2010—2020及影响因素分析年青岛海滩剖面稳定性

海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海滩研究的重要内容。在全球砂质海滩普遍遭受侵蚀的背景下,分析部分稳定海滩的特征和原因可以为海滩维护和科学管理提供重要参考。本文基于近 11 年 （2010—2020 年） 青岛第一、第三和石老人海水浴场共 8 条典型剖面的实地监测高程数据,对海滩滩肩宽度和单宽体积进行计算对比,研究表明,除石老人海水浴场一个剖面变化较大外,其他剖面的滩肩宽度只变化了 0~14 m,是 11 年前的 0%~23.3%;单宽体积变化了 8.5~46.5 m3,是 11 年前的1.0%~9.4%;海滩剖面垂向扰动范围一般在 30~60 cm 范围内。海滩存在局部小尺度淤积或侵蚀,剖面形态总体较为稳定。海平面变化、台风和风暴潮等自然因素是海岸轻微侵蚀或调整的重要影响因素,但对海滩的优化管理 （包括定期监测海滩、适度展开养护、制定完善的管理政策和加强执行力度等人为因素） 可以应对这些海滩变化,并且已成为近年来该研究海滩保持稳定的关键因素。     

2010—2020年青岛海滩剖面稳定性及影响因素分析

海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海滩研究的重要内容。在全球砂质海滩普遍遭受侵蚀的背景下,分析部分稳定海滩的特征和原因可以为海滩维护和科学管理提供重要参考。本文基于近11年（2010—2020年）青岛第一、第三和石老人海水浴场共8条典型剖面的实地监测高程数据,对海滩滩肩宽度和单宽体积进行计算对比,研究表明,除石老人海水浴场一个剖面变化较大外,其他剖面的滩肩宽度只变化了0～14 m,是11年前的0%～23.3%;单宽体积变化了8.5～46.5 m3,是11年前的1.0%～9.4%;海滩剖面垂向扰动范围一般在30～60 cm范围内。海滩存在局部小尺度淤积或侵蚀,剖面形态总体较为稳定。海平面变化、台风和风暴潮等自然因素是海岸轻微侵蚀或调整的重要影响因素,但对海滩的优化管理（包括定期监测海滩、适度展开养护、制定完善的管理政策和加强执行力度等人为因素）可以应对这些海滩变化,并且已成为近年来该研究海滩保持稳定的关键因素。     

福建湄州岛西南部海滩重塑后剖面的季节变化特征

湄洲岛西南部海滩因1996年建造对台客运码头，引起了海滩剖面的变化，码头前沿淤积而报废。经过5年后，海滩剖面仍未能完全趋于平衡。为了了解码头建设对重塑后海滩的季节变化影响，在2001年3月、7月、10月和12月对码头所在海滩剖面地形进行季节重复测量，并对剖面变化进行比较分析。结果表明，重塑后海滩剖面的季节变化存在区段差异性，码头工程区海滩剖面仍表现为不断淤积，表明5年来工程建设造成海滩重塑后的变化过程还在继续；过渡区海滩剖面较工程区淤积程度减弱，部分剖面表现为侵蚀趋势，但总体逐渐向正常海滩剖面的季节变化方向发展；正常区海滩剖面的季节变化具有一定的规律性，表现为夏季上部侵蚀（后滨和高潮带）下部淤积（低潮带和浅水区），冬季上部淤积下部侵蚀，春、秋两季为中间过渡剖面形态。     

我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响研究

我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩有显著影响.本研究以泉州青山湾护岸、泉州崇武中心渔港、海口南海明珠人工岛等建设前后海滩变化为例,开展对海滩岸线形态及部分典型剖面形态的对比分析.结果表明,临海硬式护岸岸前海滩发生明显下蚀,护岸下游海滩岸线侵蚀后退,发育侵蚀热点,剖面伴有下蚀;渔港工程拦沙堤附近岸线局部淤涨,下游海滩岸线大范围侵蚀后退,出现侵蚀热点,侵蚀热点处剖面明显下蚀;人工岛后波影区内海滩淤积,形成沙岬或连岛沙坝突出体,突出体两侧岸线均发生不同程度侵蚀后退.通过分析典型工程案例,探讨了3类海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响方式、影响尺度和原因,对比分析不同类型海岸工程对相邻海滩的负面影响,可为海岸工程建设管理和海滩保护提供参考.     

二维沙质海滩剖面形态试验研究

海滩形态是近岸过程与海岸工程的一个重要研究内容,为探讨人工沙滩平衡剖面的形成及其形态特征和波浪作用下的滩面泥沙运动,从泥沙与波浪运动的相似规律出发,采用天然沙以正态整体模型进行二维沙质海滩的形态试验.试验证明人工沙质海滩在波浪作用一定时间之后,其剖面基本趋于一种平衡状态,沙源的向岸推移和向海下拉的情况也基本稳定.试验显示混合波的冲刷要大于单纯斜向波,单纯斜向波的冲刷大于单纯正向波,因此人工沙质海滩施工时应考虑到不同来波方向对剖面的影响.对比各个系列的整个人工沙质海滩剖面变化情况,可以看出整个沙滩剖面呈冲刷形态:从岸向海方向,在滩肩平台上形成一定的沙源堆积体;在滩肩缘到斜坡中部侵蚀最大,在斜坡下部侵蚀较小且向海呈逐渐减小趋势.     

海滩养护后剖面变化过程研究——以北戴河西海滩和中海滩为例

海滩养护目前已成为防治海岸侵蚀的主要措施.养滩工程后海滩剖面发生较大的变化,对剖面的变化过程进行研究,可以理解海滩地貌和动力之间的关系,同时也可以对养滩工程进行评价.通过对北戴河西海滩和中海滩两处养护海滩剖面的养护前、养护初、3个月、6个月、9个月和1年后等时间节点进行剖面形态测量,对海滩剖面的变化进行研究.结果发现填沙区内海滩在养滩工程初,滩肩按照设计增宽约30 n,即原岸线平均向海推进约30 m;养滩3个月后填沙岸段侵蚀较大,两个海滩滩肩宽度共缩小约7～14m;6个月后滩肩宽度相比3个月时再减小4 m,大部分剖面蚀退量开始减小;9个月后和1年后的侵蚀量相对之前更少,有些剖面甚至开始淤积.由于填沙区内侵蚀的物质向两侧运移,使得填沙区外海滩剖面则基本上一直处于淤积状态.1年后滩肩宽度相比养护前宽度增宽约为12～16 m.西海滩和中海滩在1年后填沙保存分别为88.7％和75％,养滩效果良好.     

胶东半岛南部海滩地形剖面监测分析

对2009~2011年在胶东半岛南部海岸带测量的10条海滩剖面夏、冬季共6次地形监测数据及海滩表层沉积物粒度进行了对比分析,结果表明:海阳核电站东北部海滩略有侵蚀,地形变化较小;仰口、红岛和黄岛海滩侵淤变化较大,反映受海洋动力,尤其是波浪作用的影响;胶东半岛西南部海域砂质海岸冬季与夏季相比轻度淤积。监测结果可以为本地区海岸带工程建设提供参考。     

砾石海滩剖面设计及其稳定性模型试验研究

海滩剖面设计参数确定和稳定性评价是设计阶段确保海滩养护工程质量的重要指标。针对大连凌水湾砾石海滩养护工程,综合采用Dean平衡剖面原则和剖面类比法进行剖面设计,确定了填砂中值粒径、施工坡度、滩肩前沿高程和滩肩宽度等设计参数;结合物理模型试验进行了剖面形态稳定性分析,研究了海滩在不同波浪和水位作用下的剖面形态演化过程,试验结果表明不同工况条件下,平均低水位以上的滩面均为净淤积,水下部分侵蚀明显,滩面上部泥沙不断堆积,砾石海滩最终形成稳定剖面。研究结果可为类似砾石海滩养护工程设计提供参考。     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。     

海南岛东北部海滩侵蚀与恢复对连续台风的复杂响应

在连续台风作用下海滩的侵蚀与恢复是一个复杂的过程。基于海南岛东北部木兰-抱虎湾海滩的现场调查,对比分析台风"威马逊"和"海鸥"登陆前后海滩剖面和后滨沉积物的动态响应。结果表明,超强台风"威马逊"引起海滩的严重侵蚀和强烈的泥沙输移,在木兰湾海滩主要表现出由北向南沿岸海滩的差异性变化,在抱虎湾各海滩变化较为相近;后继登陆台风"海鸥"引起海滩显著堆积,对海滩主要起恢复作用,木兰湾海滩恢复效果明显,海滩后滨沉积物趋于恢复至台风前的状态,由于抱虎湾水下珊瑚礁及近岸岩礁地貌减缓了台风对该处海滩的侵蚀和堆积作用,抱虎湾海滩表现出与台风前较大差异性。两处海湾海滩的不同走向及台风的风向变化也是造成海滩不同响应的重要原因。研究将有助于更好地理解海滩对连续台风作用的复杂响应。     

弱流场调制下的海面微波散射模拟研究

根据海面微波散射的多尺度模型以及波流相互作用理论,对一维弱流场调制下的海面微波散射截面进行了数值模拟。结果表明,利用数值方法直接求解波作用量方程获得的海浪调制谱并结合多尺度模型可以较好地模拟弱流场引起的雷达散射截面的变化。内波等海洋现象调制了海浪谱,使得雷达散射截面反映出这些海洋特征,整个调制过程的模拟对于分析这些海洋现象并更好地利用其雷达数据具有重要意义。     

0709号台风影响下粤东后江湾海滩地形动力过程研究

基于0709号台风"圣帕"影响下粤东后江湾的现场实测海滩前滨地形资料和水动力、风等资料,采用典型相关分析方法识别了台风影响下海滩前滨地形不同的变化过程,揭示了这些不同变化过程的主要控制因子,并尝试给出了物理解释。研究结果表明:(1)台风影响下海滩前滨地形的主要变化过程是水上滩肩被破坏—水下岸坡略有堆积—水下沙坝泥沙向海搬运,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是风速东向量、最大波高和碎波尺度参数;(2)海滩前滨地形的次要变化过程是海滩前滨泥沙向海搬运而形成水下沙坝,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是最大波周期和海滩地下水位;(3)海滩前滨地形也表现出前滨上部地带堆积、下部侵蚀的变化过程,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是沿岸流、海滩地下水位和最大波高。这些研究结果进一步揭示了台风影响下海滩前滨地形动力过程是由多个不同的地形-动力过程耦合作用而组成。     

Defining the foreshore: coastal geomorphology and British laws

Definitions of the ‘foreshore’ are described as presented in various coastal geomorphological and related textbooks. To many geomorphologists, the term foreshore is considered synonymous with the intertidal zone. These definitions are compared with the legal definitions of the foreshore as exist in Britain under the three different property law regimes: English, Scottish and Udal law. The legal definitions and many of the geomorphological definitions are based on tidal data. The differences between the observed tides at a tide gauge and on a beach at a distance from the gauge are considered. It is concluded that the term foreshore has a very specific legal meaning in each property law regime, therefore the authors propose that the term ‘foreshore’ should be used to relate to the legally defined area of the coast and, unless specifically referring to the foreshore, scientists should use the term intertidal.     

三门峡水库断面系统设计与实现

三门峡水库断面系统由Visual Basic 6.0和Excel软件开发而成,通过断面控制文件调用断面数据文件,具有单个或批量生成断面图、编辑断面图、输出断面图数据的功能。较之前生成的断面图更加规范、统一,断面图生成操作界面简单、方便、快捷,节省了工作时间和劳动力,具有较强的实用价值。     

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.     

海洋锋区的一种声速计算模式及其在声传播影响研究中的应用

利用穿过海洋锋区断面的实测CTD数据,确定了锋面的宽度、所在的位置以及陡度等特征参数,建立了海洋锋区声速计算理论模式。结果表明,此模式可以用来描述选定断面的锋面特性。将理论计算结果与实测数据进行比较,二者符合较好。进而利用二维PE模型,研究了通过海洋锋面的声传播特性。结果表明,在声源深度为50m和发射频率为150 Hz的情形下,对不同接收深度,有锋面与无锋面时传播损失的差别最大约为20 dB左右。     

Shear sense inversion in the Hilti mantle section (Oman ophiolite) and active mantle uprise

Structural analyses in the well-exposed Hilti mantle section in the Oman ophiolite suggest a model of forceful horizontal flow in the uppermost mantle at the edge of a diapir below a oceanic spreading center. Detailed structural mapping, focussed on high-T deformation (i.e., asthenospheric flow), revealed a gently undulated flat structure with a uniform east-west flow direction. When it is related to the N–S to NNW–SSE trending, vertical sheeted dike complex located to the east, this mantle flow is parallel to the spreading direction. Because the Moho is so flat lying, a large dunite occurrence at the south-western region is possibly ascribed to the Moho Transition Zone. Kinematic analysis shows that the shear direction generally changes from top-to-the west in the upper level, to top-to-the east in the lower level with respect to the Moho. This shear sense inversion is explained by a model of forceful flow due to an active mantle uprise and it is not compatible with a passive mantle uprise. In the plan section, the boundary of the shear sense inversion is subparallel to the flow direction and subperpendicular to the spreading axis. In cross section, the boundary appears to occur at various depths in the range of 200 m to 500 m. It shows that the active mantle uprise in the diapir center resulted in a channelled horizontal flow.     

Sediment resuspension events induced by the wake wash of deep-draft vessels

Hydrodynamics and sediment resuspension events, induced at the shoreline by a deep-draft vessel passing nearby, are described. Measurements (pressure, currents and turbidity) were obtained at 4 Hz, on a lower beach ~50 m from a channel where large car ferries operate in Wootton Creek, Isle of Wight. The study focuses on a representative 8-min 32-s-long record, during which two large vessels passed the channel section. At the shore, the passage of each vessel induced a long-period water-level drawdown, followed by a water-level oscillation (seiche) of similar period, and the short-period waves of the wake. Both drawdowns were the main constituents of the prevailing wave pattern. The second drawdown was the largest in amplitude, in response to a higher speed of the ferry, and the influence of the seiche which had been activated during the preceding event. Two successive peaks of turbidity were observed shortly after this drawdown. Analyses of current velocity and direction indicate that the sediments resuspended originated from the shallower upper beach. Anthropogenically induced erosion of the foreshore is predicted at Wootton Creek.     

Basement imaging with Side-Looking Seismics

The multistreamer Side-Looking Seismic system presented in this paper makes a sonograph of uncovered or buried crustal topography, thus revealing the structural fabric of the oceanic basement, even when this is covered with a sedimentary layer. Major elements of the system are an airgun as a sound source, five single-channel parallel streamers and two minicomputers for signal capture and processing.The system is used simultaneously for enhanced single-channel seismic profiling and for side-looking seismics. A vertical section with an improved signal-to-noise ratio and a suppression of side-echoes is produced on a digital seismic recorder. Primary side-looking seismic output in the form of 5 profiles with different angles of incidence is obtained within 10 seconds. This part of the processing can be done in real time.In sediment-covered areas the low frequencies used cause the slanted profiles (the side beams in the primary output) to be side-looking sonar images of buried topography. The projection process yielding final side-looking output corrects for slant range deformation caused by the water column and, if necessary, for deformation caused by refraction within the sedimentary column. The result approaches a conformal map of the structure of the traversed basement. Swath width is mainly determined by water depth and refraction effects in the sediment. In Madeira abyssal plain a swath width of 8000 m was attained in a water depth of 5000 m.Within the swath, oceanic basement structures are recognized in the form of elongate more or less parallel reflectors. They are interpreted as buried spreading topography. The lack of side-echoes within fracture zones combined with typical wall signatures can be used to trace fracture zones. These features are demonstrated for an area in Madeira abyssal plain.     

Morphodynamic Characteristics and Medium-Term Simulation of the North—South Passage Under the Impact of the Yangtze Estuary Deepwater Navigation Channel Project

The morphological evolution characteristics of the North-South Passage area since the construction of the Yangtze Estuary Deepwater Navigation Channel Project(DNCP) are analyzed on the basis of the measured data. A twodimensional morphodynamics numerical model of the Yangtze Estuary is established to verify the morphological evolution of the North-South Passage under the influence of the DNCP and to predict the future evolution in the next 40 years. Data analysis shows that the North Passage has experienced rapid adjustment stages and adaptive stages after the construction of the DNCP. Slow erosion occurred along the main channel, and slow siltation could be observed in the area between the groins. The South Passage showed a state of upper section erosion and down section deposition. At present, the whole South Passage is in a slight erosion state. According to the numerical model, the eroding and silting speed of the North Passage will slow down in the future. The present state that erosion occurs in the main channel and siltation occurs between the groins will continue. The South Passage will still maintain upper section erosion and down section deposition in the future. Due to the main channel erosion of the North Passage and siltation of the South Passage, the sediment division ratio of the North Passage will increase in the future but still be smaller than 50%. After morphological evolution of 40 years, the direction of residual sediment transport caused by M2 and M4 tidal components in the North Passage has not changed, but the transport rate will decrease. It is considered that the morphological evolution of the North-South Passage could reach a relatively stable state after 40 years.