The statistical distributions for the elevation,velocity and acceleration of the surface of wind waves

Water surface elevations(t), vertical surface velocities and vertical surface acceleration of wind-generated waves have been measured in a laboratory wind wave channel by using resistance-type wave gauges combined with an electronic differentiation circuits. Probability distributions of the values of(t), , and have been determined from the wave records.In an initial stage of wave generation,i.e., when wind waves are generated at short fetches and low wind speeds, the observed distributions for(t), and are appreciately good fit to the distributions given by successive sum of a Gram-Charlier series, which has been derived following the formulation ofLonguet-Higgins (1963), by taking the weakly nonlinear effect into account.However, when wind waves develop with increasing wind speeds and fetches, the observed distributions deviate gradually from the Gram-Charlier series. Particularly, the deviations are remarkable for the distribution of .When the wind speed increases, the observed distributions of(t), and show the following characteristics: (i) the skewnesses of the distributions of(t) and decrease slightly, (ii) the skewness of changes, at some wind speed, from positive small values to relatively large negative values, (iii) the kurtosis of the distribution of(t) decreases slightly but that of increases slightly and these characteristics seem to depend not so much on fetches, (iv) the kurtosis of the distribution of increases rapidly.     

In-water algorithms for ADEOS/OCTS

In-water algorithms for OCTS standard products were developed using in situ data and installed for operationally processing at NASDA/EOC. This paper describes the in-water algorithms Version 1.0 for chlorophylla concentration, pigment concentration, and attenuation coefficient at a wavelength of 490 nm. The selected OCTS standard algorithms (Ver. 1.0) are as follows:      

The separation of flow past a circular cylinder on aβ-plane

Effects of the Ekman friction on the prograde (eastward) flows past a cylinder on a-plane are investigated when (=R ²/U, whereR is the cylinder radius andU the freestream speed)O(1) and(=2E _k ^1/2/R ₀·O(1) where is the non-dimensional beta parameter and the ratio of the square root of the Ekman numberE _k multiplied by 2 to the Rossby numberRo multiplied by the aspect ratio(=H/R, whereH is the fluid depth). Previous studies without the Ekman friction have shown that the-effect inhibits flow separation for pragrade flows through the asymptotic boundary condition by shifting the region of the adverse pressure gradient toward the rear stagnation point. It is found that the Ekman friction alleviates this-effect on the exterior flow. In the E_k ^1/4-boundary layer, on the other hand, Ekman friction suppresses the vorticity advection along the wall, which tends to make the boundary layer thickness thin and delay the flow separation. The Ekman friction thus affects flow separation in a complicated manner. Details of the boundary layer structures and the separation angles are described for 0.3< <4.0 and 0.1<<1.5.     

Nonlinear properties of laboratory wind waves at energy containing frequencies

Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K ₃=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K ₄=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness , but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed . It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies.     

The roughness height and drag law over the water surface based on the hypothesis of local equilibrium

A series of measurements of winds and wind-waves were carried out in wind-wave flumes. A data analysis based on the hypothesis of local equilibrium yielded a new empirical formula on the controversial quantity of roughness heightz ₀ over the water surface: , where the nondimensional roughness height is defined bygz ₀/u _* ² and the wave-wind parameterũ byω _p u _*/g, g being the gravitational acceleration,u _* the friction velocity of air,ω _p the peak frequency of wind-wave spectra. The obtained formula is compared with Charnock's (1955) and Toba's (1979) proposals; is constant in the former and inversely proportional toũ in the latter. As in Toba's, this formula immediately leads to a practically important conclusion that the drag coefficientC _d depends not merely on the usual variableU ₁₀ (wind velocity at 10m height over the water surface), but also on the surface state represented by wind-waves. An explicit expression is provided for the drag coefficient incorporating the wave-wind parameter; it covers the range ofC _d calculated from most of the previous drag formulas, by varying the wave-wind parameter.     

Relation between mean and variance in catch numbers of fish egg and larva

In each of six areas with various horizontal scale from 0.4 to 15.6 nautical miles, many surveys with vertical net hauls are made for sampling fish eggs and larvae. Though values ofC _A are widely spread in each area, the variances ² and the meanm of catch numbers calculated from each survey follow approximately the relation from a Poisson mixture model (PMM).

Contribution of breaking internal waves to structure formation,energy dissipation,and vertical diffusion in the ocean

The relationship between the scale of the spectral minimum of the first differences in temperature fluctuationsL and the local value of the Väisälä-Brunt frequencyN has been analysed using the results of more than 600 soundings made in various regions of the world's oceans. Allowing for the series of theoretical and experimental indications of the fact that the vertical scaleL at the boundary between the fine structure and microstructure in the ocean exists under the effect of processes of breaking of internal waves and hydrodynamic instability with the formation of turbulent patches, and using the energy relationships, the relationship for a solitary patch has been derived through the determining parameters. Based on two expressions forL, derived experimentally and using the energy estimations, the relationships for the averaged rate of absorption of the wave field energy by patches and the coefficient of the density vertical diffusion are derived, which do not contradict a series of independent estimations fromin situ measurements.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Volume transport of the western boundary current penetrating into a marginal sea

The amount of penetration of a western boundary current into a marginal sea which is connected to an open ocean by two narrow straits is estimated from a linear, steady and barotropic theoretical model. In this model the western boundary current in the open ocean is driven by a wind stress imposed at the sea surface. The inflow of the water of the open ocean into the marginal sea is caused by the pressure difference between two straits produced by the wind-driven circulation in the open ocean.Main external parameters are combined into two non-dimensional parameters; and (the ratio of the depth of the marginal sea to that of the open ocean), whereb is the distance between north and south boundaries of the ocean,D ₀ is the depth of the open ocean, is the latitudinal variation of the Coriolis parameter andR is the coefficient of friction. The friction is assumed to be proportional to the flow velocity.In the limit of infinite the volume transport into the marginal sea is not affected by the width of two straits and . It is mainly controlled by the wind stress and the positions of two straits. For finite values of , however, the volume transport depends considerably on and the width of the straits.Guided by both this model and physical considerations, we obtained a relation between the volume transport into the marginal sea and the external parameters. This relation predicts that about 2 % of the volume transport of the Kuroshio penetrates into the Japan Sea.     

On Seasonal and Year to Year Variation in Flow of the Alaskan Stream in the Central North Pacific

The Alaskan Stream is the westward boundary current of the North Pacific subarctic gyre. In the central region of the North Pacific, the Alaskan Stream serves as a connection between the Alaskan gyre, Western subarctic gyre and Bering Sea gyre. Its volume transport is very important in estimating the magnitude of the subarctic circulation in the North Pacific. In order to clarify its seasonal and interannual variation, we conducted observations along a north-south section at 180° during June from 1990 to 1997. Moorings were deployed from 1995 to 1997. Hydrographic casts were made at intervals of 37 km to a depth of 3000 m. Moorings were set between CTD stations, with Moor1 (Moor2) at the center (southern edge) of the Alaskan Stream. Geostrophic volume transport (referred to 3000 m) revealed large interannual variability in the Alaskan Stream. Average volume transport over the 8 years was 27.5 × 10⁶ m³s^-1 with a standard deviation of 6.5 × 10⁶ m³s^-1. Maximum transport was 41.0 × 10⁶ m³s^-1 (1997) and minimum was 21.7 × 10⁶ m³s^-1 (1995). Stable westward flows were observed at Moor1 1500 m (259°, 11.7 cm s^-1) and 3000 m (240°, 3.7 cm s^-1, 1996–1997 year average). The ratio of eddy to mean kinetic energy (KE/ ) was very small (<0.6) throughout the year. A relatively weak and unstable westward flow was observed at Moor2 at 3000 m depth. Conversely, the average flow direction at Moor2 5000 m was eastward.     

Measurements of east Tushima Current in winter and estimation of its seasonal variability

The Tushima Current in the east channel was measured in a site of the strong current between Tushima and Iki Islands for 43 days of the winter in 1986. The primary results are:First, it was highly barotropic and flowed northeastward with a mean speed of about 20 cm sec^–1. Second, it was decelerated by northeast winds rather than by northwest winds in a frequency range of 0.3 and 0.4 cpd. Third, the scale analysis showed that the Tushima Current is approximately in geostrophic balance. The best empirical relationship between the measured Tushima Current and cross-channel adjusted sea level difference is given by

Estimation of spectral refractive index of colloidal sulfur at 20°C

In the marine environment, colloidal sulfurs often occur due to the redox reaction of sulfide ions and oxygen molecules. It is important to know the spectral refractive index of colloidal sulfurs for the discussion of the light scattering in the region where colloidal sulfurs are formed. We presented new methods to estimate the refractive index from the wave length of maximum absorbance (turbidity) of a nearly mono-dispersed colloidal solution. In these methods, the ripples in a first main maximum of the scattering efficiency,Q _sca , were taken into consideration. By virtue of these methods, we obtained the spectral refractive index of colloidal sulfurs,m _s (), at 20°C. The Cauchy's expression of it was given by

Radiation balance and heat budget at the ocean/atmosphere interface in the western North Pacific

The downward short- and long-wave radiation fluxes at the sea surface (S, L) were measured aboard the R/VHakuho Maru, University of Tokyo, for the period of 117 days on six cruises from 1981 to 1985 in the western North Pacific near Japan. The upward fluxes of short- and long-wave radiation (S, L) were calculated by Payne's (1972) table and the Stefan-Boltzmann's law, respectively. The sensible and laten heat fluxes (Q _h ,Q _e ) were also estimated from an aerodynamic bulk method.From April to August, the daily mean value ofS varied with the amplitude of 100200 Wm^–2. The value ofS was estimated approximately 6% ofS in all seasons. The difference betweenL andL was so small that the net radiation flux (Q _n ) was dominated byS. In addition, the net heat flux at the sea surface was also dominated byS due to small values ofQ _h andQ _e , and then the ocean was warmed at the rate of 111 Wm^–2 in April and 63 Wm^–2 in August in the Oyashio Area, and 132 Wm^–2 in May and 164 Wm^–2 in June in the Kuroshio Area, respectively.From September to March, a remarkable negative correlation between the day to day variation ofS and that ofL was observed except when an intense cold air outbreak occurred. It was found that the correlation was caused by the cloud climatological feature of the western North Pacific in this period.S was not a dominant factor in the net heat flux. The value ofQ _h +Q _e in the Kuroshio Area ranged from 260 Wm^–2 to 630 Wm^–2, much larger thanQ _n which ranged from –8 Wm^–2 to 92 Wm^–2 in the leg mean values (each leg period was about 10 days). Then the ocean was cooled at the rate of –160–620 Wm^–2 during this period. The net heat flux in the Kuroshio Area averaged over five legs from late November to February was –473 Wm^–2. This value is 50100% larger than the climatological values reported so far.The temporal and spatial variability of radiation fluxes and heat fluxes during each leg was also discussed.     

Dilution of North Pacific Intermediate Water studied with chlorofluorocarbons

Assessment was made of residual ratio of North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW) produced in subpolar region of the North Pacific using chlorofluorocarbons, CFC-11 and CFC-12 (CCl₃F and CCl₂F₂), along 175°E. NPIW on density horizons less than 26.80 remained more than 80% north of 30°N. It was suggested that new NPIW laterally spreads over the northern North Pacific without hardly being diluted by the surroundings. For density horizons greater than 26.80 north of 30°N, NPIW remained less than 60%. The difference in the residual ratio between <26.80 and >26.80 north of 30°N suggests that NPIW is produced on density horizons less than 26.80, which contacts the atmosphere in the subpolar region, and that NPIW is diluted by upwelling deep water on density horizons greater than 26.80 in high latitude of the North Pacific. NPIW on a density horizon of 26.80 remained about 50% south of 30°N. The decrease in the horizontal distribution of the residual ratio of NPIW suggests that half the new NPIW produced in the subpolar region is laterally spread over the North Pacific with the southward movement of NPIW.     

Dissolved Folin Phenol Active Substances (Tannin and Lignin) in the Seawater along the West Coast of India

Information on the distribution of dissolved Folin phenol active substances (FPAS) such as tannin and lignin in the seawater along the west coast of India is provided. Notable amounts of FPAS (surface concentrations: 80 g/l to 147 g/l and bottom concentrations: 80 g/l to 116 g/l) were detected in the seawater along the coast. The distribution pattern brings about a general depth-wise decrease. A seaward decrease was observed in the southern stations whereas reverse was the case in northern stations. A significant negative correlation was observed between FPAS concentration and dissolved oxygen in sub-surface samples. The appreciable amounts of FPAS detected in the coastal waters indicate the presence of organic matter principally originating from terrestrial (upland and coastal marsh) ecosystems in the marine environment. In this context, they may be used as tracers to determine the fate of coastalborn dissolved organic matter in the ocean and to determine directly the relationship between allochthonous and autochthonous organic matter.     

Sediment velocity estimation using iterative 3-D migrations of short offset seismic reflection data in deep water

In deep ocean settings where water depth greatly exceeds the source-to-receiver length, the geometry is insufficient for accurate determinations of velocity from reflection-moveout. However, velocities are crucial for estimates of physical properties and image processing. Focusing analyses with conventional post-stack two-dimensional migration improves images, but does not produce geologically meaningful velocities except in the special case of a two-dimensional earth. For the more general case of the three-dimensional earth there is no a priori method to determine the degree of geometrical complexity. We present a technique using a short-offset three-dimensional (3-D) data set over the 5 km deep trench west of the Lesser Antilles. These data illustrate highly sensitive post-stack 3-D focusing analyses (± 20 m s^–1 interval velocities), and the relationship of these seismically derived velocities to rock velocities. In our Barbados example we were able to establish the presence of a widespread 80-160 m thick low-velocity zone at and above the main low-angle fault. This observation suggests the water-rich décollement leaks water into the overlying sections. Also evident is a low-velocity section associated with turbidite sands. These results are confirmed with sparse logging data and well samples. Deep-water short offset 3-D experiments provide a potentially effective approach for velocity estimation, replacing the operational complexity of long-offsets with simpler short-offset techniques. In areas of structural complications and abundant diffracted energy, it is a surprisingly accurate method, utilizing the high fidelity 3-D wavefield and the information carried in zero-offset diffraction ellipsoids. The velocity used to properly collapse a diffraction ellipsoid is explicitly the velocity of propagation in the media since the travel path is known exactly. Thus, the derived velocities should closely represent rock velocities, unlike the 2-D case where the propagation geometry is not known.     

Analysis of photographic images of the structure of the surface of the sea near a speck of light

Values of root mean square slope ₀ and its variations -₀ are estimated using the brightness field of an image of the surface of the sea near a speck of light. When ₀ and -₀ are defined it is highly important to take into account direct as well as dissipated solar radiation.The space-time analysis of the structure of the image brightness field is performed. This gives an opportunity to estimate dispersion relationship and the running effect of a brightness contrast packet. Comparison of the parameters obtained with the theoretical dispersion ratio of internal waves (IW) allows one to make a conclusion that IW surface manifestations are recorded in a frame.UDK 551.463.5     

Variation of water system distribution in the Sanriku Coastal Area

We analyzed hydrographic data obtained monthly by the Iwate Prefectural Fisheries Laboratory during 1977–1981. Our attention was focussed on the classification of waters based on the Temperature-Salinity (T-S) scatter diagram analyses, and on the extraction of the mean state of their distribution for each season. The water system was defined as all waters occupying some specific region on the T-S plane, and the mean state for each season was expressed by the distribution of the mode water systems (i.e., the most commonly occuring water system).Because of the coexistence of the Tsugaru Warm Current, the Oyashio and the Kuroshio, and their large seasonal variability, the sea waters had a wide variety of T-S combinations. The detailed T-S scatter diagram analyses allowed us to classify the waters into six water systems. A time-longitude diagram of water systems and the distribution of mode water systems are presented. The latter showed clear seasonal variations of the Tsugaru Warm Current and the Oyashio.Though the water system analysis was successfully able to present the distribution of the various waters in the Sanriku Coastal Area and to clearly extract the mean state of sea conditions, it was found that the classification of water systems on the T-S plane was not complete in all cases for this area.     

Global distribution and atmospheric transport of chlorinated hydrocarbons: HCH (BHC) isomers and DDT compounds in the Western Pacific,Eastern Indian and Antarctic Oceans

Concentrations of chlorinated hydrocarbons such as HCH isomers and DDT compounds were determined in air and surface water samples taken from the Western Pacific, Eastern Indian and Antarctic Oceans. The most interesting finding was their presence in measurable concentrations in the Antarctic Ocean. Chlorinated hydrocarbon pesticides are widely distributed in the open ocean environment over both the northern and southern hemispheres, and some characteristic distribution patterns of pesticide species in different oceanic regions were observed both in air and water samples. HCH residues found in the northern hemisphere were much higher in concentration than those in the southern hemisphere. On the other hand, higher concentrations of DDT residues were found in the tropical regions, but their levels were not so different between both the northern and southern hemispheres. HCH isomers found in the northern hemisphere had the following order of concentrations:-HCH> HCH>-HCH, while in the southern hemisphere-HCH was apparently dominant. DDT compound compositions were rather uniform in all the oceans surveyed, and more than 50% wasp,p-DDT. These facts can be explained by the world wide situation regarding pesticide use and the physicochemical properties of the pesticides such as their vapor pressures and water solubilities. In addition, the meridional circulation of the atmosphere, particularly the mass flows of the Hadley and Ferrel cells in the troposphere, also contributes to the atmospheric transport and global distribution of these pesticides.     

Calcium-alkalinity relationship in the North Pacific

The dissolution of calcium carbonate in deep ocean water causes variation in calcium concentration (Ca) and alkalinity (TA) in the ratio of one to two. The decomposition of organic matter generates nitric acid, phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. A proton flux which is derived from this process also changes alkalinity. Using the variation in nitrate concentration (NO₃) as an index of the proton flux, the relationship betweenCa,TA andNO₃ is expressed asCa=0.5TA+0.63NO₃ The values of Ca obtained from direct measurements in the North Pacific are in good agreement with the values estimated from this equation.     

Chlorinated hydrocarbons in the North Pacific and Indian Oceans

PCBs, DDT compounds and HCH isomers were detected in the air and surface waters of the North Pacific and Indian Oceans, including the Bering Sea, East China Sea, South China Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea. The general concentrations of each chlorinated hydrocarbon were as follows: water PCBs 0.1 to 1.0, DDT 0.01 to 1.0, HCH 1.0 to 10 ngl ^–1; air DDT 0.01 to 1.0, HCH 0.1 to 10 ng m^–3. PCB concentrations in surface waters were slightly lower than those of the North Atlantic and North Sea previously reported, while DDT concentrations in the air and water were higher. Remarkably high concentrations of DDT and HCH were found in the air off the western coast of India. Also in the Pacific site off Central America, a fairly high concentration of DDT was observed in an air sample. These data suggest that large amounts of DDT and HCH are being used in the tropical zone, especially in southern Asia. Furthermore, high concentrations were observed both in the air and water of the Northwest Pacific between 30°N and 40°N latitude. There is a possibility that both pesticides are not only still being used in lower latitude countries but also in the mid-latitude ones of the Asian continent excluding Japan. In addition to this atmospheric circulation may also contribute to the concentration of these pesticides in the mid-latitudinal zone.