一种新的非线性波浪周期概率分布

在最大熵原则的基础上,通过解一条件变分问题,导出一种新的适用于描述非线性波浪周期T统计分布的概率密度函数.这种概率分布有如下的优越性:(1)该分布的参数是由无因次周期的m(m为正数)阶分布矩得出,从而周期的信息熵达到最大,故适用于描述波浪周期的非线性;(2)该分布有4个参数,从而更能符合最大熵原则;(3)该分布形式简单...     

Application of Maximum Entropy Distribution to the Statistical Properties of Wave Groups

The new distributions of the statistics of wave groups based on the maximum entropy principle are presented.The maximum entropy distributions appear to be superior to conventional distributions when applied to a limited amount of information.Its applications to the wave group properties show the effectiveness of the maximum entropy distribution.FFT filtering method is employed to obtain the wave envelope fast and efficiently.Comparisons of both the maximum entropy distribution and the distribution of Longuet-Higgins(1984) with the laboratory wind-wave data show that the former gives a better fit     

Surface Elevation Distribution of Sea Waves Based on the Maximum Entropy Principle

A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability. Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions. In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.     

Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field

The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory.     

The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution

In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible.     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

Ⅲ变浅作用下列率谱和频率谱的实验研究

为研究变浅作用下的非线性海浪，本文利用并矢相关谱估计方法，设计并进行了多种强度下，由深水传入近岸浪变浅作用下，列率谱和频率谱随水深和坡度变化的实验比较研究。     

未破碎变浅随机海浪的非线性模式

利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩(或波面偏度)相对于Hs/d的空间演化,利用本文的经验关系,在二阶近似下,给出了以Hs/d为参量的非线性波面表示模式,并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量.文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系.     

A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements

A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States.     

非线性流函数在实验风浪场计算中的应用

风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。     

物理海洋学家──孙孚教授

孙孚，男，出生于1941年7月21日，山东青岛人，汉族。1961年于山东师范大学物理系毕业，1985年于山东海洋学院物理海洋专业获我国授予的第一个海洋学理学博士学位。此后曾以高级学者身份赴加拿大英属哥伦比亚大学访问。现任青岛海洋大学海洋环境学院院长兼国家教委物理海洋部门开放研究实验室主任，教授，博士生导师，山东省专业技术拔尖人才，国家有突出贡献的中、青年专家，享受国务院颁发的政府特殊津贴。主要从事海浪理论与应用的教学和研究工作，近10余年在《中国科学人《科学通报人《海洋与湖沼人《海洋学报人忡国海洋湖沼学报》（英…     

A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

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分析海浪方向谱的扩展本征矢方法Ⅰ.方法的导出

基于交叉谱矩阵可以按本征值划分为信号和含有噪音部分的思想，提出了一种自直接测量数据估计海浪方向谱的方法。该方法称为扩展本征矢方法（EEV），可应用于单点测量系统、仪器阵列以及由二者构成的复合阵列。现有的某些估计方法（如最大似然方法及其扩展形式等）仅是此方法的某种特例。     

Numerical simulation of non-gaussian process of wind waves

In this paper further mathematical analysis on "correlation transfer technique" by Polge el al. is carried out, the tenable conditions and the extent of suitability for the said method are proved as well. In consideration of the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on spectral shape, a "quasi-correlation transfer techique" is developed by the modification of the simulated target spectrum. Meanwhile, the numerical simulation of the non-Gaussian process of wind waves is carried out in view of the two conditions of the surface elevation probability distribution and the spectrum. By using its simulated results, the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on two parameters in the distribution of wave heights (which had been fitted by using the Weibull distribution) is analysed. The "quasi- correlation tranfer technique" is verified and compared with the selection wave data observed in the Jiaozhou Bay in the period of 1980 to 1981. Results make clear (hat, as far as the statistical d     

Studies on physical processes at the sea surface

I feel greatly honoured to be awarded the Oceanographical Society of Japan Prize for 1989, and to be given this opportunity to look back at my past activities in research and education, and to present them as an example for younger members of our Society. Taking this opportunity, I acknowledge with sincere thanks many persons who guided me or who have collaborated with me since I was a young student up to the present.My past academic history may be divided into three periods. In the first period (1955–71) at Kyoto University which included and eighteen month visit to the University of Chicago, I studied the production of air bubbles and droplets at the sea surface by wind-wave breaking, and the supply and distribution of the sea-salt particles from the sea to the atmosphere. The first nondimensional formulation of the form of single air bubbles floating at liquid surfaces was also presented. In the second period (1971–1981) I pursued, at the new Physical Oceanography Laboratory of Tohoku University, the concept of wind waves which are coupled with the wind. I proposed the 3/2-power law of wind waves and the high frequency part of the wind-wave spectral form which is proportional to the friction velocity of air and to the –4th power of frequency. Detailed investigations of wind-wave phenomena were also performed in wind-wave tunnels by introducing quantitative flow visualization techniques and together with my students, we elucidated ordered motions in the flows below and above wind waves. The Tohoku Wave Model was also developed in which the similarity laws of wind waves, which are strongly coupled with the air flow, were explicitly used. In the third period (1982-present), my area of interest has become broader and, togerther with my students and my overseas collaboratos, we are studying the connection of local physical processes at the air-sea boundary with studies of larger scale ocean-atmosphere interactions. One aspect of this has led to the organization of the Ocean Mixed Layer Experiment (OMLET, 1987–91), as part of the Japanese national programmes of the World Climate Research Programme. Another interest is the ongoing fundamental study of the use of satellite data for the estimation of air-sea fluxes over a broad area. Pursuit of the roots of the similarity laws of the windsea remains one of my present tasks.     

基于LPB1-2型声学测波仪资料的近岸浪特征分析

为研究近岸浪的形态特征,利用LPB1-2型声学测波仪在某海域所测得的海浪数据对近岸浪特征要素进行统计分析,利用最大"熵"原理推导出了波高的最大"熵"分布,研究了状态参量对波高分布和波高"熵"的影响。研究表明,该海域的波主要以波高0.3~0.7 m,周期2.5~5.5 s的波为主,表示离散程度的特征值平均差为0.267,日极差值主要在0.1~0.4 m区间内,最大值为1.0 m,分布较为集中,波高分布近似为正态分布。     

Relationship Between Mean Length and Mean Period of Wind Waves

1.IntroductionGreat progress has been madeinthe statistics of sea waves based onthe envelopetheory of Gaus-sian processes.Longuet-Higgins(1975,1983)first obtainedthe joint probability distributionfunction(PDF)of wave heights and periods.His work was exten…     

Climate Variations of Certain Wave Parameters at the Inlet of Novorossiysk Bay

The main purpose of the study is an analysis of the wave climate of Novorossiysk Bay (Black Sea) for 1979–2019. The analysis is based on mathematical modeling results obtained with the modern DHI MIKE 21 SW spectral wave model. The wave model was verified using numerous instrumental data of the wind-wave parameters in the Black Sea and Sea of Azov. As follows from the research, the average power of storm waves in Novorossiysk Bay area is about 8 kW/m. The maximum power ranges from 50 to 100 kW/m but can reach 200 kW/m or more. The total duration of storm waves for one year is 40–60 days. The maximum duration of one storm can be up to three days but does not exceed two days on average. The mean storm duration is usually 10–11 h. The largest number of storms (above 130) was recorded in 2004; on average, there are about 100 storms annually. In recent decades, in the area of Novorossiysk Bay, the maximum wind-wave heights and the total number of storms has increased with statistical control. It is also highly probable that the average annual power of combined waves and maximum storm duration have increased; i.e., the time of continuous wave impact has increased.

     

Simulation of Random Waves and Associated Laminar Bottom Shear Stresses

This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.     

Features of Wind Wave–Induced Turbulence in Water According to Measurements in a Wind-Wave Tank

Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - Three velocity components ui (i = x, y, z) have been measured in a wind-wave tank at three levels in water in the presence of wind waves. The degree of...