台湾岛以东涡旋及东海黑潮的变化特征

台湾岛以东海域是黑潮变异最为强烈的区域之一,副热带逆流(STCC)区产生的大量涡旋西传至此,对台湾以东的黑潮流径和流量产生较大影响。但是受观测资料限制,目前对这些涡旋的垂向结构尚不清楚。利用ARGO剖面浮标资料并结合卫星高度计资料,对台湾岛以东的涡旋垂向结构及其运动特征进行了详细的分析。通过分析表明,这些涡旋垂向尺度可以深达2 000 m,水平尺度约200 km,其表层切向速度可以达60 cm/s,与黑潮流速相当,而在1 000 m层上的平均切向流速还可达8 cm/s左右。根据高度计资料分析,这些涡旋是源自STCC区的Rossby波西传结果,其Rossby变形半径为43 km,其相速度约4.2 cm/s。另外,根据浮标观测表明,1 000 m层上东海黑潮按照流速可明显分成3个区段。     

Laboratory measurements of large-scale near-bed turbulent flow structures under spilling regular waves

The instantaneous turbulent velocity field created by the breaking of spilling regular waves on a plane slope was measured in a plane running parallel to the slope using particle image velocimetry. The measurement plane was located at a height of about 1 mm above the bed. The measurement area encompassed the region where the large eddies generated at incipient wave breaking impinged on the bottom inside the surf zone. A total of 30 trials were conducted under identical experimental conditions. In each trial, six consecutive wave cycles were recorded. The measured velocity fields were separated into a mean flow and a turbulence component by ensemble averaging. The instantaneous turbulent velocity fields were analyzed to determine the occurrence frequency, location, geometry and evolution of the large eddies, and their contributions to instantaneous shear stresses, turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence energy fluxes. The motion of single glass spheres along the bed was also investigated. The two-phase flow measurements showed that the velocity and displacement of large solid particles on a smooth bed were significantly affected by the magnitude and direction of turbulence velocities. Overall, this study has examined the kinematic and dynamic properties of large eddies impinging on the bed and the interaction of these large-scale turbulent flow structures with the mean flow. The study has also highlighted the important role of large eddies in sediment transport.     

Distribution of eddy scales for wave current combined flow

This paper illustrates the modulation of the eddy scale distribution due to superimposition of surface wave on only current flow. Time series data of three-dimensional velocity components were measured in a laboratory flume by a three-dimensional (3D) 16-MHz micro-acoustic Doppler velocimeter (Micro-ADV). The velocity time series of only current case and waves following the current were analysed to obtain the phase-averaged mean velocities, turbulent intensities, and Reynolds stress. The probability density function of phase-averaged stream-wise and vertical velocity fluctuations showed bimodal oscillations towards the free surface for higher frequency surface waves. It was revealed that surface waves along the current effectively decrease the intermittency of turbulence of the only current flow. Surface wave changed the intermittent structure of only current flow by modulation of the energy cascade mechanism of the only current flow by introduction of wave induced length scales. Also the scale of the finer dissipative eddies were prominently enhanced by the increase in surface wave frequency. Wavelet analysis of time series of velocity signals provided information on the eddy scale and their frequency of occurrence. It was found that the large eddies are carried by the crest regions of the progressive wave while the small scale eddies are carried by the trough regions.     

Numerical modelling of wave-induced currents in the presence of coastal structures

The hydrodynamic aspects of the general methodology of calculation of nearshore processes by means of numerical models are described. The paper focuses on the method implemented for calculating combined wave refraction-diffraction and reflection due to coastal structures and the associated radiation stresses.Results of numerical modelling are compared with experimental data obtained by Gourlay in the case of a shore-connected breakwater with periodic waves.A good agreement is found between both methods of investigation as concerns the spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level (wave-induced set-up). A good similarity of the wave-induced eddies in the lee of the structure is observed. A less satisfactory agreement is obtained between the velocity distributions in several profiles normal to the shore, although the overall order of magnitude is the same.A critical review of several wave-breaking criteria and sensitivity tests of the numerical model lead to advocate the use of the CERC criterion, particularly with steep beach slopes.     

动波浪壁圆柱绕流三维数值模拟

利用计算流体力学软件Fluent开展了三维动波浪壁圆柱绕流的数值模拟,建立了三维运动波浪壁圆柱模型,通过C语言自编程序实现波浪壁面的运动控制,并保证壁面变形时网格的高质量。在来流速度u=0.125 m/s、雷诺数Re=12 500的情况下,开展了动波浪壁波动速度w=0、0.062 5、0.125、0.187 5 m/s四个工况的计算分析,并比较了不同波动速度对流场结构、升力、阻力特性的影响。结果表明:动波浪壁圆柱能有效抑制流动的分离,消除交替脱落的尾涡,从而消除周期振荡的升力;在消除卡门涡街的同时,圆柱后驻点处的涡量值随波动速度增加而增加,其原因在于波形移动加大了壁面流体的速度,从而减小了圆柱前后的压力差,减小了阻力;随着波动速度的增大,平均阻力系数呈明显下降趋势,当波动速度为来流速度的1.5倍时,平均阻力系数相对于光滑圆柱下降了53.76%。     

Rhines效应对高度计观测的海洋中尺度涡空间分布特征的影响

Rhines效应是指Rossby波和大湍流（中尺度涡）相互作用,将涡动能量以波的形式传播出去,从而使中尺度涡发生形变,最终消亡的一种动力学机制。本文通过比较海洋里涡特征速度和Rossby长波波速的方法,研究了一种广义的Rhines效应对高度计观测的海洋中尺度涡空间分布特征的影响。结果显示,广义Rhines效应比只考虑行星涡度梯度的传统形式对中尺度涡的分布具有更显著的影响。大部分中尺度涡分布在涡特征速度（U_e）大于由广义Beta值计算的Rossby长波波速（U_cg）的区域。这些涡可以由动能反向串级过程获取能量,成长为振幅和空间尺度较大的涡。热带海域以外的“涡旋沙漠”区域,中尺度涡的数量稀少,强度很弱,大都分布于U_ecg的海域。广义Rhines效应可能是这些海域中尺度涡难以成长的动力学机制。     

Vorticity and intermittency within the pre-breaking region of spilling breakers

This paper presents measurements and analysis of fluid velocity within the context of spilling waves. The data have been collected using 2-D Laser Doppler Velocimetry in pre-breaking monochromatic waves generated in a wave tank. The analysis is performed using orthogonal wavelets and, in addition to the classical criterion adopted in applying Taylor's hypothesis, a new algorithm is proposed for the eduction of eddies at different length scales. The contribution of different scale vortices is computed, and phase is resolved. Microvortices (smaller than the breaker height but larger than the dissipative vortices) and mid-size vortices (with length ranging from the breaker height to the wave length) carry out most turbulence energy under wave crest. The phase average vorticity and strain rate is computed at different wave lengths, with the analysis of intermittence. The intermittency factor shows spikes in the wave crest, especially for turbulence in small vortices.     

Mesoscale Eddies Observed by TOLEX-ADCP and TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter in the Kuroshio Recirculation Region South of Japan

Mesoscale eddies in the Kuroshio recirculation region south of Japan have been investigated by using surface current data measured by an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) installed on a regular ferry shuttling between Tokyo and Chichijima, Bonin Islands, and sea surface height anomaly derived from the TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter. Many cyclonic and anticyclonic eddies were observed in the region. Spatial and temporal scales of the eddies were determined by lag-correlation analyses in space and time. The eddies are circular in shape with a diameter of 500 km and a temporal scale of 80 days. Typical maximum surface velocity and sea surface height anomaly associated with the eddies are 15–20 cm s^–1 and 15 cm, respectively. The frequency of occurrence, temporal and spatial scales, and intensity are all nearly the same for the cyclonic and anticyclonic eddies, which are considered to be successive wave-like disturbances rather than solitary eddies. Phase speed of westward propagation of the eddies is estimated as 6.8 cm s^–1, which is faster than a theoretical estimate based on the baroclinic first-mode Rossby wave with or without a mean current. The spatial distribution of sea surface height variations suggests that these eddies may be generated in the Kuroshio Extension region and propagate westward in the Kuroshio recirculation region, though further studies are needed to clarify the generation processes.     

Intensification of nonlinear wind waves on clean water and in the presence of an oil film

The intensification of gentle plane waves at the initial stage of their generation by a steady wind flow in a laboratory setup is investigated. It is found that the wave form is changed by eddies that are formed in the viscous layer of a steady air flow on the leeward slope: the water surface rises under the action of eddies to form a complexly shaped slope. Calculated and measured data for gentle nonlinear waves on clean water are in good compliance with each other. It is shown that, in the presence of an oil film, the region of eddy separation encompasses the wave trough as well, because oil flows down and the film is thickened in passing from the slope to the trough. The water-surface rise by eddies in the trough restricts an increase in the amplitude and steepness of the wave.     

Large eddy simulation of breaking waves

A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth.     

上混合中剪切湍流和朗缪尔环流动力特征差异

Large eddy simulation(LES) is used to investigate contrasting dynamic characteristics of shear turbulence(ST)and Langmuir circulation(LC) in the surface mixed layer(SML). ST is usually induced by wind forcing in SML. LC can be driven by wave-current interaction that includes the roles of wind, wave and vortex forcing. The LES results show that LC suppresses the horizontal velocity and greatly modifies the downwind velocity profile, but increases the vertical velocity. The strong downwelling jets of LC accelerate and increase the downward transport of energy as compared to ST. The vertical eddy viscosity Km of LC is much larger than that of ST. Strong mixing induced by LC has two locations. They are located in the 2ds–3ds(Stokes depth scale) and the lower layer of the SML,respectively. Its value and position change periodically with time. In contrast, maximum Km induced by ST is located in the middle depth of the SML. The turbulent kinetic energy(TKE) generated by LC is larger than that by ST. The differences in vertical distributions of TKE and Km are evident. Therefore, the parameterization of LC cannot be solely based on TKE. For deep SML, the convection of large-scale eddies in LC plays a main role in downward transport of energy and LC can induce stronger velocity shear(S2) near the SML base. In addition, the large-scale eddies and S2 induced by LC is changing all the time, which needs to be fully considered in the parameterization of LC.     

台湾以东中尺度涡对黑潮入侵东海路径的影响

利用AVISO数据集的卫星高度计资料,分析了中国台湾以东中尺度涡的时空特征,通过具体的中尺度涡实例探讨了其对台湾以东黑潮路径的影响。研究表明气旋式中尺度涡在春夏季节的数目要少于反气旋式中尺度涡,在秋冬季节气旋式涡旋个数则多于反气旋涡;并且台东以东区域涡旋传播存在多种路径,涡旋的存在对台湾东北部黑潮入侵东海的路径具有重大影响,特别是2004年夏季台湾以东区域存在多个涡旋,相应的吕宋海峡黑潮主轴向东偏移明显,台湾东北黑潮入侵东海的路径发生了显著变化。     

A note on the horizontal momentum exchange in combined waves and current

The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably.     

孟加拉湾中尺度涡的总体特征与季节变化

采用AVISO提供的中尺度涡最新数据集,分析了孟加拉湾1993—2016年中尺度涡的总体特征和季节变化。结果表明:研究期间在孟加拉湾共有822个气旋涡,731个反气旋涡,主要分布在湾北部(15°N以北海域)和安达曼海。涡旋生命周期以28～59 d为主,平均振幅为7. 5 cm,平均半径为119. 6 km。在纬度变化上,涡旋振幅随纬度的增加有两个峰值,分别位于6°～9°N和15°～20°N之间,而涡旋半径随纬度增加而减少。涡旋的振幅、半径在随生命周期演变过程中生长过程较慢,消散过程较快。气旋涡和反气旋涡主要是向西移动,且均以向赤道方向偏移为主。在季节变化上,孟加拉湾较长生命周期(60 d以上)的中尺度涡具有明显的季节变化,春季生成的涡旋数量最多,冬季次之,夏季最少。通过合成分析得出风应力旋度是孟加拉湾中尺度涡季节变化的主要原因,而沿岸Kelvin波激发的西传Rossby波对涡旋的产生也有一定影响。涡动能分析表明,涡动能的高值区主要位于海盆的西边界和斯里兰卡东部海域,同时,在冬季、春季海盆的西边界和夏季、秋季海盆的北部涡旋活动较多的区域对应着较大的涡动能。     

北极薄冰-煎饼冰区域中不同重力波驱动形成海流的敏感性分析

A coupled ocean-ice-wave model is used to study ice-edge jet and eddy genesis during surface gravity wave dissipation in a frazil-pancake ice zone. With observational data from the Beaufort Sea, possible wave dissipation processes are evaluated using sensitivity experiments. As wave energy dissipated, energy was transferred into ice floe through radiation stress. Later, energy was in turn transferred into current through ocean-ice interfacial stress. Since most of the wave energy is dissipated at the ice edge, ice-edge jets, which contained strong horizontal shear, appeared both in the ice zone and the ocean. Meanwhile, the wave propagation direction determines the velocity partition in the along-ice-edge and cross-ice-edge directions, which in turn determines the strength of the along-ice-edge jet and cross-ice-edge velocity. The momentum applied in the along-ice-edge(cross-ice-edge)direction increased(decreased) with larger incident angle, which is favorable condition for producing stronger mesoscale eddies, vice versa. The dissipation rate increases(decreases) with larger(smaller) wavenumber, which enhances(reduces) the jet strength and the strength of the mesoscale eddy. The strong along-ice-edge jet may extend to a deep layer(> 200 m). If the water depth is too shallow(e.g., 80 m), the jet may be largely dampened by bottom drag, and no visible mesoscale eddies are found. The results suggest that the bathymetry and incident wavenumber(magnitude and propagation direction) are important for wave-driven current and mesoscale eddy genesis.     

南海北部的春季流场季节内变异个例分析

在南海北部,与中尺度涡相关的季节内变异特征十分显著,通过比较不同时期流场的季节内变异特征,有助于揭示不同动力不稳定中尺度涡对季节内活动的影响。本文以南海北部2009年春季和2020年春季为例,分析了两个时期中尺度涡的动力不稳定性,从而探究季节内变异特征。基于潜标实测流速数据,本文进行了动能谱分析,结果显示这两个时期的流场季节内变异具有相似特征,显著周期分别为10～60 d和30～90 d。季节内信号主要出现在200 m以上的上表层水域,其中30～90 d的季节内流是对应观测期间的主要季节内成分。滞后回归分析和动力不稳定性的计算表明,2009年春季的季节内变异受移动快但强度弱的表层中尺度涡影响,动力不稳定性由斜压不稳定和正压不稳定共同调制;而2020年春季的季节内变异是受强斜压性的中尺度涡影响,通过流速垂向切变增强,从而较快地触发流场季节内变异的发生。本文研究结果有助于深入了解中尺度涡对南海北部季节内活动的影响机制,为海洋动力学和气候研究提供了重要的参考和理论基础。     

吕宋海峡两侧中尺度涡统计

利用1993-2000年间的T/P卫星高度计轨道资料的时间序列和MODAS同化产品中的卫星高度计最优插值资料对南海东北部海区中尺度涡旋进行动态追踪。按照给定的标准从2种资料中提取了涡旋信息并对其特征量进行统计分析。结果表明,南海东北部海区中尺度涡旋十分活跃,平均每年6个,其中暖涡4个,尺度一般为200~250 km,平均地转流速为44 cm/s;冷涡每年平均2个,尺度一般为150~200 km,平均地转流速为-37 cm/s。吕宋海峡两侧涡旋的比较分析表明,南海东北部海区仍属于西北太平洋副热带海区的涡旋带,冷、暖涡旋处于不断的形成—西移—消散过程中。南海东北部中尺度冷涡大多是南海内部产生的,而暖涡与吕宋海峡外侧暖涡有一定的联系又具有相对的独立性。分析认为西北太平洋的西行暖涡在到达吕宋海峡时,受到黑潮东翼东向下倾的等密度面的抑制和岛链的阻碍,涡旋停滞于吕宋海峡外侧并逐渐消弱,被阻挡于吕宋海峡东侧涡旋释放的能量,形成一支横穿吕宋海峡(同时横穿过黑潮)的高速急流,把能量传递给吕宋海峡西侧的涡旋,使其得到强化,这是吕宋海峡两侧涡旋联系的一种重要机制。     

Accuracy of asymptotic series for the kinematics of high solitary waves

The accuracy of several asymptotic series expansions for wave speed and particle velocity under the crest of a solitary wave (on a fluid at rest) up to maximum height is investigated. The very accurate numerical results of Williams (1985) are the measure for our comparisons. The results are based on a scaling of calculated properties of long periodic waves to the case of solitary waves.For wave speeds the classical Boussinesq–Rayleigh expression gives good agreement up to a relative wave height of, say, 0.3. An asymptotic fourth-order expression based on Fenton (1990) can be used up to a relative wave height of 0.7, whereas the corresponding fifth-order expression is slightly less accurate.The Eulerian particle velocity profile under the wave crest is examined using a cnoidal wave expression from Fenton (1990) in the limit of the solitary wave. For low waves a `consistent' (i.e. properly truncated) fifth-order expression and an `inconsistent' ditto both coincide with Williams' results. Beginning at medium high waves, the consistent expression surprisingly exhibits oscillations in the velocity profile, and the oscillations become stronger as the wave gets higher. The inconsistent expression, however, yields the same shape as Williams' profile, but is displaced parallel to this, resulting in slightly larger velocities. For high waves also the inconsistent expression begins to differ in shape from Williams' profile, and asymptotic theory fails. Only for low waves `lowest order theory' gives acceptable results. We show analytically that for the highest wave the particle velocity profile has a horizontal tangent at the water surface; this is corroborated by Williams' numerical results.We also study the particle velocity at the wave crest as a function of wave height. It is shown that the variation has a vertical tangent for the highest wave. Two fifth-order asymptotic series for this velocity, based on the wave speed through the Bernoulli equation, show very good agreement with Williams up to a relative wave height of about 0.6.It is finally shown that it is possible to produce very accurate rational-function approximations to Williams' results for the wave speed as well as for the particle velocity at the wave crest.     

台湾以东黑潮锋的中尺度过程研究

采用海洋再分析结果,研究了海洋涡旋和锋面波动对台湾以东黑潮锋的影响,结果表明,Rossby波第一斜压模态形成的冷涡(暖涡),减弱(增强)台湾以东黑潮温度锋强度,减小(加大)锋的宽度.在再分析结果中,捕获到1991年1-2月台湾以东的一次黑潮锋面波动.锋面波动的波槽(波脊)到达时,该温度锋强度减弱(增强),宽度和厚度减小...     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…