accuracy. The method is also used to evaluate the model-generated dynamical variability within the model predictions, as well as the natural variability within the frontal observations. From the results, it has been found that the IFF model is highly robust, and gives better predictions at depth 150–350 m than elsewhere. Within such a depth (i.e. 250–350 m), there is also evidence to suggest that the main frontal region is most active above the IF Ridge. The natural variability obtained from the observations appears to be comparable to the model-generated dynamical variability after 20 days of integration, indicating a certain degree of accuracy in the model predictions. The method reported in this paper could also be extended for further use in model data assimilation. Thus, the work not only demonstrates how spatial statistics can be applied to oceanographic data, but also opens up new statistical tools for data handling in ocean modelling.     

孤岛油田南区东部曲流河沉积结构单元分析

曲流河储层是我国石油资源的重要载体,但是目前研究主要还停留在微相级别,叠置点坝的划分对比研究还稍显薄弱。研究利用“层次分析”方法,通过分析河道砂体顶面高程差、出现不连续河间砂体、过井地震剖面的波形差异、平面上的砂体厚度差异等四个方面,有效地在复合河道中划分出单一河道。通过对砂体垂向沉积层序、砂体厚度分布及废弃河道位置的分析可以识别出点坝沉积;利用“砂顶泥岩厚度法”可以快速识别地下废弃河道,确定点坝沉积的边界;根据Leeder计算河流满岸宽度经验公式及点坝长度与河流满岸宽度的相关公式可以确定点坝沉积的规模。     

Orientation of Sandhoppers Under Natural Conditions in Repeated Trials: an Analysis Using Longitudinal Directional Data

Zonal recovery is a prompt escape towards the sea performed by sandhoppers under stressful environmental conditions. Differences in habitat features, meteorological conditions during the tests and morphological characteristics of the individuals are all factors affecting orientation. This paper deals with the temporal variation of the orientation of a sandhopper sample, taking into account the effect of some environmental and morphological variables on these changes. The directions chosen by single animals in repeated trials under natural conditions were analysed, using longitudinal circular data. The longitudinal analysis highlights several details about three different kinds of intrapopulation variation due to: sun, wind and eye left/right asymmetry. A clear link between the successive directional responses is demonstrated as well as modulation of behaviour with time: the animals stabilise orientation towards a certain direction in successive trials. The use of longitudinal sets of data in orientation studies produces a good synthesis of directional behaviour, due to several advantages of this kind of analysis. These include the fact that the association between successive behaviours and variability through repeated trials is taken into account; a progressive improvement, due to the integration of information from previous experiences, can be detected; the role of the main cues and factors affecting orientation is more accurately defined; and more parsimonious statistical models can be used to fit the data.     

Statistics from Lagrangian observations

We review statistical analyses of Lagrangian data from the ocean. These can be grouped into studies involving single particles and those with pairs or groups of particles. Single particle studies are the most common. The prevalent analysis involves binning velocities geographically to estimate the Eulerian means and lateral diffusivities. However single particle statistics have also been used to study Rossby wave propagation, the influence of bottom topography and eddy heat fluxes. Other studies have used stochastic models to simulate dispersion, calculated Lagrangian frequency spectra and examined the relation between Lagrangian and Eulerian integral scales. Studies involving pairs of particles are fewer, and the results are not well-established yet. There are indications that pair separations grow exponentially in time below the deformation radius, as is also the case in the stratosphere. The behavior at larger scales is less clear, indicating either a turbulent cascade or dispersion by the sheared large-scale circulation. In addition, three or more particles can be used to measure relative vorticity and divergence.     

Stochastic bivariate time series models of waves in the North Sea and their application in simulation-based design

In this paper, we present and evaluate three long-term wave models for application in simulation-based design of ships and marine structures. Designers and researchers often rely on historical weather data as a source for ocean area characteristics based on hindcast datasets or in-situ measurements. The limited access and size of historical datasets reduces repeatability of simulations and analyses, making it difficult to assess the sampling variability of performance and loads on marine vessels and structures. Markov, VAR and VARMA wave models, producing independent long-term time series of significant wave height (H_s) and spectral peak period (T_p), is presented as possible solutions to this problem. The models are tested and compared by addressing how the models affect interpretation of design concepts and the ability to replicate statistical and physical characteristics of the wave process. Our results show that the VAR and VARMA models perform sufficiently in describing design performance, but does not capture the physical process fully. The Markov model is found to perform worst of the tested models in the applied tests, especially for measures covering several consecutive sea states.     

Reduction of geoid gradient error in ocean variability from satellite altimetry

Altimeter measurements of sea‐level variability have errors due to the altimeter not repeatedly sampling the same point on the ocean surface. The errors are proportional to the local slope of the mean sea surface. Accurate removal of geoid error is essential if altimeter data are to be used to study the relationship between geostrophic turbulence and bathymetry. The error can be reduced by using an accurate model of the mean surface. We use the multiyear TOPEX altimeter data set to develop a model for the mean sea surface along the TOPEX/POSEIDON ground track by estimating the coefficients of a local plane centered on every 2 km x 7 km bin sampled by the altimeter. We have evaluated the ability of this model. compared against two global mean sea‐surface models, to reduce the error associated with steep gradients. The two global models are the Center for Space Research 1995 model and the Ohio State University 1995 model. The three models show similar variability over the oceans, and none shows the large residual errors that can be seen in collinear analysis near some seamounts and trenches. The standard deviation of the variability using the plane model, however, is consistently smaller in low‐variability, high‐geoid‐gradient areas, indicating a slightly better performance than the two global models.     

Dynamic models for Icelandic meteorological data sets

Dynamic models are derived from pairs of time series of daily surface and 500 hPa height observations in the Icelandic region in order to interpret these data. The models describe the motion of data points in the phase plane spanned by a pair of variables. For each pair, a regression model of first order (R-model) is derived, which assumes linear motion in the phase plane. The coefficients of the corresponding Fokker–Planck equation (FP) are also derived from the data. This equation describes changes of the probability density distribution of the data pair and takes nonlinear aspects into account. The data are interpreted in the light of both models. The R-model yields a mean rotation and convergence which characterize the basic type of motion inherent in a data set. It is found in all cases that the timescale of contraction is shorter than the "dynamic" timescale linked to the rotation. The FP equation yields a mean motion which resembles quite often that in the R-model as well as a diffusive part. The R-model is not satisfactory in some cases which involve the meridional surface winds. For example, southerlies (northerlies) and temperature rotate clockwise (anticlockwise). Meridional and zonal surface winds rotate anticlockwise in a southerly flow, but clockwise in a northerly one. Therefore, new aspects of the Icelandic meteorology can be extracted form the data by use of the FP equation.     

Variable orientation within a natural population of the sandhopper Talitrus saltator (Crustacea: Amphipoda) as a response to a variable environment: The case-study of Berkoukesh beach,Tunisia

Sandy beaches are harsh environments, driving resident arthropod populations to various typical adaptations, particularly behavioural ones. Here we evaluated the effects of seasonal meteorological variability on the behaviour of Talitrus saltator on Berkoukesh beach (N-W Tunisia). The site is characterised by a Mediterranean climate, but is particularly exposed to seasonal winds and storms. The shoreline is in morphodynamic equilibrium. We tested sandhopper Talitrus saltator orientation in April, when sudden rainfall and storms are common, and in June, when as a rule the weather is warm and dry. The results were analysed with circular statistics and multiple regression models adapted to angular distributions, in order to highlight differences in orientation under the various conditions. Depending on the environmental conditions, amphipods from the same population appeared to utilise various orientation strategies as a response to different environmental constraints. The use of a range of behavioural mechanisms (sun-orientation seaward, sun-orientation landward, and phototaxis) resulted in links to the local landscape and to the animals’ life cycle. As a general conclusion, we can infer that the behavioural variability found within the same population represents a response to seasonal environmental fluctuation. Such an increase in variability is likely to develop on a beach in dynamic equilibrium, where landscape references are stable, and a variable behaviour represents a strategy for dealing with environmental fluctuations.     

Nearshore bar crest location quantified from time-averaged X-band radar images

The remote sensing of the sea surface is commonly regarded as a logistically simple and cost-effective way of obtaining long-term (>years) time series of nearshore sandbar location. In this paper, we demonstrate that, similar to video imagery, time-exposure X-band (∼3 cm wave length) radar images contain alongshore, breaking-related high-intensity bands that can be used to compute the location of the underlying sandbar crests. Analysis of time-exposure X-band images and bathymetric surveys collected at Egmond aan Zee, Netherlands shows that the radar-based bar crest location, defined as the cross-shore location of maximum radar intensity, differs from the in situ surveyed crest location by a distance of O(10 m). This difference, Δx̄_radar, depends linearly on the offshore water level, consistent with model predictions in which the radar intensity is assumed to behave as the energy of the surface roller. The model additionally suggests a dependence of Δx̄_radar on the offshore wave height when the wave field across the bar is non-saturated. In general, such wave conditions did not result in radar images with sufficient contrast to determine the bar crest location and, accordingly, the wave-height dependence was not observed clearly in the field. Because of the dependence of Δx̄_radar on the offshore water level, time series of radar-based bar crest location show artificial variability when the images are collected at different water levels. Various techniques for correcting this variability are discussed.     

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

The MSY concept in a multi-objective fisheries environment – Lessons from the North Sea

One of the most important goals in current fisheries management is to maintain or restore stocks above levels that can produce the maximum sustainable yield (MSY). However, it may not be feasible to achieve MSY simultaneously for multiple species because of trade-offs that result from interactions between species, mixed fisheries and the multiple objectives of stakeholders. The premise in this study is that MSY is a concept that needs adaptation, not wholesale replacement. The approach chosen to identify trade-offs and stakeholder preferences involved a process of consulting and discussing options with stakeholders as well as scenario modelling with bio-economic and multi-species models. It is difficult to intuitively anticipate the consequences of complex trade-offs and it is also complicated to address them from a political point of view. However, scenario modelling showed that the current approach of treating each stock separately and ignoring trade-offs may result in unacceptable ecosystem, economic or social effects in North Sea fisheries. Setting F_MSY as a management target without any flexibility for compromises may lead to disappointment for some of the stakeholders. To treat F_MSY no longer as a point estimate but rather as a “Pretty Good Yield” within sustainable ranges was seen as a promising way forward to avoid unacceptable outcomes when trying to fish all stocks simultaneously at F_MSY. This study gives insights on how inclusive governance can help to reach consensus in difficult political processes, and how science can be used to make informed decisions inside a multi-dimensional trade-off space.     

Top-down modeling and bottom-up dynamics: Linking a fisheries-based ecosystem model with climate hypotheses in the Northern California Current

In this paper we present results from dynamic simulations of the Northern California Current ecosystem, based on historical estimates of fishing mortality, relative fishing effort, and climate forcing. Climate can affect ecosystem productivity and dynamics both from the bottom-up (through short- and long-term variability in primary and secondary production) as well as from the top-down (through variability in the abundance and spatial distribution of key predators). We have explored how the simplistic application of climate forcing through both bottom-up and top-down mechanisms improves the fit of the model dynamics to observed population trends and reported catches for exploited components of the ecosystem. We find that using climate as either a bottom-up or a top-down forcing mechanism results in substantial improvements in model performance, such that much of the variability observed in single species models and dynamics can be replicated in a multi-species approach. Using multiple climate variables (both bottom-up and top-down) simultaneously did not provide significant improvement over a model with only one forcing. In general, results suggest that there do not appear to be strong trophic interactions among many of the longer-lived, slower-growing rockfish, roundfish and flatfish in this ecosystem, although strong interactions were observed in shrimp, salmon and small flatfish populations where high turnover and predation rates have been coupled with substantial changes in many predator populations over the last 40 years.     

Simulating the effect of subseismic fault tails and process zones in a siliciclastic reservoir analogue: Implications for aquifer support and trap definition

Subsurface, intra-reservoir faults have subseismic portions (the fault tail) and process zones that must be considered for a complete evaluation of their role in a reservoir setting. In this paper we show that this subseismic fault domain, generally associated with all seismically mappable faults, may extend several hundred meters beyond the seismically mapped tip point, depending on vertical seismic resolution and fault displacement gradients along strike. We use reservoir modelling and fluid flow simulation of a sandstone reservoir analogue to demonstrate how a low-permeable process zone may generate steep pressure gradients in the reservoir and affect the tortuosity of reservoir fluid flow. Results and examples combined show how small adjustments in fault interpretations in the subseismic domain may significantly affect trap definition, prospect volumes, project economics and selection of exploration well locations. For production settings, we demonstrate how low-permeable fault tails and process zones may increase flow tortuosity and delay water breakthrough, thereby enhancing sweep efficiency and recovery from otherwise bypassed pockets of hydrocarbons in the reservoir. The results also indicate that process zones may contribute to pressure compartmentalization. Finally, a simple methodology for the estimation of subseismic fault continuity is presented.     

Long-term variability of shelf water intrusion and its influence on hydrographic and biogeochemical properties of the Seto Inland Sea, Japan

The variability of the pathway of the Kuroshio is known to control that of the intensity of upwelling of the cold and nutrient-rich deep shelf water at the shelf-break point. This study has investigated the influences of the long-term variability of the hydrographical and biogeochemical conditions at the shelf-break point on those in the inner Seto Inland Sea. Results from observations conducted since 1972 by prefectural fisheries observatories showed a temporary decrease of temperature in the lower layer of the entrance of Kii Channel in summertime in the specific years when the Kuroshio pathway favored deep shelf water intrusion. A corresponding change in temperature was also found in the inner shelf sea, such as western Osaka Bay and Harima-Nada. The model developed in this study covers a 30-year period and well reproduces the temporal change in temperature. It also shows sufficient reproducibility in both seasonal behavior of hydrographical and biogeochemical properties and the inter-annual variability of hydrographical properties throughout the eastern Seto Inland Sea. It was found that the inter-annual variations of annual total flux through the section at the entrance to Kii Channel affect the inter-annual variation of the observed concentration of Dissolved Inorganic Nitrogen (DIN) in Harima Nada, but the effect was smaller than those of river input and other parameters.     

Sedimentology of a subtidal,tide-dominated sand body in the Yellow Sea,southwest Korea

Odanam Satoe, a subtidal, tide-dominated sand body in the Yellow Sea, Korea, is linear in plan and asymmetrical in cross-section. It consists of fine- to medium-grained, well-sorted subangular sand. Bedforms consist of high-amplitude (1–2 m) sandwaves on the lower flanks of the gentler-sloping bar surface, and medium-amplitude (0.5-1 m) sandwaves on the sand body trough adjoining the steeper face, the bar crest and shallower parts of the gently sloping bar surface. Bedforms are absent on the relatively steeper bar surface, which is characterized by 2° slopes. Bedform orientation on the gentler slope is oblique by 30° to the bar crest, parallel to the sand-body crest on the crest itself, and opposite to the steeper sand-body face in the trough below the steeper slope of the bar.Bottom current velocity data show that tidal currents are semi-rotary with a flood time—velocity asymmetry over the gentler slope, and ebb time—velocity asymmetry over the steeper slope during most of the tidal cycle. Tidal-current flow parallels bar elongation over the steeper slope, whereas over the gentler slope, tidal-current flow is directed at 30° to the bar crest and changes to normal to the crest one hour prior to low tide. Bedform orientation mapped with side-scan sonar shows agreement with these flow directions.Sand dispersal around the sand body is controlled by time—velocity asymmetry and partial rotary flow directions of tidal currents. This circulation causes not only a trapezoidal mode of grain dispersal, but also westerly migration of the sand body documented from comparative bathymetric surveys in 1964 and 1980.     

Scale-dependent effects of nutrient loads and climatic conditions on benthic and pelagic communities in the Gulf of Finland

Eutrophication and climate change are ranked among the most serious threats to the stability of marine ecosystems worldwide. The effects of nutrient loads and climatic conditions vary in direction, magnitude and spatial extent. To date the factors that are behind the scale-specific spatial and temporal variability are poorly known. In this study we assessed how variability in nutrient loads and climatic conditions at local, gulf and regional scales explained the spatial patterns and temporal trends of zooplankton and benthic invertebrates in the Gulf of Finland. In general both local and gulf scale environmental variability had an important effect on benthic invertebrate species and the variability was mainly due to local nutrient loading, gulf scale temperature and salinity patterns. Zooplankton species were equally affected by environmental variability at all spatial scales, and all nutrient load and climatic condition variables contributed to the models. The combination of variables at all spatial scales did not explain the substantially larger proportion in invertebrate variability than variables at any individual scale. This suggests that large-scale pressures such as nutrient loads and change of climatic conditions may define broad patterns of distribution but within these patterns small-scale environmental variability significantly modifies the response of communities to these large-scale pressures.     

Bars formed by horizontal diffusion of suspended sediment

The mechanism responsible for the ubiquitous presence of convex beach profiles and shoreward migration of linear bars is examined using numerical circulation and sediment transport models. The models are validated against laboratory measurements and observed natural beach cross-sections. While not discounting the importance of infragravity and advective horizontal circulation or bed-return flow mechanisms, a robust diffusive process explains the convex profile shape and bar formation. In the presence of concentration gradients across the surf zone, a diffusive sediment flux from high to low concentration results in the transfer of sediment outwards from the breakpoint, both onshore and offshore, and the subsequent formation of a “diffusion bar” and “diffusion profile”. The profiles are characterised by single- and double-convex dome-like shapes, developing during shoreward migration of the bars by the diffusion mechanism. The mechanism explains several phenomena observed on natural beaches, including (i) convex beach profiles; (ii) shoreward migration of the bar with concomitant beach accretion under narrow-band swell; (iii) reduced propensity for bar formation on low-gradient, fine-sand beaches or under wide-band wave spectra (even though multiple bars are common on some low-gradient beaches) and (iv) offshore migration of the bar during periods of increasing wave height. The diffusion mechanism can be dependent on orbital motion alone and, as such, requires no frequency selection or strong correlation between multiple processes for bar formation.     

Precision in systematic trawl surveys as assessed from replicate sampling by parallel trawling off Namibia

Following independence of Namibia in 1990, abundance of that country's hake stocks was monitored by trawl surveys conducted by the Norwegian F.R.V. Dr Fridtjof Nansen using a systematic survey design. Precision from such designs is considered to be better than with a random design, but it cannot be quantified through standard analysis of variance. In 1998 and 1999, the trawl surveys were duplicated in full using a commercial trawler that operated in parallel with the Dr Fridtjof Nansen. Both vessels had the same fishing gear and rigging. In both years, biomass and distribution patterns estimated by the vessels were similar. The paired datasets collected from the surveys were used to analyse variability in the point samples. Absolute differences between pairs of catches were, in general, proportional to the catch, but they varied randomly following a normal distribution around the catch level. Local variability was analysed as random noise, modelled and later reapplied on single vessel data series to evaluate the effect of sample size and replicates on the survey mean. In a survey with 200 stations, local sample noise accounted for about 4% of the variability in the survey mean. Alternatively, running series of simulated surveys by bootstrapping on pairs of catch data gave similar results, when a small systematic vessel effect was adjusted for. The main statistical techniques applied were less susceptible to outlier catches than straightforward correlations or regressions and could therefore, perhaps with some advantage, also be used to estimate the vessel factor when intercalibrating trawl survey vessels.