Seasonal impact on beach morphology and the status of heavy mineral deposition – central Tamil Nadu coast,India

The aim of the present research was to investigate the seasonal impact on nearshore beach dynamics and the status of heavy mineral distribution along central Tamil Nadu coast, India. Beach profile measurements were made in 10 profiling sites between Thirukadaiyur and Velankanni on monthly and seasonal basis from January 2011 to July 2012. Using beach profile data, variation in beach width, slope and volumetric changes have been calculated. Beach slope and nearshore wave parameters were used to quantify the longshore sediment transport rate. Beaches between Thirukadaiyur and Karaikkal attained predominant transport rate in northern direction whereas, the rest of the beaches are in southern direction. The seasonal action of wind and wave currents create nearshore bar during northeast (NE) monsoon and frequent berms at tidal zone during southwest (SW) monsoon. Surface sediment samples were collected in each location for quantifying the heavy mineral weight percentage during the period of pre- and post-Thane cyclone. Sediments were also studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD) to evaluate the changes and occurrence of heavy minerals in beach sands. The XRD results show that sediments in the study area have enriched heavy mineral distribution even after strong cyclonic event. It confirms the redistribution of heavy mineral deposits present in the coast. The results suggested that monsoonal action has influenced the seasonal changes in beach morphology and it does not affect the heavy mineral distribution.     

Spectral characteristics of the nearshore waves off Paradip,India during monsoon and extreme events

Spectral and statistical wave parameters obtained from the measured time series wave data off Paradip, east coast of India during May 1996–January 1997 were analysed along with MIKE 21 spectral wave model (SW) results. Statistical wave parameters and directional wave energy spectra distinctly separate out the wave conditions that prevailed off Paradip in the monsoon, fair weather and extreme weather events during the above period. Frequency-energy spectra during extreme events are single peaked, and the maximum energy distribution is in a narrow frequency band with an average directional spreading of 20°. Spectra for other seasons are multi-peaked, and energy is distributed over a wide range of frequencies and directions. The NCEP re-analysis winds were used in the model, and the results clearly bring out the wave features during depressions. The simulated wave parameters reasonably show good match with the measurements. For example, the correlation coefficient between the measured and modelled significant wave height is 0.87 and the bias −0.25.     

Beach and nearshore morphodynamic changes of the Tabarka coast,Northwest of Tunisia

Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics.     

Application of wave transformation models for estimation of morphological changes at Vellar estuary,southeast coast of India

Assessment of the wave climate at near coast is vital for estimation of morphological changes, such as growth of sand spit and associated siltation of tidal inlets. Vellar (bar-built) estuary is one of the prominent estuaries along the southeast coast of India, located at 11°30′N and 79°46′E, less studied in terms of its morphological features. The inlet of Vellar is exposed to high energetic waves, inducing large sediment transport rates and shoreline changes. Local wave characteristics are not accurately defined and the available wave information at near coast is limited (point based observations). In the present study, three decoupled numerical models are employed to derive the monthly nearshore wave climate at Vellar by transforming waves from deep water to nearshore. These models are independently validated with buoy observations in deep water and wave gauge data at nearshore. Based on the nearshore wave data, littoral drift along the coast was estimated and compared with the spit growth at Vellar inlet. The estimated average littoral drift along this coast from February to October is 1.93 × 10⁶ m³ toward north and from November to January it is 1.52 × 10⁶ m³ toward south, resulting in a net northerly drift. Results indicated that increase in the wave energy during the period of July to September is responsible for the maximum growth of the sand spit observed in the field.     

A comparative study on uncooperative search models in survivor search and rescue

The storm impact scale of Sallenger (J Coast Res 890–895, 2000) was tested on a partially engineered beach. This scale is supposed to provide a convenient tool for coastal managers to categorize the storm impact at the shore. It is based on the relation between the elevation of storm wave runup and the elevation of a critical geomorphic or man-made structures in the present study. Two different approaches were tested to estimate the elevation of extreme storm wave runup: (1) a parametric model based on offshore wave conditions and local beach slope and (2) the XBeach process-based model that solves implicitly the runup. The study shows comparisons between impact regimes computed with the two methods and those derived from video observations acquired during 2 weeks while the site was battered by three consecutive storms. Storms scenario including wave conditions with higher return periods and different tidal range were also investigated. The advantages and disadvantages of the two methods used to compute extreme water level are then compared, and guidelines for the development of early warning system are drawn.     

Demarcation of inland vessels’ limit off Mormugao port region,India: a pilot study for the safety of inland vessels using wave modelling

The Ministry of Shipping desires to revise the inland vessels’ limit (IVL) notification based on scientific rationale to improve the safety of vessels and onboard personnel. The Mormugao port region extending up to the Panaji was considered for this pilot study. Measured winds and wave parameters (AWS and moored buoy) as well as NCEP re-analysis and NCMRWF winds were used for the analysis and input to regional and local models. The results of wave model were validated with measured significant wave heights (SWHs) and the comparison shows a good match. The analysis indicates that SWHs do not exceed 2.0 m during non-monsoon months, and in monsoon months exceed 5.0 m, and even 7.0 m, especially during extreme events. In order to draw IVL contours for Goa coastal region, local model was set up and nearshore waves were simulated for the period May 2004–May 2005. Based on the nearshore SWH distribution, IVL contours have been fixed for the Mormugao port and Panaji coastal regions.     

Comparative Hydrodynamics during Events along a Barrier Island: Explanation for Overwash

A fairly undeveloped barrier island along the mid-Atlantic coast, Onslow Beach, was exposed to two differing, yet sequential meteorological events in the fall of 2008. The response of the barrier island differed significantly enough to warrant investigation into the causes of aberrant overwash locations. Tropical Storm Hanna generated high significant wave heights for a short period of time and caused overwash events along the southern portion of Onslow Beach. The Nor’easter and subsequent wind shift after TS Hanna generated significant wave heights that were lower than during TS Hanna, yet more locations of overwash were recorded along the beach. Data from NOAA wave buoys and a nearshore deployed AWAC were analyzed to understand the underlying physics behind the recorded differences in barrier island response. These data were also used to validate a coupled hydrodynamic (ADCIRC) and waves (SWAN) model to investigate the alongshore variability. Low frequency variability, on the order of days, and tidal timing of shoreward high significant wave heights contributed to the recorded variability.     

Changes in beach gravel lithology caused by anthropogenic activities along the southern coast of Lake Michigan, USA

The southern coast of Lake Michigan is the most urbanized and most densely populated area in the Great Lakes region. Development of steel mills, harbors, and municipalities in NW Indiana and in NE Illinois in the last century and a half altered the nearshore environment so much that native beach gravel (>8 mm) now exist only in the exhumed paleo-beach remnants from the Nipissing Phase (~4,500 years ago) of Lake Michigan. Native gravel, collected from paleo-beach remnants at Mount Baldy Dune and Beach House Blowout, contain predominantly beach shingle, very platy siltstones (71–78 %), with secondary crystalline pebbles (18 %) in the east, and carbonate pebbles (12 %) in the west. A large amount of anthropogenic fill (steel industry waste, waste from power generating plants, construction debris, railroad, and road fill) has been added since the late 1800s to fill Lake Michigan and expand industrial land. Four areas of major coastal structures—Michigan City Pier and Breakwater, Burns Harbor Pier and Breakwater, Gary Works Pier, and Indiana Harbor Peninsula—altered the natural littoral drift and created four independent sectors on Indiana’s coast—Northeastern, Eastern, Central, and Western—between which no natural transfers of coarse sediments occur. Downdrift from the coastal structures, severe beach erosion has prompted extensive beach nourishment with non-native sandy gravel. Four distinct populations of modern beach gravel now exist along Indiana’s coast of Lake Michigan: (1) native gravel with diluted beach nourishment influence, (2) native gravel with a minor industrial influence, (3) compact gravel of nourished origin, and (4) anthropogenic gravel of industrial origin. Native gravel with diluted nourishment influence is found in the western, downdrift areas of the Northeastern (from Long Beach to Washington Park Beach) and Eastern Sectors (from eastern Indiana Dunes State Park to western Dune Acres) and contains up to 40 % compact carbonate and crystalline pebbles in addition to native beach shingle. Native gravel with minor industrial influence is found in the Central Sector of Indiana’s coast (from central Ogden Dunes to Marquette Beach) and contains predominantly beach shingle, platy clastic lithology, but also up to 30 % of chert and other pebbles released by industry. Compact gravel of nourished origin contains 60–90 % of carbonate and crystalline pebbles, and is found in the eastern, updrift areas of the Northeastern (Michiana Beach and Duneland Beach) and Eastern Sectors (from Crescent Beach to the western Beverly Shores). Anthropogenic gravel of industrial origin contains 70–90 % compact chert and slag and is found in every beach of the Western Sector and in the westernmost beach of the Central Sector. Streams draining into southern Lake Michigan generally contain little coarse sediment except in their channels near the roads and railroads, where angular to subangular anthropogenic pebbles predominate (70–90 %). However, streams have very little influence on gravel lithology along the coast because they seldom discharge anthropogenic gravel into Lake Michigan. Recent changes in gravel lithology along the southern Lake Michigan coast may affect changes in nearshore benthic flora and fauna as well as algal and bacterial blooms during warm summer months.     

Beach erosion and acceretion—An example from Kerala,Southwest Coast of India

The thickly populated coastal zone of Kerala, India is facing severe problems due to attack of high waves during the southwest monsoon. Systematic beach profiling at 5-km intervals was carried out along the 560-km stretch of the Kerala coast during the pre-and postmonsoon seasons in 1984. Beach volume changes were calculated at each profile station, and the erosional and accretional trends for the entire coastal tract were demarcated in a map. Total erosion along 55 stations is 1276 m³/m. The general erosional and acceretional trends were also found to coincide with diverging and converging littoral currents deduced from the wave refraction diagrams. Such study at periodic intervals will be highly useful for proper management of the coastal zone.     

Seasonal controls on surface pCO2 in the central and eastern Arabian Sea

The variability in partial pressure of carbon dioxide (pCO₂) and its control by biological and physical processes in the mixed layer (ML) of the central and eastern Arabian Sea during inter-monsoon, northeast monsoon, and southwest monsoon seasons were studied. The ML varied from 80–120 m during NE monsoon, 60–80 m and 20–30 m during SW- and inter-monsoon seasons, respectively, and the variability resulted from different physical processes. Significant seasonal variability was found in pCO₂ levels. During SW monsoon, coastal waters contain two contrasting regimes; (a) pCO₂ levels of 520–685 μatm were observed in the SW coast of India, the highest found so far from this region, driven by intense upwelling and (b) low levels of pCO₂ (266 μatm) were found associated with monsoonal fresh water influx. It varied in ranges of 416–527 μatm and 375–446 μatm during inter- and NE monsoon, respectively, in coastal waters with higher values occurring in the north. The central Arabian Sea pCO₂ levels were 351–433, 379–475 and 385–432 μatm during NE-inter and SW monsoon seasons, respectively. The mixed layer pCO₂ relations with temperature, oxygen, chlorophylla and primary production revealed that the former is largely regulated by physical processes during SW- and NE monsoon whereas both physical and biological processes are important in inter-monsoon. Application of Louanchiet al (1996) model revealed that the mixing effect is the dominant during monsoons, however, the biological effect is equally significant during SW monsoon whereas thermodynamics and fluxes influence during inter-monsoons.     

Alongshore variation in the rip current hazard at Pensacola Beach, Florida

Many drowning and near drownings at Pensacola Beach, Florida are attributed to rip currents, the strong seaward-flowing currents that extend from the shoreline to the line of breakers and sometimes beyond. While surf forecasts assume that the rip hazard is uniform alongshore and that the (erosion) rips are ephemeral features, evidence is presented to suggest that the rip hazard at Pensacola Beach is not uniform alongshore. Rather the rip current “hotspots” develop as a consequence of an alongshore variation in the surf similarity parameter and nearshore state on the order of ~1,450 m. The variation is forced by transverse ridges on the inner shelf that force wave refraction and focusing at the ridge crests. This creates a more dissipative, rhythmic bar and beach morphology at the ridges and rougher surf. Between ridges, where wave heights and periods are smaller and the outermost bar is forced closer to the shoreline, the nearshore is in a (more reflective) bar and rip state during red flag conditions. Drownings between 2000 and 2009 are shown to be clustered between transverse ridges and in the years following a hurricane or tropical storm (2000–2003 and 2005–2008) when the bar and rip morphology first develops as the shore face recovers. This continues until the innermost bar attaches to the beach face unless the bar system is reset by another tropical storm or hurricane. It is argued that the rip hazard is dependent on the alongshore covariation of the environmental forcing with the individual and group behavior in both time and space, even on what appears to be a relatively uniform beach environment.     

Erosion and accretion rates and their associated sediment characters along Ras El Bar coast,northeast Nile Delta,Egypt

Beach profile data, covering the coast of Ras El Bar, northeast Nile Delta, collected during the years from 1990 to 2002 combined with landsat images for the area and sedimentological investigation have been used to identify beach and nearshore seafloor sediment changes. Along the coast of Ras El Bar, two accretion sectors and one of erosion have been recognized. The first accretion sector is located west of Damietta harbour, where the harbour jetties have halted the littoral transport, while the second one is behind a system of detached breakwaters protecting Ras El Bar resort. Both the two sectors are characterized by growing shoreline with maximum rates ∼15 and 10 m/year, respectively. Also, they have maximum nearshore seafloor accretion rates of ∼18 and 22 cm/year, respectively. The erosion sector is located east of Damietta port and has a maximum rate of shoreline retreat ∼−10 m/year. Erosion of its nearshore seafloor is indicated recording a maximum rate of ∼−20 cm/year. The rate of net sediment volume change in the area indicates shifting of the accretion sector (II) westward, responding to installation of the new breakwaters unit. The two accretion sectors are characterized by dominance of moderately sorted fine sands in their shore area which change seaward into less sorting very fine sands. Beach sands of the eroded sector are poorly sorted medium grain size. The dominant constituents of heavy mineral species in beach and sea-bottom sands are the characteristic assemblages of the Nile deposits. The sands of the eroded zone are relatively enriched in monazite, zircon, tourmaline, garnet, and rutile.     

Interaction of monsoonal wave, current and tide near Gopalpur, east coast of India, and their impact on beach profile: a case study

A 97-day-long record on waves and currents was obtained using wave rider buoy and current meter moored at 2.5 km off Gopalpur from 19 May to 23 August 2008 representing southwest monsoon months. A Valeport tide gauge was used to record water level at Gopalpur port. Simultaneously, beach profiles at 4 transects were monitored using real-time kinematic (RTK) global positioning system (GPS). A total of 636,167 waves were analyzed for the period; a range of 3,200–9,700 waves approach the coast in an individual day. During the study, unusual characteristics of wave were observed on July 29, 2008, with a magnitude of significant wave height, H_s = 2.85 m, maximum wave height, H_max = 5.22 m, and peak wave period, T_p = 10.2 s, and on August 11, 2008, with H_s = 2.28 m, H_max = 5.37 m, and T_p = 11.1 s. Significant beach loss was noticed during these periods, and severe erosion was recorded on August 1, 2008. Beach profile data indicates that 18–58 cu. m/m sediment was lost during the study period. The paper provides an overview of the statistical analysis of wave heights, periods, direction, and spectral energy density and explains the cause of coastal erosion and loss of sediment.     

Longshore grain size trends in the Kakinada-Mulapeta Beach,east coast of India

Shore-normal and shore-parallel variations in grain size statistics of beach sand have been studied over a period of one year along the Kakinada-Mulapeta coast. The southern beaches of this coast have been accretionary while the northern ones erosional since 125 years. The grain size gradings, beach and nearshore processes help in identifying (i) the Groins-fishing harbour beach influenced predominantly by the tidal regime. (ii) the Mulapeta-Vakalapudi beach influenced by refracted wave regime and (iii) the Vakalapudi-fishing harbour beach affected by both wave and tidal regimes at relatively subdued levels.     

三亚海岸演变与人工海滩设计研究*

三亚海岸位于海南岛南部,属弱潮海区,以来自开阔外海的偏南向风浪为海岸优势动力。三亚海岸经历了从基岩港湾海岸到岬角与港湾相间的海蚀-海积海岸的发育演化过程,沙坝(沙咀)发育始于中更新世初期,珊瑚礁发育始于8kaB.P. ,目前海岸总体处于相对平衡发展阶段。对三亚地区海岸地貌、动力及泥沙运动的调查研究,总结三亚湾及其周边不同类型海滩的特点,提取其海滩参数。依据处于不同发展时期的自然海滩形成演变的条件和规律,设计建构三亚白排人工海滩的关键参数。设计海滩总长度约400m,宽度\{40~\}50m,坡度4.5°~5.0°,相对高度约2m,填砂M_为0.5,以粒径1.0~\}0.5mm的粗砂为主,总填砂量48000m³。从滩面物质和滩面坡度两个关键方面,利用代表性的数学模型,检验了设计海滩的稳定性。本项研究旨在服务白排人工海滩建设,研究方法对海滩侵蚀防护与同类海岸工程建设等具有参考价值。     

International viewpoint and news

The investigations were carried out in order to evaluate change of the beaches profile during the period 1993–2008 and to elucidate main trends of the coastal dynamics. Morphometric indicators (beach width, height and inclination) were measured every year during the period 1993–2008 in 70 measuring stations located along the coastline. It was determined that the dynamic shoreline of the mainland during 1993–2008 receded by 10.2 m and the dynamic shoreline of the Curonian Spit advanced into the sea by 8.3 m. The different morphometric beach indicators changed to varying extents over the period 1993–2008, but comparison of values for 1993 and 2008 showed that those changes were small. The average beach width increased by 1.2 m on the mainland coast and by 0.5 m on the Curonian Spit coast. The average beach height also increased negligibly: by 0.5 m on the mainland coast and by 0.1 m on the Curonian Spit coast. The average beach slope inclination increased by 0.012 (from 0.065 to 0.077) on the mainland coast and by 0.005 (from 0.073 to 0.078) on the Curonian Spit coast. The measurements show that, despite being the most dynamic elements in the coastal system, these beaches managed to retain their morphometric indicators almost unchanged during the period of observation.     

Changes in beach water table elevation during neap and spring tides on a sandy estuarine beach, Delaware Bay, New Jersey

A field investigation of temporal and spatial changes in wind and wave characteristics, runup and beach water table elevation was conducted on the foreshore of an estuarine beach in Delaware Bay during neap (April 9, 1995) and spring (April 16, 1995) tides under low wave-energy conditions. The beach has a relatively steep, sandy foreshore and semi-diurnal tides with a mean range of 1.6 m and a mean spring range of 1.9 m. Data from a pressure transducer placed on the low tide terrace reveal a rate of rise and fall of the water level on April 16 of 0.09 mm s⁻¹ resulting in a steeper tidal curve than the neap tide on April 9. Data from three pressure transducers placed in wells in the intertidal foreshore reveal that the landward slope of the water table during the rising neap tide was lower than the slope during spring tide, and there was a slower rate of fall of the beach water table relative to the fall of the tide. Wave heights were lower on April 9 (significant height from 17.1 min records <0.16 m). The water table elevation was 0.08 m higher than the water in the bay at the time of high water, when maximum runup elevation was 0.29 m above high water and maximum runup width was 2.0 m. The elevation of the water table was 0.13 m higher than the maximum elevation of water level in the bay 74 min after high water, when wave height was 0.12 m and wave period was 2.7 s. The use of mean bay water level at high tide will underpredict the elevation of the water table in the beach, and demarcation of biological sampling stations across the intertidal profile based on mean tide conditions will not accurately reflect the water content of the sandy beach matrix.     

Liquefaction potential of coastal slopes induced by solitary waves

Tsunami runup and drawdown can cause liquefaction failure of coastal fine sand slopes due to the generation of high excess pore pressure and the reduction of the effective over burden pressure during the drawdown. The region immediately seaward of the initial shoreline is the most susceptible to tsunami-induced liquefaction failure because the water level drops significantly below the still water level during the set down phase of the drawdown. The objective of this work is to develop and validate a numerical model to assess the potential for tsunami-induced liquefaction failure of coastal sandy slopes. The transient pressure distribution acting on the slope due to wave runup and drawdown is computed by solving for the hybrid Boussinesq—nonlinear shallow water equations using a finite volume method. The subsurface pore water pressure and deformation fields are solved simultaneously using a finite element method. Two different soil constitutive models have been examined: a linear elastic model and a non-associative Mohr–Coulomb model. The numerical methods are validated by comparing the results with analytical models, and with experimental measurements from a large-scale laboratory study of breaking solitary waves over a planar fine sand beach. Good comparisons were observed from both the analytical and experimental validation studies. Numerical case studies are shown for a full-scale simulation of a 10-m solitary wave over a 1:15 and 1:5 sloped fine sand beach. The results show that the soil near the bed surface, particularly along the seepage face, is at risk to liquefaction failure. The depth of the seepage face increases and the width of the seepage face decreases with increasing bed slope. The rate of bed surface loading and unloading due to wave runup and drawdown, respectively, also increases with increasing bed slope. Consequently, the case with the steeper slope is more susceptible to liquefaction failure due to the higher hydraulic gradient. The analysis also suggests that the results are strongly influenced by the soil permeability and relative compressibility between the pore fluid and solid skeleton, and that a coupled solid/fluid formulation is needed for the soil solver. Finally, the results show the drawdown pore pressure response is strongly influenced by nonlinear material behavior for the full-scale simulation.     

Coarse‐sand beach ridges at Cowley Beach,north‐eastern Australia: Their formative processes and potential as records of tropical cyclone history

Storm surges generated by tropical cyclones have been considered a primary process for building coarse‐sand beach ridges along the north‐eastern Queensland coast, Australia. This interpretation has led to the development of palaeotempestology based on the beach ridges. To better identify the sedimentary processes responsible for these ridges, a high‐resolution chronostratigraphic analysis of a series of ridges was carried out at Cowley Beach, Queensland, a meso‐tidal beach system with a >3 m tide range. Optically stimulated luminescence ages indicate that 10 ridges accreted seaward over the last 2500 to 2700 years. The ridge crests sit +3·5 to 5·1 m above Australian Height Datum (ca mean sea‐level). A ground‐penetrating radar profile shows two distinct radar facies, both of which are dissected by truncation surfaces. Hummocky structures in the upper facies indicate that the nucleus of the beach ridge forms as a berm at +2·5 m Australian Height Datum, equivalent to the fair‐weather swash limit during high tide. The lower facies comprises a sequence of seaward‐dipping reflections. Beach progradation thus occurs via fair‐weather‐wave accretion of sand, with erosion by storm waves resulting in a sporadic sedimentary record. The ridge deposits above the fair‐weather swash limit are primarily composed of coarse and medium sands with pumice gravels and are largely emplaced during surge events. Inundation of the ridges is more likely to occur in relation to a cyclone passing during high tide. The ridges may also include an aeolian component as cyclonic winds can transport beach sand inland, especially during low tide, and some layers above +2·5 m Australian Height Datum are finer than aeolian ripples found on the backshore. Coarse‐sand ridges at Cowley Beach are thus products of fair‐weather swash and cyclone inundation modulated by tides. Knowledge of this composite depositional process can better inform the development of robust palaeoenvironmental reconstructions from the ridges.